table in the stowed position but with one leaf flipped up for a nav table or a little more counter space for the sink
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5b6274b7.jpg
Printable View
table in the stowed position but with one leaf flipped up for a nav table or a little more counter space for the sink
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps5b6274b7.jpg
in the stowed position
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps885c1233.jpg
Amazing design. Unbelievable speed!
thanks, but actually, not fast enough.... however, a bit faster than some of the other rebuilds here on the Ariel Forum. but, i have been given a gift of time so I am trying to get as much accomplished and back in the water this summer. The cabin is starting to take shape, almost feels like a sailboat again, but I still have a long way to go, and a lot more head scratching. We will see at what level of finish she is when I put her back in the water. In terms of when she goes back in the water, that remains to be seen as I will have to take a month long break from mid May to mid June to move from SF to Philly. After which I wont be alone and able to work as much as choose, sooo, I need to get as much done as I can. Thankfully, the winter here is winding down and I should be able to get more done on a typical day.
Been often here to see your astonishing remodel!
With appologies to John Keats:
Time's sea hath been ten years at its slow ebb...
Long hours have to and fro let creep the sand...
Since I was tangled in the Ariel's beauty-web...
And snared by the ungloving of what I planned!
All speed!
my new Lavac toilet!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps33b81486.jpg
any thoughts on the placement?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psedd361a6.jpg
i believe that the previous toilet pedestal location will be behind a low bulkhead for storage/water tank
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2ea7b723.jpg
Happy St. Patty's day! took a couple pics. getting the v-berth sorted. Took me a while to get the first athwartship piece set up. measure this, measure that, eyball this, check level here, make a template, shave down... scratch head. start process over again. however, once i get a key piece set in place I can move a bit more quickly... anyway, stbd side berth with the two drawers underneith and open storage below that. (The under storage may get a door later.)
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0654abe8.jpg
well, after a bunch of head scratching I put the head where it was in the first place... ha, I tried. But, the point of moving it over to the port side didnt make any real functional difference, perhaps easier access to the forepeak. However, I did figure out some pretty neat feature with the holding tank... in speaking with an Alberg30 owner, I was telling him about how I didnt have any experience with marine toilets and that the diagrams and rats nests of hoses and diverters was hard to figure out. He had built his holding tank up over the toilet and seacock. The idea being that you pump the poo up to the tank but let gravity whisk it away. Wow. So, instead of a series of diverters to pump in the tank, out of the tank, through the tank, over the tank.... Instead, i wont have any diverters and a minimal amount of hoses for poo to get stuck and smell up the boat. If I am sailing in an area where I cant pump out directly I just close the seacock. simple.
So, I am going to make a triangular shaped ply/fiberglass box and mount it directly under the deck and above the outgoing seacock. The holding tank will be mounted to the 1/2" mini bulkhead that I have built. This is so much easier for me to manage and modify if necessary. Before, I had been thinking of making an integrated tank on the v-berth sole that would have needed to be built next to the compression posts... this would have been a huge pain in the ass if an unforeseen problem had arisen.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps54889b21.jpg
here you can see the footwell of the main berth coming through the main bulkhead. There will be shelving or locker above it, not sure which yet. The next mini bay is going to be a hanging locker. On the other side of the 1/2" mini bulkhead will be the holding tank.
I would also like to say that I choose an inappropriate time to make use of 1/4" plywood... I used it at the end of the footwell, since this is a non load bearing mini bulkhead, however, now I am stuck having to bridge these two mini bulkheads together as the 1/4" cant take the force if one was to tear at the exposed corner... I will think of something, however, I blame the rain on this one, as I ran out of 1/2" and couldnt drive 2 hours in the rain with a sheet of plywood on the roof of my car.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps77a32f42.jpg
I purchased the Thunderstruck sailboat kit last week, so in anticipation of its arrival I have shifted focus on to the electric conversion for a little while. In terms of fabrication, the motor mount is what I need to figure out first, so, I took a closer look at the original motor base for the Atomic4. Well... it has some issues, the first is that the end closest to the end of the prop shaft is not really attached to the hull, anymore. And actually, the last 5" or so are spoiled by oil and grime. I say this because the 300lb Atomic4 had a distributed load over the entire base which worked. However, the 40lb load that i intend attach to the motor base needs to be attached at the spoiled end. If we were just talking about the 40 lbs load I wouldnt care, but it is also going to vibrating in conjunction with the motor and spinning prop shaft, which, if not attached properly, may make any vibration worse.
As a matter of fact the entire base is now, after 50 years of holding up a slimey gasoline engine, impregnated with oil. So, i cant just lay some glass over top.
I feel as though I answer my own questions before I even finish typing, but what do you all think?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps36d3c1c0.jpg
Here you can see the black little dots and damp areas... i just sanded and wiped!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psbcdd1ea4.jpg
Do not sand. You are scrubbing the oil into the glass.
Do not use solvents. In that space they will kill you and drive the oil deeper into the glass.
Don't have the whole picture....but what I would start with carbide scrappers.
I have Bacho. You find them small with triangle and circular blades.
But they have a larger one with 2'' wide flat carbide blades. These are pull scrapers. Tried others, these work on old polyester.
Scrape the hell out of the surfaces. You want to cut out significant material, probably down into
the first layer, maybe more of the mat Pearson probably used to built up the hull in there. [Maybe not that deep. It depends on how contaminated
the polyester is. Maybe not deep at all if the boat spent a lot of time in the water and the plastic had water vapor in it? Impossible to say.
Maybe smelling the stuff removed will clue you whether oil soaked in or not in the scrapings]
A338 has a skinny laminated hull. So in case you have a thin hull....watch it!
Whatever hull laminations you remove (not original tabbing used to paste things on the hull) you should build it back up with glass & epoxy.
Then wash with Dawn detergent or Joy. Some people suggest GOJO, which I haven't used, but it sounds like a good idea. You want to wash/scub/dissolve and soak up the liquid and suds with hundreds of paper towels. Or whatever. You are trying to get rid of contamination, so you don't want to spread it around. Then make sure the soap is removed with rinsing.
Get it dry and do a test with epoxy to see if it bonds to the hull..
I'd see if the mounting blocks are where & what you want. Do they need to be lower for instance. Are they level?
I'd remove any piece that has come loose, cut it out with an oscillating blade tool. Do the decontamination clean up.
