Pearson Ariel #304

[French]

preventer, yes!
Keeps the boom from flying from one side to the other, during accidental Jibing.

Before I knew what mine did, i was told it was a Vang, mostly racing stuff. So I took it off. Sailing in light to medium wind no problem. But in big wind, handy to have! One less thing to worry as much about while dealing with strong unstable winds.

Many boats to not have one, so it is your call. I ran with mine off for a year, after I needed it I put back on and kept it. Came in handly, but I'm still a toddler sailor

[legalair]

Well, I finally removed all of the "astro-turf" from the deck. I guess my wife can't affectionately call her the avocado boat anymore. As you see from the pictures, the adhesive left a rather big mess. 3M adhesive remover doesn't even put a dent in it. Because the non-skid not so non-skid anymore, I was thinking of just sanding the deck down and reapplying a new non non skid surface. There a lots of threads regarding non-skid, by my novice searches didn't turn up any info regarding the proper methods to remove the old non skid and finish. What do you experienced refurbishers suggest?

I have seen a few threads on recoring, but I have no soft spots at all that I have found and don't feel it is necessary to gut the deck and start from scratch. There are a few repairs in places you see on the picture that probably require it, but nothing extensive. The hardware was bedded down very well, so I think the core is fine.

A few suggestions about non skid choices and finish removal procedures will help. I have a sanding block, a belt sander, an orbital sander, etc. Is this the way to go. Do i just take the finish down till the non skid is gone and stop there?

Also, my coamings are very dried out and when i tried to remove them to refinsh, they are hopelessly (maybe) stuck to the sides of the cockpit. It appears to be a silicon bedding or something keeping it stuck. I also noticed both boards have the beginning of a split where the cockpt stops. Can this be reinforced with some filler or are they a write off and need to be replaced altogether? I think I would break them in half if I applied the force to remove them.

I sailed the boat extensively over the last 9 months and have found the boat to be a sanity saver. Its time to pay it back with some lovin' care. Bret

my before picture is here:

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...achmentid=2214

[ebb]

Hello legal air,
338's coamings also split at aft end in relation to step cutout. Depending on what your refinish plan is, eg strip all the old finish off befor sanding, you might get close to the cracks with a magnifier and see how the splits clean up. If you can move them by hand you can do something.

338's coamings were also held on with silicone. Make sure you have backed out all 8 screws (per side) along the seat. Make sure all other screws are out also. Screws go into wood blocks (cleats) so they shouldn't be too hard to move. Use a dental pic or an awl to clear the slot of the screw. An impact drill (you can afford the $240 Hitachi?) with a bit that exactly fits the slot or an old fashioned brace, again with a bit that fits tight in the slot, and steady pressure should start them.

The silicone on the 338 coamings was very sloppy, and not everywhere. If you decide to slip a wonder bar down in the crack, feel and tease it befor you start prying. Might get movement by slipping the crooked end of the wonder bar under the bottom edge. Easy,now. Also slip thin bendy spatulas in the crack to help cut the rubber. 3 or 4. Slide them in. Make sure the ends of the coaming are free. Slip spatulas in all the cracks.

You'll have a grand old time getting the rubber off. Slice and push with a sharp strate scraper. Then a pull scrapper, the best have carbide blades.

Pay attention to the splits by leaving them alone a much as possible. A mild chemical remover might be good here for the old finish.
When the wood is as clean as you want it, see if you get movement in the split ends. Hope you haven't forced any goop into the crack. Dental pics. See if you can close the splits so the surface is as it was in the beginning! If the stripper requires a water rinse, a toothbrush might help clearing the crack.

Dry. Suggest TiteBond 3 to glue it up. Bend the crack open by hand, a little helps. Squirt glue in. Might bluetape the margins of both sides of the crack. Leaving just the crack exposed. That would allow wiping off the squeeze out easy. Don't want to smear glue on the mahogany.
Clamp flat side with softwood battens (make sure nearly all of the squeeze out is wiped off.) If some of the batten glues to the mahogany, you'll sand it off. Then clamp edge to edge. Clamp the flat sides lightly, first Slowly fit the split back together. This might have been a dry run, first.

