Commander #5

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=4647290518

The Pearson Commander is a 26' daysailer/overnighter/weekender designed by noted Naval Architect Carl Alberg. Carl Alberg designed many classic sailboats, including: Pearson Triton, Pearson Ensign, Cape Dory Typhoon, and Alberg 30. Alberg designed boats with full keels, narrow beams and classic looks. And his designs were known for their seaworthiness and well-mannered sailing characteristics. (One Commander was sailed all over the world, and Carl Alberg himself also owned and sailed a Commander.)
The Pearson Commander was produced by Pearson Yachts from the early- to late-1960s, and it is the sistership to the Pearson Ariel (which was also produced during that time). The Commander and Ariel shared the same hull, but the Ariel was orientated more to cruising, with a larger cabin and smaller cockpit, while the Commander emphasized a much bigger cockpit and relatively smaller cabin. In fact the Commander's 9' cockpit is one of its best features because it provides ample room for comfortable daysailing. While basic, the cabin has overnight accommodations for up to 4 people, space for a head (under the v-berth), and a galley sink. The Commander can be viewed as a bigger version of the Pearson Ensign, another classic Alberg design.

This Pearson Commander is a 1964 model and is Hull #5 (yes...Hull #5). It might be the earliest Commander currently in existence. Additionally, it was owned by one family continuously from initial purchase until it was donated to our sailing organization.

This Commander comes with mainsail, genoa, jib, spinnaker and full mooring cover. Auxiliary power is provided by a 7.5 hp Johnson outboard. But it is a vintage boat and is in need of some work. (See "Vehicle Condition" below.)

Pearson boats have a strong ownership communities and the Commander is no exception. More info on Pearson Yachts, Carl Alberg and the Commander is available on the web at:

http://www.pearsonvanguard.homestead...es/comandr.htm

http://pearsoninfo.net/commander/commander.htm

http://www.bway.net/~bogle/commander.html

http://www.alberg30.org/collaborate/PearsonCommander

Additionally, a Google search will probably turn up other sites of interest.

This Vessel was a donation to Planet Hope (www.planethopedc.com), a non-profit organization, to benefit our sailing programs for at-risk youth. It will sold to the highest bidder without reserve.

SPECIFICATIONS
Year: 1964
LOA: 25' 6"
LWL: 18' 5"
Beam: 9'
Draft: 3' 8"
Displacement: 5,100 lbs.
Ballast: 2.700 lbs.

EQUIPMENT
Sails and Rigging:
Mainsail
Genoa
Working Jib
Spinnaker
Spinnaker Pole
Cockpit Winches
Mainsail Winch
Traveller
Standing Rigging

Interior:
V-Berth
Port Berth
Starboard Berth
Head Area under V-Berth
Pump Sink
Folding Table
Full Cushions

Other Equipment:
Johnson 7.5 hp Outboard
Outboard Motor Mount
Mooring Cover
Bow Pulpit

VEHICLE CONDITION
This Pearson Commander actively sailed the Chesapeake Bay for many years and often competed in local races. As mentioned before, she was owned by the same man and his family until her donation to Planet Hope. She has been stored on-land for many years and is now in need of some restoration work.

The hull and bottom look to be in decent condition but she needs new bottom paint. You could opt to paint the hull. Three of the four sails (mainsail, jib and spinnaker) are in good condition and the fourth (genoa) is in average condition. The standing rigging is intact but she will need new running lines. The interior cabin is also intact. The Commander was outfitted with a well in the lazarette for the outboard. This boat has an outboard mount on the stern. You could keep the outboard there or put it back into the well. The outboard has been stored indoors. But it has not been run in some time and you should assume it would need maintenance.

There are four main areas of attention:

Foredeck: This boat has soft spots on the foredeck at the bow area. There are also cracks in the deck where the bow pulpit is attached.

Cockpit Coamings and Tiller: The wooden cockpit coamings are intact but have large lateral cracks and should be reinforced and treated. The tiller has completely deteriorated and needs replacement. Additionally, the metal rubrail is loose along the starboard cockpit side and should be reattached.

Cabin: The cabin cushions are dirty and could benefit from new covers. The current covers have some holes. Also, some of the wood access panels on the cabin floor need some support trim reattached.

Cleaning: Lastly, the boat needs to be cleaned. In fact, the boat is dirtier than the pictures show. (I don't know why that is, but it is.)

There are other dings and scratches from usage that may not show up in the pictures. And you would certainly find other things to work on. For example, the running lights, battery wiring, etc.