Remold the ledges where you want them with polyethylene sheet, which epoxy doesn't stick to.
You can zap together flat pieces with short skinny 'sheet-rock' screws, make almost any volume and shape, pack in your own mix of epoxy, chopped strand, fumed silica, & laminating epoxy - mold in place exactly what you want. Mold falls off after set.
You may find uncontaminated virgin hull that with 40 grit prep will bond your epoxy to the polyester.
But I still won't trust a bond where the old stuff was without testing first.
If you take the old ledges out, maybe you can build down with layers of Xmatt from higher up where oil didn't get.
And build your new ledges from off the new laminations. Maybe find enuf bond to the hull that way? Good luck!
May find something useful on the Silicone is Truly Evil thread.
Here the oil contamination was in gel coat which is more porus than plain layup. Can't remenber what I did, but probably GRINDED it down to green polyester. [remember now: used a Festool heavy duty 5 or 6" sander with small number grit disks, AND an incredible HEPA vac that sucked all dust up. A revelation.].....
You going to raise any dust in the bilge there, beg borrow or steal the tool and the Festool vac. Imagine, no goggles, no mask, no clean-up.
Whatever method, it was replaced with a layer of Xmatt, which is a glass mat you can use with epoxy, and this can
be sanded or grinded to level because it isn't woven. Would not grind on on glass cloth. Faired with structural epoxy filler - epoxy primed, no gelcoat.
Got lucky.... the rebuilt coaming sidedecks look pretty good with no noticable hollow sounding or bendy delams.
With no gel coat, once you've scraped it clean, the oil may, may, not have penetrated very deep. Oil in the bilge would be another story!
Aha! i read the 'silicone is evil' thread. man, i am truly learning so much about boat building/rebuilding every day. I wake up every morning, have some coffee, do a little email, research some boat stuff on what ever topic i might be working on that day and then attack. So, good on you Ebb for steering me in the right direction before I made a situation worse. Well, as I suspected, and Ebb has now confirmed, I need to start from virgin glass. And now, i know how to grind the oil deeper! Fortunately, I am not dealing with Silicone oil rather just 50 year old motor oil.
So, now I need to cut the old motor base completely out of the boat so I can get a better lay of the land.
Great! Noticed in A338 that the tabbing Pearson put in after the initial molding was done,
like for bulkheads, settee fronts, stringers, etc - that the tabbing is sometimes TOO EASY
to get underneath and start peeling. Can assume they were slapping stuff together without 'proper' prep.
A sharp chisel can do significant damage to the old green poly.
And start some scarey peeling of old laminations !!!
[Explanation is that plastic can't soak into glass, the liquid plastic surrounds it at best. So if you start lifting
material off, you'll see white filiments of old glass that your tool is cutting along. Doesn't mean they did a bad job.
You can see how glass reinforced hulls get water in them. ] And that's where oil gets into.
Don't know how you're gonna work in there......:eek:
Just thinking.....oscillating Fein-type tools come with a scraper type blade that you push into the work. No teeth.
Wonder if the blade can be sharpened, and kept sharpened with a makita grinder.
Don't want fancy sharp. A ragged sharp would get into the offending glass surface. Worth a try
Haven't did this myself. Don't be tempted to grind on the hull until you're sure it's degreased.
I got all the oil impregnated fiberglass out of the way. I choose to use the 'peel the onion' technic using a sharp chisel and hammer. I was able to delaminate in nice layers, it still took all day to get the area totally prepped but hey, its gone now. However, on this 3rd day of 'spring' i choose not to sit in the 30 degree windy boat and instead poured through the McMaster site researching all the bits to make the cradle. I think I have most of the major parts spec'd out. I then modeled the parts and assembled them together to find out what kind of space requirements i will need and what I will have to compromise. Not shown are the 'bolt down, vibration dampening, motor mounts' which I am glad to say are only 11 dollars each. ha! eat that marine industry rip off. seriously, i have seen prices on small motor mounts nearing 50 bux each. really?
I have not even touched the 'design' of the actual metal (aluminum) frame as I need to take some more measurements. Now that I have an idea of the components and their sizes I can play the back and forth game til i can narrow things down. One critical measurement I need to double/triple check is the distance from the edge of the pulley to the hull... its going to be close, maybe very close and, unfortunately, the only way to eleviate this is to purchase a longer prop shaft.... which would be another 200+/- bux
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps44a0cba3.jpg
When I was in San Francisco a couple weeks ago I cut out 3/16" stainless steel sheet to make all the parts. I checked a box of parts when I flew back east and dropped them off at a local machine shop to get bent and welded. I should get the parts back soon... I already got all the nuts/bolts, pulleys and belts from Mcmaster.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps96ec7983.jpg
in other news, i was able to reuse some of the interior bunk fiddles for a mainsheet traveler base. Question: i believe this is teak. Starting from the center, can i just bolt it down? i think its about 5/8" thick. Seems like it should be able to handle the bend... i could use a couple strips of 1/4" marine ply laminated together, but reusing the original just 'fits' better.
now to my metal worker to put a bend on the track.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1b62a3d7.jpg
Garhauer 48" main traveler track fits perfectly
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psf56ed695.jpg
and some clear deck plates to give my boat some soul... sole! though in retrospect, i may have saved some materials, but I should have just cut the entire thing out and started from a fresh piece of 3/4" ply. Having to cut holes, brace the old access ports, refiberglass and then level... im sure has taken more time.
anyway, the clear access ports are pretty nifty. They allow sight into the nice clean bilge storage. They are especially cool with the 'bilge light' on. Soul glow!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps32ddccde.jpg
so i need to start thinking about interior painting. i have no idea. Do i just use standard primer and an exterior paint? do i have to be worried about 'marine' grade paints?
Nice work, you are really moving along.
Of course you can use any old paint on your boat. But I think you might find the marine paints are quite easy to apply and do a very nice job. The volume of paint you need isn't very much so the cost difference is not too great. I've used Interlux Pre-Kote and Brightside on architectural fabrication jobs after realizing their worth from using them on sailboats. Nice brushes and roller covers contribute greatly to the cause.
Bolting the traveler track through the teak mounting board and fiberglass deck with fender washers and nuts will work fine. No need to glue anything down. You might want to slightly bevel the holes you drill through the deck with a countersink and apply a tiny bit of a soft sealant like Life-Caulk during assembly to keep out water of the lazarette.
