epoxy resins on Ebay

Has anyone searched for epoxy resin on Ebay? I was surprised to find 82 auctions and but-it nows going on. The prices seem much lower than at any of the retail stores, I however wouldn't know what to look for in a bargain or quality epoxy.
Anyone with some free time who could view these Ebay items and make a recommendation / observation would be appreciated. Some of the mix ratios are ; 2-1, 4-1 , 3-1. Non-blushing I know is better but that is the extent of my knowledge. There is one epoxy that is green, once properly mixed turns white , that seems idiot proof enough , well for me anyway. My plan for using this epoxy is for a deck recoring and filling the keel void. The more information I gather from the different manufactors quite honestly, the more confusing it becomes.
When I questioned a boatyard owner/manager his reply was "Ehhhh, epoxy is epoxy" That was helpful, of course that answer was after I paid him for the boat! :o Thanks

I'm sure some of it is fine. Maybe you could find what seems to be a reputable company who will tell you when it was manufactured. I would avoid somebody just trying to unload their old stock.

According to MAS epoxy:

"What is the shelf life of these products?
The resin has an infinite shelf life and the hardeners have a shelf life of a minimum of 1 year in a closed container."

Many of us have used epoxy that's a couple of years old without problem. But, I'd rather start with fresh stuff in case you have leftovers. The hardener eventually starts turning brown if I recall

I took a look at my eBay (California)
Nearly every product is offered by one company called Polymer Products under the brand name Max Bond.
I'm unfamiliar with this brand - but that doesn't mean a damn thing.

The variety of products it is listing may be some indication of authenticity. A good range.
I think I flashed by a waterbourne epoxy under this brand name as well.

The company is based in Ontario, CA.
Their web site is "Under construction". This would cause me some caution.
They sell a gallon kit of laminating, I believe a 1 to 1 formulation, for $40. That's about half what I pay for a premium marine 2 to 1 epoxy from my supplier.

Obviously these people are trying to break into a new market
rather than unload old product - but who knows? We don't know.
I'm not happy that there is no web site. Sometimes you can get an idea of legitimacy from that. Could be a 'Chinese' outfit.


C'Pete is right: Side B, the hardener, certainly in laminating epoxy I'm very familiar with, is often clear light amber when new. It gets very dark and more pungent the older it gets. May have some oxygenating effect from being stored in a partially empty container.
Side A, the resin side, is usually water clear. It can crystallize, get milky and thick. Dunking the can in hot water for a time will get it clear again.
Neither of these aging or storing problems seems to affect the bond of the product I am using.

I've bought a lot of epoxy over the years - often trying out 'cross-over' stuff in an attempt to find cheaper material. There are a couple caveats in buying unknown brands. AND some wellknown brands like West System.
One is 'blushing'. If you are laminating or building up layers over setting times, the appearance of water soluble wax/grease can be annoying. It must be removed to insure bond with the next layer.
Premium epoxies do not blush.
Another is solvents. The best marine epoxies are "100% solids" which mean they are low odor (low VOC) ie they can be used indoors and in your boat. Solvents are always bad. Epoxy formulated with solvents also shrinks.
Cheap epoxys will use industrial byproduct extenders like nolyphenol (banned as a hazard in the European Union) which are carcinogens. They also are often the cause of blushing and are an indication of adulteration.
Hardeners often promote blushing. Fast and medium hardeners are for the professionals. I've learned always to use SLOW hardener. It's fast enough, and generally won't blush on any user. The stuff I use year round has never bluished. And if I were to start with a new brand, I would buy "no blush."

imco. Structural epoxy, often sold as a glue able to bond wood is undependable in the marine environment. Consider it an interior glue.
All outside epoxy has to be covered with another product to protect it from UV and water. Wood "bonded" with epoxy to wood, fiberglass or metal will not survive heat/cold and wet/dry cycling.
(Larry Pardey, renowned wooden boat builder, challenged system 3 claims for their T-88 structural epoxy and got a letter from their lawyer saying that he should have capitalized the 'S' in their name.)

Good luck!

Thanks ebb

I need to stock up again. The last stuff I bought was this

http://boatbuildercentral.com/products.php?cat=41

Its $93 for a 1.5 gal kit, $156 for 3 gal.

Funny enough, that's the exact same price as Raka (which I've also used). Maybe its the same stuff

I saw this guy on ebay, a bit cheaper

http://www.jgreer.com/

$73/$132

Commanderpete
The MAS brand 1:1 , saltwater resistent, etc. is the brand that interested me the most. They gave quite a description and analisys of their product including test results. If what a sales ad claims can be taken as fact
Ebb's point about a website is well taken. I would think in this economy many smaller companies are reaching out to new sales tools and venues trying to just survive and Ebay is probally the most cost effective for world market exposure at minimum cost.
Be interesting to see if anyone has first hand knowledge of any of these companies. Then again maybe the boatyard manger is correct, epoxy is epoxy. Thanks:p

High Strength Boat Building & Repairing Epoxy Resin Item number: 270175927982

This item listed on Ebay, is what I'm looking at for my recoring project. It appears to have the consistency without adding filler .:confused:

I know it's been said to mix to the consistency of peanut butter, however

the only peanut butter I know is Peter Pan crunchy, that's pretty thick :eek:

carl291,
One great thing about working with resin is making your own custom pastes and fillers.

Thin laminating epoxy will flow into all the little places. You want to do this to waterproof the excavated deck and to make sure the core material you are adding adheres everywhere.
......(you wet out your work first with a brush.)
When you mix fumed silica (cabosil, aerosil) with runny epoxy you can thicken it into a non-runny gel
as loose or thick as you want. When it is 'loose' you can slather it on with a brush.
......(when you put the core in you paste this gel on all sides - into the deck and on the core pieces - like frosting.)
After the replacement core is in you'll be pasting the original deck pieces back on top of your sandwich with this same gell. Then you'll sand the recored deck smooth as possible with 40 grit.
......(you can mix some of West System's 407 fairing mix into laminating epoxy
and make a nice easy to sand chocolate colored filler. It's a foolproof fairing material. West System imports this powder, it's the only thing I use of theirs.)


You can also mix into laminating epoxy (when you are thickening it with cabosil)
some chopped strand fiberglass. Makes thickened stuff bulletproof. You might introduce a glob of this instead of core material where you know a stanchion base, cleat or track will be. You can add milled fiberglass powder to the epoxy and get a smooth something hard as a rock.
You can add dust-like glass or phenolic spheres and make your own 407 fairing compound.

There are other things to add like paper flour or cotton flock (great for fillets) and ground walnut shells - you name it, or find it. The point is of course, thin laminating epoxy adds a great deal to the versatility, finesse, and fun to the rotton job.
.....AND you can also lay down fiberglass cloth and xmat... and laminate, which you can't do with a paste.

imco already thickened peanut butter ain't going to work too good for a deck recore. I think you'll be disappointed.
You gotta Rachel Ray.:rolleyes: