Pearson Ariel #304

[legalair]

Hello, I am a new member of this forum, as well as the new owner of Hull #304. It is definitely a "fixer upper," but is in sound shape. Any observations would be appreciated based on the photos. Especially any tips on getting the green carpet up and refinishing the deck. Here are some photos.

[commanderpete]

Welcome aboard.

I would suggest a wedge to chip the golfball from the cockpit to the foredeck. Then its an easy putt into the cowl vent.

Just kidding. Boat looks like it had some care and attention. We've seen MUCH worse around here.

I'm sure the carpet was put down to cover a variety of evils. Just going to have to be scraped off and see what you've got. The carpet people use a heavy scraper that looks like a flat shovel or edging tool. I doubt the original nonskid is going to be worth trying to save.

Then you have to decide whether the deck needs a recore.

Then comes grinding and painting. The carpet glue might cause some problems.

But, we're getting ahead of the game.

The cracks on deck around the rudder post are fairly typical.

[ebb]

Great you're aboard. This website is a huge resource, hope you find what you're looking for using the Search button on the top of the page. But you may want to come right in with your own questions and advice.

You may have to invent your own method for removing the carpet, don't think I've ever seen that befor!!!

My guess is that the DFO used flooring adhesive. Now you can always go buy lethal mastic removers with good ole methylene chloride, and almighty caustics in them - poisonally, I would research the brand REMOVALL, and there's a KleenStrip remover in a green can. Haven't used either. Don't know what's in them - maybe based on citrus acid. Both say 'environmental' on the label. But better ask them if it's ok to use on old polyester gelcoat. Removers are specific, so it's the right one you want. And ones that won't dissolve your lungs and the meat off yer fingers.

Might pry and scrape a corner up and see if naptha will clean off the residue left on the gelcoat. If it does then look into the "green" removers. Might cross hatch the carpet (what? 2" squares?) with a utility knife to try to get the remover under the turf. Or try BOILING WATER. Or a heat gun, tho it might melt the plastic. You might be able to rent a pole scraper, a kind of longhandled chisel for stand-up work. To avoid naptha for final cleaning, there's a biodegradable cleaner called KRUD KUTTER, that supposedly is very good. GOOD LUCK!

[frank durant]

I find old boats are like young kids....you'll find you have less free time , they can be frustrating and aggravating but fun , rewarding and will give you a sence of pride too.Have fun! There is a ton of info here...as well as a wealth of knowledge and Ebbs good humour .Ask direct questions and you'll get lots of answers. Must be cold where you sail....I've never seen an Ariel wearing a sweater! COOL !

[c_amos]

[size=3][size=4]Welcome aboard![/size] [/size]


[size=3]Looking at the switch panel, it looks like it is an inboard model. [/size]
[size=3]I see an outboard hung off the transom. Is the A-4 still installed? [/size]




[size=3]The really nice thing is, no matter what lurks beneath the turf you have bought a good boat that is worthy of the work she may require to bring her back.[/size]




[size=3]I highly recommend the manual that the association sells. It is a great 'companion' to this forum. I am quite sure that between it, and the volumes of information buried here, you will find the answer to any question that you might ask........[/size]






[size=3].....That is except for 'how to remove astro-turf from the topsides?' [/size]

[size=3][/size]



[size=3].... No, I don't think anyone here has faced that one yet. [/size]














[size=3]Seriously, you really have bought a great boat. Congratulations![/size]

[Bill]

Ariel #304 formerly resided in the SF Bay Area -- inboard engine and all. Had a yellow hull before it left for Texas. Next appeared in Oklahoma. Our new owner has failed to include his location when registering, so we're not sure of the boat's location.

This boat was the first to have its strongback reinforced by the method shown in the manual (first and second editions). The owner was an engineer who came up with the fix.

Outboards on transoms are frowned upon by yours truly. The reasons are posted and can be found by using the search function. Bottom line, it's dangerous.

