Coaming drawings(dimensions)

Hello all. After several hours of using the search option on this sight and reading through decades of posts about random coaming questions and answers I am now going to ask all involved.
I am looking for a drawing with all measurements, including bevels, rabbets and tapers. Even better I would love to know someone on the west coast who has a woodworker who can do the work.
Ariel 268 had her original coamings removed and replaced with taller ones which are nice for leaning back but they did not stand up to wood rot.
Maybe this drawing would one day make it into the Ariel owners book of essential information.
Thanks to any and everyone who may help with such an endeavor.
-Greg

And keep an eye out on the Ariels for sale page! Two pretty ones are coming on the market!!!

Hi Greg,

I noticed this post awhile back:

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...-boards-(ariel)

Also I'm planning on building a new set of coamings for my ariel and will be removing the existing ones this winter. I'd be happy to take measurements (including angles, radii, etc.), pictures and whatever else your woodworker might need. Let me know!

-Ben

Awesome Ben!
I have sent the email and I hope to hear back from this Ariel owner soon.
It seems like such an easy undertaking but the more I look at it the crazier it seems.
If I get mine done I will send along the pertinent info to hopefully help with yours or anyone else’s who need it.
Thank you so much for the response.
Take care and enjoy,
Greg

Here are some actual measurements taken from the boat's original coamings.
Coaming ends are obviously trimmed to angled cuts, and would probably be
layed out on full sized prepared planks that are 11 1/4" W and 84" long.

Top of coamings is dead straight. No curve. As is the bottom

The length of the cockpit that the coaming drops into measures 76 5/16"
-- measured off the old coamings.
The drop (where the coaming is screwed inside the cockpit) is 4" deep at the
cabin. and 2" deep at the aft end. Total length of coaming is 7'.
(Approximating for angle cuts.)

Height off the deck at the coaming blocks is about 7" + 4" (actual measure)
= 11".
11 1/2" could be the width of your stock.
Height off deck aft is about 3" -- 3 + 2" (actual measure) = 5".
Allow for 50 years of sanding, movement of the planets and little shrinkage.
Original mahogany thru-out the boat was Honduras -- an amazing durable
and stable wood. Original rudder also Honduras.

Coaming blocks are cut from 4x4x8" stock, There are angles top and bottom
that should be taken from diagrams or actually have the coamings in place to
mockup the blocks in place. 3/4" coaming is dapped 1" into the block for
3 #12 FHWS. Leading curved corner probably came from a 4 3/4" circle.
Curve is same top and bottom of block, so it probably was band sawn.

Four 1/4" hexhead lags (at least two lengths) and fender washers, from inside
the cabin, were probably used to clamp the coaming block to the boat.

Winch 'islands' are pot shaped, wide at bottom, smaller at top with just enough
room for a 4 1/4" winch base. Probably bronze South Coast. Believe the shape
of the island is more elliptical than circular. It's about 5" tall, ellipse truncated
(cut flat and butted to the coaming): 7 1/2" at the deck and 5 1/2" round over
edge around the winch base.
A bunch of angles that will need patterns, if you are restoring to the original.

Islands are horizontally stacked two-by mahogany. After gluing together cut out
on a bandsaw with a tilting table to easily get the angles.
Each island was fastened thru the deck with a single 3/8" flathead 7" bronze bolt.

8x2 1/4" FHWS in a straight run were used to fasten coamings to the cockpit.
4x2 #12 FHWS, in a square pattern used to connect coaming to the winch island.
3x2 #12 FHWS for the coaming connect to the corner block. All flat head wood
screws were bronze. Check out Frearson SB wood screws at http://tnfasteners.com/
Flatheads were set flush to surface. #12 and 1/4" taper drill countersinks from
http://wlfuller.com/ will make fastening the screws a breeze. Especially thru the
fiberglass in the cockpit. 3/4" material is not thick enough to counterbore for plugs.
Fasteners to attach the coaming corners to the cabin were 1/4" hexhead lags
with fender washers in the aft corners of the cabin inside. 4x2.

It is of course very possible that coamings were adjusted for individual Ariel's
as they were being assembled at the Pearson works.

Excellent Ebb!!!
Thanks for the info!
I will keep this post updated on this project and try and put together a full spec drawing of finished product.
Have a great day and enjoy,
Greg