Looking great! I've had really good luck with a Sherwin Williams two part glossy or eggshell paint for the interiors of boats. It goes on nice and thick flows out nicely and is hard and smooth. No need for primer. It is a lot like working with Interlux 2000E but half the price and a very nice finish. They can tint or color to your preference.
Your traveler track looks to be a low profile track. If that is the case you should be able to just bolt it down with out prebending it. I really like the lights in the bilge idea... Cool.
Mike
C227
I've read about adding mildewicde to the interior paints too. Seems like a good idea.
You got a nice and sure touch there Capt Soup.
It's going to be fantastic when it's dolled up and trimmed out.
Epoxy primers will seal the wood, making finish painting easy.
Primed with thin white epoxy and with SW Proline sanding epoxy primer for the cosmetics.
Seal all wood surfaces in inaccessable areas to keep mold at bay, but aye didn't bother with finish coat.
It would be better to have easy to keep clean epoxy enamel there, to make sure it sticks forever. Too much for me.
ShermanWilliams makes great paints, including hard to find marine paints.
Used their Proline sanding epoxy primer all over the boat. BUT
But I don't/can't do that anymore.
Now go with waterborne, water reducible coatings.
Inside painting you might find low VOC SYSTEM3 waterborne sandable epoxy primer useful and even FUN.
WR-155 (Water Reducible). It can be used as a general epoxy primer.
But it's meant to be the prep for their WR LPU paint which you'd use outside, enjoying the benefit of no toxic flamable solvents and fumes. You don't need a first primer with the 155 - roll it on and sand it - for any paint.
There's a learning curve (and a wallet curve) with System3 stuff........ but for me it's been worth it.
Before any paint (last concession to the toxic gods) just naturally will brush on a slightly thinned (penetrating*) coat of laminating epoxy to actually seal and waterproof the plywood. Keep paint from peeling. Easy and quick. Do work with the least toxic laminating epoxy availablle. Don't think they've waterborned that stuff yet!
Not mixed with anything and put on thin, its easy to sand/scuff/smooth and follow with any fairing mix and epoxy sanding primer. Or nowadays skip the primer with the new bigbox acrylic/latex paints. Haven't done that. Depends on what you want to end up with. Or maybe how patient you are!
Shy away from urethane finish coats because imco you can't really successfuly paint over them down the line.
Also it's best to stay away from shiney anything down below, including varnish. Satin hides many sins.
.................................................. .................................................. .................................................. ...........................................
*you don't need to buy a special sealer like solventborne CPES. Mix your own using a little xylene. Bad stuff. Slap it on & leave the scene.
well, i finally got some of my electric drive engine mount parts back. thankfully i made the cradle very adjustable which came into immediate use as I was able to utilize a new (used) 7/8" Stainless prop shaft that was 4" longer. btw, Bacon Sails rocks! i found a hardly used stainless prop shaft for 15 bux!
So, the vibration damping feet are currently attached to the base via 1/4-20 screws into threaded inserts, 2 per foot... im on the fence about whether this is a little too whimpy. I guess I just dont know about the vibration and how it will affect the mounting. I figure that I will epoxy the threaded inserts and used blue locktite on all bolts that dont have lock washers. any thoughts?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps9121b0f2.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psa798e16e.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps18bcb70c.jpg
what to do? the bend of the track looks perfect, however the fabricator did not put an appropriate backer on the track before rolling so the top of the track got marred. I am annoyed as I think the hard anodizing is broken and will now corrode at a faster rate... I would like to start buttoning this boat up, but I dont want to have to take this off in a year or two to get reanodized... am i being weird and should just mount it?
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps011a0086.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pscfd3cf43.jpg
The path most have taken is to set a teak base under a section of straight track & through bolt them both to the deck. Surplus track is inexpensive and you already have the curve for the bottom of the teak base. Check the gallery for photos . . might want to search on traveler track, etc.
oh, yeah, i am reusing the bunk fiddle as a main traveler base (post #220) which i think will work out great, however my issue is: should I worry that the fabricator broke the surface of the hard anodizing of the track?
You asked for opinions and here is mine. I would go back to the fabricator and ask him to replace it. If he takes that little care in his chosen profession then he should expect to not make money.
This is what I meant by using a straight track and curved teak base:
http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...Sheet-Traveler
I would not bend the track to fit the deck.
too late! i alreadly leveled and faired the deck, epoxied a 1/4" backer underneith and bent the track! i really wanted the clean line of the back wall of the cockpit without the original glassed in mainsheet pulley stand-offs... im in this project so deep that I couldnt resist.
well... Im back. After a month long move across the country I am back in Maryland for the summer. whew. Packing one's life, stuffing it in a truck and driving at 60 miles an hour all the way across the country sux. Anyway, I have the summer to get back to work, unfortunately, I can not devote the full time schedule as I had before as I think I might not be engaged (to be married) for very long.
One notable event that happened while I was away in California was that I was able to meet Ebb, in person, and inspect his fine craftsmanship. We were able to talk shop and I was able to see all the construction details that web photos cant seem to capture. It was also great to see another Ariel that has such a dramatic interior layout. After sitting in his boat, and mine, it is pretty weird to see interior photos of a stock cabin!
however, before I left I was not able to upload any progress photos so I thought I might show how I left her a month ago.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps845bde4d.jpg
The final electric conversion base and motor cradle in place and ready for final fitment. I still have some glass work to do on the cock pit support and then a final paint...
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psfc192cd2.jpg
The new (used) shaft aligned and ready to go. I had prepped the bilge with barrier coat and then a couple coats for BilgeKote, man it looks great. The gratification in looking at this bilge, though still not complete, is wondrous.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0948882f.jpg
The under cockpit bunk is nearly ready for final glassing and the bunk base. You can see the glow through the glass of the hull where I stopped sanding just below the boot stripe and then a Sharpied' line a couple inches below for the bunk.... The clear deck plate will allow some ventilation to the lazerette (if needed) as well as access to the engine controls which will be mounted to the rear of the cockpit. This new bulkhead was mounted to the forward side of the aft drain of the former cockpit bench hatch... if that makes sense. This means that the lazerette gained a little cubic footage and that I can also access the engine controls from the lazerette side... I am also planning on mounting an opening port through the cockpit vertical wall to allow light and ventilation from the bunk into the cockpit footwell.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps17841f91.jpg
The V-berth Lavac toilet mock up in place with a barrier coated base. I will install another low bulkhead to seal off this area which will contain any leakage, water or otherwise. These low bulkheads are more than 6" above the waterline which should make her 'unsinkable' in case of seacock/toilet failure. I have to say that I have come to love old Wilcox-Crittendon bronze, these seacocks were stuck but after disassembly, gentile persuasion, wire brushes and a little elbow grease they really come back to life.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psdec34bd5.jpg
A bit of Bilgekote on the inside of the cabinets before they get sealed up for good. Again, nice to get to the painting level of finish, makes me feel as though and end is in sight and I may be able to go for a sail!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pse1f80068.jpg
More under cabinet painting as well as the 3/4" chainplate backers epoxied into place.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps1061e004.jpg
A new quarter circle shelf epoxied to the underside of the port side running light 'box'. This shelf will be duplicated on the other side and will be for easy access to small items. This shelf also marks the location of the new electric panel, just below. On the counter below is access to the vertical ice chest of which I am using one of the old teak cabinet doors (underneith my work gloves).
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps251020d4.jpg
A better view of the quarter shelf. I am also going to mount two 12v plugs on the running light 'box' to charge things like phones and other electronic gadgets.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0762e79a.jpg
A view looking back from the head. The compass has been removed so I can glass over this hole. I am removing this for the same reason that the former ice chest access hatch was glassed over. These two things make it impossible to sit in one of the two best locations to sit in the cockpit, back against the cabin, facing aft.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps698dd54f.jpg
This remains as the last bit of cabinet construction that I have yet to tackle... the sink area with its storage and connection to the aft bunk is still foggy in my mind. I do want to attack this pretty soon and have all the cabinet construction finished.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps07649cbf.jpg
All 30 or so holes filled and ready for final leveling and then painting. Teaking the cockpit is just not in the cards this time. Though I do have to cut one more oval hole for the opening port in the cockpit well for the aft bunk ventilation.
I have been slowly working on Triumph in the heat. Its kind of ironic, now when I can find the time to do some work the temperature makes it nearly impossible. In January, i remember working on the boat, looking outside, thinking how great it would be working in the summer... well, this past week its been 95 with 80 percent humidity. My brain slowed as the humidity solidified and imprinted my body onto whatever I happened to be sitting on. Sweating, I would trying and figure out the least physically intense operation... for about 10 minutes, then starting doing, whatever it was that I had sat down to do. another 10 minutes lost.
anyway, I did manage to finish up the aft bunk and get a good chunk of the galley/sink cabinet done. Since, i have been vacillating between several different design possibilities for the sink area, I am at least committed... its the finishing details that get me hung up. For instance, the termination of the aft bunk into the galley/sink cabinet has been really screwing with me; how the different elevations of the floor, bunk and opposing settee heights relate to one another, how the galley/sink cabinet opens to allow access and what happens with a door...? How the curved plywood of the base will intersect with other curved areas... oh god.
When I think back now to the question/argument of curved cabinets, I had previously thought the issue was about space efficiency vs aesthetics. Now I realize the spacial argument is moot. The real limitations of curved cabinets is in the design / build, as they take a HUGE amount of time to figure out, then the build is going to be infinitely more complex and more time consuming . But, I still love them. This boat is going to be awesome, someday.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps87f5c6e4.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pse2c60ceb.jpg
The upper portion, back of the cabinet, is going to be.... not sure. I thought it was a good space to add some 'sealed' storage, but just not sure what yet. Maybe electronics. Maybe cooking utensils.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psa9d8741e.jpg
One more concession that I have made is to use a 1-2 gallon holding tank for the sink and use the manual bilge pump, via 'y-valve', to clear the contents. Originally, I was going to plumb the sink back to the cockpit drain, however I realized that the likeliness of taking on lots of water while heeled over was inevitable. I thought about an in-line shutoff valve, but would I remember every time? no. Any thoughts?
Also, the piece of scrap ply on the top is the template for the sink. This image was taken yesterday before I cut the hole- I did change the orientation, rotating it 90 degrees.
stupid computer.... deleted my very lengthy post. In a nutshell, I was able to spend 5 days last week working on Triumph. I left feeling very accomplished as I near the end of the interior reconstruction. yay!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psd5a3a730.jpg
all nearly leveled and faired, including the former compass hole
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psc73d0ea4.jpg
larger footwell access for the main salon double berth and finished galley sink cabinet
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps0eec4f3d.jpg
sink is all secured and ready, all working surfaces are going to be topped with 1/4" bamboo just like the sink. Here the sink cabinet will get a pair of double curved doors meeting at the curve apex and the 1 1/4" PVC tubing will be replaced with piece of 1" SS tubing, locked in place to provide support for the edge.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pse86249a5.jpg
chainlocker/deck support glassed in and a another low bulkhead forward of the toilet sealing the toilet area.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psf16e242a.jpg
forward portion of the main bulkhead complete along with most of the port side, v-berth storage area. It was great to see this area come together, just needs some shelving and finish work....
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps80128ead.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psd51f876c.jpg
It may be hard to tell, however, I offset the 11" holes through the main bulkhead to add a little better sight from the main salon to the port window. This also added a bit of whimsy as if you look dead on it looks like the opening has a crescent moon. I think I may light this thin interior space to further accent this.
WHOA! Those CAD pix on photobucket are terrific! Nice work!
http://s1354.photobucket.com/user/a9...?sort=3&page=6
hey thanks Dawg. yeah, i havent revised them since january, however I am working on the plan and elevation views of the redesign as I am going to be putting some of this enormous project in my portfolio. I will redo the renderings to reflect my final design pretty soon. I am say soon since I am looking for work and I think I might be interested in getting involved in the marine design/fabrication side of things in my professional career
you can see a quick blurb of this project and some of my other work here... www.carbonsoup.com
Dawg, here is a quick preview of the hull lines and layout drawings. These were made using SolidWorks and Illustrator, so as accurate as I think they could be made. I will upload these to the site in full vector for all to enjoy and edit when I get a chance.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7eba4064.jpg
www.carbonsoup.com/a97triumph
Here is the beta release of my new Pearson Ariel, Triumph website. I still have a ton of content to insert and edit, so please excuse the lack there of, however please give me feed back on what I have available, site structure and suggestions. I would really appreciate it!