[legalair]

I appreciate all of the input thus far. I browsed this site prior to purchasing the boat and found a wealth of information I felt I could rely upon in fixing the boat up.
My name is Bret and I live in Norman, Oklahoma. The boat is slipped at Lake Hefner in Oklahoma City. Prior to my acquisition of the boat, it sat in the slip shown in the pictures for two years without ever being untied. I thought she needed rescuing. I have taken it out several times and am impressed with her.

Thanks for the info Bill regarding its previous owner. Where can I learn more about what has been done to it? Secondly, the boat does have an internal A4, however, the previous owner said it needed a rebuild due to leak in the water jacket. Not sure about what that means yet. My intentions are to rebuild the A4 and get the outboard off of the transom.

Bill, you said the outboard was dangerous, is there a hidden danger, or the danger inherent in every outboard? I am a pretty safety conscious guy and want your feedback.

Lastly, I have pulled up the carpet in a couple of corners and old, dry, brown adhesive coats the deck. I think I will have to find "an inconspicuous corner" and start experimenting with getting it off.

Again, thanks for the input. Bret

[iceman]

Make sure you become a dues paying member and order the paper manual
Its invaluable material

You will like this association

Iceman

[commanderpete]

A transom mounted outboard is nice because you get the engine out of the water while sailing or docked.

On the downside, the engine could be swamped motoring in very rough conditions. You've also got weight at the extreme end of the boat.

On the Ariel, you have to sit on the lazarette or lean over it to operate the engine, which could be awkward or dangerous.

But, your boat has a pushpit so I don't see a real problem for the time being. It works, use it, go sailing, have fun.

[frank durant]

I agree with "commander Pete" that they can be swamped in rough seas , but an even more dangerous trait of a "bracket hung" outboard is their inability to keep the prop IN THE WATER in big stuff.I've had several boats with them and the screaming engine as the prop breaks free of the water at the crests of waves is not a nice sound. Nor is the loss of momentum or the extra wear on the water pump.Bracket hung outboards and rough stuff is a no no in my books.#50

[legalair]

I can't figure out why the boom has extra rigging in center. I understand this one has sailed to Hawaii, was this a protective measure, or just extra rigging? I was contemplating removing this extra hardware or rerigging so I can raise the jib from the cocpit. Any suggestions? I have searched the archives and looked for ideas. Any favorites? Bret

[Bill]

I understand this one has sailed to Hawaii,

Can you verify that?

[legalair]

Well, I finally removed all of the "astro-turf" from the deck. I guess my wife can't affectionately call her the avocado boat anymore. As you see from the pictures, the adhesive left a rather big mess. 3M adhesive remover doesn't even put a dent in it. Because the non-skid not so non-skid anymore, I was thinking of just sanding the deck down and reapplying a new non non skid surface. There a lots of threads regarding non-skid, by my novice searches didn't turn up any info regarding the proper methods to remove the old non skid and finish. What do you experienced refurbishers suggest?

I have seen a few threads on recoring, but I have no soft spots at all that I have found and don't feel it is necessary to gut the deck and start from scratch. There are a few repairs in places you see on the picture that probably require it, but nothing extensive. The hardware was bedded down very well, so I think the core is fine.

A few suggestions about non skid choices and finish removal procedures will help. I have a sanding block, a belt sander, an orbital sander, etc. Is this the way to go. Do i just take the finish down till the non skid is gone and stop there?

Also, my coamings are very dried out and when i tried to remove them to refinsh, they are hopelessly (maybe) stuck to the sides of the cockpit. It appears to be a silicon bedding or something keeping it stuck. I also noticed both boards have the beginning of a split where the cockpt stops. Can this be reinforced with some filler or are they a write off and need to be replaced altogether? I think I would break them in half if I applied the force to remove them.

