Navigation Lights

Well, my stern light has gone kaput. Turns out the interior contacts got corroded and broken. Anybody know if the guts of these lights are still sold somewhere?

I would like to keep the old fitting instead of buying a new stainless steel Perko (which would probably be the sensible thing to do). I need to replace that old wire too.

While I was procrastinating, I ran out and bought a portable stern light made by Aqua Signal. I only get about 4 hours of light for 4 batteries. But man, this light is bright.

I always wondered if the running lights on our old boats are as powerful as they should be. It seems alot of power boats out there have real bright running lights.

Maybe the working part of a new light will fit inside the old housing?

The internal electrical parts are standard. I picked up a bulb socket fitting from the local chandlery that fit fine. You do, however, have to break the solder fastening used to attach the socket to the light fixture.

My recollection is that the fitting (the entire assembly) is a standard Perko light, the same as you have. Only the insides have been changed to accept the new style light bulbs. You can replace it, if I recall without new screw holes. double check that for I may be wrong but don't think so.

A question came up on another thread about fixing navigation lights.

There could be a number of reasons why the the light doesn't work. The source of the problem is often corroded terminal ends or the socket.

You can try cutting back the wire a bit and making fresh connections, but its probably better just to run new wire.

The socket can be replaced with a standard brass "double contact bayonet socket". Often the old brass socket will have fused into the bronze housing, making removal difficult. If it really won't come out, you can punch the bottom out of the old socket and shove a plastic double contact bayonet socket in there. Its a little smaller than the brass one.

That's about all I know.

On old Commander 80 there is a fishing float sticking out of a hole in the cabin just forward of the cockpit to Starboard. In a corresponding hole on Port there is a nifty little red light.

I am going to go out on a limb here and guess that berfore I'm done I'll need a nifty little green light.

We are trying to do stay as close to original as possible. Does anyone have a source?

Thanks ~ Jim

Jim,

Original hardware for Ariels, Commanders, Triton's and etc., is no longer available. We do have a lead on the original patterns and a navel architecture school that may get possession. (Search on "Ronstand" for more info.) But, this is turning out to be like going through probate . . .

Meanwhile, you can try finding an early Pearson that is headed for the chainsaws and bid on the light fixtures. BTW - I'm looking for an original stern light, in case you find one ;)

Is this the 'stuff' you guys are refering to?

Yes, that's the original Pearson hardware.

Make me an offer. I can't refuse. :D

Do you have the lower half of the stern light? (I'm ok on the running lights.)

Bill,

I'll try to find the lower half of the stern light. It must be somewhere around here in one of these boxes. When we picked up 113 she had nav lights on the pushpit and pulpit so the original equipment wasn't in use anymore. The pevious owner was pretty good about not throwing anything away. Meaning she was fully loaded with stuff. I hesitate to call any of it junk.

Anyways, I'll look for it-it's yours for showing interest. Tony G

I need some help with the lights guys...
and they say the only stupid question is the one you don't ask so, when do i need to turn on nav. lights, and which ones.... also, if i'm anchored somewhere, is a lantern in the backstay ok?
Is the one about 10' up on front of the mast called the steaming light? I've only been out after dark one time, came in with flashlight, sweeps, sheets...by myself. Learned to head back sooner!

Anyway, if i need that light when i'm out past curfew, i need a new one. Last one had been pieced together a few too many times, so i just took it off and retired it.

I thought that since Santa brought me a new Minn Kota to try out for marina maneuvers i better get the lights working. I guess you can call it being under power.(attn. cmdrpete) Will be interesting to see how it works. The sweeps are fine, but sure would be a lot simplier to have that thing in the well. Getting old and lazy. I need something for locking through the dams too on our summer river cruise. Can't wait! Happy new year. :cool:

The light on the front of the mast is the "steaming light." Its used when the boat is propelled by "machinery." A boat under oars shows the same lights as a boat under sail.

There is no required place for an anchor light. Its supposed to be an all-around white light, visible for two miles and displayed "where it can best be seen."

A good addition to anyone's sailing library is Chapman Piloting, Seamanship & Small Boat Handling. Very complete discussion of lights in chapter 6, "Navigation Lights and Day Shapes." Elbert S. Maloney is the editor. Publisher is Hearst Marine Books.

I have some good news for all of you, unless something has changed in the last year or two, and I don't think it has.

Those are all Perko fittings, and when I rehabed my little puppy, I replaced the port and starboard lights with the Perko - they are the same as the originals except for the type of light bulb - and I may have replaced the stern light as well. Even if Perko no longer carries them (which I think they do), they might have some that are bright and shiny lying around.

If you can't find them, let me know and I'll look up their catalog number.

Peter, see page 79 of the manual. It has a reproduction of a portion of page 15 from Rostand Mfg Company's Marine Hardware Catalog #20 (their last).

As you know, this company supplied Pierson until the 1970's. The "side lights" are catalog #54, the "stern light" is cat #56 and the "bow light is cat #52. I assume that there is no patent protection on these styles of light fixtures :) which is why Perko may have something similar. Got photos?

Lookig at the 2004 West Master Marine Catalog, on page 697, the side lights are either West 281147 and 268518, Perko No. 0955oP0CHR and 1264DP0CHR (They are sold in red/green sets and I can't recall which of those two sets is the right size), and the stern light is West 257162, Perk No. 0965DP0CHR. They are also available, I believe, from Defenders

They visually look the same, but the gasketing and the interior lamp design is improved over the original lights. And yes, they are bright shiny chrome.

I just wanted to start a thread on this item because I found
a person who does exact copies of the Navigation Lights
that you see in the Rostand Catalog in the manual. You know the side lights
and that winged stern light. I found out that they are based on
Herreshoff (sorry about the spelling) templates. This does not surprise
me because Pearson was based out of Bristol, Rhode Island. They
took over the old Herreshoff site in Bristol. They are made of Bronze
and have a special coating so they never deteriorate or patina. I found
this guy in a Wooden Boat magazine he is based out of Hull, Massachusetts.
If anyone is interested add to this thread and I'll post the information on this
thread. :cool:

Might be a good idea to have the contact information. Someone could measure the originals on our boats and then check to see if the ones being offered were similar in size.

Does he do other hardware too?

Yes pulley systems that look like older systems but made with modern alloys.
He has a catalog. His name I think is Jim Reinbeck and he will send out a catalog. He did some historical fittings for a Herreshoff named Joyner. I think
he has made his reputation on historical replicas. But if you see the lights on
this they are mind blowing they look exact. Especially the wings. I have my originals. I am also going to put in LEDs in those bayonet sockets I got info on that too. Less amprage is that right spelling and No replacements. Gotta love it especially when electricity is at a premium. :D


John

Please share Reinbeck's contact information as soon as you can. My lights are trashed and I'd prefer the traditional design.
Thanks.

The info is as follows:

The company is J.M. Reineck & Son

The contact is Jim Reineck

The work # is 781-925-3312
The fax # is 781-925-8984

Email is sales@BronzeBlocks.com (I don't think it works.)

I think the website is http://www.BronzeBlocks.com it looks like it has not
been updated in a while.

The address is 9 Willow Street
Hull, MA 02045-1121

Best method of contact is call the work # you will hit an answering machine
leave your name address and tell him you want a catalog. It took me a couple of weeks to get so don't become worried if it isn't in three days.

There is something else I would like to mention the lights Stern and Port and
Starboard Side Lights are not inexpensive!! They are $125.00 a piece.

