Tools that work & Etc.

What do we do with the used oil these days?

I don't think my oil change franchise accepts used oil anymore.
My off brand quick gas doesn't advertise taking it.

Last I checked, our Jiffy Lube would take it.

Hello all,
I'm ramping up to cut out (remove and replace) my bulkheads and lower chain plate knees and can't visualize the right cutting tool that will accomodate the task of cutting as close as possible to the hull without actually making contact.
Is there a cutting tool out there that cuts flush or close to, and will eat fiberglass and resin soaked plywood? Also one that will work in tight places.
It looks like I'll be adding to my tool inventory, just don't know what or where to look. For my backstay chainplate knee, I cut it out with a saw zaw, but I was hoping there is something better out there.
Some where a while back I'm thinking of a mention of a Master cutting tool. Am I right? What is it, and where do I find it.

Any help greatly appreciated.

Thanks.

try the fein multimaster, it is a pretty nice tool for flush cutting

tsprat

tsprat is right on!
Despite being flogged on TV as a home improvement tool, it's real worth is boat work.
It is another one of those german tools that initially costs an arm
with the blades and accessories costing a leg.

Method of work ie cutting is vibrating /oscillting. Nothing turns or jumps around.
Their dainty dog-leg push blades cut straight in. They come in two or three widths starting at about 1" wide. This is the only tool anywhere that you will be able to cut the bulkheads off flush with the hull.
A reciprocating sawsall (that I have used in the Ariel) is really dangerous. You cut the bulkhead off leaving a stub. Then by bending a long Lenox against the hull attempt to pare the remains. Then you're into grinding to remove the rest of the tabbing. OH FUN!

The Fein will allow you to do it in almost one clean shot. As a plus you won't have to be a contortionist because the Fein is essentially a one hand tool.
You are going to smoke the expensive blades eating fiberglass, but that's the price for finesse.

It will do costly sanding into corners. You must buy their trianglar papers. I think Fein was the first and we woodworkers salivated until we found out how much it cost! There is a triangular grit tool that works well on lumpy glass. It is loud, much louder than what you hear on the tube ads.

On the down side is the funky fiddlely vacuum attachment. If Festool gets a 10 for their system the Fein gets a 3 in the design dept. However the oscillating nature of the Fein tool doesn't throw much dust in the air.

The one you probably want is advertised as the Fein Mutimaster. It comes with a 'home remodelers' set of attachments you can try. Woodcraft on the net has a video like the TV ad with a breathless annoying voice over. Take a look if you don't know the tool.
Big Box hardware stores - or look for online catalog sales: for example ToolCrib, ToolsPlus. Somebody may have a decent deal. $200 to $400.
Jamestown has a good picture display of what's available, however their prices suck.

Chance,
I've replaced dozens of bulkheads in a variety of boats using a thin piece of stainless mounted to my rivet gun. (a hold over from my past life as an aircraft mechanic) An auto body air chisel would work well also but be less controlled.
Mostly you will just be cutting the fiberglass tape, but this will go through the plywood as well. its a little loud, but produces no dust, and is very quick. I can usually get a bulkhead out in just a few minutes.
If your careful you can follow the contour of the hull pretty well, care is required when cutting around the cored deck areas. I usually cut from both sides under decks rather than going all the way through both sides.

Chance,
How long is the joint between the bulkhead and hull? Given that you had the patience to do a recore from below I'm guessing you might also have the fortitude to cut the bulkheads out by hand to save $200++. I've seen a lot of bad wood taken out of old wooden boats at the Havre de Grace Maritime Museum Wooden Boat Building School making use of the flexibility of a simple pull saw from Shark.

http://www.amazon.com/Shark-10-2204-.../dp/B00004TBPU

If you can get started down into the joint at the top of the bulkhead one of these flexible saws can be pressed against the hull, flexed and cut into the joint almost flush. My guess is the curve of the hull would allow for this approach to at least rough them out. You may need to do some grinding on what's left. You might score the surface of the hull in the process or go through two saws but have more money to put into new sails. Given the work you're going to do putting new bulkheads in, cleaning up the scoring wouldn't take much.

You might mock up the joint in plywood and give it a try. I've seen some amazing things done this way to try to save old wood on a some old boat rehabs. You might find something a little heftier than the Shark Saw if you looked around. It could take longer to get it done this way but save quite a bit of cash.

Chance,
I was typing my post just as Commander 227 was posting his rivet gun solution. It's the same principle. A flexible or shaped piece of metal can be made to cut pretty flush. His solution is less strenuous. both will work.

Fein's patent has expired, so there are less-costly alternatives out now. A round-up:

http://www.toolsnob.com/archives/200...undup.php#more

I have a few fairly stiff putty knives, 1" to 6", the ones with a hammer cap on the end. Sharpen them up a little, and they'll cut right through tabbing with ease. One of the 1" is sharpened as is to use as a starter, the others have both corners rounded so they won't did in. They're flexible enough to follow the hull, but stiff enough to cut right through the tabbing. Cutting speed is actually pretty impressive, saws can't compete especially when you consider that they won't gouge up the surrounding area.
Most of the time, once the bulkhead or cabinet etc is removed, you can use the putty knife to remove the rest of the tabbing so the only grinding needed is to provide tooth.