Once i have, most of it sorted out and uploaded I will move the site to a permanent domain.
...another couple months and I am settled in Philly with a nice apartment (& attached shop). I also have a new job that has kept me really busy, to the point where I havent been able to get off the couch after work, let alone spend any time working on the boat, which is now over two hours away... I knew this would happen which is why i had been pushing so hard to get it back in the water last summer, but alas, its December.
Questions!
1. The interior has been progressing quite slowly so pictures would not reveal a whole lot. Most of my time spent has been filling, sanding and leveling with thickened epoxy. Which brings me to my first question- is there a good, single part, filler/leveler? I am tired of mixing expensive epoxy for fairing purposes. I have interior leveling as well as exterior. The cockpit is 80% finished, but a nice leveling compound might make things move a little faster, with less steps.
2. Another item that I have been spending time with is grinding the gelcoat off the bottom. This is not a project that I had anticipated as taking so much effort.... Im stuck finishing what I had haphazardly started- partially because I was already having to fill and fair nearly a half dozen holes and all the spider cracking in the gel coat made me cringe. Anyway, I have ground the starboard side of the hull (below the waterline) all the way to virgin glass. However, I wanted to ask what would be the proper way to transition to the relatively new red topsides. So far, I have ground to about an inch of the red alwgrip. Should I carefully sand the hull up to the red top coat, apply my barrier coat and then bottom paint. This would seem the easiest, but perhaps the least ideal. i dunno.
#1. Imco, prep for painting above the sheer has to go forward with 2-part epoxies.
Initial repair with epoxy gel, with or withoust chopped strand glass for structural filling.
There is no other technology that has the versatility of good epoxies for predictable results.
Cosmetic, ie filling small holes and shallow depressions, ought to be done with
laminating epoxy mixed with WestSystem's 407 low density powder filler.
That should be your final fairing and filling.....ready for primer, pin-hole filling, no other flaws.
Imco, follow that with a sandable epoxy primer. Any number of coats necessary...
to present the surface to whatever paint system you will use for final color....for show.
IMCO = 'in my considered opinion'.......
Using 100% solids, no solvents - no-blush - premium laminating - 2-to-1 epoxy will,
imco, protect the boat and also protect the coatings you are finishing the boat with.
100% solids epoxy so there is no out-gassing to screw up your color coats. If you
use SOLVENT epoxy primers & sandables make sure they cure well beyond what is specified.
Seriously look into SystemThree's water reducable 2-part epoxy sandable primers.....
WR-155 works over polyester and epoxy bases, and is compatable with all finish systems,
so far as I know. No outgassing to screw them up. No VOCs to kill you.
(Epoxy primers are the transitional chemistry between, in this case, polyester/ vinylester....
and any finshing emanel or LPU. Imco the best primers are water reducable.)
#2. I'm not sure that removing gelcoat is necessary for barrier coating the hull.
The hull is not known for blistering, as the laminations (and gelcoat) were made with
unadulterated polyester rsisns available in the 60's.
But since you are....once you are done....suggest covering the hull with a primo white epoxy
'structural' coating* (not epoxy enamel paint). Depending on how you roll or spray it on
....three or four coats. Usually unnecessary to prime the bottom if using industrial coating.
Before you apply those important epoxy coats, you can fill and fair with the same 407 material
used topside. Would not recommend any other off shelf powder (but only because I haven't
used them TMK - 407 is good stuff.......However I will not use West System's toxic laminating epoxy.)
Don't use Bondo or any polyester filler in the bottom prep.
Get the ingredients and experiment with your own epoxy formula for a sandable fairing compound.
Imco it's important that the whole bottom up to the waterline is redundantly epoxy sealed.....
certainly if the boat is going to spend the next 50 years in the water..
Assume that if you already have Awlgrip on the topsides the surface would have been prepped
with epoxy. The topsides most likely would not be stripped of gelcoat. They would have been
dewaxed & heavily sanded - fairing and filling done with epoxy and appropriate compounds.
Main reason for the multi-layered epoxy coating after gelcoat sanding or grinding is
to have a water proof barrier to protect the more water vulnerable original antique polyester....
second, to create an obvious layer of color that future bottom prep for bottom paint
will not go beyond. (extra coats so that you won't sand through to the polyester.)
If the waterline is where you want it, imco, choose the top or bottom of it and stop
there with your new bottom coating system. Probably the pro that did the prep
for the topsides Awlgrip went to the bottom of the painted waterline, but stopped his
spray at his masking tape at the top of the waterline stripe.
Waterline stripes are commonly painted with one-part non-urethane enamels to allow
them to be sanded and repainted regularly. Awlgrip cannot take constant immersion.
Matching, or touch-up re-painting, of existing Awlgrip color is out of the question.
Use the boot stripe to adjust mistakes. Top line of stripe doesn't have to be straight.
That's one way to see it!
Hope we're having fun!
.................................................. .................................................. .....................................
* This type of industrial coating will probably have solvents in its formula, or will have
to be thinned with aromatic solvents. For tutorials and products see www.epoxyproducts.com
ebb, thanks for the update. I was pretty sure about having to continue with 2-part epoxies as getting a proper bond is the only way to make sure she lasts another 50 years... alas, i was hoping there was a magic bullet to help save some time. As far as the barrier coat is concerned, i will continue on grinding away... though I think I may buy a new 8" grinder to help speed the gel coat removal but then stop at the edge of the boot stripe.
another couple months pass... and now I am considering getting a trailer. 2.5 hours away after a 6 day work week is impossible. anyone? I could take an existing trailer and add the supports... but that would require trailer building knowledge... sigh. or I could bite the bullet and sink myself deeper into dept and buy a new one from Triad...
this is where I have been spending most of my time for the past 8 months...
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps2c1261fa.jpg
Now THAT is a blinking SHOP ! ! !
you are actually only looking at where all the assembly and fabrication happen, there are several other buildlings with waterjet, lasercutters, CNC plasma, 3D breaks, 100 ton presses, powder coating, finishing department..... not really my cup of tea. I have learned a lot, but this place is in it to make money who happens to make metal.
Or you could build a simple cradle and rent a flat bed trailer and move it with some help from a friend. It's documented on one of the threads here.
Well you don't need a travel lift, a: come-a-long , couple pieces of pipe as a roller and a floor jack is all I use to do this, and I move several of these boats thgis way Ariels Electras etc. Sounds daunting but it is pretty simple.