I want to get them because if they fit or if holes or have to be modified a bit
they still look more authentic and closer to the originals, but using more modern techniques. My bulbs are are all dead. I am replacing with Leds they have some at West Marine for Bayonet Sockets. and there is a website
superbrightLed.com I think that is what it is but check it in google. Best of Both worlds you know and god knows we could use less maintenance!!!
:D

Sorry about original spelling it is Reineck not Reinbeck


John :rolleyes:

:eek: Great stuff, but holy hell! I'll have to wait until I win the lottery...

Yeah I was worried about the monetary concerns myself. ;)

Maybe we could work on a group rate. There are at least a thousand ariel boats
and a lot of tritons ensigns and so on with all their associations and take the price down.


John
:D

I understand these guys do pretty good work as well... Spartan Marine

I replaced all my navigational lights with Perko lights. They are identical to the original navigational lights, with updated lighting assemblies internally. The price might be kinder as well. Let me know if anyone needs the Perko numbers. As I recall, they are shown in the West catalog.

Which Perko and the sternlight. How about the steaming light and the
360 degree masthead any suggestions. What have people used.

John

The sidelights are in the current West catalog at hte lower left corner of page 696. I don't recall whether the dimensions are 4 1/4 long or 5 1/2 " long but you can probaably figure that out. Perko No 0955DP0CHR or 1264DP0CHR. I think I used the 0965DP0CHR on the same page for the stern light - although it does not have the "wings".. For the mast I used the combvination Deck/Masthead light (West catalog page 702) Forespar #132000 The masthead light, same page, Davis#3310 in lower left corner.

I used the Davis light because I do a considerable amount ofr anchoring out and the low power drain and automatic on/off is very advantageous. For evening sailors in crowded waters, a brighter masthead light might be more advantageous.

Hope this helps. You might want to get a Perko Catalog. They might have some lights that are not in the West catalog. Let me know if you need any other info.

I replaced the old damaged Pearson port and starboard running lights with new Perko LED lights. I found them unsatifactory, sent them back to the factory because the chrome came off of one and both of them had water condensation inside. That was two weeks ago after exchanging emails and I have yet to recieve replacements. The LEDs draw less amps and seem to put out brighter light than the orginal units. I just hope that these lights are not another example of good old traditional American products that were so dependible being manufactured in Mexico or Communist China, if so I will look for old USA made replacements. :mad:

Here is another photo of the cabin side running lights. (see post # 4) Note the Sea Dog plastic replacement globes that are available at your local chandlery. These need their sockets knocked out and replaced. Probably will "switch" to LED bulbs . . . :rolleyes:

If you look at West Marine's catalog the new one, I noticed they have bayonet LEDs, which can fit into the bayonet sockets of your old lights where the GE 90's would go. They sell them for $40 clams. But you can get them from url]http://www.superbrightleds.com[/url] for $8.00 found them out in Boat Works Magazine :cool:

Bill,

You don't have to change the sockets on your old lights. You get the bayonet LEDs from superbright LEDS. Your old sockets are fine!!!!! But do you know a place that sells the rubber gaskets that fit the glass globes. They have the bayonet LEDs in West Marine but they are asking $40.00 for them. Totally ridiculous. http://www.superbrightleds.com does it for $8.00 per light.

More Sane :D


John

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Sprite

But do you know a place that sells the rubber gaskets that fit the glass globes.

---

No source for these, to my knowledge. I plan to fabricate new ones. Maybe use "O" rings. :confused:

Question: How well do the LEDs relate in terms of brilliance to the incandescents?

I don't want to diminish either the brilliance of the light or the angle at which they can be seen. The lights are relatively low to the water to begin with. I am not certain the big 1,000 ft freighters, not to mention the cigarette boats racing around at midnight, can see them that well.

Not all , if any are USCG approved . Approval = x lumens at y feet or yards . LEDS tend to be not as bright and more directional . I have replaced all interior lights with LEDS , but hanging back on the running lights . I have a photometric light meter , left over from a previous life, that can take spot readings from sources and surfaces far away . I may do a test in the future . Also get a red bulb and a green bulb , they will not be filtered by the lenses and will appear brighter .

Interesting. The reason I ask about brilliance (in addtion to my experiences with LEDs in the business world) is that this year I replaced my Saturn bulkhead compass with the ITT/Danforth/Rule bulkhead compass. (They are the same compasses but the company(s) have been through a few mergers - hence the different names). The new and old compasses are largely identical, except that the incandescent bulb on the old unit has been replaced by an LED. What a piece of junk. You can hardly read the card on the new one, whereas the old one you could read from several feet away.

I have heard for many years the expression "but the new stuff doesn't have the problem the old stuff you are familiar with" and "the technology has really improved" and more often than not wound up disappointed. I have concluded that most of the the users of those expressions has no first hand experience with the old stuff. That is why I still prefer film cameras.

I have a Nikon I purchased in 1969 ( and several newer ones including a Nikonos that is my boat camera) and I have a Nikon D-70 digital SLR I purchased in Feb of 2004 , I have shot one role of film since the D-70 arrived . Nikon got it right and I have felt no need to shoot film anymore , getting better prints from the digital .

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by Mike Goodwin

I have a Nikon I purchased in 1969 . . . and I have a Nikon D-70 digital SLR I purchased in Feb of 2004. Nikon got it right and I have felt no need to shoot film anymore . . .

---

Thanks for the info. I understand the D-70 will accept Nikkor lenses, but I assume you have to go to manual when using them. :confused:

Depends on the lens , some older ( like most of mine ) yes ,you must go manual. All but a few of the older lenses will work with it too!

If I understand these posts correctly: 2 mile, maybe even three mile led lights are here already.
Orca Green Marine can set you up with a tricolor with various options for between $240 to $370 for a tricolor/anchor with a photo sensor to turn it on and off and strobe. And if I recall, it's no taller than a can of 8oz pineapple slices. [a little taller]
Stecktronics have more reasonably priced light inserts for existing AquaSignal fixtures.
svhotwire carries led replacements for incandescent 15mm bayonet bulbs. And the Sea Sense line of dome lights, strips and recessed lights.
Haven't compared any prices. Here's a young business attempting to do it all for you.

Led's are available for almost everything on deck and below. The people I ran into at the boatshow are
www.svhotwire.com
They were so new they didn't have a brochure.

If you already have a plain ole anchor light on the mast top, an outfit called GreenRay (Deep Creek) makes an led 'bulb' they call a light-engine you can retro for a mere $495. For cryinoutloud!

Somewhere I saw an even flatter (pineapple can sized) tricolor light out of sweden or denmark. led's is the only way to go. If anyone establishes a relationship with svhotwire let us know, ok?

LEDs are expensive, there's no doubt about that. But there is the trade off of being energy efficient, and, we all know how expensive energy is. As new, improved products hit the market I'll seriously think about 'outside' lights. Yes, there are a couple of approved masthead lights out there, but, until the public demands the products and pays for the R&D the market won't grow to include the product we want.

Anyway, that's enough of my blab for one night. Found these guys somewhere./www.superbrightleds.com/

Mike,

So you go with the Red and Green for the Side Lights.

For anyone what is the best way to get the socket out any particular tool.

John :)

Punch out the plastic bottom of the socket. You might be able to pry some of the old brass socket out of the bronze housing, but its probably fused in there. Have to grind it out.

I found some grinding attachments at the Dollar Store to use in a drill.

Or else they might have a dremel attachment of the right size, maybe something like this

Commander Pete

Fortunately I have the tool which you attached.