I've only removed one bulkhead with a sawsall, and that was enough to convince me to look for a better way. Wasn't too slow, but dirty, itchy, and scratched up the hull enough that it made more work.

Ken.

you guys are scaring the beetjuice out of me.

That old rock hard fiberglass CAN'T be that easy to cut!
With PUTTY knives?:eek: Go on wid ya!

Maybe a piece of stainless on an air tool....But still....

I have been putting in a FLUSH THRU-HULL.

Depth needed for the chamfer to be flush with the hull: 5/16"

Discovered by drilling the hole:
thickness of hull in the bilge of A338: 5/16".

I know the thickness of the hull up at the seam was about 1/8", because I saw that also!


You guys are giving me no confidence that there is any integrity, any toughness
any strength to our purdy lit'l boats.:confused:

To all that took the time to respond so graciously, a hearty thank you!

I now have, thanks to those that have been there, done that, the info to proceed. There was some great input. Here's a few comments in general:

1) I would find it very hard to believe that the tabbed in bulkheads, and associated furniture would could be cut with sharpened putty knives. Perhaps a "chisel", as they of course would work in areas that are accessible enough.

2) Hand powered draw stroke saws would work in open areas, to some degree.

3) Ebb, I was thinking of installing flush through hulls as well (haven't pursued that project yet), however I determined the same thing you know, hull thickness. My solution would be to glass in a 1/2 thick piece of G10 garolite from (McMaster) that would support the sea cock flange and would obviously give the the thickness (perhaps I bit overkill) to accomodate the mod. This would also provide a very flat surface on the interior (bilge) side.

4) I'm involved in working up on the foredeck currently. I've mocked up my anchor platform, chain/rope deck pipe, mooring cleat, chocks, and cowl vent. I've finally determined all the locations of each of the above with an emphasis on fairleads from all points that will be in use at one time or another (speaking of the future of course). I'll post photos on my gallery page in a few days.

Thanks again everyone.

The hulls are plenty strong, and the bulkheads as they're installed are perfectly fine. You could drop kick them and not break them loose.

Key to using the putty knife to remove the bulkheads is in the words 'hammer cap on the end' you need that because you use a hammer.

You don't cut the bulkhead, you cut the tabbing, the putty knife is flexible enough to follow right along the hull, but stiff enough to slice through the tabbing with ease.
I use either a deadblow hammer, or one of those double faced rubber/rawhide hammers to drive the putty knife.
The prefered putty knife is one with a decently thick blade, NOT the cheap 'red devil' type with the real thin flexible blade.

Nearly every bulkhead (berth,seat,counter etc) I've removed on a production boat has has had between one and four layers of glass, most often only two, and it's very easy to cut. It's only on owner done bulkheads that I've found bulkheads that have tabbing you can't cut with a putty knife.
Last boat I did it on was A198, and it went as easy as any other boat.

It's the same method as with commander 227's air hammer, just doesn't cut plywood easily.

Ken.

Chance, thanks for the input!

I had laid in 3/8" of Xmat and epoxy befor I holesawed just the depth of the chamfer. Barely enough it turned out!. Then I vacated the old polyester for the thru hull flange with straight and V router bits. Then continued to holesaw the big hole thru.
I have the seacock and a Whale foot water pump sharing this cubby hole (about 14" wide) between two minor bulkheads. The seacock in its own footprint is built up thicker with layers of ply.

I chose to use Forespar Marelon. That means I had to use their nylon thru hull too. Because it is nylon, that is why I chose to install flush.
That fitting is really not made to be cut shorter like you can with bronze ones. I called up F. to find out why the inside wrench ledges were at the far inside of the fitting. "These are from the mold casting of the fitting, not meant for screwing the thru hull into the seacock,"

So I've built up the thickness (about 1 1/4") under the seacock with Meranti ply. I've built up enough that the thru hull when screwed in flush with the hull does not bottom out in the seacock. All the wood pieces and the hole in the boat will be sealed with epoxy. Am thinking about using a thread seal tape for most of the two inches of thru hull in the seacock. And just bed the chamfered head and the hole in the plywood backers in thiokol. Not sure how to manage this, but I don't want polysulfide inside the seacock.

I think I'll bed the seacock on butyl tape.
[ There is no good way to take out the thru hull once it is set in polysulfide, once the rubber has cured. It's stuck there forever.
BUT a thru hull can't allow water into the boat screwed into the seacock. Therefore the fitting does not need to be glued in at all, Right???
Think I'll find some beautiful butyl wet caulk and bed with that. Bolt heads also!]
Am I missing something?



The finesse is to get the backing plate under the seacock at exactly 90 degrees to the thru-hull.
And the thru hull wants to be in flush with the bottom, not tilted any.
Forespar instructions are for a very large oversize hole in the hull and backing so their fitting won't bind when everything gets tightened.
That's a lot of wet rubber again!!!

I cut the tabbing on the main bulkhead using a cheap chisel and hammer. It was easy, quick, and dust-free.

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...1&d=1156769891