:D
Bill, would you kindly change my forum status from "boatless lurker" to "Ariel Owner". Thank you!
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:D
Bill, would you kindly change my forum status from "boatless lurker" to "Ariel Owner". Thank you!
Here's A414 when we surveyed her... more pics soon!
- Mike
looks GREAT !!! Congrats
Wow, is that the last gal out of the mold? Sweeeeeeeeeet! :D
No, #440 is the last boat. Highest boat number we have seen is #437, which appeared for sale on eBay in July of 2004.Quote:
Originally Posted by willie
Thanks guys! I can't tell you how thrilled I am!
I will be heading up to Belfast, Maine sometime at the end of the month to sail the boat down to Portland with the current owner. He is a very nice fellow who has owned the boat himself for only three years - before that, he and his wife were full-time cruisers in the Caribbean. You can bet I'll be picking his brain all the way down the coast! But, he has obviously taken good care of the boat. Sadly, however, the survey came back with deck problems, so I'm afraid there is a recore job in my near future. :eek:
Now for some more pictures...
Bow shot as I saw her last Fall. The unsuspecting little guy under the boat doesn't realize he's about to be shanghaied and swabbing decks before he knows what happened!
The hatches have veneer tops...
The interior is nice and clean! The wood is in great shape with some nice modifications by PO's, like the companionway steps here...
...and the v-berth.
...with a nifty chain locker.
Another nice touch - these are built inside each of the cockpit lockers to separate the locker contents and the engine compartment.
OH! And check this out! A414 has been repowered with a diesel - a good while ago, but the engine looks to be in good shape and the owner certainly knows his way around diesels. Awfully tight quarters for maintenance work though, and boy, do I have A LOT to learn. Ulp!
The boat looks great and obviously has been loved by PO's.The little Yanmar will surprise you if all is well to start with.Diesels are pretty simple really....keep the oil,air and fuel clean and they have a way of going an going an going!! AND on very little fuel!! Don't forget to check the zincs too. A fine start to Ariel land.Keep the pics coming.
Now that is a Honey
She was worth waiting for.
Ooo! Drool, drool, slobber,slobber.
She does look very nice. Being #414, she's probably still 'warm out of the oven'. Danged near brand new! The modifications look really good too. Very fitting, not out of place. The boom craddle looks like it was conceived by someone with some miles under their keel. It would be fun to take an inagural sail with some Caribbean cruisers. Brain pickin'? You bet!
Gawd, I'd be nervous cutting into such nice looking decks. Is she in well enough shape that you could sail her for the season and decide if there are any other changes you'd like to make so you could do them all at one time?
Maybe you just wanna give her to me... :D
- CP, she was absolutely worth the wait! BTW, have you got pictures of that newly painted mast yet? Or have you been too busy with your new gal?
- "Tony G", that was my reaction when I first saw her too!
- And "thanks" for posting the Uncle Heny's ad David S.!
Now, just to get the boat...
Wow, Mike - She's a beaut! And only 8 hulls later, Katie Marie was born. :D
Good things do come to those who wait!!!
Love those companionway steps, the anchor locker, and the slat-separated cockpit lockers - all things I'll be doing before long.
Also, I see you have the same teak countertop galley organizer Katie had. Yes, "had" - I took it out a little while ago, and am loving the space it freed up. Until I saw your pics, I figured it was an aftermarket thing, but I guess it is an OEM Pearson Ariel piece o' stuff. (Anyone need one?)
Again, Congrats! You'll have a blast sailing her down. :D
Thanks Kurt!
Hey, does Katie Marie have cast aluminum deck hardware instead of the chromed bronze too? If so, I wonder when Pearson decided to cut costs that way. :mad:
After waiting a day because of this, then finally leaving Belfast, Maine in this on Friday we set out. (GPS is a wondrous thing!)
When they began building their yachts . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by mbd
Steaming for twelve hours with prevailing winds on the nose and seeing stuff like this...
..and this.
Then another 8 hours, sailing the last three... A-414 has arrived at her new home in South Portland for the season! Woo hoo!!! :D
Congrats on making it 'home'.....looks GREAT @ the dock !!
WOW! Way to go, Mike! Congrats!!!
I know how you feel - I pat Katie's hull every night as I go to sleep, and dream good seafaring dreams. :D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D
PS - We, too, are members of the cast aluminum deck hardware crowd. Whatever works! :D
The need for better access to the leaking stern tube hurried this project along. As I've never cut a hole in a cockpit before, and because he is such a nice guy, I was able to secure the services of the master himself, Mr. Tim Lackey to install the access hatch.
I bought a Bomar L-Profile Slam Hatch, 16x20 (I think - the picture and dimensions online don't seem to match the hatch), part number Bom-17621-w for $61.99 from Hamilton Marine. It seemed like a good fit for the area and felt and looked as though it had plenty of support.
The cockpit BEFORE...
Tim drilling...
Tim sawing...
And Tim looking rather pleased to be holding a big chunk of my floor in his hands...
For what it's worth, the cockpit floor was solid as a rock and seemed very well put together and supported.
He had a handy little drill bit to center a pilot hole for the pilot hole - if that makes sense. It made for very quick and accurate work of the screw holes. I must get one.
You can see how much easier it will be to get into the bowels of the boat now...
The cockpit AFTER the hatch is installed (with LOTS of butyl sealant)...
Some more pictures of the installed hatch...
Thanks Tim! :D
great access !! Fits in there real nice..looks good.
Great to meet Tim. We are so chary of portraits on this board, it's great to see the man.
But also, this series of photos you have here is just the kind of sharing that is so useful for others to have. It's a perfect addition to an inaccessable part of the boat that others should seriously consider! Let's hope it don't leak.* Too much.
Thanks, guys!
*talking bomar not yer expertise!
[size=2]Looks like a first rate fit!
If I had an inboard, (especially the diesel you have that I would dearly love) I think I should look for this same modification.
Tim Lackey certainly has MUCH more experience then I, but there are two issues I did not see addressed in the install that you might want to think about.
The cockpit is a very wet area, it does not just take water with large breaking waves, but every rain that falls. I did not see (maybe you just left it out) any caulking used to seal the hatch to the deck. Water intrusion past the flange will cause you much heartache down the road.
The other issue was the bare core exposed by the sawing. Should moisture find it's way to this, it could soften the entire cockpit floor in short order. A good example of how to deal with this potential problem can be seen in Kurt's installation of a Hawsepipe aboard #422
Again, Tim Lackey (and others on this board like Mike and... ok most of this board) have more experience then I so they may have other suggestions. I think the project is a great addition to the already great boat you have got a hold of.
:D
[/size]
Craig, good points!
Jeeze, I'm wondering now if I should have asked Tim's permission to post this in case someone comes away from it thinking he's not as thorough and meticulous as he is!
My bad. Yes, I did leave some pictures out. I stupidly was trying to "abbreviate" the process.
We used butyl sealant - LOTS of it! He also counter sunk (?) the screw holes in the fiberglass to allow the sealant to ooze into those recesses and also left it over the screw heads when all was said and done.
As for the exposed core, our main concern of the morning was to get the hatch in so I could get at the stern tube to try and apply a temporary patch. He commented on me "properly" sealing the exposed core in the off-season and in the mean time completely slathered the the core areas with yet more butyl sealant. He used an entire tube.
Here he is with a zealous blob around the lip and slathering the exposed core...
from the pic , I would say your sealant was 'liberally' applied !! Let us know how it all fairs out after some sun,rain and waves.Looks good
A-414 threads merged: Ariel #414 and 414 hatch.
With stern tube, cutlass bearing and propeller shaft repairs behind and hopefully soon forgotten, it's time to get on to more important things!
The cockpit hatch was a timely and vastly worthwhile improvement! I cannot imagine trying to work on the innards below the cockpit without it. If you're thinking about installing one and wondering if it'll be worth it - JUST DO IT!
I can't speak for the water tightness yet, since I have improperly non-bedded hardware all over the deck and coach roof which is undoubtedly the primary source of my water intrusion...
Don't forget the hull to deck joint :D That one can be a major source -- if you get your top rail down.Quote:
Originally Posted by mbd
Ah, yes. Well, after the leak below the waterline was fixed I figured I'd start from the top down. I'll get to the rub rail eventually. :)
Speaking of rub rails, there was a nice rub rail on a beautifully restored Triton going around the Triton list last week - Jim Bissonnette's Triton 557. Never seen this done before, but I like it!
Let's see if I can find it. Yes, here it is...
Mike, thanks for posting some sailing pictures. Its nice to see these boats in the water. She looks great!
Hey! Jim added more pictures to the Triton MIR site too. We've been studying his head/shower, trying to glean information from the pictures. But I didn't find the picture you posted above. What list is that from?
Thanks Tony! They are some nice little boats.
The Yahoo Triton list. He emailed me some offline - beautiful! I can send 'em along off-line if you like...
Winter is here.
"Oh the weather outside is frightful,
but those lines... are so delightful..."
:D :D :D
"E" -- they're much more delightful in the water!
Here's a shamelss plug for the association paraphernalia... Start 'em young and they'll learn to like varnish, sanding and bottom paint. :D
We'll see if it works...
"'Brainwashing children'? Well, no, we prefer to think of it as "pre-adult nautical career guidance"..." :rolleyes: :D
Heeeey, I like the sound of that! :D
Well, we got off easy this Winter and the Spring started off promising. But Mother Nature has a way of evening things out. As a result of the recent monsoons, progress on the recore has been frustratingly slow.
I've been looking at this view of the boat in the side yard waaaaay too much this last month!
The deck hardware is off with just a handful of siezed/broken screws/bolts. I still need to remove the coamings and chain plates - the windows are staying for another project down the road.
I'm still debating on removing the companionway hatch and trim. It'll make painting a lot easier if I do.
The supplies are bought and I'm watching far too many other boats going into the water to wait much longer. In the next couple of weeks, I'm going to take some time off work and go at it with a vengence during the days - the season is just too short.
I'm just a little ahead of you, I have pictures just haven't posted yet (keep forgeting to bring the camera home) I decided to postpone the recore till winter, and just rebed all the deck hardware in the meantime (bedding - drilling a 5/8 hole in the top skin digging out as far back as i can and filling with thickened epoxy, after that I had planned for "Lifecaulk" for a sealant . . . but the river ate 7/8 of my tube.
I was actually able to leave the boat uncovered over night. I must say, the coamings add a LOT to these boats.
I split one of the *&$@# coamings because I pulled at it before I had really broken the butyl's hold. A PO used lots of butyl when reattaching the combings.
Now I need to build shelves in the garage so I can use the workbench...
A less than pristine cockpit and the tools used for removing the coamings...
I'm thinking I'll save the companionway hatch and windows for another season and just paint around the edges the best I can.
I opted to go for a "small" area and just tackle on side deck. Using a circular saw I cut a line up the starboad side deck along the toe rail, then back down along the cabin. Then I divided it into 4 good sized sections by cutting across the other way. I finished the cuts off with a dremel with a metal cutting bit which worked very nicely.
I went after the section I thought had the most problems. Not much delamination here, and it was a real pain to peel off and clean out. I spent the better part of the afternoon chiseling and hacking the not-so-bad core out of the area...
After clearing everything off the decks because of an afternoon thunderstorm, I thought perhaps I should try and hone in on the known bad spots. So, just forward of the section I just did, I made another cut lengthwise to try and just get the area around the chainplates.
Bingo. It was nice to see some bad core. (Did I just say that?) In any event, it was way easier to remove the material for these "sub" sections.
I'm already planning on replacing my chain plates, and looking at these soggy gaping holes in the side deck has me thinking about external chain plates again. Besides three less holes in each side deck, I think they look pretty shippy too. I'll have to hit the "search" button. :D
Take a look at post #60 at: http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...5&page=4&pp=15Quote:
Originally Posted by mbd
Mike
it's a trade-off what holes to spend time and effort sealing up... three holes on each of the side decks or... 9 holes on each side of the hull....
I need to make the same choice next year.
bill
Bill, as posted in another thread, looks like I'm going with the 'stock' setup (though a bit beefier) for the chainplates - though I do really like the idea of the externals, the path of least resistance wins out. Guess I'll just have to wait for you, Ebb, TonyG to do it to see another installation besides Geoff's.
http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/s...9&postcount=57
http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/s...8&postcount=35
Progress is slow on the recore job, but things are getting done. In the meantime, here's the old chainplate (it was flattened out to make the new one), and the new - one after I made the opening on the taff rail larger...
I'm very pleased with the CoreCell. I got the 9mm thick stuff. It's easy to work with and just the right thickness. Here it is dry fit on the starboard side deck.
Here's the ground out deck, including the hole through the lower skin.
Here is the deck with thickened epoxy spread over the hole and stuffed all around the edges where I dug out the balsa core.
And finally, the new core in place and weighted down. First, I wet out the lower skin and applied three fiberglass cloth patches to holes and thin spots, then spread thickened epoxy all over the bottom of the corecell pieces, mashed 'em down, wet out the undersides of the cut out deck pieces, spread thickened epoxy over the tops of the corecell pieces, then pressed everything in place, wiped off the squeezed out epoxy, laid down wax paper and put on the weights.
Next will be more grinding and scarf joints. Maybe 1/3 done. Then I'll have to make everything pretty again - grinding, fairing, grinding, painting... :eek:
Why does no one vacuum bag? You could put around 12 Psi or 1700 Pounds per square foot or al most 7000 lbs of pressure on that little patch you had there. Just need some bag, mastic, breather, & pref, coupled to a vacuum pump of a venturi deal, or in a pinch an onld refer compressor, or any compressor.
Sure think it beats bricks, and jugs.
Mike,
You sure do make your recore project look and sound easy! And neat. You do good work!
I hope you will take time to write a recap to help first timers feel empowered to do it also. Talking about power, it's a fantastic thing to do for the ole gal. Adding years, decades to the life of our fine little boats.
Hints, that first cut, tools you used, materials, and amounts of materials if you kept a record. Any problems, tips, what would you do different next time. :rolleyes:
You know, because somebody right now is going to be inspired by what you've accomplished. :cool:
Let's do a little "got it" test:Quote:
Originally Posted by tha3rdman
some bag - got it? no.
mastic - got it? no.
breather - got it? no.
& pref - got it? no.
a vacuum pump of a venturi deal - got it? no.
an onld refer compressor - got it? no.
or any compressor - got it? no.
bricks - got it? yes.
milk jugs - got it? yes.
Perhaps, but my bricks and jugs are paid for and they work. :DQuote:
Originally Posted by tha3rdman
Thanks Ebb! What is truly empowering is the encouragement and knowledge from the good folks on the forum here and other ether places. This is truly an "if I can do it, anyone can" sort of job. Not fun, but not too terribly difficult either. But, I'm still far from done - and still recovering from that "first cut"... :o
Got it! :D or I get it rather.
BTW: how much does the corecell run a sheet?
Or dreading this winter when they cut into their own . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by ebb
Oh 3rdman... Will I post this before our omnipresent moderator Bill does?
"If you use the 'search' button at the top of the page"...
I got it from Noah's Marine. Here's the link from the Deck Delamination / Core Problems thread.
PS. At the rate I'm going, you'll finish before I do. :rolleyes:
I just took this after removing the weights and right before spilling my beer. I hate this tarp. :eek:
I do wish more expoxy had oozed out of the seams though. Oh well, I'll have some more chances with the port and fore decks...
Thanks! ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by mbd
A busy weekend - grinding. Lots of it.
BTW, when I cut along the coach roof and toe rail, I cut as close to the edges as my circular saw guard would allow. Don't do that. Add maybe a half or an inch or so to that. The thin strip along the edges is difficult to get at with a sander, and impossible to grind at the right angle for a scarf joint. You can still dig the material underneath the edges out and stuff thickened epoxy into the crevices...
And my first ever fiberglass job - phase one.
First, I slathered as much unthickened epoxy into the cracks as I could and wetted out the bare glass. Then I thickened what was left to fill the big gaps. Next I cut some of my 8.7 oz 4" fiberglass tape into 2" strips which I laid on the seams then wet out with unthickened epoxy.
I tried to roll out bubbles and squeegy off the excess before the epoxy gelled and became unworkable - with mediocre results. I got a can of slow hardener last weekend after I almost detonated my first big batch of epoxy, which gave me more time to work, but still, I attempted to do too big of an area at one time...
I would have liked to finish off with 4" strips and cloth to complete the scarf joints, but I ran out of daylight and weekend. Too bad, because the whole chemical vs. mechanical bond deal, but what can you do? Plan better, I guess.
I sure wish I had one of the experts looking over my shoulder! The job leaves much to be desired I'm sure, but at least the deck is getting put together instead of taken apart for a change. Besides, I can always grind it back down and try again, right? :o
Mike -
I've been meaning to post that it sure looks like any 'expert looking' was done from *between* your shoulders, not over them. :) Nice work, she's looking good!!!
Thanks Kurt - I'm currently waiting for the deckwork from last weekend to cure. Almost 4 days and the whole side deck is still tacky! :eek:
I had switched to the slow hardener (West System 206) to give myself more time to work with the epoxy, but the high temps in Maine since Saturday have been barely above 60 and drizzly. I've got four pots that I used for mixing various batches, and none have hardened - and I don't think even I could screw up mixing four different batches! I'm really hoping a nice sunny warm day will harden it up. :o
Ummmm... I've been wrong before, too. :oQuote:
Originally Posted by mbd
So, I'm using West System epoxy (availability, reputation, documentation, marketing :) , etc.) They have this handy "pump system" where the 5:1 ratio of resin and hardener is measured for you - all you have to do is count the number of pumps of resin and hardener. Not so bad. Worked great the first time I tried it. About as idiot-proof as they could make it really.
Well, after finding the epoxy still tacky last night, four days after finishing the job, I began combing through old emails and rereading the West System User guide, trying to figure out what the heck was going on. Then it hit me. 5:1 ratio. 5:1 ratio. Wait a minute! The pumps... The @#!$# pumps! I had actually done it. I had outsmarted the idiot-proof "pump system".
I don't know, I guess I was really preoccupied with other things, like: Am I doing the scarf joints properly? Should I be using the 17oz biax, or the 8 oz cloth now? Have I washed and ground down the previous layer enough? Can I get this done before dark?
And I kept thinking 5:1 ratio, 5:1 ratio. Don't screw it up. So that's what I did: 5 pumps of resin, 1 pump of hardener. Over and over and over again. I did indeed mismeasure every single batch of epoxy I mixed last weekend. ALL of them. The entire day's worth of epoxy and glass and filler on the starboard side deck. What I did in reality, was mix a whole bunch of 25:1 resin goo. :eek:
Needless to say, I'll be learning how to remove and clean up uncured epoxy this weekend...
geesh, Before you go stripping off all that mess, I'd call West Sys, and see if theres and easier way even baking it would be easier then scraping all that crud. I wonder if some time at 140 deg, or so, would cure it.
yea, I'd call them too!
It is not unlikely that misbatched epoxy will go off eventually, just a matter of time. Don't do anything radical yet! Might depend on how far off your part A to your part B was.... Call the product tech! Maybe the set can be speeded up with a heat gun.
Project looks first class!
Instead of the pumps you might try the graduated translucent plastic quart containers that most alternative suppliers have. I get mine from TAP. Ounces and milleliters printed on the straight sided container makes it simple to get the proportions visually.
You go for the amount of epoxy you think you need (in your case) marking off with a sharpie 5 measures plus one measure - whether they're 2 oz each, 1 oz each, 1/2 oz or milliliter multiples. It's no brainer, I make myself mark off the proportions every time I mix a batch: 5 equal spaces to one equal space, whatever the quantity.
(I'm a two to one fan, but the point is you look at, actually thru, the container as you pour Part A up to the 5 part mark -where I've made a longer line with the marker - and then top off with the hardner. This would work especially well if you are using epopxies with differing proportions.
The marker lines wipe off with denatured alcohol, my cleanup solvent of choice. I'll often clean out the container with paper towel/rags and use it again. Depends on the timing. I keep similar 1/2 gal buckets to mix powders into a batch: silica, fairing compound.
I have trouble trusting the pumps. If you keep them in the cans over a period of time, Part A will gum up and the squirts will not be true measure. Also if you have the cans around for awhile you want to screw the cap on. What do you do with the pumps? Toss em? Unless you want to go thru the mess of cleaning them and wasting solvent.)
I tried the heat gun earlier in the week. It thins the mixture when there's not enough hardener to "kick" - which incidentally is the way West suggests removing it. I also tried the heat gun on one of my used mixing pots to see what would happen. It just made it runny.
Ebb, I've got lots of the clear buckets with marked measurements. That's how I started out, but pouring the resin and hardener from the jug and cans was a messy and wasteful affair, and I invested in the pumps.
I also called West with a "hail mary" and took little comfort when he said, "You're not the first to do it." In light of the fact that I used the slow hardener, the temps are hovering around 60 and it hasn't started to cure yet, he said I'd be better off removing the questionable stuff, which I'm inclined to do anyway because we're talking about the structural integrity of my deck.
Ironic. In the software biz, I strive to write "idiot-proof" code 40 hours a week and I've concluded many times over - you just can't save some people from themselves... :o
Hey Mike, Guess you have to make up a proportion code sheet.
Like 72 squirts part A / 14.4 squirts part B = 8 oz
100 squirts pt A / 20 squirts pt B = 12 oz
ETC
Had to find a supplier for empty F-style gallon cans to screw in the pumps. Befor I nixed the pumps. But I got to like the wider mouth cans - you can look down the hole to see what's doin in there.
I buy Part A in 5 gal bombs weighing 600#, it seems -so I have to decant with a funnel into smaller containers. No fun when the big one is full. I got a big mit and find it pretty easy to pick up a rectangular can by its side and tip it into the quart container - laboratory style at eye level one in each hand. Not you? You only need to have it half full, weight wise. Anyway you probably aren't set up for continuous use like 338 is.
Spent an inordinate amount of time last few years with a gallon can in one hand and a quart container in the other. The wider mouth means that the syrupy epoxy pours out rather than BLOB - which indeed can get messy.
Earlier threads point out that 2 to 1 and 1 to 1 epoxies are better to use. And easier to measure. One reason is that they are more tolerant of mistakes because they are essentially the same stuff in each container but one has the hardner. Been said these epoxies are in a premix state already on their way to set. Sometimes indicated by zero induction time. This might have been true yesterday, but today there are 100s of new epoxies!
You're absolutely correct. Personally haven't been saved at least a thousand times! :eek:
I was real close to going with Mike G's FGCI epoxy, got a catalogue and even called and talked to them. But in the end, the ready availability of West won out.Quote:
Originally Posted by ebb
In retrospect, I suppose I'd rather my recore were delayed because I was waiting for a delivery of epoxy... :o
Not so bad really. The 25:1 ratio goo was basically resin and was nowhere close to hardening. I was able to just peel of the fiberglass cloth and biax strips I had laid down, scraped off what I could, then wiped it all down with acetone. I could have been a lot worse...