When set, sand. Pull scrape the hard glue. If you didn't get that exact match, use a sharp scraper to remove wood, rather than trying to sand it even.

If you have coamings that are 3/4" thick, now you might use some metal pins up into the split from the bottom edge as mechanical keepers. One or two 2 1/2" s.s #8 screws would do it. Good luck on drilling straight holes. Find modern screws that have straight shanks and drill the holes bigger than normal, just enough for the threads to catch. Might drive them in with a little polysulfide on the threads. Use round head screws, no countersinking!, you'll never see em.

Even if you don't get a perfect rejoining of the crack, with all that varnish on there, who will notice?
When you finally get to seal and varnish do all six sides of the coamings.

That's one way.
There's ten other.

[commanderpete]

I got the coamings off sorta how ebb describes, pounding several putty knives one next to the other behind the coamings.

I remember Nathan mentioned somewhere about making a garrote out of a guitar string and dowels. Pull it behind the coaming to saw through the sealant.

On the old adhesive, I'd be a little concerned about grinding it into the deck. It might cause problems with the paint adhering in the future.

I'd probably feel better if the old adhesive was hard instead of rubbery.

Maybe nothing to worry about.

Trying to strip it off with chemicals is going to be time-consuming or ineffective, as you're finding out.

I'd probably sand it all off and down to flat gelcoat. The clean it up with a few chemicals including a solvent wash like Interlux 202. Then give it a final sanding and wash.

The deck hardware has to come off. No way to get a good finish otherwise. This way you can tell whats going on in the core. If you need to recore or "drill and fill" an area, this would be the time.

You'll be overdrilling and epoxy filling all the hardware holes, which gives you peace of mind in the future.

All these yellow boats popping up here lately What deck color looks good?

A lighter shade I think

http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/a...tid=3010&stc=1

[legalair]

I was thrilled to get the responses, Thanks! Since the pictures have been taken, I have taken off most deck hardware and will begin the overdrilling and epoxying this weekend.

Coamings: I do play guitar so I will spend a little time with that method. Ebb, I appreciate the tips on restoring the coamings. Teak is a little pricey and hard to find in the dimensions I need. Definitely worth trying. I do a little woodwork so I should be able to give it a good shot.

Carpet adhesive: The adhesive is hard and not rubbery at all. I tried using a hard plastic bristled stipper brush with the stripper and it didn't work. I thought of trying it again with a bronze brush to get into the non skid. May work. I just wonder to do this right, that I just shouldn't take it down to flat and redo. i am going throught the trouble anyway. I do need to do some glass repair on the aft starboard side anyway.

As far as the yellow hull, that is as good as gone. I am thinking about a midnight blue or deep "Sooner" red color for the hull. In addition, the name of the boat will revert back to "Endeavor" from the current name "Ronny G." I don't know any Ronny G's anyway. When I found out the former name was Endeavor, I was thrilled. Being an Aviation Attorney and aviation nut, it was fitting to have a craft named after a fine ship of another type. My dog's Gordon and Cooper (Gordon Cooper) can attest to this trend.

Lastly, what a blast it has been to sail such a wonderful boat. Not just thrown together like some boats today. I look forward to keeping this thread updated on my progress. I just gutted the interior of all the teak trim and the, yes, carpet glued to the inside of my boat. It's kind of exciting starting the project out. My wallet isn't as excited as I am though. Bret

[ebb]

Bret,
Sorry didn't mean to patronize. In wanting to help, I tend to get too complicated not knowing another's skill levels. Have thought bringing up methods would get many responses from other readers - like BS-ing in a bar - not always the case - but we often get a quorum on this forum.

Not a resident expert. Only a scurvy enthusiast.

Have fun on Endeavor's upgrade!
Good to know, isn't it, a lot of us are (working) in the same boat?

[legalair]

Ebb, your information was exactly what I needed. My woodworking experience only goes so far as working with new wood, not restoring wood. I always wondered whether split wood could be made strong again and you gave me hope.

