Replacing Deck Tread Pattern

There are places on Ariel #82s deck that have been repaired where there is no deck tread - it has either been sanded smooth, or the replacement fiberglass patch is smooth (around the stanchions that were driven through the deck and on the foreward cabin top near the mast where Git Rot was used, creating a super mess that had to be sanded off).

I want to restore the tread pattern that is standard for the Ariel to these portions (so they don't look they were holes that were repaired or that the restorer screwed up).

So, assume that you have a reasonably flat surface (the curvature of the deck), the base is epoxy or polyeurethane, how can I recreate the deck tread pattern so that the "patch" appearance will be gone?

A related question regards the use of non-skid additives to deck paint. Do they stay on? Do they work? Does wear your knees raw when kneeling down? Upside? Downside?

There are some flexible molds available to recreate nonskid patterns. I have never used one, but they exist. Used properly, you cannot tell.

One source for this product is: Gibco Flex-Mold. (gibco@swbell.net) Phone 817-236-5021. No website, sorry.

I have had good luck with the Interlux polymeric nonskid particles mixed into the paint. They seem to hold up well, and it is a very easy system to use successfully. I used it first on my Ensign, and that deck is still going strong 5 years later. I used the same thing on my Triton and am pleased with the results--both functional and cosmetic. It requires removing the existing pattern, though. (as far as I'm concerned anyway)

Tim

Here is something on that Gibco product Tim mentioned.

http://home.earthlink.net/~shymu/pattern.html

You would need to determine the "basketweave" pattern Pearson used.

Getting a good color match on the gelcoat would probably be the tricky part.

The Gel Coat product looks neat, and may be right on target. Thanks for the idea. I'll look into their patterns. The color issue is not so important in as much as I plan to repaint the pattern part of the deck this year anyway.

I've gotten about that far as making a mold of the pattern when I decided to see if anyone else had words of wisdom. I have made a flexible mold about 6"square using stuff I got at Hobby Lobby ($9.99 or so). So far, so good. I used the top to the ice chest as the pattern. But now begins the experimentation and the inevitable failures/trial and error that I would like to bypass.

As for non skid, the paint I am using is Interthane Plus, and it has worked well on the flat surfaces using Interlux non-skid particles. The next step now is where there is the tread pattern, which, hopefully will be wherever there was a tread pattern originally. One of my concerns is whether those particles will settle in the grooves and essentially eliminate the deck pattern.

The upcoming Feb 1, editiion of Practical Sailor will have an article on replacing non skid. They will be discussing additives and tread mats. Should be worth a look.

When #76 was painted, the pro used a mix of bondo (or something) and fiberglass fibers for the non skid. Claims that this is what is being used on the "J" boats.

Bill: How was it applied? It looks like it was done with a roller. It looks great.

I received my samples of Gibco Flex Mold and that stuff looks great. If I had known about it when I rehabed my Ariel, that is what I would have used. It was what I was looking for. It is better, and more of a non-skid than the original pattern. But it would not blend in well with the current worn off and thin pattern generally prevalent on the boat today.

Yes, it was rolled on.

Going to great lengths to save the existing non-skid pattern is
kind of a waste of time in my opinion. At least on my Commander
anyway. The reason is that the pattern is so worn that it really isn't
non-skid anymore. The only way to get a match of the existing pattern is
to make a mold of your pattern and then lay it on wet gelcoat. Lets say that it matched the original
perfectly, It still wouldn't be very effective. Good footing is important to wet sailing.

A good way to deal with damaged patterns etc. topsides is to sand the no-skid
area, prime it with barrier coat and then paint it. A paint thats worth a look
is Interlux-Interdeck. The colors are limited, but you won't have to use sheen-
reducer or grit, it's allready in there. This paint rolls on easily and looks good with
a minimum of fuss,read - slung on like house paint. With a light sanding, two coats
of barrier coat and two of Interdeck there is only the faintest trace of the original
pattern and with deck shoes you feel glued to the boat. The Interdeck is a
very fine even pattern suitable for bare feet and seating areas.

Once you've painted your no-skid your free to work on your core from the outside
and as a result your boat will look sharper, be stiffer, and offer better footing.
You dont have to use barrier coat but it does work as an additional waterproof
layer that is hard and durable and has high-build characteristics. It works as a
tie-coat with the Interdeck.
Cheers, B.
Commander#215

Brendon,
I am so happy I read your post as I am working on C-295 this winter. The hardware is (almost) all off..struggling a bit with frozen, hard to reach nuts and csk slotted heads..you know the drill. Anyway, I am agonizing a bit over non-skid adn deck paint. This is my third restoration...and I used interthane plus (1996) and 2 years Perfection Plus which is a giant leap forward and easy to use. Intherthane plus with non-skid beads and flattening agent on the non skid areas would be my normal choice...but I am intrigued by the interdeck product ...I've been hearing good things about it. Sounds like you had a good experience.

Tell me about prepping the existing deck...How much filling and sanding do I need to do to get ready? What about spider cracks in the gel coat?

re: interior overhead
We're now spoiled with headliners and the painted interior ..the underside of the deck looks pretty bad, uneven, etc to us now. I was thinking about rolling on a coat of interdeck under there, too...because I think it would disguise all those blems. What are your thoughts? I did a Tartan 27 with Interlux Brightside, flattened, but it still looked kind of bush league. BTW, those little white foam rollers from Home Depot are resistant to LPU paints and work wonderfully. I painted the topsides of an epoxy/plywood sharpie Flag Blue and the results were unbelieveable to me. From 3 feet (not ten) it looked like a spray job done in a booth. amazing stuff..breakthrough maybe.

I need to buy paint in a coupla weeks and would be grateful for your early reply.

Thanks a million,

Bill

Bill,

I'd take a look at this product. (Kiwi Grip) It is a nice thick finish and looks good. I have not used it, but have heard good things about it. I like the uniformity, the thinckness, and the wear and ding resistance of this material.

http://www.pachena.com/KiwiGrip_Colors.asp

I am not a big fan of the finishes that contain bits of something as they get dislodged, become uneven to the eye, and really only look good just after being applied.

I sugest this since this is what I'd do if I were undertaking this project...