5 Attachment(s)
Maryland dove and drum point lighthouse
Maryland dove and drum point lighthouse
2 Attachment(s)
new winch blocks and shined winches
new winch blocks and shined winches, To make the winchblocks match the coamings I found an alcohol based stain from the place I got the wood its made by Behlen it leaves the stain in the wood and the alcohol evaporates allowing the wood to be pourous to soak up the varnish but the coamings are all natural thats only the look of the varnish.
5 Attachment(s)
Update of ongoing repairs
update of ongoing repairs
5 Attachment(s)
still working in the snow
still working in the snow
5 Attachment(s)
Further progress on the epoxy prime coat
Rounding point lookout mouth of the potomac
Sailing 1 week before xmas
5 Attachment(s)
Getting started on the bottom
Getting started on the bottom, On 4/2/12 monday am when we crossed the river wind was about 20-40 knots with gusts even higher and swells up to 5 ft. and real choppy , we had to go up river against it to get out far enough to turn east toward the bay and solomons Island to put the current and swells in our favor. There was one other boat out on the Patuxent that morning doing pretty good with storm jib and main up about a 30-35 foot sloop and while we were waiting to get pulled out we drove out for lunch to see the rescue squad with boat in tow and the state police chopper hovering over the river , Evidently one of those gusts of wind took them out and they had to be rescued . So occasionally we do get some tricky weather here which requires quick judgement and it always seem to come off the land from ssw.
5 Attachment(s)
Stripping, fairing, and blister repairs
Stripping, fairing, and blister repairs
5 Attachment(s)
Lazarette work and transom reinforcement
Here is some progress on my lazarette , its all done in mohoghany woven roving and cloth but needs a few more layers and the rope goes out through my backstay turnbuckle and up through the outboard well to the rear deckcleats which allowed me to undo backstay without fooling with the frontstay turnbuckle. I'll be shooting the foam in today and painting epoxy primer in chainplate area then adding more glass matt on the floor, but I may wait on adding the glass until i get back to my slip . The uprite transom supports tie into the reinforcement job i previously did when my rear hull deck joint came apart and i fit wood blocking and thickened epoxy at the base to fill that rear void like Rico did it's a good idea to force everything toward drainage. The picture of the block of foam on my tailgate is the amount that one can of great stuff urethane foam will yield , three to four cans each side should fill the lazarette
We stand corrected (forestay)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Chance
Paul,
Nice to see more work on your Commander. From your work description, it appears your attempting to restore the void in the lazarette locker with a similar foam (like original). If so, do not use the foam that comes from a can, like you can purchase from a hardware store. That is the wrong type of foam for this application. A more fitting type of foam and what you should use is a two part firm floatation foam, that after the two parts are mixed, can be poured into a cavity and it will expand and fill the void. The type of foam that I'm referring to is rigid polyurethane foam. It is USCG approved and a quart kit yields approximately 2 cubic feet. Do some research. With the amount of work your doing, might as well choose the right foam for this.
Thanks for posting the photo. Also, it's referred to as forestay or in some conversations a headstay, not frontstay, though I know what you meant.
Chance there is no difference other than the two part foam has the capability of giving a higher yield for my application the canned foam was perfect for the application and the density can be increased if you continually vent the gas ISOCYANATE after the foam has completely filled the void . They are both polyurethane foam products which consist of 1.Polyol a sucrose or sugar & petroleum mix 2. A surfactant which controls the size and shape of the bubbles 3. Catalyst which controls the reaction rate for example the quicker the reaction rate the smaller the bubbles/ slower the larger this dictates the density of the foam and then finally you have 4. Isocyanate , which activates the reaction which is a liquid with a fast evaporation rate . These 4 parts are the makeup of all polyurethane foam products they're just already mixed in the can and separated in the two part mix , I find the can to be not as much mess and I've been using it for 30 years in the HVAC trade and the reason the foam is there is to prevent gasoline fumes from accumulating not for flotation , This stuff developes a waterproof skin on it that is impressive ,I did several tests on it personally and I'm happy with it . I used 8 cans 4 per side and vented it to get max density and its done. The foam your thinking of thats USCG & US army core of engineer approved is styrofoam which can be dissolved with acetone btw but must be encapsulated , They use it to float docks and bldgs and make cheap little coolers with it. And if you use the two part mix and you trim off the excess you have ruined your waterproof skin and opened it all to absorb water and besides if you think about it that little bit of whatever foam is in there wont keep the 3000# ballasts from dragging her down god forbid and knock on wood. If you really think about it thats where the factory screwed up, they poured in foam with no pipe in the laz drain and trimmed down the eccess foam on top before laying the floor then reamed out the drain creating a big stern sponge.
5 Attachment(s)
refilling the laz floor with foam
Quote:
Originally Posted by
paulsproesser
another shot
heres how I did it and you have to keep popping the mushroom heads of foam to acheive a maximum foam density . I drilled 9 holes big enough to fit the applicator tube from the can.
