top & bottom rudder -- C38
joeriver, It is difficult to look at what you show there (at least from here in California).
From here, if you are asking about the space between the rudder shaft and the keel
post, the crack is about the same, top to bottom. At least scrape some paint off.
So, what are you concerned about? You might have looked at the tiller head to see
if you have any play (movement of the rudder shaft in the rudder tube) and so forth.
As I say, the rudder looks like a fiberglass rebuild. If this is so, you can't compare
it with any other rudder anyway. Yours is unique. It requires you to inspect it carefully.
Remove paint. See what you got. Check sleeve bearing under the tillerhead.
What you are showing,
in as few images possible, is what looks like a boat in pretty good shape. Posts from
some folks here on this thread say: put on some bottom and go sailing. Get familiar
with your new friend. Get the whole picture before zoning out on a detail.
Perhaps you are not sure you want to commit to C38. Understandable. You might
take on the bottom paint job to get started. Paint, rollers, tape, a corded sander from
HarborFreight, disks, rags and isopropyl alcohol, single use gloves, and a couple beers,
maybe a friend to help. That will make the boat look so much better, you might sell it.
You might sail it.
As one main responder says: If it swings freely, you probably don't have a problem.
Imco, you have to show more. Like Dr. G says, "I'll know more after my 'Y' incision"...
However, it's plain, your boat is not dead yet... GO SAILING! ...Get into it, first.
Of course there is a caveat to this. Before you go sailing, check out all the systems:
especially the rigging, and steering system, sails, stanchions, safety gear.
If you are going to moor, this is another system that has to be thought out carefully.
Battery, pv panel, automatic bilge pumps, will your boat stay afloat in a storm.
Boat alone on a mooring needs special attention to its chaffing gear.
Good luck!