As far as the group goes, I don't believe I would be attempting this restoration if not for the timely, informative responses and various methods all of you provide. Thanks! Bret

[ebb]

That's right! C'pete sez
be a little concerned about grinding off old adhesive.
Silicone can only be laboriously scraped off.
Avoid driver solvents like acetone to clean the surface of the gelcoat where the coaming was mounted.
Naptha is about the limit on the boat or the wood. It is better to abrade the surface impetuously with like 36 grit to remove stubborn rubber crumbs, then 80 grit. No machine heat.

One great woodworking tool is the Nicholson #49 cabinet rasp.* Jamestown has consistent better pricing for this gem. If you did end up with a bulge on your coaming restoration, you'd grasp this baby in your fingers, on the body of the tool not out at the tine or handle, and gently work over the bulge at 45 degrees to the grain as a sort of shaving tool. Just until you start scratching the flats. Then the sandpaper wrapped around a flat block of wood or a 3-M rubber sander.

The rasp is dead flat itself, or should be. IE one side is flat, other side rounded. Its's better than a low-angle plane or rough grit sometimes to establish a flat plane. Has endless uses. It'll get you out of trouble a hundred times befor it gets dull! Great for fiberglass.

*[If the japanese made this tool it would be made exactly the same - but the teeth would be pointed the other way.
Would guess it's handmade by its price and feel. And look, it looks like a fine japan tool. Very often use it by holding the front end. The teeth are sharp but you get used to the pain.]

[eric (deceased)]

I dont know the hooz or wize any one would put ass-pro turf on any boat.it doesnot shed wah-wah... it retains it.and it has no non-skid properties at all.I hoid of someone using it on the deck of a large tri-moron.it was found capsized(very stable in that situation) trying to get around Point Conception (conniption).his body was found face down not far from it.Az foar as I am concoind,duh only place fer any carpet on a boat is under the batteries.

[legalair]

I am in the process of sanding/grinding the cabin for refinishing. I need to get the laminate off the berth bulkhead that is currently under the strongback conversion plate. Is it safe to dissassemble the conversion with the mast up?

Secondly, I was considering non crane methods to lower the mast. Cranes are $300.00 a pop to use, so $600 altogether. I thought of devising two poles with a U shaped fitting at the top and a strong handle at the bottom. These two poles would be fitted under the spreader attachments, close to the mast where the fitting is strong. I would have two strong gentlemen lift the mast up with the poles and then have several people help stabilize it and walk it down.

If someone has tried this method and died, or if it is just plain stupid, please let me know.

I am also considering right now how I want to refinish the interior. I haven't decided whether to relaminate the bulkheads and sides of the seats, or whether to paint them. Any comments by those who have gone before?

Again, I appreciate all of the help. Bret (pictures will follow)

[commanderpete]

$600 to unstep & step the mast is pretty steep.

There's a few discussions about unstepping the mast around here. You need to lift the mast straight up to clear the mast step (and the electrical conduit on the Commander).

You also have to prevent the mast from falling fore and aft, or toppling to one side or the other.

I'm thinking an A-frame arrangement would be best. The bases of the A-frame could be secured to the lower shroud chainplates on either side. The top of the A-frame would be above the spreaders. Some sort of multi-part tackle would hoist the mast up and then lower the mast as you walk the bottom of the mast forward or back.

That's my theory at least.

On the laminate, I'd just fill the holes and paint it.


Edit: Here's what Tim did
http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/s...ghlight=unstep

[legalair]

Here as some of the latest photos of the boat renovation. I had cracks in the large portlight frames welded and powdercoated a bronze color, then ordered the small bronze portlights and winch stands from Southern Lights. Pricey, but nice. Should be done in about two weeks. I hope.

[legalair]

Do to the condition of the teak on the boat, I had to remanufacture all of the teak except for the traveller base. Lot of time, lots of varnish, lots of unique cuts with the tools that extended my previous skill level, that is for sure. The most challenging was the coaming blocks where they attach to the cabin. Not fun without old one as guides. Didn't have one that wasn't destroyed in the takeout phase.

[frank durant]

Looks GREAT !!! love the deck colour.Sure looks like a new boat.

[Tony G]

High carumba! That is one nice looking boat. The teak work is top notch, bar none. It seems like years since this thread had some action and you've made up for it. More pictures, please.