To everyone, I have found that if you go to Perko or West Marine for LEDs you will pay top dollar speaking in hundreds for the unit. and forty to seventy for special bayonet bulbs. 8 dollars at superbright. and guys I got it from Boat Works.

John :confused:

I thought we were trying to keep things on the cheap!!!! :eek: :) :mad: ;)

Gang, I've been absent from posting. Sorry.

I replaced the bulbs in my Running Lights with double contact bayonett LED bulbs purchased online from www.Superbrightleds.com (see previous posts) I have the original Bronze / Chrome hardware that is pictured way up in the front of this thread. Some tips for those of you contemplating this:

I found that although the Superbright LED #1142 wide angle bulbs fit just fine within the glass colored lenses, they could not be depressed quite far enough into the socket bases to allow me to twist them and lock them in place. So, I had to buy new bulb base inserts, remove the old ones, and install the new ones inserted slightly farther into the fittings. The old bases were soldered into place too low in the sleeve-- ok for a GE-90 bulb, but the collar on the 1142 LEDs bottomed out too soon when pushing them in.

I found that the easiest way to get the old bulb base sockets out of the fitting was to soften the solder, heat up the fitting on the gas range (please hold with pliers or something) until toasty, then put the fitting on the vice and hit the edge of the bulb socket from the inside with a flat blade screwdriver (move around the bulb base edge from the inside). All other methods I tried just wasted time. The stern light was fused together and it still parted fairly easily after the heat treat. Heat is the ultimate. I polished the inside of the fittings after taking the old bases out to make it easy to insert the new ones and allow me to adjust them. And BTW, the old silicone gooped on these fittings was still soft. That stuff will outlast any dinosaur fossil.

I used a little Gorilla glue to hold the new bases in place at the right position (Double contact bases don't need electrical contact from the base itself). Make sure that when the bulb is inserted that you can still put the lens cap in place all the way until it seats with the gasket, that you can still depress the bulb and twist it into place, and that you can still access the two set screws in the bulb base that hold the wires in place.

These lights are very bright and cost $6-$9 depending on the type. Worth it if you need to conserve power and do a lot of sailing at night. Otherwise, buy a subscription to a good sailing magazine and stick with the GE-90s for a buck apiece.

Excellent Kent. I'm going to go this route. Those incandescent bulbs are a terrible drain on the battery. What bulb sockets did you end up using?

Anybody have an idea for gasket material? I need something for under the globe. Also under the stern light fixture itself (I notice the steaming light has a gasket under it).

Major marine catalogs think that real sailors don't need to make their own gaskets.
Auto supply has only engine related gasket sheet.
If you invent a company name for yourself (SV Bluenose, eg) I bet you can order from McMasterCarr. They have miles of foam and rubber sheet in all kinds of thickness in synthetic and natural rubber, much of it potential gasket material.
Much you can get in one foot squares, sometimes you have to get a square yard. Some of it is pricey, some very cheap.
High strength Weather Resist 40A (relatively compressible) EPDM rubber 12" X 12", $5.24. might be useful.
EPDM is an inexpensive outdoor rubber. It does not come closedcell foam by itself, but blended with other rubber.
Blends of neoprene,SBR, EPDM is the most common commercial closed cell gasket material with moderate resistance to fuels and weather. EPDM holds up better outside than neoprene (door gasket) but should not be in direct sunlight.

ECH, epichlorohydrin, is a closed cell rubber that will do moderately well with fuel and has excellent resistance to sunlight, heat, oxidation, weather, ozone. Gets my vote for all-round versatility.


Ionomer foam sheet reads good. Doesn't come thinner than 3/16" and they make buoys out of it. You want weather (Ozone, UV) resistant. Closed cell foam would give a firm more compressible gasket. But you have to get rubber that is rated for compression recovery. In other words, material that won't easily take a set and get tired while sealing a fitting. Don't want to compress any foam gasket more than 20% to 30%. MCMCarr has good charts and a bit disappointing explanations of uses.
And its a trip. You can start it on Page 3316!

HYLOMAR UNIVERSAL BLUE is a polyester-urethane gasket dressing that is a NON-SETTING compound you can use around the boat for other things you need to take apart later, and galvanic separation.
Idea is to fill the mini imperfections between the gasket and the fiberglass and/or metal surface. Better leak insurance than just depending on tightening up a dry gasket joint.

Believe it's distributed by Permatex and available in Permatex displays at the auto supply.
It's good for water and fuel and is NOT SILICONE based.

Don't have to scrape this dressing to get it off - easily removed with acetone.
As I see it, while synthetic gasket rubbers are getting longer lived, they still have to be replaced once in a while, especially electric fittings - so why not make it easy on ourselves.

Cut out thinner gaskets with X-acto knife and cardboard patterns. For round gaskets I just got a General gasket cutting tool that does inside and outside diameters at the same time. Some rubber like EPDM slithers around under pressure. You will notice in the online McMCarr catalog that some sheet is textured - this obviously is to create some tooth and to hold gasket dressing better for watertightness.
Foam stays put better for a seal. Dressing helps. You can get some dressing that acts like an adhesive and keeps the gasket from moving. May be necessary on freestanding fittings that capture the gasket only with fastening holes. Want the flange of the fitting to create a groove in the gasket, so some set is needed, that's why I lean toward closedcell foam material.

Pete,

I used the generic WM bases---- might have been anchor. Try inserting the LED before replacing the bases--- you may get lucky with one being in the right position. Be sure to use a red and a green bulb / port stb, not white. Finally, LEDs are doped semiconductors "P and N" doping material, the electrons jump only one way to product the light. This means that it matters which way the wires are hooked up. Put the LED bulb into the base, then test the wires to see which way will light up the bulb. Switch the wires if it doesn't light. It won't hurt the LED if you get it wrong first try. And be carful you don't drop anything taking things apart---- those little screws will easily find their way into the drink.

Hey all:
I have ordered a selection of different LED replacement lightbulbs from 'Mastlight.com'. Their LED bulbs are 12v DC making them simply 'Plug & play' in most of our basic systems. No need to modify wriring or add gizmos.

I will be trying some different bulb types for the original Pearson factory navigation lights as well as interior lighting and steaming light. (My mast mounted steaming light is not an original fixture.)


I will post the results of my fit test and recommendations based on my results here once I receive the LEDs and try them out. I've been looking for this sort of product to complete my recently re-plated original nav light installation, so I am looking forward to getting these bulbs.

If there is interest in a group buy, let me know and I'll look into this. I had a nice chat with the guy that runs the shop and discussed the possibility of adding a custom page on his web site for Members of the Pearson Ariel/Commander association in order to make the search and purchase simpler & easier.



If you want to look around the website is: http://www.mastlight.com

The website is nicely set-up to search for the type of bulbs needed, and it also lists many replacement bulbs for the most common nav light fixtures out there.

Most importantly, this vendor has insight into the boating and has taken the specific marine use of his LEDs into account (including the right height for the typical fixtures' lens, and degree of visibility) something that most other LED vendors take for granted. (most are set-up to cater to the gaudy show-car/motorcycle, etc. markets...)

In the past, I've asked a few current commercial LED marine nav light manufacturers for help in my desire to retrofit my original fittings with an LED. Several of them stated that it was just impossible, and that I would be non-compliant with the Coast Guard and recommended that I buy their fancy fixtures... (most of which would look silly on a Commander!) even though the acknowledged the market demand for a simple replacement bulb...



Some FYI:

Are LED Bulbs approved by the USCG ?
Following the existing regulations, only the light housing (Fixture assembliess) are subject to an official approval (it must have the right color, be tinted in the mass and resist to ageing). Luminous sources must not get an agreement. However, lights must conform to the International Regulations of the IMO, which specifies the visibility distance of navigation lights.