In conclusion, this is a 1964 Pearson Commander...perhaps the earliest Commander in existence. And it is interesting to note that this boat was owner by the same person from her purchase in 1964 until her donation last year.

She comes with a nice suite of sails, including spinnaker, outboard, and a full mooring cover. But she is in need of work. You could opt to work on her enough to get her back in the water, or go for a restoration. Either way, she deserves someone who can provide good care.

The Pearson Commander is a classic full-keel daysailer/overnighter/weekender from the draft board of Carl Alberg. With a 9' cockpit, she has lots of space yet still has accommodations for overnights. This boat would be suitable for someone who is looking for a classic and who can provide the care and restoration she needs and deserves. If this does describe you, please do not bid.

All pictures are recent and were taken on May 5, 2006 where the boat is presently located. There are also about 70 pictures for your review posted on the internet at:

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mhunsicker1/my_photos

This inclinometer allows you to calculate angle of heel to within 1/2 a degree.

Add says earliest hull still in existance

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Pears...QQcmdZViewItem

Hello everyone, my name is David and I am the proud new owner of this 1964 Commander Hull #5. I couldn't be happier. I have thoroughly enjoyed reading many of your posts and especially lookin at all those photos of your boats.

Thank you all for all for your pictures and for your enthusiam and appreciation for these great classic Alberg designed-Pearson built boats, which truthfully in part inspired me to buy her. I hope I prove to be worthy to join your ranks as new owner and steward to Hull #5.

A special hello here to commanderpete - hope to meet you someday - really enjoy your posts. Best regards to all, I'll keep you all updated on my progress. - David

Welcome Aboard David!


I was almost afraid when I saw how cheap itr went, that it had gone to be parted out.

Really gald to see you post here, you really did get a great boat.

I would recommend you consider joining the association and buying the manual.

.... oh yea,...... and using the search button.... :D ;) :rolleyes: :p :D ;) :rolleyes: :p

THANK YOU FOR THE WELCOME!! I really feel like the new kid in school here, and it is really nice to be greeted with an instant and friendly welcome. I am still going through all the past posts, gleaning ideas and experiences and advice, and getting a good laugh here too. Love it, and can't get enough! Thanks again for the warm welcome, David

Well done. It'll be nice to see #5 come back to life.

We're always happy to tell people how to fix things.

Much easier than working on our own boats :)

Glad you had got it, I was considering, purchasing it myself and doing the unthinkable, For the price, thats the spinaker pole, the rest is gravy. But thankfully someone else, who has a heart, got her.

Hi everyone, Here's an update on the salvation of Hull #5. Yesterday it was hot, very hot, here in MD. Started the day with the obligatory trip to the hardware store to "tool up" for the day. 75' Hose; check. Spray nozzle; check. 1 gallon Simple Green; check. Chemical Stripper; check. Scrapers, kinves, blades, scrubbing pads, rags, sandpaper; check, check, check. From there, Off to "The Boat"! I have a strange feeling that everything in my life, from now until she is in the water and sailing, will BE "The Boat", my next great cause in life.

Spent the entire day scrubbing and cleaning and stripping the boat stem to stern. She's looking better, but still a long way from good. Among the many other things, her deck drains were clogged and like many others have said before, what one would think would be a ten minute task turned into about an hour and a half of unhooking, investigating, tool improvization and in the end, I felt like the chimp with the stick in hand at the termite mound, poking and proding. Unlike the chimp though, there was no meal to reward my effort, but instead I did finally have a clean deck and free-flowing scuppers. Woo-hoo!

Next, onto cleaning the hull up. Since the deck drains were clogged for (I assume) the past 6 years, and being one of the early commaders with no notches at the stern rail to let the piled up water off, the stagnant, NASTY pool of organic detris and bird droppings had severely stained the decks alongside the coamings. Amazingly, the decks seem solid here, although the winch bases were shot (not cool). The coamings themselves were in sad shape cosmetically, but in spite of the longitudinal splits, the wood itself is still good and solid; a testimony to the builders not skimping on thickness - mine are still in excess of 3/4" thick - beefy compared to my other 30 footer with about a half-inch, they look and feel wimpy compared to the Commander's.

But back to the hull, the overflow from the lakes on the sides had badly stained the topsides with a nice green fungal/mossy green and black. UggH! I put some serious arm and ass into the hand scrubbing at these places and it paid off - the topsides are passing at C-/D+. They will need refinishing of course anyway, but it does leave a much nicer impression on the eye, especially from about 20'.

Figuring that I might get the nastiest work done first and move on to more pleasant things next weekend, I next attacked the brightwork. I used a chemical stripper to get the bulk of the old varnish off, and things went pretty fairly. I have used the strippers before, and I tried to keep things as neat and orderly. I would love to post the before-and-after shots of the companionway and washboards, but I haven't yet figured out how to post them. Will work on it. I'll give another update next weekend. Thanks all for the inspiration and commaradeship.

You young whippersnappers are all get up and go and work work. Brewski's and bow ornaments (Commander Pete can assist you here as well) are absolutely necessary to create the proper work environment. :cool:

Wondered if The wife and I were the only ones to refer to her as "the boat" I imagine it's due to the lack of an appriciable name.

Hi all!

Work continued yesterday on Commander 5. I have just about completed the stripping and sanding of the exterior brightwork. Some instances took up to 6 applications of Strypeze to get all the old varnish off, but underneath the mohogany looks clean and unmolested. The wood rails under the companion hatch guides were particularly dirty and ugly; nearly black with flaking old varnish, but they cleaned up especially nice - the wood looked nearly blonde underneath after the repeated strip and scrape. They seemed to glow and to say "ahhhhh, thank you" to the air and sunlight. The washboards look like new wood, and the tall forward portion of the coamings looks beautiful from a bow angle - looking good. I'll keep you posted. DF

Welcome to the fleet of Commander and Ariel afictionados. In this day an age of throw away everything (thats rapidly comming to an end) these fine ol' boats of charactor, tradition and seaworthiness will never be out of style.To bring back one of these classic glass Pearsons says a lot about somethings. Commander # 105, Njord, Portsmouth, Virginia. Best of sailing to you.

Thank you for the encouraging and kind words Robert. I am trying to work on her every chance I get, but unfortunately my 4th of July weekend plan got eighty-sixed by an unexpected death in the family, and I had to head down to North Carolina for a few days for the funeral.

My original plan had me off work for five full days and all my brightwork sanded and sealed with at least a few coats of varnish before returning to work on Wednesday morning; what actually happened is that I just barely got done stripping the last of the wood this morning and had not even a starter coat of varnish on anything before a storm brewed up this afternoon. So much for my big plans...

I have owned the boat for three weeks now and I am starting to find some of the hidden problems. For one thing, with the boat having been out of the water for some six years now, the wooden rudder is thoroughly dried out and has gaps between the boards as wide as a quarter-inch in some places. I know the wood will swell and close these gaps (to a point), but should I be looking at having it rebuilt if they are that wide? Any advice would be helpful.

I also would like to ask everyone if anyone has a template for the tiller? Mine had fallen completely apart and was in ribbons (when I just snapped it right off the head with a flick of the wrist.) I would like to replace it with an exact factory spec'd tiller. Again all help appreciated.

To sum up my weekly report to you all, Hull #5 is looking respectably aged, but she is beginning to take on the appearance of a boat which is being cared for and under repair - she no longer has that sad dull look of abandonment to her. The work continues and I am already prone to standing there and just gazing at her for a few minutes before getting back in the car and leaving her - with a smile on my face! I only wish I was retired and could work on her every day! Cheers all! David

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Commander#5

I also would like to ask everyone if anyone has a template for the tiller? Mine had fallen completely apart and was in ribbons (when I just snapped it right off the head with a flick of the wrist.) I would like to replace it with an exact factory spec'd tiller.

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The original Pearson tiller is a knee smacker. IMHO, you are better off with one that curves up to clear the legs of those sitting in the cockpit. Also, a higher handle means that when standing you won't raise the tiller fitting off the tiller head and risk bending the tangs. There are a couple of stock tillers sold by West that will work nicely.

Thanks for the reply Bill. I'll check out the stock tillers for a first-season quick-fix, then look into a custom ogee curved tiller for next spring.

Sorry for the confusing write-up - I opened my paragraph to talk about "hidden" problems, but got sidetracked on the rudder issue...which led to the tiller issue...which leads to the next issue...in which somewhere in there I should have mentioned at least one hidden problem. I know I shouldn't be so preoccupied with my writing abilities, but some of you guys are REALLY good (and entertaining!) writers. I mean it! It's not normally very easy to keep my attention and read through all the threads beginning to end, but I can go on reading until midnight and laugh my a** off half the time!

You guys are a lot of fun, and a goldmine of knowledge and experience to a tyro like me. I'm really glad I found this site (and C-005).

Best regards to all of you, and thanks again for all the great replies. Dave

My Commander had sat neglected for some years when I purchased it. There were gaps between the rudder planks that alarmed me also; however, I was told that they would close when the boat was splashed. They did. I would never have believed that those gaps would close. In the yard is a negelected Pearson Vanguard with the same rudder gaps, the owner (husband of wife who owns the boat)has taken the rudder apart. I had suggested to him that the gaps would close, that was two years ago, his boat is still sitting there with the rudder in pieces. On my boat, someone, back when, rebuilt/repaired the area where the rudder attaches to the keel and did a fine job of it. Inspect this area carefully as there have been problems on a few of these boats in the past. I will be replacing the rudder bearings soon. I am also in favor of building/molding a new rudder sometime in the future for my Commander, nothing lasts forever. Rudder failure is a serious event and should be avoided at all costs.

I remember grinding away at rotted wood and filling in with at that time marine tex. then I used a simple 2 part compound after letting the rudder completely dry out.this was called "gluvit" at that time was inexpensive compaired to west system which was somewhat new and unknown to me.in my opinion the area of the hull that is subject to most of the turning or torquing forces is directly in front of the rudder shoe. just think of it --when you turn about you are throwing that fat-ass keel around a single turning point that is supported by a rudder post and shoe-and this has been going on for--well how old are these boats now---All the glass boats that I have seen----all keel types and sizes---seem to have an inexplicable amount of gel coat crazing in this area.and it may not be just surface crazing.especially on a large unbalanced rudder.even household doors act the same way---when people break in to houses----its usually the hinged area that gives way first.

More on the rudder: The rest of the below waterline hull looks like it was painted at the same time as the rudder, but since the rudder is wood as opposed to the rest, all the paint had nearly completely flaked off. It looked like an easy job (in the welcoming shade of the hull) to just help the last of the paint off with a scraper blade. Next I stripped the mottled finish off and sanded down to bare wood. Everything was going great until a small strap (approx 4" long) popped right out of it's recessed pocket! Examining the depression, it was clear that the strap had been held in place by 4 screws or rods which joined it to it's other place directly on the opposite side of the rudder. Looking at the other side, there were likewise no screw or rivet heads atop the strap on that side either. What the..? The other plate was easily popped out summarily.

So tell me boys, do your rudders also have this strap? How should I fix/replace/refasten the straps? And how exactly is the outside (rudder tail) plank attached to the adjoining inner plank? It appears there are pins or dowels which can be seen in the gaps, but then why is the innermost plank attached to the second with the strap? Were the straps a later addition made by the owner? I really need to get some images up to show you what I am referring to.

Finally, what is the best way to refinish the wood rudder now that I have it down to bare wood, which is in remarkably good shape (no rot found)? I have never used the "West System", but is that the proper way to deal with these wood rudders, then paint as usual with bottom paint (primer and topcoat)?

Also curious...Were there any "factory standard" color schemes/combinations for the hull/boot/bottom painting? Any which would especially match the vintage/production period? I know that may sound like a stupid or trivial question, but my tastes in colors/combinations have changed over the years, and so to avoid a lot of expensive and time-eating experimentation, I'd just like to go with a "traditional" or factory "correct" restoration scheme and be done with it.

I don't mean to be nitpicky at all, on the contrary, I'm really just trying to be practical for once. The less time I spend on this stuff (cosmetics), the more time I will have later on to deal with the REAL problems...like my rotten foredecks. I'll be working on them later...right now I am blissfully working away on the finish and brightwork, all the while in total denial of that daunting and inevidible project (the dreaded re-core), and many others as bad or worse I should suspect. With your help, I'll get through these too.

Thanks to all. C-005

There is a very helpful discussion beginning on page 45 in the manual. It deals with removing the rudder from the shaft. The rudder stock drawing on page 170 is also informative as it includes the rudder and locates all the fasteners.

Thanks Bill, I am very interested in getting The Manual. How and where to buy? How much is it?

Commander,
would ream those holes out back to clean green polyester. And fill them with solid epoxy, cabosil and chopped strand. Would then reestablish the recess for the strap/gudgeon and have ready a new one.

You won't be tempted to leave it off because the strap keeps the rudder in place over its seat in the heel fitting. If it goes thru the rudder around the rudder post you need a bendy piece of strap because you have to be able to bend it out of the way if/when you drop your rudder. Would do it with bronze machine bolts, leaving the nuts exposed so you know next time which side to loosen. Bronze nylocs would be nice. S.S. nuts would be ok if you keep your eye on them.

Imco, if your rudder is indeed back to bare wood (and relatively dry), and considering the age of the mahogany, you might consider dousing the rudder with CPES. Many coats. wet on wet. Might think of this as adding back a little life to the wood-fibers. Befor you let the last one set completely*, vigorously scrub with terry towels and solvent back to the wood so it can be immediately primed with an epoxy primer (rated for underwater.) The planks will still be able to move. but now your paint will stick better. Don't cover the rudder with any glass - that is another kettle of fish or can of worms, as the case may be.

Use a magnifying glass to inspect all the metal you can see holding the rudder together. Look hard at that famous spot on the post that lives inside the tube at waterline. Have seen plank rudders on our vintage boats that have extra straps that span the blade planks. But I think they are add-ons because the rudder wood should be able to expand and contract. It's conceivable that a real tight bolted rudder could expand in the water and put a nice curve in the blade - especially our rather thin blades.

A source for ductile copper strip is McMaster Carr.

Just my O pinion. Have fun! :D

*you want to let some of the first coats you put on soak in and set comletely.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Commander#5

Thanks Bill, I am very interested in getting The Manual. How and where to buy? How much is it?

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The information is under the link on the Association home page, "Second Edition Owners Manual."

Hello friends,
Well, I've been silent for a few months, but for a good reason - I've been busy at the boat. Presently I am still working on the interior. True to form, I agonized over the paint colors and layout, and ended up doing my same old signature trial-and-error-takes-4-coats-and-then-some method of coming up with a suitable scheme that was aesthetically pleasing to the eye.

I swore to myself when I started this project that I was NOT going to waste my time and money by OVER thinking and second guessing my every move, but alas, a leopard cannot change his spots. Anyway, the interior is now wrapping up very nicely. I have painted every square inch of it, and also have a few coats of varnish on all the teak after much needed sanding and resealing.
Seems like every floor and settee hatch's sills have popped loose and not one can be trusted to walk or sit on without falling in. I have purposely left all repairs until after I had at least one coat of paint on everything just so I would make myself be more careful when going about the repairs at the risk of messing up two projects at a time. On my first boat, I had to learn the hard lesson that decently finished is for the most part better than "perfect".

I have, however, resigned myself to the fact that I won't be going sailing this year, so my plan now is to take the winter to order and replace the long lead-time items. These include new couchins for the interior, a new custom made tiller, refurbishing the sails (being sent to Sail Care up in PA for thorough reconditioning), and of course the usual new lexans for the portlights (all four are shot).

The boat came with a full size cover, and I will wrap her up tightly in late November I suppose. I hope to have the interior done completely so that I can start to work on the exterior hull next spring. I was originally going to have it professionally sprayed, but I have since seen a few very nice brush jobs using two-part poly. Any recommendations? As always, much thanks to you all for all your inspiration and help. Keep posting your pictures - I really love seeing your success stories! - Dave F

Hello again. I've managed to make it over to the boat several evenings this week. The painting on the interior is going very well now. After some experimentation, I've come up with a scheme that looks great and really highlights the curves. For the coachroof ceilings, I am using Interlux single-part poly Brightside Off White, flattened out 3-to-1 with Brightside Flattener. The reason I opted for a flat finish is because the many imperfections of the glasswork stick out like sore thumbs after my first finish coat with the straight-out-of-the-can gloss. The flat white is still plenty reflective and that is de rigeur for such a small cabin. For the topsides between the ceilings and the longitudinal shelves, I've used a contrasting Brightside Grand Banks Beige. Using both brush and roller, it is amazing what a great satin effect can be had with even my meagre painting skills and these otherwise unforgiving and messy paints. Below the shelves and for the settee horizontals, back to Off White. The forepeak lockers, chain locker, sole flanks, settee verticals, the two cabin bulkheads, cockpit lockers and bilges, were all finished in the flat Grand Banks Beige. For the formica faux-wood surfaces, I took the advice of a few of you and scuffed them up real good and painted them all. Finally, the fold-down table top and the small galley top, I used an unflattened Gloss White. When I reinstall the newly varnished teak, its all going to look great. I can't wait and I really enjoy taking my time and doing a nice job. I can't think of anything else I would rather do - except go sailing! I'll get some pics up soon.

