Thread count for turnbuckles

Hi all,

Has anyone replaced their turnbuckles lately and knows the precise size to order? My turnbuckles are original and the male piece (pin with threads) is 3/8 in. I'm certain a turnbuckle made to fit 3/8 pin and 1/4 in wire (my shrouds) is correct but I'm confused about thread count. Is threading universal for a 3/8 in turnbuckle ? Lastly are original turnbuckles chromed bronze? I am getting new turnbuckle bodies only, and don't want to have some strange metal reaction by getting the wrong material ....

I just brought my boat down from the Champlain canal and am in the mid Hudson River waiting for my mast to be stepped. Need new turnbuckles before continuing on south. Any timely information most appreciated thank you !!!!!!!

Hi Emily,

My turnbuckles are 3/8- 24 thread. I have both closed turnbuckles that appear to be original and an open one that is not original - but all are 3/8-24. My shrouds diameter is .200" which is slightly under 1/4" but I think they are the same as what you've got. As for material type on the turnbuckles- I'm not sure. They are Vaguely magnetic so that would suggest 300 series (probably 316) stainless. But I really am not sure.

Hope that helps!

-Ben

I hope your stepping was casual. And I know This isn't exactly timely but the information about turnbuckles is timeless.

Thread count on typical domestic TBs is standard; National Fine (NF). Some European products use metric sizing so be sure to pay attention to what you're buying.

The open body turnbuckle is chromed bronze and studs are Typically stainless steel. This combination prevents the threads from getting fouled which can happen easily with stainless on stainless. Often TBs are oriented so that a counter clockwise turn adds tension but the important thing is that you orient them all the same.

I'm sure your wires aren't original, but if they are that's more of a risk than old turnbuckles. You should seriously consider new wire if so. You can tell if a wire is shot by how it lays when free of tension. It should lie straight, not wavy. Any damaged or broken strands also warrant retirement of a wire.

Remember, a rigging plan is designed around a safety factor, not simply "ultimate breaking strength". Any compromise to the wire's integrity reduces the safety factor and leaves a vessel more vulnerable to rigging failure.

https://theriggingco.com/2014/10/22/...-a-turnbuckle/

is a short tutorial on what's current, and shippy. I think turnbuckles

should be installed in what is common practice. But that still may be

confusing. TRC says that practice is now "lefty-tighty --righty-loosey".

My interpretation of that is: when turnbuckle is toggled to the

chainplate, we turn the body of the buckle counter clockwise to

shorten the shroud/stay. (as I understand.)


If you google >Hayn turnbuckle< you can find current lists of standard

American measure and standard Euro metric. Clevis pins, which

indicate the size of turnbuckle are generally twice the diameter of

the cable.


Original Ariel/Commander were 3/8 bottles with swaged 3/16 cable.

If your rig has bottle screws and swage fittings, they should

immediately be changed. By rights, if you did not replace the rig

yourself, you really should replace it all. With a complete

examination of all tangs, masthead/crane, spreaders and base.

Good Luck.:D