I finally got around to filling in some of the refit data that I have accumulated with Triumph.. I have original hull line drawings, cleaned up vector drawings, plan views, elevations, electric motor cradle drawings, working spreadsheets and other links.
I would have posted all this stuff here but I made downloadable content so I couldnt make links from my server... Bill, you can repost if you want. I would think that the '1961 Original hull line drawings' might be of interest to you guys as I spent many, many hours cleaning up the 'debris' of 50 years of photocopying and digital reprocessing.
http://www.carbonsoup.com/A97triumph/?page_id=204
the rest of the site (and boat!) still have a long way to go...
best, matt
hey, i got a trailer! 8k capacity, disk brakes and it was hardly used. jeez, i hope it fits. now, onto building the cradle.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps18147f69.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psf2940794.jpg
Yeah, can see the tape! Hope they fits, too.
Been to your site. Wonderful CRISP Alberg lines there!
Aren't they gorgeous!
I hear music when I see them! Never gets old.
Miss the view of exterior deck....
Want some interior shots.
Matt,
Congrats! But you mint want to flip that thing over, they make a lot of racket when you drag them down the road like that... :p
it would seem that the trickle of work completed on the boat has been related to metal work... I fabricated a new internal halyard masthead sheave block. The design was an evolution of Jerry Carpenter's Destiny's masthead sheave block. This is v.2 where Jerry and Mike (C227) came up with an over/under design so the main halyard sheave is up top and the jib halyard sheave is on bottom. This is to keep the jib halyard from getting in the way of the forestay and jib. As yet, still untested... but the main block is fabricated.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps61ab070b.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps8606c437.jpg
Upon 'test fitting' I noticed the oblong hole for where the upper shroud attaches to the mast, port side. Interesting that the oblong is only on one side. Anyway, Im not entirely sure what type of cat skinning I intend, as there are a couple different ways to solve this problem.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps570fa66f.jpg
I could:
1. weld up the oblong hole and redrill- this is the cleanest and simplest, except for the fact that I am not the best aluminum welder and where I would be performing such task would be less than optimal.
2. make a large aluminum patch, say 3" dia with and an appropriate hole, then rivet/screw into place.
3. drill the oblong hole round and make a shim with a collar for the shroud thru bolt.
well, the days pass by and though I have done almost no work on the actual boat... I have finally finished the trailer, which Triumph is comfortably resting upon. This is such a huge milestone for me its hard to describe. Getting the trailer, modifiying the trailer, getting the boat transport guy to move her for the second time (after I already paid 2 years earlier) and then finally paying the local yard to lift her off one trailer and then place mine.... wheew!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps3h5ntpjm.jpg
There are a couple things yet left to do to the trailer before she is ready for long distance travel. 1)bow support. I decided to wait until after Triumph was settled onto the trailer to weld on the final support, as I had NO IDEA where to put it... haha. 2) add a couple hook points for oversize tie-downs.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psrpthzyoh.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psnoiwsqzm.jpg
And option #4 could be a 3" dia. patch that gets welded inside the mast. You drill a series of small say 1/4" holes around what will be the perimeter of the patch. Then you hammer the patch into a curve similar to the inside of the mast. Wedge it in place inside the mast. and start by plug welding the 1/4" holes around the perimeter. When they are welded you have a solid backing to plug weld the oblong hole and don't have to worry about blowing it out on the edges as you try to weld it up. Once it is welded and ground smooth you can drill the new hole and have extra meat in the area to help support the area and reinforce it.
Or, you could do what I figured out in the end would have been cheaper for me after I spent all the money rehabbing my mast and buy a new one from US Spars.
Options abound on different ways to skin that cat don't they?
The hardest thing about customizing an existing motorboat trailer to fit a sailboat is determining where the adjustable pads are going to land on the hull, but before that we need to figure out the foundation; i.e., keel support, center of gravity and how far above the axles the boat is going to rest.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps6cdzbonj.jpg
Here you can see that I lopped off all of the pre-existing motorboat supports and have started to build the keel support. In my case, the keel support starts with 3″x3″x3/16 angle laying over the top of the existing cross braces. This was too add strength and rigidity to the cross braces while raising the keel support 4.5″ over the axles. This was after determining that the axles had about 3″ of vertical movement before wheels started rubbing. I then laid 2″x2″x3/16″ angle over the top to connect the cross braces and to capture the keel support lumber.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pswknhr1l6.jpg
Skipping ahead, here is the nearly complete cradle showing (Schedule 40) 1 1/2″ steel pipe used as the boat support. The pipe is taking nearly all the vertical load with 2″x2″x1/8″ angle as vertical bracing (under tension).
As I mentioned before the hardest part was determining where to land the adjustable pads on the hull. I have to say… after looking at the original hull drawings, a sketch of a cradle in the Ariel/Commander owners’ manual, measurements taken from other Ariel trailers, and hanging an imaginary waterline off the trailer… I guessed.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psrhfys2dv.jpg
However, I did myself a favor by rough cutting the adjustable pad supports nearly 18″ longer than I needed. Then while onsite at the boat yard and with the boat in the travel-lift I hung the boat over the trailer and took measurement (X) from the bottom of the keel to the keel support. By taking X plus the height of the adjustable screw top I cut the supporting pipe down to the correct size, about 9″-15″. voila!
Matt
Your work looks very nicely done. You are making what looks like a pretty strong trailer that should service you well.
The only thing I noticed and it may not be the case but when I had my trailer built all of the supports were similar in length like yours look (the pipe supports that the threaded rod goes into). When we went to set the boat on the trailer we had to cut the center ones down about 8" because we could not adjust them low enough to work with the hull. So there I was with a sawzall cutting off heavy gauge square tube while the boat hull over my head on the travel lift. Hope you don't have to repeat my experience.
Are you planning on putting a v-shaped support for the bow in the front?
There is a plan for a A-C cradle in the manual. Might be helpful . . .
it was helpful! as a matter of fact, the most useful info I had to go on, besides the original hull drawings. however, a stationary cradle is a bit different than a mobile trailer. I did find that once I determined the general area where the adjustable pad was to land on the hull I could relax a little bit as the adjustable top could take up the slack....
when i get a chance, I will make a technical drawing of the most useful dimensions in relation to the 'standard' trailer.
