That looks like a lot of flat-bottomed skiffs used for crabbing on the Chesapeake.
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That looks like a lot of flat-bottomed skiffs used for crabbing on the Chesapeake.
I think my "new" dingy was an old fishing rental skiff. It's got to have been built, my guess, in the 40's or 50's. The skiff's flat bottom makes it easy getting into the Ariel while out on the mooring. Brockway skiffs were built nearby in Connecticut for many years. I'm not sure if this is a Brockway.
Here we are back at the dock for the winter.
I started working on the deck issues over the past summer, mostly on the un-cored areas around the lazarette. But now I need to get tackling on the cored areas damaged by the dearly departed lifeline stanchions and bow pulpit. The "crude" marine plywood patches I chaulked down on the deck worked well, keeping the boat dry below. So now off we go with the balsa core, fiberglass and low temperature setting epoxy.......
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/DSCF2077.jpg
Ben, Could you please send me the measurements of the winch blocks that you rebuilt. Specifically the top and bottom, and inside and outside measurements because during deconstruction of Commander 5 the winch blocks were badly deteriorated. It would be greatly appreciated! Take a look at the latest postings for Commander #5. Its getting really ugly.
Paul,
Next time I'm up at City Island I'll measure the winch blocks on Noesis. I'm not sure it will be too helpful because your Commander has it's winches in a different place than my Ariel.
I remember making the tops of the winch blocks a half inch larger in radius than the bases of the winches. And that the tops of the blocks lie a half inch below the tops of the coamings. The winch base tops are perpendicular to the coamings. You might be able to figure the size of the winch base bottoms by looking for old marks on your boat's deck. The blocks taper vertically on their curved side only a few degrees (7° maybe?).
Good luck,
Ben
Paul, a quick search using "winch base" turns up 30 threads in which this was discussed. What you're looking for may be in there somewhere . . .Quote:
Originally Posted by paulsproesser
Getting ready for this upcoming season's Wednesday night races with the Ariel. I found this vintage (1960's) yacht timer at this little antique store on City Island run by a 91 year old gentleman named Cappy. The Swiss maker Gallet made some nice timepieces. This one is nothing fancy but feels good in the hand, runs nice and very reasonable in price.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/IMG_8460.jpg
The warmer temperatures of the past few days allowed me to epoxy the two gaping holes in my deck that I covered up last season with plywood and marine caulk. Noesis' deck is going to look pretty spiffy very soon.
My two "invasive species" mute swan friends keep me company up at City Island while I'm working on Noesis. They like drinking the fresh rain water that accumulates in the dingies.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...nsandboats.jpg
A blast of cold temperature weather, 30° high, hit City Island today. I decided to take the risk and deploy the warmed at room temperature West 105 / 205 epoxy and glass cloth to complete the outer shell of the bow deck repair, devil may care. In the aid of my endeavor a 250w heat lamp bulb was purchased and clamped to the forestay which in conjunction with a day of bright sunshine set up and harden the epoxy mix.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/DSCF2188.jpg
Ben
You are not the only one using a heat lamp to cure epoxy. I was tabbing in the lower half of the new bulk heads last night after work and decided since it was likely to get down into the 40's over night that I would turn the heat lamps on it to keep it toasty warm for curing.
Still need to tab in the upper portion which I will do that tonight hopefully.
Jerry, your mast support bulkhead looks really great. I admire all the effort and engineering that you've put into it.
Ben
Thanks Ben
Having seen some of your work I would expect the same from you. I've been impressed with the work you have done and I believe I have only seen a small portion of what you are capable of. These good old boats deserve the best from us which is what we expect from them. Sail on !!! :) _/)~~~_/)~~~_/)
Spoke too soon about being finished cutting into the Ariel's deck. I opened up two areas that felt soft behind my "gaping" hole bow repair. The balsa core in each of these areas was intact and in fresh condition but had delaminated from the deck skin. Oh well, it doesn't seem a very big deal anymore to cut into the deck and do these type of repairs. Hope to finished with the epoxy tomorrow and move on to fairing, sanding and painting in the coming weeks.
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u...r/DSCF2192.jpg
Ben
Have you made a decision on how you will handle the non-skid? This is the product I plan to use. It has some good reviews and I think it will look more original than some of the other options.
http://www.kiwigrip.com/
Tim Lackey used Kiwigrip on a CD 25d here: http://www.lackeysailing.com/surpris...010/112910.htm
I had him mix Interlux Interdeck beige and white for my non-skid and have been very please with the results.