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Parts for new cockpit scupper drains
The saw zaw made efficient work of removing the original glassed in fiberglass drain ports for the port and starboard cockpit drains. A while back I also removed the fiberglass drain port for the galley sink and properly restored the hull.
Here's the majority of the parts I have assembled for the new cockpit drains that will incorporate seacocks. It took some time today, but I got the 3/4 inch thick, G-10 garolite backing plates milled. Still have a little more work to do on them, scheduled for tomorrow.
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New bulkheads in place and surrounding berths restored
Here's a little snap shot of the new bulkheads I installed. Notice that I integrated the web knees that are normally found on Commanders. I have been using solely Okume marine ply for the reconstruction. Those with a close eye for detail may spot a few other things I have done, but have not photo shared as of yet.
Good day.
Bill of materials for my new cockpit thru hull renovation
For those that may be interested and specifically for Joe who asked, here you go:
Price (each): Qty: Part #: Nomenclature: Source:
$2.87 8 502674 1-1/4 to 2-1/4 AWAB hose clamp DefenderMarine
$5.85 1 AWA-125015P Rubber Tail Tips (Bag) Jamestown Dist.
$11.64 1 MMM-05260 3M 4200 Fast Cure 3 oz. Jamestown Dist.
$83.90 1 SHI-2521124 ShieldsAUST 1-1/2"X12-1/2' Jamestown Dist.
$68.76 1 8667K221 G-10 Garolite, 3/4", 12"X12" McMaster-Carr
$62.99 2 GRO-IBV-1500 Ball Valve, BRZ 1.5" Full Flow Hamilton Marine
$.50 6 112339 Hex Nut, Bronze, 5/16" Hamilton Marine
$.50 6 113696 Flat Washer, Bronze 5/16" Hamilton Marine
$.25 6 113782 Lock Washer, Bronze 5/15" Hamilton Marine
$1.33 6 111353 Machine Screw, Bronze FH Hamilton Marine
$14.99 2 GRO-PTH-1500 Adapter, Pipe to Hose 1.5" Hamilton Marine
$22.99 2 MTL-44-167 Elbow, Street 1-1/2", BRZ Hamilton Marine
$42.99 2 GRO-IBVF-1500 Flange Adapter Base, 1.50" Hamilton Marine
$31.99 1 GRO-TH-1500-L Thru HUll 1-1/2", W/O Nut Hamilton Marine
$40.99 1 GRO-TH-1500-W Thru Hull 1-1/2", With Nut Hamilton Marine
Note: Prices above are for "each" and do not include shipping / handling fees from each supplier.
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Cockpit thru-hull backing plates permanently installed
A bit more progress made:
backing out with Lanocote
Chance,
Option 1) and 2) in the above post seems the most shippy
if take apart is more important than aggressive sealing and gluing.
Bronze takes epoxy pretty well
so gluing the studs in, imco, they'll never be backed out even with the most nasty pair of visegrips!
Was thinking how to keep aggressive sealants away from the thru-hull.
But maybe for you that's not necessary.
Still, to remove the adapter in the future, the thru-hull will have to be backed out.
I've been convinced that the thru-hull should seat into
the adapter or seacock with teflon tape. Squeeze-out from the adapter flange sealant might be a problem.
Could install the adapter - then after the rubberseal is set
cut away any squeeze out inside the thru-hull hole from outside. Problematic.
Especially with viscous sealants. Cowards like me use butyl tape.
Don't recall what the pundits say about using Lanocote on the underwater NPS threads of a thru-hull? But given its rep, it might work well.
And you could load the thru-hull top to bottom with the grease - any squeeze out of THIS stuff will lubricate the valve ball!
Just being a trouble-maker!:D
I've been getting the wood pieces together for the dropboard framing and thresh-hold around the companionway. Also a new lexan sliding hatch.
Have successfully embedded bronze nuts with epoxy into some pieces that I didn't want thru-bolted. The idea is to allow assembly and later dis-assembly from one side.
To keep the all important nut threads from getting epoxy in them
I brushed a little Lanocote on the machine screws used for the mock-up and let the embedded nuts set. Just the nuts embedded not the whole hole or the screws.
Then backed out the bolts.
Any overage of epoxy in a hole with a nut is also 'tapped'.
This method also lines up the male and female parts making for a smooth match up every time. The bolts back right out no problem - a little tight at first.