Yes and Yes. In post #255 you can see how the trailer was 'amended'. I did, indeed, need to cut the supports with the boat hanging over my head... it was on the only way.
The bow support is coming soon. I will need to tow her a couple miles up the road to do the welding.
I made it home! Finally, I can get back to work. Not sure if I will be back in the water by this coming summer or not.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps39vx6xaq.jpg
This was a an enormous project in an of it self.... just driving through Philly, down my street, backing it up the driveway and winching it the last 20ft!
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps7fj5a0ui.jpg
So, my first post in a while regarding work.... now I have a dust dilemma. What have you all done to contain FRP dust in a shop? My shop and I are in a neighborhood with people living very close by, I don't want to vent directly outside.
I have a another floor above me, kind of a attic, I was thinking of putting a large dust collector system up there with a very large settling box. Any thoughts?
upon water lines... now that I have ground, sanded and faired, I am thinking about the process of adding the barrier coat below the waterline and how I will lose the scribed line. So, I grabbed a laser from work to see what I was up against..
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psgsva7s0n.jpg
however, after leveling the boat and lining up the laser as best I could... the molded/scribed line is either screwy or I am. Maybe a little hard to tell, but the scribed line is higher than the laser at the mid point.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psvsk5nnh7.jpg
pretty neat how the scribed line actually makes a deviation from the actual waterline near the rudder. This, I know, was purposeful to create a beautiful waterline. But the above picture... im not sure.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psv5ogpy8o.jpg
Anyway, when I barrier coat the raw fiberglass I am going to lose the waterline mark. Is it weird that I want to use the "string & batter board" method? As done by Tim Lackey and Louis Sauzedde, instead of using a laser? Just seems like a puff of wind or a curious kitten knocking the laser is going to ruin my day, whereas a string and some tape could be edited. Either way, I will need to take measurements from the toe rail at various points.
and thinking seriously about a bowsprit. The biggest reason is to push the COE forward to balance the boat a bit and reduce weather helm. So far, im thinking 18" or less.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps4jcr49j3.jpg
with a tow rail cap, currently mocked up in foam, and a winch (windlass?)
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psbvw93ynr.jpg
The SS oval tube is just some scrap material I had lying around at work... I liked the shape.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psfcned4mi.jpg
Looks good. Nice work space.
- Are you going to barrier coat below the waterline and above the waterline? If so you may want to do it in two steps. One method is before you barrier coat the top transfer the waterline onto the bottom. Take a carpenters square and lay the short edge on the waterline then make a 4-5" line and reference mark exactly 10" down the long edge of the square. Do this every 6". To transfer the line back just take the square, lay it on the line and make a mark 10" up from the reference mark. Stretch some fine line tape between the marks and you have the waterline back. It is really tricky to get the right shape near the transom. You should go closer than 6" apart there. When I stretched the tape I had to find the line that looked right. I used the marks for reference. I had a committee of onlookers drinking beers that were more than happy to render opinions.
- I like the bowsprit. I'm looking at the removable Selden model. It is super simple to install, removable and pretty affordable. I can get you deal on one if you are interested.
http://www.seldenmast.com/files/1441.../595-261-E.pdf
Phil
You've done an amazing job removing the gelcoat from the bottom.
Seems essential to roll on a 2-part barrier coat. Polyester frp is porus, the fibers
need protecting.
Barrier coat could be clear, covering every square inch of what you took off.
Maybe a couple coats. Paint cosmetic, coatings structural.
Then add more barrier but make it white up to the upper scribe line.
(assume its top of the boot stripe.)
Then use that lazer to relocate the actual waterline, especially under the stern.
Imco, what you've removed (microns) should be put back.
If the bottom paint ever gets stripped, it'll be good to see the white when sanding.
Maybe a couple coats.
When the hull gets painted, undercoat will go down to upper scribe to keep
awlgrip out of the water. Assume you'll have an enamel boot-top.
My late model Ariel has a thin hull below the WL. I felt OK with
multiple epoxy coats.
Missed it on my Ariel, but I should have used a tank coating for the barrier,
which generally is a tougher more waterproof epoxy.
Beautiful oval stainless! Maybe you won't need 'shrouds'/whiskers?
Looks like you'll need a new bow stay fitting. Wonder what your solution
will be there? Like the built up toerail, as well!!
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~
Was just talking with PaulOman at Epoxyproducts.com. Asked him what happened to the
NSP120 tank coating I used as a barrier years ago on A-338. It has become a pauloman
brand (something new!) called Watergard 300 one coat. It's sold as a coating for tanks
and as a barrier coat. Loads of info on his site and the coating. It is its own primer, and
already white. He probably told me to use the old tank coat as a barrier...
Ask him whether you can overcoat without toothing. Recommend at least three on a full
keel bottom!! Make sure coating is non-blush.* No professional coating will require you
to wash cured surface before adding the next coat. That's a fact! *Later Edit: you know,
rereading this, it occurs to me I read this coating will blush at certain times. Watch your
humidity. If it's low in relation to temp, you won't have a problem.
COATING THICKNESS: 1000mils = 1" Gelcoat was probably 20mils ???
{Credit card is 30mils thick.}
1/16" = 62.5 mils(two mm) --- 1/32" = 31.25 mils(one mm) --- 1/64" = 15.6 mils.
Average thickness of two part 100% solids, epoxy coating, too thick to roll = 8mils ???
(hope this is useful)
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ ~~~~~
When I was trying to figure out weights involved with various bowsprit materials,
I started with long pole sprits that I've always found sexy. Mental picture of a pre
fiberglass gaff cutter. But when sweating weights, ended up with a shortened sprit
on deck -- which is possible when the sprit is rigged as a permanent part of the stay
system. Could remove inboard weight, keep the outboard length, but move the
'samson post' way forward. The post meaning, where you have the end of the spar
at refusal. Understand it's an aesthetic problem as well as practical, but imco our
boats are rather delicate when it comes to added weight out at the ends. Believe
you will have some beautiful welding to do when you incorporate the oval tube into
the bow stay fitting = more weight. Bobstay and any anchoring roller, chocks and
pulpit. But it IS a champion bowsprit you got there!!!