- Since our lights' degrees-of-visibility are determined by actually blocking out the light from view, (note the wings on the stern light fixture for example) I think that the use of LEDs is perfectly fine in the case of our (or similar) fixtures. If a nav light relies on lens refraction for its precise degrees of visibility, then you might have a issue with the actual location of the light source. Not the case with our fixtures.

- It is recommended that you use COLORED LED bulbs as required for nav lights.(i.e. LEDs that emit RED / GREEN light as opposed to white light)

The reason that the colored LED bulbs are better is that the colored light emitted by the LED is more closely compatible with the tint of the glass /plastic filter thereby allowing MORE of the LED's available light to pass through the filters. (i.e. - they seem BRIGHTER).


As it turns out the original bulbs (incandecent) are: #90 Bulb bayonet type with opposing pins and two terminals on the bottom. Overall length 1-3/8 (Pictured below).
One Mfr number is: 90 12v 6CP - if you want to buy the incandecent version replacements.

Thanks RICO - great info.

Here on the ranch LEDs are going in everywhere. Even had some 120/120s overheating their cans in the kitchen ceiling that were changed out with LED 'bulbs' of equal intensity. Often had to change burnouts, now have lights that essentially will outlast ME.

Have the sneakin suspicion that designed in obsolescence is comming soon.
Manufacturers will have to factor out the 'forever' in LEDs to sell more product.
Maybe NOW is the time to make the change to LED.


Want to have total LED on littlegull. Including navigation.
Have read that under 65 footers are limited to 2 mile lights. I think cruising warrents at least three mile. I'm pretty sure that brighter lights are safer and not exactly measurable. Guess we'll find out.

Thanks for the site to explore.
The Orca $400 LCD TriAnchor Light with Photodiode & Strobe that I last looked at is WAY too pricey - so a incandescent change out in an old style fitting looked pretty good. Have to find out.
Believe that while the LED will last forever it is the wiring and connections that still is un gran problema.
I understand that motoring requires lights at deck level PLUS an all white up top???. Can that be the anchor light?
The Orca site doesn't make clear whether their masthead is compose with white LEDS or colored. Makes sense that a red light should be a red LED, etc.

Check out the Fiji based
www.bebi-electronics.com/reflections.html
They have an innovation on an allround white for the AquaSignal Series 40.
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________________


Has anybody here converted an AquaSignal 40 series masthead to LED?

Does the BebiElectronics allround white addition seem appropriated to you?

How have you wired it?

Can some sort of strobe function be added to the anchor white light?

I have been seeing more and more satisfied Bebi customers. Most have been getting the "Owl" anchor light. When I get to that point, that is the way I plan to go.
I am going to replace the bulb in my masthead (steaming) light with LED

I bought a couple of great nav. lights on EBAY from a company in Sydney, NSW for a pittance really about 20 bucks with shipping. This is for the complete light with the housing and wiring. Painted housing (plastic) stainless was about $45.00
Jag Trading Online was the supplier.
I'll bag a photo if anyone is interested, I think it's a nice looking light.

Carl do you have a website link?

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/merchant/jagtradingonline_W0QQ_nkwZQQ_armrsZ1QQ_fromZQQ_ipg Z

They have a pair ending in 4 hrs. $9 plus shipping, they also have the stainless on auction. The shipping time seemed less than a package from CA to GA.

Hope this helps. Carl

Thanks Carl

I just got a EM from Jamestown Distributors about nav. lights on sale,
The Perko lights very similiar to the ones on Pearson boats are $71.97. I don't think they are LED.

Just wanted to say that we are into our second Orca Marine masthead light (first one went toe to toe with a lightning bolt and lost) and I can't say enough about them. They are very well made and provide a very, very bright light. Arthur's anchor light outshines every other anchor light that we have seen. My wife and I always note after a row ashore if there is a brighter light in the anchorage.....to date we have not seen one. The power draw is minimal and they are simple to install (if your mast is down!).

Yes they are not cheap but I think the old saying about getting what you pay for applies here. I would not hesitate to buy another although I'm hoping that that will never be the case!

I also plan to upgrade the lower steaming lights to LEDS as well. I can run for days using the masthead and not notice a ding in the batteries.

Andrew

I have tested a number of different bulbs as an LED replacement for the original Pearson fixtures - with very good results, I am happy to say...

The vendor I've worked with is 'Mastlight.com'. If you want to place an order or just look around the website is: http://www.mastlight.com

:) :) :) :)
Hans, who operates the site has provided a COUPON CODE for use by Pearson Ariel /Commander owners; (or people lurking here!) Simply enter 'Pearson' in the space provided on the order form. This will apply a discount on your order.

Note that I get NO comissions, nor do I have ANY involvement with the vendor at all. I am simply providing this for Ariel /Commander owners reference because this vendor's products fit our fixtures nicely and he was willing to offer a discount for the group.






Here is some insight into the products I found work really well:



Original Pearson Navigation Lights:
For these fixtures I ordered RED and GREEN bulbs model 'BA15D Stacking D27LED Red' and 'BA15D Stacking D27LED Green'
*** Be sure to specify the 'Tall' version as these are about 1/4" taller and a much better fit in the fixture socket than the 'standard' version which sit a bit too low. You can see the 'tall' bulbs installed in my fixtures below in Picture #1

(See posts above for an explanation of the reasons why colored LEDs are more desirable than the pure white LEDs in Nav lights)

The standard height version of the bulb is pictured on the page (see the 27 LED version in the center of the page:
http://www.mastlight.com/BA15D.html

I found that these bulbs (which have a total of 27 LEDs integrated into the bulb) provide not only MORE light than the standard bulb, but they do so at all relevant angle ranges. (I was initially worried about the 45 degree visibility due to the LED arrangement, but it is not an issue when lit up...

The Stern Light:
I have a stern light that is not a Pearson original. I think it is relevant as it is almost identical to the Pearson original. (Mine came off a 1950's Chris-craft.) In any case, the space here is smaller compared to the Nav lights and the best fit for this was bulb Model 'BA15DD 12 LED White'.

You can see a picture of the bulb on the same page as the bulb above if you look to the bottom left of the page. You can see it installed in Picture #2.
The top LEDs are a bit on the high side inside this fixture, but overall, the LED bulb provides more light than the standard bulb. I had my doubts, but when I installed it and saw it on, I was very happy with the outcome.

Interior Lights:
I was VERY happy to find an LED product that works with the original little lamp shades used for our cabin lights.
The Bulb looks like a regular household bulb (maybe a tad smaller) but has 70 LEDs and it is 12V. It is slightly larger physically than the smallish 12V/15 watt bulbs I was using to date, but the do provide more light.
Additionally, they provide a similarly warm light as my incandescents. See Picture #3
I'll post a picture with the shade on. They provide a nice warm light for the cabin. In darkness, I found that even just ONE of these provided a nice amount of light for most purposes. TWO would fill my Commander's interior with plenty of light to read by...

Great info! Thanks for the tips and all the leg work!

Ditto on that.
AND the toggle on the 'coupon code'!

You saved me some legwork. It's the best of both worlds, old world look, and new world electricty savings and bulb longevity. :)

I would think if you never plan to sail at night the original Pearson light may be fine with an LED bulb.
When I look at the nav lights I'm thinking...... Man, I hope I never come across a boat at night in a channel or sea with lights this small and have to determine it's intentions. I would think an upgrade would be in order if your plan is to be on the water after the sun has gone down. They may be proportionate to the size of the boat but they sure would be hard to see. I'm thinking something with twice the lens size would be in order.
Comments?

