Thanks. That was a concern I had as well, but without the boat here yet to climb on, I was going by failing memory. Gotta say Ebb....everytime I go to your pages (often) I get inspired. You set the bar for ALL that follow.
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Thanks. That was a concern I had as well, but without the boat here yet to climb on, I was going by failing memory. Gotta say Ebb....everytime I go to your pages (often) I get inspired. You set the bar for ALL that follow.
Franklin -
My 'cockpit box' goes from the after edge o' the bridgedeck, to just past the forward edge of the cockpit locker. Push the tiller up, and you have great footroom for two, comfy cozy footroom for four. ;)
Not too difficult getting in and out of the cabin because I have a step inside that is right at the height of the bridgedeck, so you aren't stepping In and Down at the same time.This step also makes for convenience/ease when the (1/2 height of companionway) drop board is in.
It makes egress/ingress pretty easy, even when stooped over. Don't have a dodger (yet), but me boom tent is at the height of the eventual dodger, so I get lotsa practice. :)
I understand Craig's point about not having a footwell handy when pressed up under the dodger, but one of the things I really really remember from reading "Dove" for the first time back in the '70's was how RL Graham eventually filled in his *entire* footwell, because he'd been pooped too many times and was extremely worried about foundering because of it. Plus, looking at many classic boats like Serrafyn you'll see they have tiny footwells. I figger this is because when our tippy boats heel, it is as easy to brace against the other coaming as it is the lip of the footwell, so the depth isn't being used too much then. That's my logic, flawed as it may be. :D
The real bummer is that the footwell box is just not quite deep enough to serve as a propane locker for a 20# cylinder. Close, though! Maybe some modification to drop it the inches needed would allow it to qualify as a USCG-approved above-waterline-with-drains-overboard locker. :)
PS - Just noticed that 44 posts ago, I passed my hull #. :D
The trailer is finished.Ended up costing less than one way on shipping.
Well.....ain't she cute hiding in those bushs
Is it a bird...is a plane...no, it's a flying ariel
Well....made it home, all 590 miles.As always..it looked better in the pictures. Gotta love a challenge. Too bad the kids are older, they could have used the decks for a trampoline :) I found it noticeably easier to tow than the flicka. I guess the limit of my V6 was slightly below the flicka and just above an ariel. Both are an overload.
Oh yeah brother, ain't it the truth. Glad you had a safe trip home and the new trailer worked out well.
Were you able to learn any history on the vessel or just another old forgotten boat left at "the yard"!
Any treasures found that are pleasant surprises?;)
Good Luck.
PS, Is that another Ariel under your flying Ariel ( red hull)?
Congrats on getting her home Frank. I have to admit when I looked at those first pics above I thought it was your yard.:eek::eek::eek::eek:;)
Congrats, Frank!
Now begins the part we have all been waiting for...picture pages. And none of this 'before and after' 2-shot stuff. We want daily updates of the minutiae!
First off, where ya gonna put her? Do you have a spot in the family garage? and are you going quit working this summer so the rest of us can live vicariously through you?
Hmm, that's all I can think of right now as I'm supposed to be working but I'll drop a few more questions as they arrise.
P.s. I thought that was your yard too!:D
Some quick notes...
*Should have put "looked WAY WAY WAY batter in the pictures"
*Nope..not an ariel below...but he had a nice Electra to the side.
*no garage...I'll rig a roof out behind a barn to keep the water off and invest in bug spray...lots of bug spray
*As to pics and timeline...we're swamped at work so what I see happening is spuradic bursts as time allows with as much getting done in those shorter periods as I can.I think its on a 3 yr timeline. I will posts pics as I go.Here's the plan
*powerwash decks/inside (mold)
*drill drain holes to let water out and any hidden keel void water
*remove all hardware,windows,teak (whats left of it)
*cut top layer of glass on decks,coachroof,remove core..bla bla.
I think I may have to do this in stages or loose the deck.They
are literally that bad.
*then the fun stuff...gut the inside,open interior etc etc.
I should note the true beauty of this site are the ideas you can steal. You look at others,get inspired and proceed....even if in a different manner with a different result, the inspiration was from here. Thanks Bill
On that note, Is the deck core 3/8th inch? (hope they have volume discounts:))
Couple of other notes. I was surprised and very happy to see a stern rail. #50 didn't have one and it was missed. The $$ saved there will go to coring :). Then, there are 2 nice bronze ports laying below. Won't fit an ariel, but a nice lil find for ?? down the road.
You are a good man, Frank.
And I know you are the right man for the job.
Cliches for sure, but every word shines like gold.
Hope you show us exactly what you do to preserve that messed up deck.
I've fantasized on other projects that the cabin/dog house structure would actually have to be braced so the decks can be recored without worry about the deck changing :eek: camber.
That is if doing it from the top.
littlegull had a 19"X19" piece cut out of the foredeck - the top thickness varies between 5/32" to 13/64" - substantial. [The balsa core is 3/8"]
Some observations:
The INSIDE skin layer of the sandwich varies from 1/32" to 1/16" but building up in some areas to 3/32" [like where it bumps out and encapsulates the mid-plank] - with evidence of at least one layer of glass cloth in the lam. On this boat the inside skin of the deck is too thin, imco.
If I had to do a whole deck recore, and had known how skinny the inner skin was/is, I might do the new core in sections. One section at a time. Maybe be three or four non connecting sections at the same time.
Maybe the foredeck in quarters, sides in two or three sections each. Only cutting into the top, each section, one at a time.
[I don't believe that cutting the deck into small pieces is correct. SEE BELOW.]
BUT I've never seen a deck as bad as Frank describes!
THE WHOLE CABIN TOP ALSO GONE? Ridiculous.
The 'king' plank down the middle of the foredeck on 338 is only 3 7/8" wide fir ply.
It's 3/4", the type that is 3 fat veneers with thin veneers top and bottom - plenty of opportunity for rot to occur. The cut out shows that the ply and the balsa were not isolated.
I've more recently been cutting into the cabin at deck level with the Fein. The glass is quite thick in the turn of the deck to cabin and at corners: 5/16 to 3/8", even thicker in some places.
But as you know the solid glass gives way to balsa core all of a sudden in the camber areas.
Hope it's a piece of cake. Save some slices for us and post a lot of'em.
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For argument's sake:
The deck is a major player in monocoque construction. It is a MAJOR structural component of the boat.
The top of the deck, which is the most substantial strength layer of the deck sandwich, might be ideally removed as a SINGLE piece. The core underneath only adds thickness to cancel flex in the top lamination, and the inside layer of glass is primarily there to protect the core.
So, I believe that it is structurally better to remove large 'panels' rather than small ones. If that's correct, then as in A338, if I wished to recore from the top, I'd really have to support the deck underneath very well. And without too much upward pressure from the support itself.
If I did have to remove small sections and end up with a jigsaw type puzzle then it may be necessary to add permanent beams under the deck because it cannot anymore be considered a single piece structure as originally conceived.
It is pretty obvious that a LOGICAL procedure is to replace the core from underneath/inside. From my perspective, that's impossible and impractical.
Wonder what the boss will do.....?
Gotta say I'd agree with Ebb, agian. If those decks are floppy skins bracing from below seems like a very logical point to proceed from. I too have spent many hours just looking and thinking what if... Before you evicerate her there are all kind of attachment points for underside bracing. One captain ran battons fore and aft then had braces with a close approximation of the deck camber running athwartship beneath the battons. If I recall it was so he could hot glue shims between them to get the correct support. then he peeled off the top. If I can find that website again I'll post a link.
I got looking....think I'll support that forward center beam (for lack of a better discription) all the way along it's length.It it maintaining the proper highth I'm most worried about. From there to the sides should be OK. Man these are soft decks...and spots on the cabin top too. Oh well...in for a nickel...in for a dime :eek:
Great to see you back at it Frank!
Don't know what material you're planning on using for the recore, but I used CoreCell A500 (B) 9MM from Noah's Marine up on your side of the border. Cuts and sands real easy too. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by frank durant
A-215 is a lucky boat - Re-Revival!
PS. Hey, do you mind if I ask where you got your trailer and how much? Feel free to PM me the info.