I sailed the boat extensively over the last 9 months and have found the boat to be a sanity saver. Its time to pay it back with some lovin' care. Bret

my before picture is here:

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...achmentid=2214

[ebb]

Hello legal air,
338's coamings also split at aft end in relation to step cutout. Depending on what your refinish plan is, eg strip all the old finish off befor sanding, you might get close to the cracks with a magnifier and see how the splits clean up. If you can move them by hand you can do something.

338's coamings were also held on with silicone. Make sure you have backed out all 8 screws (per side) along the seat. Make sure all other screws are out also. Screws go into wood blocks (cleats) so they shouldn't be too hard to move. Use a dental pic or an awl to clear the slot of the screw. An impact drill (you can afford the $240 Hitachi?) with a bit that exactly fits the slot or an old fashioned brace, again with a bit that fits tight in the slot, and steady pressure should start them.

The silicone on the 338 coamings was very sloppy, and not everywhere. If you decide to slip a wonder bar down in the crack, feel and tease it befor you start prying. Might get movement by slipping the crooked end of the wonder bar under the bottom edge. Easy,now. Also slip thin bendy spatulas in the crack to help cut the rubber. 3 or 4. Slide them in. Make sure the ends of the coaming are free. Slip spatulas in all the cracks.

You'll have a grand old time getting the rubber off. Slice and push with a sharp strate scraper. Then a pull scrapper, the best have carbide blades.

Pay attention to the splits by leaving them alone a much as possible. A mild chemical remover might be good here for the old finish.
When the wood is as clean as you want it, see if you get movement in the split ends. Hope you haven't forced any goop into the crack. Dental pics. See if you can close the splits so the surface is as it was in the beginning! If the stripper requires a water rinse, a toothbrush might help clearing the crack.

Dry. Suggest TiteBond 3 to glue it up. Bend the crack open by hand, a little helps. Squirt glue in. Might bluetape the margins of both sides of the crack. Leaving just the crack exposed. That would allow wiping off the squeeze out easy. Don't want to smear glue on the mahogany.
Clamp flat side with softwood battens (make sure nearly all of the squeeze out is wiped off.) If some of the batten glues to the mahogany, you'll sand it off. Then clamp edge to edge. Clamp the flat sides lightly, first Slowly fit the split back together. This might have been a dry run, first.

When set, sand. Pull scrape the hard glue. If you didn't get that exact match, use a sharp scraper to remove wood, rather than trying to sand it even.

If you have coamings that are 3/4" thick, now you might use some metal pins up into the split from the bottom edge as mechanical keepers. One or two 2 1/2" s.s #8 screws would do it. Good luck on drilling straight holes. Find modern screws that have straight shanks and drill the holes bigger than normal, just enough for the threads to catch. Might drive them in with a little polysulfide on the threads. Use round head screws, no countersinking!, you'll never see em.

Even if you don't get a perfect rejoining of the crack, with all that varnish on there, who will notice?
When you finally get to seal and varnish do all six sides of the coamings.

That's one way.
There's ten other.

[commanderpete]

I got the coamings off sorta how ebb describes, pounding several putty knives one next to the other behind the coamings.

I remember Nathan mentioned somewhere about making a garrote out of a guitar string and dowels. Pull it behind the coaming to saw through the sealant.

On the old adhesive, I'd be a little concerned about grinding it into the deck. It might cause problems with the paint adhering in the future.

I'd probably feel better if the old adhesive was hard instead of rubbery.

Maybe nothing to worry about.

Trying to strip it off with chemicals is going to be time-consuming or ineffective, as you're finding out.

I'd probably sand it all off and down to flat gelcoat. The clean it up with a few chemicals including a solvent wash like Interlux 202. Then give it a final sanding and wash.

The deck hardware has to come off. No way to get a good finish otherwise. This way you can tell whats going on in the core. If you need to recore or "drill and fill" an area, this would be the time.

You'll be overdrilling and epoxy filling all the hardware holes, which gives you peace of mind in the future.

All these yellow boats popping up here lately What deck color looks good?

A lighter shade I think

http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/a...tid=3010&stc=1