Does anyone have an inboard model where the atomic 4 engine
was taken out and had to remodel the galley because of it.
If you have any pictures it would be greatly appreciated
John:D
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Does anyone have an inboard model where the atomic 4 engine
was taken out and had to remodel the galley because of it.
If you have any pictures it would be greatly appreciated
John:D
The Atomic 4 comes right out.You dont need to remove the galley.
Unless you really want too.
I came up empty using the "search" function, would anyone share their ideas and knowledge about some way(s) to get the Atomic 4 out of an Ariel??
There was an article in the newsletter way back in the early '90's (maybe late '80's?) where someone did just that. As I recall, they first had to remove most/all of the galley and then used a plank on which to slide the engine into the main cabin where it could be hoisted out. :D See page 56 in the manual for a little more detail. If the author is still around, maybe he will check in . . . :rolleyes:
I think that with a cooler full of Harps Lager, I will at least be able to get enough muscle power to make it happen !!
Hey Joe -
So what are you gonna re-power with? Outboard, inboard, oars, ______? :)
Quote:
Originally Posted by joe
Scott Airing had previously done just that:
(merged here)
With pictures to prove it.
I seem to remember him telling me that he re-assembled the galley/sink/fridge complex with a few well placed wood screws that he could take back out and gain access again.
If you mast is up, the halyard and boom have the makings of an engine crane (been-there-done-that with a 4 cylinder westerbeke)... or with a couple of jack stands and a come-along you can kludge together a gantry:
Kurt, I'm converting her to an outboard. I have a post on here asking if anyone with an outboard model Ariel can give me the dimensions and exact location of the square hole for the outboard. I hope to learn that soon as the new outboard will be her in about six days. It's a Tohatsu 6hp, long shaft with alternator. The Atomic 4 I have runs like a dream, Steve Airing was the PO and being a former submarine Machinist Mate, he took most excellent care of the engine and installed an electric fuel pump, big ol' Balmar alternator and Balmar voltage regulator, AND electronic ignition. He took such good care of the engine that this past January, when the temps here were literally record-breaking cold, I never had to crank the A4 for more than fifteen seconds to get her started. I do confess though that I did have the water intake hose wrapped with electrical heat tape to make sure that I did not give the water pump a dry start. I sailed six times in January :) and the warmest day was 25 degrees F. :eek: The engine gave me no trouble. NOW onto the reason I'm converting to outboard. She is in a lake here so that I can sail and enjoy her while she is being made ready to go out into the big blue part of the world. I am very safety conscious and I do not want to have ANY through-hulls below the waterline. I am even moving the cockpit drain though-hulls aft to get them above the waterline and will be using very large, heavy-duty ball valves. I'm no statistician but from my own many years of sailing, rebuilding and "messing about in boats", I think that through-hull fittings below the water line are one of the absolutely most dangerous things.
I figured when the time comes I'd use a lever suspended off center, the short end would goto the A4 the long end pressure woud be applied by hand, giving fine control of the height, and solving the issue that you cant just link up centered on the A4.
the A4 is about 350lbs if a foot and a half off the short side would reach under the bulkhead to the center of the engine, 3 feet on the long side would need +175 lbs force to lift (if my thinking is right) but being I weight 170 I'd ballast the long side.
Just a thought.
Joe -
I'll measure my outboard well in the AM and post those numbers if they haven't been already by that time.
Also, check out sailFar.net, if you haven't already - it's full of people at all the various stages of taking their 'small' boats to "out into the big blue part of the world". We have some super-duper contributors over there, lots of good contextual information. More than a few feel the same as you about below waterline thru-hulls, too... :)
I have to laugh at your suggestion to read sailfar.net, I've read it so much I dream of it now :D You are quite correct, much good info there just like here. Many of the ideas I have got from here are going into Sirocco's remodel. I have not yet got the dimensions and I will be extremely grateful to get them. The one dimension that has me the most stymied is how far forward of the bottom of the transom is the back edge of the hole? Where do you live / sail? I am in Tulsa, Oklahoma (for now)
Joe
Joe
If you are headed out into the blue water, my vote is to hang on to your cockpit drains and put some quality 1.5" seacocks on them. When there's a couple hundred pounds of water in the cockpit, moving it with a bailing bucket while you are steering is no fun. .....
cheers,
bill
Over the counter seacocks won't pass muster from a "subsafe" pount of view but these boats don't generally get below PD ;)
You talk Submarine eh? I'll have the drains but they will be a few inches above the waterline with very solid seacocks. The angle of the hose between the drains and through-hulls will be about 25 degrees and it will all be done in inch and a half.
Hmm....sounds a bit like Ebb's plan