I find myself sailing in the dark in the sometimes highly-busy San Francisco /San Pablo Bays pretty often. This body of water is relatively BIG and I sail from one end to the other often...

Keep in mind that navigation lights are not like headlights; you do not use them to 'see' your way through traffic. And they are not very bright even on the biggest ships. Navigation lights are meant to be seen from specific angles in a particular way in order to enable others to tell the relative 'attitude' (direction of travel) of a ship solely by the scheme of lights that are visible at any one time.

I think that the LEDs provide MORE than a bright enough light source so that they meet the typical requirements (visibility at 2 miles) even in hazy weather. I usually stay out of ship’s traffic when they are in the channel, but out at sea, or when ships are at an intersection/convergence zone in the bay, I’ve not had any issues ‘signaling’ larger vessels for a clue on their intended course, or to let them know about my intended course simply by showing them a shift in my navigation lights.
It is often that the other vessel signals me first... (in the case of the smaller commercial vessels such as tugs, workboats, sailboats. (it is always a toss-up with recreational powered boats...)

The 'signaling' is done either by pointing straight at the vessel where he sees BOTh red & Green (when approaching close to dead ahead) and letting him pick his course, or by shifting course clearly and letting him let me know via his course change (or quick horn blast, in the case of bigger ships) about his preference. I find that this works very well and is much quicker and easier than a hail on the radio.

Because of the ease of this communication I am confident that my navigation lights are quite effective despite being so small and not too bright (They are much brighter with the LEDs now).

I completed my LED installation a couple of weeks ago. This was only one day before departing to the south bay on a Friday afternoon for a regatta. This 30 mile+ windy, dark & foggy trip in heavy traffic, provided clear affirmation that my lights are nicely visible even in adverse conditions.

(More details and pictures on the trip and regatta on the 'Mephisto Cat' thread shortly)

Picture: Bright LED at mid-day. Note that the image does not EMIT light so the LEDs appear less bright. In person, they are so bright that the light seems almost like a single point of light.

This picture is taken at a 45 deg angle off the bow.

When I removed the stern light on Destiny I broke the light base trying to remove the wires which had probably never been removed since she was new. In addition the glass portion was alread broke before I got her. I've been trying to find a replacement and finally found someone that actually has them. Thought some of you might like to know about these folks.

Do they sell just the glass globe for the sternlight? I can't find a plastic replacement. The Seadog one doesn't fit.

I might just replace the stern light anyway. I really don't like the "wings" on the light. A line rubbing againt the fixture ripped mine right off the deck, twice. The wires kept it from going overboard.

I don't see anything that says if they sell parts or only complete units. Probably best to call him and ask. The phone number is 781-925-3312 or send him an e-mail at sales@bronzeblocks.com. Let us know what he says because the glass is chipped on my side lights and it would be grat to replace just that.

Commanderpete - have you contacted - or should I?
I am also suffering from a cracked stern light glass globe syndrome... I could smack myself! -Ugh!

I was lucky to have all 3 globes intact... but no longer!

I installed a new gasket when installing the LED and I guess I tightened it too much for the beautiful globe's liking - not enough to destroy the globe straigh away, but enough for it to develop a crack.

I thought that I may be able to keep moisture out with a bit of prnetrating sealer, but nope - the water went in. I took the light apart and the 40 year-old globe is now in 3 pieces. :mad:

I am waiting to see if the globe can be somehow repaired. (A glass artist friend is attempting some magic...)

I've searched for a replacement with no luck so far... Perhaps these might fit?!

Rico please give him a shout.

I'm still conflicted about the stern light. I bought a cheapo incandescent replacement, but never installed it. My light somehow continued to work without a globe all year.

I don't know if I'm going to keep the original and get a replacement globe and LED bulb.

I looked very hard to find an LED replacement fixture. They don't seem to make a deck mount sternlight.

There is one guy "boaterbits" on ebaymotors selling a fixture. But I seriously doubt the bulb is bright enough

I've seen those fixtures... Inexpensive, but I wonder how long before the plating falls off... And I agree that the amount of light might be lacking on these.

I am amazed at the total lack of proper deck mounted stern lights. There are a few deck mount all-round lights, but no proper stern lights...

Anyway, I just got off the phone with Jim ( of J.M. Reineck & Son) and I've ordered a replacement glass dome. $25 + Shipping. I have my fingers crossed that it will fit properly...



UPDATE:
I have received the Glass dome and I am happy to say that it looks like it will be a perfect fit. I will post an update after the actual installation.

These are not plated but 304 stainless.

http://www.sea-dog.com/PDF/400035-1.pdf

All of the Sea Dog line of lighting is at this link.

http://www.sea-dog.com/cgi-bin/webdata_pro.pl?_cgifunction=search&_layout=pdfs&pd fs.itemgroup=Lights%20%26%20Switches

USCG regs dictate that sailboats under 65' have port and starboard side lights and a stern light.
The red and green sidelights are often shown in diagrams in the bow of the boat,
and we often see them mounted in a single fixture on the pulpit.
These lights and a stern light can be combined in a single lantern mounted on the mast head.
If we still want the lights on the bow, or separated on the cabin side and on the transom (or pushpit), Regs say that only one set can be on - NOT BOTH.

If we are coming into a marina at dusk and we have to switch running lights on, there are strong arguments for the deck level lights to be used because they can be seen better by others. And when we are moving they can be understood better in the dark by others. A masthead light imco in crowded waters is too tall and gives little information about who we are.

If we go with the side lights on the cabin, we would not have side lights (on) in the bow. One set or the other - altho it is unlikely we would have both.

If we are under power, which we may well be in order to have more control over the boat, Regs say we have become a powerboat. As soon as we get the motor going (even with sails up) we are under power.
If we are under power we have to show an all round WHITE light. The only place on a sailboat for an allround light is on the masthead. Under power we also will have the side lights on - but not the stern light.

This allround white light on the masthead is also our anchor light. Used as an anchor light, our side lights would be off.

LED 2nm
Practical Sailor in the 2010 Feb issue tests four led bulb replacements which might be of interest to those of us rennovating the old fixtures.
They also test three led tricolor masthead lights.
LOPOLIGHT (200-005) at about $700 with a five year warranty.
OGM (LXTA-12v) at $340 - two year warranty.
SIGNALMATE (2-nm Tri) $359 - five years.
None of these tricolors include the allround steaming/anchor light.

Notably absent is the HELLA led tri-color. Why would this manufacturer be ignored by PS boggles the mind - as these four are the only led tricolors with USCG approval that can be found, that I've found.

Not only leaving out a major player, but ignoring the white anchor/steaming light is really whacky.
However, the article redeems itself somewhat by carefully checking RFI (with a hand held VHF). Electricity reaching the semi-conductors, led's, causes EMI. This can screw up the VHF signal in the coils of the antenna mounted close to the led tricolor. The tr-color manufacturer has to shield his product from other electronics at the masthead.
They tested the bulbs too for interference along with the tricolors by holding the handheld VHF radio at close distances to the lights.
Suffice to say only LOPOLIGHT had no RFI at 0 inches.

SIGNALMATE got RFI at 10". Assuming the test procedure is good, there just is no way I'd get this fixture and mount a VHF antenna next to it.
The website advertises the tricolor is fully shielded. Now we know - thanks to P.S.
P.S. also checked out by distance observation whether the red/green overlapped. They also graded how green the green was, Led greens often have a blue cast. And blue is a law-enforcement color. Lopo and the Lunasea bulb got the nod for the greenest green.


