rubber vs bedding compound
The exposed Dolfinite between the coaming and the deck will oxidize. That's good because you can then paint over it or as Bill a few years ago wrote that he put a bead of polysulfide in those seams.
Perhaps one could really clean out the seam when the coamings are newly mounted by using paint thinner and fingers in a rag - wiping the squeeze out out of the seam to leave a clean smooth depression about a 1/4" deep. Then, after it is dry, blue tape it off and press in (with the same finger) a tidy line of white rubber. This would make the appearance of the join better.
I believe in a 3 year old thread here we also surmised that the coamings should have the same number of varnish coats over every surface, especially where they are screwed to the cockpit.
Dolfinite's neutral color makes it a natural for bedding interior fiddles, trim and other work as well. This stuff is made to be used above and under water as a waterproofing seam compound. So it is not less of a product than a synthetic rubber. It isn't a glue or adhesive - it's a friendly compound when you are attaching wood trim to frp and you don't need to bond. Any wood should be sealed with CPES befor bedding. This can help the compound last longer as the oils won't soak into the wood.
Can anybody think of a reason NOT to use Dolfinite under the winches? Under the mast pad? Maybe even under chocks and cleats and chafing plates.
Stanchion bases? Thar be a good place for p.sulfide.
{There's a good aguement for not using Dolfinite if your fit and holes are sloppy. Because you can thickly apply p.sulfide and wait to tighten up a fitting until partially set in order to get a thicker flexible gasket. When you cinch up you can get a very mechanically watertight connection.
You will squeeze out most of the Dolfinite under most fittings. Imco Dolfinite does its job when very thin which I don't believe rubber will.
Dolfinite is definitely correct for bedding wood to itself or fiberglass. And correct for pieces you intend to take off later for varnishing. Dolfinite is also less likely to leave gaps or spaces that rubber. If you slather D. on both sides of the work you can get a pretty good voidless mating of the surfaces and therefor no leaks.
As for those who say D. dries out, I would point out that the tighter the mating, the better the fit, the fresher the compound will be when you take it apart. Dolfinite is not really a good gap filler. And Dolfinite filled gaps will dry out.
In boat building a FAYED seam is where two pieces of wood are closely joined. Like keel structures. That is where Dolfinite or white lead would be put, to keep any water from seeping in. That tight!}
getting the hang on coamings
Mornin C'pete,
From what you say, it comes to mind that something as simple as some stiff insulated electric wire would work well. #12 that could take a shape as you bent it to move it away from the surfaces. Given the bend in the pieces, they aren't going to hang nicely, (338s old coamings have kept most of their curve) it might just be simpler to put temporary eyes in the bottom edge to get it to hang better.
Taking the coamings on and off has a problem too, doesn't it? The holes will start showing activity, chips breaking out maybe or the hole oversizing, a ding from the driver slipping. I guess some have gone with those stamped donut washers to dress it up. But the holes in the boat will start loosening up, and upsizing screws could get expensive or even problematic. Don't know what the answer is here. Be nice if hanger bolts were in the holes and as you reinstalled the coamings you just pressed them in place over the threaded portion and turned on the nuts. Corse you'd have these annoying nubs in yer butt. Just another annoying idea! :o
Might get back to barrel nuts on this! :D
Fuller bits & plug cutters
Bean an ole woodworker it's hard to imagine a toolkit without the Fuller taper drill bit and counterbores and a set of plug cutters. There are NO substitutes. And Fuller is a family run business - which are disappearing like rare ducks these days - so we should be supportring them anyway.
Fuller kits at www.ehartwicks.com (just for example, have not studied their prices, but they do have helpful intros to the Fuller 'system') start at $80. That puts you in business for drilling traditional screw holes.
You need to check the size of the counterbores - different screw sizes share the same size plug hole maker. You will most likely need 1/4, 3/8, 1/2" - TAPER plug makers.
You will then find you have to have size 14 for 1/4" screws. Not sure of the plug cutter you need these days for that size. 5/8"?... but that's a good size to have for burying carriage bolts, say. Or erasing a bad hole scar.
They may seem esoteric at this point - and you will never need them all the time. But when you need them, you can't do it right without them.
{There are probably size 8 and 10 screws used mostly in the A/C. And those two might share the same plug cutter - so you could get started with 3 pieces and expand as you require. It would seem that some intelligent merchandiser would put a basic kit together, like in a nice wood box, that would INCLUDE the plug cutters that go with the taper/counterbores. At a decent price - but that is asking too much.}