Lesson learned.
Can get seduced by the local marine convenience store (WM.) Aside from ranting West Systems (Gougeon Bros) for foisting blush epoxies on the inexperienced, they do have packaging down pat. And they're the only act on the shelf. It is also true we are paying for the convenience of having the store down the street: taxes, morgages, salaries, utilities - that game forces the prices of everything up. (WM is a publically owned company and is probably worth more in real estate than inventory. Who knows what they're into. Who owns West Systems, for example? The CEO of WM makes a paltry million and a half a year. Good ole Empire building goin on heare!)
For that little bit of wait you mention, online suppliers offer greater selection and better epoxies at half the price. The site I use sells 'marine' epoxies without the added surcharge. They are often what industry and the military use. The only problem I've found is eclectic containers. And maybe too large quantity. My white tank coating, for instance, requires a gorilla to open the plastic pail part A comes in. Decanting the thick creme into small batches takes invention and patience. What the hell...
At least I'm not married to WM's consumeroid choice. Happy pumping! :D
I know it's on this forum somewhere, but is this your internet site of choice Ebb? (http://www.epoxyproducts.com/)Quote:
Originally Posted by ebb
I'm sure I'm not alone when I say your well considered and thought out opinions weigh heavily when it comes to boat related decisions. You should work out deals with the companies you buy from and get royalties when a new customer says "Ebb sent me."... :D
As for the re-recore progress: Saturday AM I rewiped the deck, then did some self appointed penance and reground the whole side deck to make sure no trace of my stupidity remained.
Here's the latest picture. (Remarkably similar to a previous one I know - at least it's from a different perspective. :o ) But, I did manage a little happy pumping (and all of the batches hardened nicely) when I filled the forward stanchion holes with soaked biax and plenty of properly mixed and thickened epoxy, before Earnest made me relplace the tarp...
Absolutely Gorgeous.
It's definitely art.
Those mysterious symbols....
Interesting you've kept your core material
a complete secret.
The recored, re-glassed starboard side deck.
More details and pictures ad nauseam on "the blog"...
PS. Ebb, I'm using Corecell for the core material - shown earlier in this thread (#66).
Mike
looks good, glad it set up for you on the second try. while I haven't had to start over with a mix problem, I have hit both extremes of tempurature problems (too thick a layup schedule = a small fire) and ('glassing in the snow without a heat gun = a big mess).
hope you don't encounter these two event first hand ...
cheers,
bill
;)
This time, instead of sawing up the whole side deck, I'm going to try and minimize the sawing (and thus the grinding!) this time around...
This arrived Monday and has been sitting in my office. I finally brought it home last night. After work today, I just had to see how it would look - plus, I wanted to make sure the measurements weren't off.
Mike
that's a nice looking stern rail. who was your vendor?
Bill
After doing some checking around, I finally decided on Tops in Quality. Nobody could match or come close to their price, and a number of others have recommended them as well. (I'll be happy to fill in the gory details if anyone wants them.)
I had them add an arch, which they did for an additional $25. Here's a snippet of an email to them:
I don't know that they actually read the emails, but when all was said and done, I'm pretty pleased. :DQuote:
Additional considerations:
1. Please make it look as much like the attached picture of Sirocco as possible (i.e. slight arch/bend going up to AND over taff rail - following the lines of the transom)
How to say? An attention to detail that turns a plain guard rail into elegant, eye-pleasing sensation! :D
I see from your post that you wanted the rail to look like Sirocco's. I am now the very, very proud owner of Sirocco. Too bad neither one of my modeling ex-wives never looked as good as her LOL :D :eek:
Yes indeed, imitation is the highest form of flattery. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by joe
Congrats again on your new boat!
Got the port side deck gutted and recored. Same process as before, yadda yadda yadda...
You can see where an expoxy plug was done under one of the stanchion bases. I didn't even take pictures post grinding, etc. I'm just ready to be done.