I'm attracted to the HELLA NaviLED Trio Masthead / Anchor Light - $340 - with a seven year warranty.
Data sheet, drawings, measurements, installation anst all available online.
"Electromagnetic Compatability (EMC) This LED lamp is an electronic device. The electrical circuits contain components that suppress possible interference, both emission as well as susceptability. to the limits prescribed in EN60945".
We didn't get the skinny from Practical Sailor on this.
HELLA also have some nice side and stern lights at $93 each. Defender has them $10 cheaper.
They don't tell what any fixture or lens is made from (polycarbonate?). If plastic then 7 years warranty is a stretch in southern climes.
A half dozen international certifications including USCG. So the green must be OK.
Just info and all of it my opinion.

Why on water would anybody with an active sailboat go with a plain tricolor?
How would you later add the allround white, if you wanted to? Led's are already too expensive!

A tricolor light will draw less power than 3 seperate fixtures. If you're going to install an anchor light at the top of the mast anyway, it might make sense to install a tricolor/anchor light combination.

But, you still need deck mounted lights. You can't use an anchor light while underway (although I see it done frequently). A sailboat under power needs to show a "steaming light" and not an all-around white light.

As far as I know, the rules state that the steaming light must be located above the sidelights. You can't use a masthead tricolor with a steaming light.

I suppose you would use the tricolor offshore, for better visibility to shipping and to conserve power. Near shore, the deck mounted lights are more likely to be seen against the clutter of lights on the shore, and should be used when the engine is engaged.

Seems there are many more choices in USCG approved LED nav lights in the last year or two, and some are fairly reasonable in price. This should only get better.

C'pete,
The Hella lantern has the tri-light in the prescribed separations: green - red - and white stern running light - with a seen from dead ahead separation of the red and green. A slight blank space.

It also has, SEPARATE from the tri-color combo, an ALL ROUND WHITE, on top of the combo. It is a separate light but in the same lantern. This light would NEVER be turned on while the tri-color was being used. And viceversa.

Being an all round light, and UNABSTRUCTED by mast or sails,
I have seen, have downloaded, diagrams like yours above here that show this all round white (USCG Regs) USED AS A STEAMING LIGHT ON A SAILBOAT (but with sails not rigged) when the motor is running.
Imco it would be 'more' legal' than a half mast steaming light that would have 1/3, at least. of the all round requirement obstructed by the mast it is mounted on.
And in a twilight ballet of getting the boat into its berth without running into something, no reg could possibly care if the rags are up or furled. Never know, tho.

Your series of graphics don't show this. And since the tri-color option is relatively new (what, 20 years by now?) the Coast Guard may not have their diagrams up to date. Besides the all round white steaming/anchor light may be stuck in some internal committee and is left in its fuzzy status for decades to come.


Perhaps by sailor use the added FOURTH light on the masthead of a sailboat will become written into regulation. It seems to be allowed by inference and some 'quasi-official' diagrams.

The all round white is already wired on some lanterns as a STROBE light. On the highseas, day or night, with an approaching freighter, switching the strobe on to get attention might save your and your boat's butt.
Regs might someday be rewritten to include emergency scenarios like this as emergencies. Using the strobe to get the attention on the bridge of a cargo freighter. Fat Chance! Radio contact with the freighter would call off any rescue effort or USCG notification that assitence was not needed. If that is the case.

The all round anchor light from a practical aspect has to be stacked on the masthead above or below the tricolor if we have one. Cruisers forums often mention that they can recognize their boat at night - when away from it - by their all round led.
This anchor light can also be found with a PV Sunset On/Sunrise Off feature.

I think the problem with using an anchor light/tricolor combination is that the regulations require at least one meter vertical seperation between the all-around white light above the red/green sidelights.

You might be able to use the anchor light as a steaming light with red/green deck lights, but only if you block out the stern deck light. Otherwise a boat approaching from behind will see two white lights "white over white"

C'pete, I finally see what you are getting at.

Any boat with an all round white light ON and not anchored is a boat under power.
Any boat under power with an all round white steaming light will not have its STERN light on.
But any boat will have its port and starboard lights on.
That means, in effect, that the masthead tri-color cannot be on.... Because the tri lights cannot be turned on and off separately.
Because when steaming with an all round white light, the white stern light part of the trilight cannot be on at the same time.

But I can see that in a sailboat not switched correctly that the tri-color and the all round white could be on at the same time. And that would cause confusion for the observer.

That's why a sailboat our size should have separate port and starboard and stern light at deck level.
Cruising or offshore I would definitely include the tri-light and the all round white
anchor light.

[It's a whole other dual fixture, but I know I've seen an all led steaming light and amp-eating deck light combo that is mounted at spreader height. Personally this is an excellent idea. And if attracting attention at sea these lights are perfect.
However, for picky regs I don't see how cutting a major portion of the steaming light by mounting it on the front of the mast makes it legal.
But do see that the mast will create a beneficial shadow for the poor guy in the cockpit.]

Also, I don't recall seeing a halfmast steaming light shown in any required nav light diagram.
Conceivably it is less legal than a tri-light with an all round anchor/steaming light.


Just to make things difficult: I have a diagram here that shows a white MASTHEAD steaming light that has a wedge blacked out on the aft side that corresponds exactly with the stern light wedge shaped light down on the DECK LEVEL. Also the red/green side lights are on.
Thus, you'd have your three normal deck level lights with a three sided white masthead steaming light.
This evidently conforms exactly to USCG rules for a sailboat under power.


BUT, a masthead 360 white light IS also Regulation for steaming under power.....
Have the diagram to prove it.
THAT IS IF YOU TURN OFF THE DECK LEVEL STERN LIGHT AND keep your sidelights on.
That seems simple enough.
As a bonus you get an allround anchor light when the side lights are off.

Whewww!

The power draw of the steaming light is not much of a concern, if your engine has a charger.

I don't think powerboats are really looking for lights up off the water. I look for masthead lights, and I see them frequently, although the light usually turns out to be a plane, helicopter, star, tower or something :)

You can even mistake a traffic light on land for another boat :)

By the way, I called Sea Dog about their new LED lights C-147 mentioned above. The guy wasn't familiar with the product but eventually told me they don't make an LED stern light. I haven't been able to find this line of products for sale anywhere yet.

C'pete,
Thanks for keeping the discussion going.

Did get on to
www.sea-dog.com
new items
where we find a selection of stamped 304 LEDs nav lights:

pair of horizontal mount port and starboard lights (400035)
a combo horizontal mount bow light (400050-1)

a rectangular vertical mount transom light (400065-1)
Here's the STERN LIGHT. But design is different.

a pair of vertical mount side lights (400080).

AND they also have a couple of interesting telescoping all round white fixtures
one is 24"/48". The other 34"/60" (400016-1). (Assume these are small powerboat allround whites - but if it is appropriate for us either one could be mounted in the pushpit line of stanchions, almost out of the way and ready to be extended for steaming.)

These are all 2nm Colreg and LED.
BUT, we don't find any data sheets, instructions, nothing, on these fixtures
So we don't know about any warranty
or EMI they might be emiting.
Would be nice to know if you use a handheld VHF.

They don't have any mast mounted stuff.
__________________________________________________ _______________________________
I've read where boats these days get robbed of their pricey LED lights.