HI, Another weekend gone, another few coats of paint on the interior. She's looking fine. As usual, (whenever you get into your work in a marina) I had a stranger stop to admire my little Commander and ask what I was doing. This time though, he was a true admirer of our little boats, and he said he had a 35' wooden Shields sloop. He gave me a few tips, one of which was to eighty-six the rotted original built-up wood winch pedestals and replace them with some bronze pedestals from Spartan or the like. I rather think that is a good idea, and I notice from some of you-all's pics that pearson went to this arrangement not long after '64 when #5 was built. Any chance anyone knows anybody with a set of those later original metal pedestals from a Commander or Ariel for sale? Please let me know!

The other good tip was that after he saw my interior painted in the Grand Banks Beige, we were talking about the old traditional colors we both liked. When I told him that I had a fondness for Buff colors but was unable to find exactly the right tint, he referred me to Kriby Paints; a small New England company that makes marine paints and has a great Buff color. Anyone heard of these guys or bought from them?

One last question...the metal nose chainplate/tang for the forestay on my boat is badly pitted and could use re-chroming. Is this worthwhile, or am I opening up a can of worms unstepping the mast and having the peice redone? Chances are the rig needs an overhaul too (or at least a good inspection). What kind of problems do we typically have with the rig that I should be aware of? Thanks for your help guys. David on C-005.

David, Please post some photos. This is the "Gallery" forum, not the "Technical" forum :)

David, Try 'Search' top of page here.
Kirby Paint was mentioned by Rester and Goodwin back in March of '05 but nothing substancial. It is a small privately owned company that makes traditional paint that people like, which is reason enough to try them out.

Don't know that 'pitting' is solved by rechroming. To my limited knowledge the stem fitting can wear badly, the holes elongate, but you don't hear of the bronze. corroding. Bristol Bronze will cast you a new one if necessary.

There's a new outfit doing repros that Bill mentioned here but I cannot bring them up with the Search button. And I'm unsure they make stem fittings. See you over on the tech page.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by ebb

There's a new outfit doing repros that Bill mentioned here but I cannot bring them up with the Search button. And I'm unsure they make stem fittings. See you over on the tech page.

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No, they don't make that hardware. Prue Foundry in MA was the place (once upon a time . . .).

The "new outfit" is Historical Arts and Castings. They are producing the hardware that Rostand made for Pearson. In fact, they are using the Rostand name in their advertisments. See the thread "Original Pearson Hardware:"

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...ead.php?t=1269

Keep plugging away there Dave.

Don't think its worthwhile to mess with the stem head fitting. Check if the holes are elongated, as ebb mentioned.

I wouldn't pull the mast either, unless you plan to change the rigging or add lights, etc. Might want to have somebody haul you up to check the spreader brackets for cracks.

Winch bases. Some Commanders had no winches/bases at all. Most had molded fiberglass bases. Page 108 of the Manual shows a drawing with wooden bases. Maybe only the early Commanders had them. Don't think I've seen pictures of any.

Will definitely follow ALL of your suggestions. Unfortunately, this is a bad time of year for me to work on after-work projects. Daylight-savings time just kicked in this past weekend and it is dark before I even leave the office. I have to steal away the odd nice afternoon here and there when I can (as I did today). With the arrival of colder weather also, no mo paintin'/varnishin' unless we get an "indian summer" later on this month. Too bad, because I have finished all the interior repairs and really only have one last touch-up round of painting left.

Good news is the interior teak has really turned out much better than I expected. For some reason, Commander #5 did NOT get the nicest pieces of select grain teak for its interior trim. I had to sand the bejezus out of it and then do a really proper varnish/sand/varnish/sand job on it to coax out any redeeming grain. Royal pain in the a**, but my twisted, hard-headed will of what teak "should" look like was savagely imposed on the junk wood, and now the wood is the talk of the cabin. The bulkheads are insanely jealous, and my sole is in dispair. [sorry, lame pun].

In summation, the last six months have been rough, but worthwhile. I have definitely made up my mind, however, that this is my last "project boat". I'm getting tired of always working on the boat and have never even sailed her. I'm taking a break until after the holidays, and I will hit it hard and finish up the exterior next spring. "Finished" be damned. I'm going to take the advice of the wise cpete and "put her in the water and go sailing." I hope that one day next year I will write you all and tell you that the Cinderella story is complete, but we'll have to wait and see. I'll be posting the "After" pics of the interior this week. Best regards to all - cpete, Robert LeMasters, bill, ebb and all the rest who have seen me through my first 6 months with Commander #5. Her new name will be "Heidi Ann", named after a friend of mine who also happens to be a fine looking scandanavian lass -I think Mr. Alberg would approve - he had an eye for beauty obviously. C5 over and out.