copy this to lightning protection thread?
Thanks Al,
Have to be brief, on the run.
Have heard that the brush is bunk. Might have a hard copy so I look for it.
The extreme method I have to contemplate is a solid bronze plate of a certain dimension with SQUARE edges directly under the mast on the outside of the boat with oversized thru bolts with cable going up both sides of the hull - or the doorway in the case of the Ariel - with both directly connected to the mast. This without any bends or as straight as possible. Something like that.
I don't know if there are ANY PROVEN systems to protect a boat from lightning. Whos's to say that the jolt won't knock out a hole in your boat the same size as the plate? Who's to say?
In the Ariel you'ld have to have the plate on one side of the keel. One plate NOT faired in per specs and you would go slower on one tact. Put another on on the other side and go even slower.
Electronics are supposed to be protected if you unplug them and put them in a metal box.
r i g h t !!
(Did you share the strike with others there? Maybe in a marina you can get struck a second time? Remember on a thread here someone saying (Bill?) that clipping battery cables to the upper shrouds at the chainplates and tossing the ends in the water was as good protection as any.)
lightening rod and dissipater connections to ground
pbryant sir, thanks for your splendid reply!
While waiting to see if anyone else was going to post, couple days ago, up here in Sonoma we had some tall dark cumulus move in overhead and produce some loud claps of thunder.
I'm OK with the fuller brush static dissipater that Forespar sells.
You mount it onto your masthead with a couple screws.
However it can't work unless it is grounded. I'm guessing.
Our masts are deckstepped, so we have to create a path for ground.
Some guys talk about using 'welding wire' to make direct bonding connections.
I imagine that from the stem of this electric wick I'd connect it with welding wire to the two shrouds and the two stays. (What's the galvanic corrosion separation between stainless and copper?) The method of attaching the copper to the shafts of the dissipater and the rod is a problem.
I'd have a sharppointed Benji lighting rod that would also be connected in the same way.
Don't believe you can have one without the other.
At the turnbuckles on deck we have another problem.
I thought that a heavy duty alligator-clip battery cable could be attached to the wire above the turnbuckle and tossed overboard into the water. Backstay, forestay, and upper shrouds.
Aligator clips don't make a good connection.
However the static dissipater and the lightning rod aren't going to work unless there is
FOUR SQUARE FEET OF COPPER somewhere on the hull. Right, we need an absolute ground.
Don't know if it has to be 1/4" thick plate, or foil, or copper paint.
SO, can each of the four battery cables be altered so one square foot of copper is attached to the part in the water. I assume it could be a hollow square cube, or a plate, or some copper water pipe, or even a coil of wire? Would that take the place of 4 squares of copper attacted to the hull?
If any version of this seems feasible, can we talk about it? How to do it?
I know it's all conjecture but, specific to the Ariel/Commander, could this 'portable' system be effective at all?
www.kp44.org
Peterson Cutter Wedsite
scroll to the bottom of their Welcome page to their great list of articles and links:
Lightning Protection on Sailboats