Did you delete both of them?
Printable View
Craig, Don't know what's going on.
It does occur to me that my blather is too stupid to be believed!!!!
The fridge cord is disconnected at the fridge.
So whatever system, cord length, terminal placement works for the individual.
It is a special female plug to the fridge so we are limited by that cord length,
and by what is available from Engel if we want an unspliced cord.
Thanks for the confirmation!
MAKING CONNECTIONS THAT WILL LAST
Using the original cord an attempt should be made to waterproof the crimped, soldered connectors using Liquid Lectric Tape.
And a product called JET-LUBE can be used as an anti-corrosion conductive interface at the junction block to keep the salt out.
I don't know that the Engel cord is tinned, I doubt it. So it always is a potential problem.
There is a tip sheet 'Making Connections That Will Last' in the Sept 2010 Practical Sailor by Mark Johnson (Delphys Marine) who talks about assuring connections.
"Jet Lube is a copper powder-loaded grease, that increases conductivity while displacing air or moisture in the interface."
Maybe this can be used on the built-in male plugs in the back of the Engel? And single use cigaret plugs, for that matter!
BATTERY CONNECTIONS
[I'll quote from Mark Johnson on his battery connections because his advise is extreme: (and I happen to have the mag open here!)
"On my Trojan L-14 house batteries, I crimp AND solder each cable as described above, followed by heavy adhesive-lined heat shrink.
Then I polish up the eye and lug with a Scotchbrite pad, followed by an application of Jet Lube.
After tightening the fittings, I use mineral spirits to wash off the excess J.L., leaving it only in the interface.
Then I apply five coats of Liquid Lectric tape (30 minutes between coats) to the eye, lug, up the wire a half-inch, and onto the battery top.
With my hydro caps on the batteries, all I have to do is check the water every few months, and I'm good for seven to 10 years!"
He uses a BlueSea battery fuse within 10" of the battery on both house and engine bats.] M.J. does not identify the Jet Lube product with a number.
This quote is from Practical Sailor Sept 2010 pg 5. And thanks. It seems like great advice!
also see [Proper Battery Connections - Cruisers & Sailing Forums. Mark Johnson post 14]
COPPER FILLED GREASE (petroleum oil, copper powder, bentonite)
The JetLube 12555 PURE copper filled petro goop I guess it's the SS-30, available at Sears, toolfetch, Graingers. 1/4lb brush-top can, $9 - $15.
This is a guess on my part as Practical Sailor does not identify the product either.
JetLube is a US/Canadian corporation with 150 anti-seize-type products that have an MSDS on their website. SS-30 is a micronized ('homogenized') copper filled grease - with NO graphite, lead, mercury, cyanide. Non-hazardous copper only. SS stands for stainless steel. "..formulated for stainless steel fittings." Just how that translates from oil well drilling to an Ariel, I don't know.
From the SS-30 MSDS "Not for use on oxygen lines. NOT INTENDED FOR USE WITH ALUMINUM WHERE GALVANIC CORROSION COULD BE A SIGNIFICANT ISSUE."
Whether a conductive paste can be used between s.s. against s.s. on salt water boats I don't know. Where? [perhaps when putting together a lightning grounding system] Maybe bolting on stancheons thru-deck, s.s. to s.s. Who's going to try it?
The paste is conductive therefor it would be limited to the electrical use Mark Johnson suggests. Watch out for making shorts.
If anybody can confirm that JetLube SS-30 is what is being used in marine electric installations, it will be very helpful.
It certainly is interesting to consider that when two pieces of stainless have to be assembled together - that instead of trying to isolate them with a
dilectric grease, TefGel, Lanocote, rubber, gasket, whatever to prevent corrosion - use a conductive grease instead. The primary use for any grease is to keep water and oxygen out of the interface. Using SS-30 as bedding compound might aid in creating an electric potential (is that correct?) that might help neutralize the interface by making the surfaces electrically attractive. ? Really?:confused: But this grease says somebody is doing it!
Ebb,
Just posted a 'rant on 12v plugs' here on Sailfar...
None the much too happy with our options. Thinking a terminal block may indeed be the way to go on this one.
Craig, notice you are tagged By LooseMoose blue lined to Anderson Power pole connectors.
It's too fast for me to follow, but he does not provide a SOURCE - if they are viable.
There would have to be some kind of pressure or O-ring seal to keep the salt out of the connector. Maybe an adhesive lined shrinkwrap OVER it.
If you find the answer, PLEASE post here TOO, OK?
Your presentation of plug and connector soggy promises is IMPRESSIVE.
I can imagine a push in and 1/4 turn water proof lighter-type connector (no longer a lighter!)
that would also have its inner parts (the forgotton other side) water-resistant as well. Three times normal price marine.
But in the mean time, you gotta admit the copper conductive grease looks good! ? ? ?