In the McMasterCarr catalog you can find 18-8 tamper-resistant machine screws. 'Pin in head' Torx have a post in the middle so a regular torx driver cannot be inserted. And a spanner head which has two small separated holes that also requires a special bit. Page 3056 for the screws. Page 2821 for the screw drivers and Page 2810/11 for 1/4" hex shank bits for these special screws. The Torx would be my choice.
And the Torx pin-in-head hollow head bit is not likely to be found in any jerk's Leatherman.

CPete and Ebb

I also called Sea Dog to inquire about the stern light. I'm not sure why but most LED nav light manufacturers seem to be quick to come out with a red/green version but forget completely about the white. Which also seems to be the case here. It may be that white light from LEDs is harder to produce and it may somewhat inhibit the design process.

At any rate the guy I talked to said he would at least get the ball rolling with his engineering dept. to see if they could come up with a solution.

Ebb there is a tech services guy named Mark Barnhart that may be able to give you an answer on the EMI emission radius on the units. His e-mail address is

'techserv@sea-dog.com'

continued from post #71
In that post I conjectured that the P.S. tests were slightly skewerd because they left out a major nav light manufacturer HELLA.
They left out AQUASIGNAL also!!!

I was cruising around the net trying for the last time to find somebody else horning in on the lucrative led navlight market. On the whimsical Jametown site they have a video box where we can view an equally uninformative guy at a boat show changing out the old quart sized AguaSignal incandescent masthead fixture for a spiffy led replacement.... He kind of waggles the old one out and shoves the new one into the same old base! Cool! But he doesn't identify the bright new shorty. Naturally we can't find the fixture in the scramble of nav lights in Jamestown's online catalog pages. They don't sell it !
Anyway, it is the S-32 Tri-Anchor. Shipstore has it for $645,77. But you can shell out $450/460 at pyacht if you have to have one. Hope it comes WITH a base! I'm tired of looking for prices.
The matching series side lights are in the $80 range.

OK, don't you think this is strange
that Practical Sailor also did NOT include this tri-color in its Feb 2010 comparison ratings.
But they did use "for comparison purposes" the 25w AquaSignal incandescent.....yeah,
it would be hard to ignore a nav light manufacturer that's been in business since 1868!
So why in hell is AquaSignal's led tri-color light NOT included?
Well maybe it's because it has a FOURTH all round white light on it!
And P.S. wasn't interested in THAT function.
OR interested in informing their readers (who like me want ALL the information they can get right now!) that that function was even available! BAH, HUMBUG.

google> agua signal Corporation
www. aguasignal.info/ecat/htdocs/index.php?id=209
(I'm going to assume that address won't come up, so try to type into google the title just as I have it. (Home Page - Support - FAQ.)
It is Q&A page where AquaSignal nureyevs all over itself telling us what and what not to do with their old masthead lanterns, nav lights and bulbs.
For us poor sods updating AquaSignal incandescent to led.

Think I'm putting this recent Practical Sailor test into the same category as their infamous marina ooze anchor test of years ago. Their credibility for me is walking the plank.
We assume that P.S. (our only marine product, no advert, testing source) has our interests foremost. Nav lights are of utmost importance and every aspect of what is in the market should be revealed by P.S. Afterall they are doing the 'scientific' study and collecting the data for us. We assume that P.S. is testing ALL COLREG APPROVED nav lights when we study their test results in the magazine. We aren't served by P.S. ignoring without comment manufacturers with long standing reputations. Or pretending that certain available options/features like the all round aren't of importance or interest.:rolleyes:

2/26/10
Darrell Nicholson, the editor of P.S., called me this morning to scold me for an offensive sentence I have now deleted from a post above. In my defense I said it in jest. Most of the time it's obvious that their testing is without favor to one product. It's a tough sell. Especially single, new on the market non-comparison product reviews.
On his March 2010 'Rhumb Lines' editorial page he talks about blog posts, "Who's Lurking Behind Those Blog Posts?".
Last paragraph reads:
"Thankfully, Practical Sailor is not in the business of selling anything except what you have in your hand: reliable, forthright information based on independent, objective research and testing. We have no other interest than to provide our readers with the best available information on a wide rage of sailboats and sailing related products. If what you need is not in this month's issue, we've got it in our files, or we know where to find it. No need to wander the web, or wonder who to trust. Just email me at practicalsailor@belvoirpubs.com - or log on to www.practical-sailor.com, and you'll get a straight answer. But watch out for that diesel engine in the galley."
So P.S. is very sensitive to people like me who think they are legitimately looking deeper into whatever number of products tested in this tricolor case, and 'wandering the web' to do it. Sensistive to testing methods which should have some forthright reader review at times. Sensitive to just plain jerks and trouble-makers.
Darrell suggested I log on to his blog next time I had an issue, insidepracticalsailor.com.
He briefly explained the lengthy testing procedure and gathering of products to be tested: six months or more. The Hella omission and the AquaSignal omission were both because they were NOT on the market a half a year or more ago. Something maybe we couldn't know.
Told him I thought the editor should have mentioned these at the end of the test article before publication - and that another test/review was planned. ASAP.
I don't know what he told me about the allround whitelight omission. It bothers me that they without explanation did not review tricolors with allround lights. How can that just be ignored?

What does he mean about the "diesel engine in the galley"? Maybe he's refering to out of round, old fart curmudgeons like me. Bull in a china cabinet?

Still what we have in their expensive mag is what we see and read there.
But we should cut them some slack.
We have to take them at their word.

Understand that if we do get a comparison and a review of the absent led tricolors (AND ANCHOR LIGHTs) it will be at least 6 months from now.

You, wicked, wicked man, you Ebb! ;)

I seems we are moving this thread in the direction of LED navigation lights again. So I'm gonna throw out the the fine, So. Pac. folks at www.bebi-electronics.com. You can't build a boat and then buy a masthead tri-color! That just wouldn't seem right...

Ebb we all know how thorough your research is, you don't have to take any c*&p from PS!

Tony,
Darrell mentioned something conversationally about the reliability of led lamp replacement in incandescent lanterns. I'm a fan of Bebi, everything we hear is great about them, providing work for local Fijians, making products that people seem to like - and even getting an award as Exporter of the Year from the Fiji gov't.

I don't see that they assemble side lights or tri-colors with anchor lanterns.
Reading their material makes me think you retro their led's into existing housings.
Would be great if an independent tester could run their upgrades through a virtual procedure. They could direct water for a certain number of minutes in various spray patterns at test lanterns with a garden hose. Dunk them for a hour in a bucket of saltwater. Stuff like that. Kidding, OK?

I certainly don't know what it takes to rebuild an old lantern and make it virtually waterproof.
And absolutely reliable.

Color fotos on the site show decidedly blue starboard lenses. I believe the future in led nav lights is in colored semi-conductors, in true color light rather than colored lenses. I've read that putting an led behind a plastic lens reduces the led lumens by up to 90%. Don't know, but I would keep that in mind when retro-iing.
Again I don't know where Bebi is on this. Maybe somebody knows?
__________________________________________________ ________________________________________
www.cruisersforum.com cursor DiscussionBoard - scroll to VendorsForum - cursor on pg 3 to Bebi LED lights
google> Bebi LED lights - Cruisers and Sailing Forums
Here you will find a more techy talk on Bebi lights from Michael Homsany, one of the directors at Bebi. focusing on the many types of led light coming on market. Looks like the series of posts is from 2008. Given that it is 2010 and LED's are galloping along this may be outdated somewhat - I wouldn't know I don't understand it anyway..

Tony, Tim......
Muchachos!
Manos!

We must continue the fight against complacency until our bandoliers are empty!

Pancho Villa's famous? last words:
"Don't let it end this way.
Tell them I said something."

He must have said that en espanol of course
and he wasn't a dada poet,
but it does seem, given the significance of the situation,
that saying something was better than saying nothing.

I feel the same, that's my stand.

I received the replacement stern light from J M Reineck today. It is an exact duplicate to the original with interchangeable parts with one exception. It is not chrome plated. Since I am having a bunch of parts chrome plated I think I will have the old winged part chrome plated again (it is a smoother casting than the new) so if you want the new winged tip top portion (raw bronze) and it will make your stern light complete again it is yours for the cost of the UPS.

Thanks Jerry, very kind of you.

I will give you my stern light, if you must have her. For she has been a good light, and still burns brightly, although wounded and neglected. I can not make such choices under this kind of pressure. I am not thinking clearly, as should be quite obvious. I have pondered this momentous decision of which stern light is right for me for only a short time now, perhaps only a year or two, which is hardly enough time. I am now undergoing a mental crisis, provoked by you, perhaps unwittingly. I don't know, it is not for me to question your motives. All I know is, there appears to be a man with a chroming cart driving down your street (if he has not come and gone already) and the chroming man is collecting pieces of hardware and promising to return these same pieces all shiny and new. And you are offering to buy my stern light a new party dress, which she will never get from me, that's for sure. I have fallen out of love with my stern light as I have confessed to you all, in these very pages. I have been casting my lecherous gaze around trying to find some cheap replacement. I have tried to kill this light on two occasions already and toss her in the drink, but she held on stubbornly dangling by a wire or two. And how do I reward such loyalty? I give her nothing. For I have nothing left to give, except perhaps a new lease on life with a better owner than me, who might appreciate her virtues and solid build. I will send you this light that has served me so well and warded off SeaRays and Bayliners and all my other enemies for so long. For, as you can see, I am not a well man. And you should now have two lights now and keep one upon the shelf in case of emergency or to dole out to some other eager boat owner in need. She is a good light, a lucky light, and might bring some joy into someone elses empty life. It is not for me to judge. And I must admit Jerry (if that is your real name) that it is not your fault that I have finally gone around the bend and off the deep end, It was another man this mornig who has made me crazy, and the weapon he chose was an Ice Cream Truck playing a happy jingle, in APRIL!! I saw him in my rear-view mirror following me around. That is just not right, you must agree. And, in reality. I have made myself crazy. I have not felt the sensation of floating (not even in a hot tub) for four looooong months. And I have not even visited my boat. But, I have it on good authority that she still stands upright, despite my neflect. I will go visit her and confess my sins and seek forgiveness. But I will promise her NOTHING. This year, I think, I will just kick her shapely ass to the curb and plop her in the water, where she belong, as do I. You see Jerry (may I call you Jerry?) I know in my heart that I am just a clumsy boat-butcher and don't deserve such a fine vehicle. This year I lack any enthusiasm it seems, my enthusiasm (if I ever had any) is not unlimited it appears. I can not even muster the strength to welcome our new members and compliment their fine work. They are just trying to make me feel even more guilty. So, I will give you my stern light, if you insist, and pass the torch, or baton, or flaming baton, to you. And I will send you a message, in private, so that we may talk, in secret, as men. And perhaps you can assure me that it will all be better soon, once I am floating again, my troubled mind will be healed. But, if you choose to ignore my message asking for your address I will understand, you just don't want me to know where you live. That is all.

Commanderpete - It seems you've got severe 'landlocked syndrome' symptoms...
You MUST get out on the water and go far a sail immediately!

Yes, yes, young Rico, the cure for my present ailments is quite clear, at least to me.

But navigation lights is a very important subject. I keep mine burning day and night as protection from my enemies, of which there are many, as I have told you.

Pretty soon I will feel better and can go back to my usual form of insanity, which includes attaching a photo or two with every post

I know exactly how you feel. While I live in Florida where fall, winter and spring are our prime sailing seasons I have not been out anywhere near as much as I usually require to avoid the withdrawal shakes. :)

We have had the coldest winter here since 1977 and to top it off my boat is stuck on the hard. If not for true friends Dave, Tim and Tom who take me sailing I would be in an institution right now. As a matter of fact I just came back from Charlotte Harbor where Tim had me crew on is new to him as of today Tartan 3000. I feel so much better after having gone sailing today, and so will you but as Rico says you need to do it now, don't waste any time, run don't walk to the nearest sailboat and go sailing. :D:D

BTW I will reply to your e-mail as soon as I post this.

Very good. Message received and understood.

It helps to talk about these things. I think just a sniff of varnish would be good too.

Maybe I'm not being chased and followed around by enemies after all.


http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/a...1&d=1260023146

CommanderPete;

I am sufferng from the same disease as I look out at Commander No 287 in the front corner of the yard. It was a lucky thing that she was there instead of closer to the house...
See http://www.flickr.com/photos/jhg2/se...7623535053242/

I have however gotten as far as making up a new mooring rode...So there is progress.

John

I bought a new stern light for my commander of which I only plan to use the base and the new glass dome from. I will be using my old top piece and plan to have it rechromed.

So I have the new top piece I purchased, my old base and cracked glass dome, and Commander Pete sent me his old base and top piece to offer to anyone that needs it also. The glass dome can be purchased new for either of these old lights. I should also mention that both of the old bases need a new socket installed in them.

All I have left is one of the base sections. Free to anyone that wants it...

I just installed an LED light on my Steaming light fixture. This was the last incandescent bulb I had... I am now completely LED...

It took me a while to get to this bulb as I waited until I had trustworthy help getting up the mast.

I used a 31 mm Festoon with 1 High Power White LED 12VDC Bulb with Pointed Ends as a direct replacement. Plug & play...

After the installation I was surprised at how much light the single LED emits. Of course the single LED is quite big... I have a fairly small steaming light fixture and it uses the small (31mm) festoon bulb - can't fit many LEDs into that space!

I got this Bulb also from Mastlight.com above and it performs quite well. Once again I was initially concerned about the off-center viewing angles asince the LED is the forward facing type. But in practice it works quite nicely with a wide angle of brightness.

$5.00 LIST price

This is probably slightly off-topic, but since this discussion is sticky and it's an obscure part search I'm going to fire away. I am missing this part for my Ariel (see pic). It has a female threaded hole (with an insane thread that is not recognizably metric or standard) and an eye hook on the end of it. Does anyone know what this part is called and/or where I can get a replacement? Even if the thread doesn't match, I will just put a die on the male end of the railing cable and re-cut it. Thanks!

Attachment 6718

Quote:

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Originally Posted by JurisG

This is probably slightly off-topic, but since this discussion is sticky and it's an obscure part search I'm going to fire away. I am missing this part for my Ariel (see pic). It has a female threaded hole (with an insane thread that is not recognizably metric or standard) and an eye hook on the end of it. Does anyone know what this part is called and/or where I can get a replacement? Even if the thread doesn't match, I will just put a die on the male end of the railing cable and re-cut it. Thanks! Attachment 6718

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Stop by your local rig shop and take a look at the life line hardware . . . or check a marine store. That appears to be a "gate eye" and there should be a pelican hook on a section of life line that attaches to it.

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...1&d=1271243857

The bronze stern light cover pictured above that Jerry so graciously offered is available again. It doesn't quite fit MY original glass dome, but you may be able to rework it or find another glass dome to fit. I guess I just need to work on my original stern light to get down to the purty bronze... Thanks Jerry!