A quick thanksgiving update to the bowsprit. The basic idea is that the stem head fitting will be bolted down to the bow in the usual manner and the bowsprit will bolt to the top of the stem head fitting via 3, 1/2x13 bolts. I have yet to figure out the 'cranse iron' which will be welded to the end of the bowsprit to attach the shrouds and bobstay. Since the bowsprit is bolted I can modify or replace if necessary.
Also, near the 'sampson post' I will have a fitting to accept a removable solent stay for heavy weather. This is not going to be a cutter rig, however I want the option for a smaller sail in heavy weather. The top of solent stay would be attached near the masthead, so that I would not need to have running backstays.
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psnfrqzvb3.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...ps10xhys7q.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...psr6xy1qv9.jpg
http://i1354.photobucket.com/albums/...pscgqtrbo9.jpg
Very Cool. Why don't you make it an articulating prod? You can pivot on the headstay post.
Seem to be out of the loop here. But I've been looking at the Trogear A-sprit. Two tubes
ideally coming from the bow slightly below the toe rail frpm either side of the bow. Can
be mounted on top. The A frame legs have only 15 degrees of separation, making it quite
narrow. Have not trialed with mockups but believe it won't go much further inboard than
12/14", where it will have a fiberglass tube and a long 1/2" bolt from side to side so that
the sprit canbe raised and bungeed to the stay. Has a 1/2 bolt thru holding the Sprit
weighs 5lbs.
The bobstay is shown in the literature is a modern guntackle - led aft to the cockpit! In
preliminary emails with Trogear, it is possible even to have a 'simple' rod bobstay, no
turnbuckle and chain. Don't know yet how actually it's rigged. But like the simplicity.
My mast has what I think is a true Solent tang about 18" below the masthead fitting.
That stay will go to the stem fitting. Think it possible to rig this stay permanently,not
readily removable. And have reefer/furlers on both stays, or a hanked on staysl and self
contained asymetricals or screechers with their own attached furlers...?
Also, the top long bronze bolt of the original stem fitting that goes thru the fitting to pop
out conveniently on deck is the strongest method I've ever seen. I had mine recast with a
fatter five-hole fin to take pin and stay loads better. Original toggle holes were elongated.
Those Trogear A-sprits are extravagant. Already have a self designed aluminum sprit that
I really like. But it's too heavy for the bow, too much for the boat. Shave 20lbs first off
on bowsprit alone. 5lbs, or more, on lighter bobstay gear. Anchor gear on deck will be
easier and maybe lighter with the bowsprit free and not part of foredeck clutter.
If I keep the hinge-up option for the A-sprit, the sprit can be folded up to pulpit making
sail attachment and retrieving easy. Something recent events make quite necessary.
"Easy does it, and if you can't go easy, go as easy as you can." Gertrude Stein
Couple coats Aluthane will make that $$$$$ snooty black carbon tube look like a good ole
aluminum spar!! Imco.
CARBONSOUP________________________________________ __________________________________
From the future: 10/19/21
The Trogear wishbone bowsprit is indeed an expensive and gorgeous piece of work. And
I did coat it with that amazing Aluthane, to me still great inventions. Hasse cruising sails
still need a bowsprit but also a place for an anchor-roller. Trogear allows no space for a
cruising anchor system - it had to go.
It's taken me literally FOREVER to get Litlgull ready to leave the Bay. I've stopped work
an embarrasing number of times. I've gotten older as well.
But discovered the dream is in my blood. There's nothing else but declining in a rocking
chair. End as a nasty curmudgeon with alzheimers or parkingsons or canser. 1/2 way there.
Urge Skipper Soup, below in these posts, to immediately launch A97 ang go sailing. Spruce
the ship up a bit - that would attract a partner.
Our Ariels and Commanders are foremost a form of ENERGY, Carbon you can't quit now!!!!!
wow, that is a nifty bowsprit, though I dont see what the pivot is about. The Trogear is a pretty nice bit of kit as well. However, I am making a permanent bowsprit for the forestay. Currently, I have decided to set the distance at 18" from the bow, nothing extreme. As I said, I am trying to balance the rig a bit without having to shorten the sail area... some of you all are probably rolling your eyes. Nonetheless, I work at a metal fab shop and so far this little experiment has cost me nothing.
as a side note.. I am taking on more side work (design & fabrication) as I begin transitioning myself towards opening my own shop, so if any of you guys have some fab work let me know. For example, one thing I was thinking of making extra are some SS trim rings for the aluminum opening ports. The cast aluminum trim rings that I have are in many pieces. I am going to laser cut 12ga SS ovals... when I get a chance
Talk about nifty. Laser cut, I don't know the machine. Is it like a CNC that you program with
a computer / Shop here has one of those (personally don't know how to program any
computer) but it cuts with regular milling bits. What I'm asking: can you program individual
jobs? I had my aluminum opening ports powder coated. Because the coating is relatively
thick the trim ring now no longer slips over the spigot. Everything could remain the same
spec but the inside oval has to be slightly bigger, maybe a 1/32" all round. Would you
provide the fastener holes also?
The Troger A-Sprit can be mounted on deck, or as it happens, on the molded toerails, at
that height. That means one can micro adjust how much the bowsprit will project out.
They have end fittings. The preferred way is to mount the A-frame outside of the toerails.
Because the A-Sprit 15degree angle is not adjustable, that means because it is narrow it
is fastened pretty much forward on the bow. And down enough so the a fiberglass tube is
glassed in thru the bow (when you look into the forepeak you'll see it). A long bolt, possibly
threaded rod holds and hinges the spirit on, so it pivots. Or you can permanently mount it.
I had some preliminary email discussion with one of the A-Sprit designsers about permanently
mouinting the sprit. My thought is that carbon tubes are not really good in compression.
So I understand. But did get qan OK to use their thicker wall tube model... at a thicker
price. But then it occurred to me to axe the Solent idea, and use the inner forestay to rig
that mast at higher tensions.. And use the jibstay with light weather larger sails with the
sheet winches. Like the idea of folding the sprit up to the pulpit and attaching or removing
sails. And paying less for footage rent in marinas.
Best of luck with your new business!!!
You start making S.S. port lites I might be interested in a set.
ugh. its been a while since i have worked on the boat, even though I see it everyday sitting in my shop. Even more annoying is Photobucket forcing me to pay for 3rd party hosting of all the build images.... so lame. I was emailed by a gentleman who wanted to see some of the images of the build, I had not put 2+2 together to figure out why he was not able to view the images on the forum.
anyone have a silver bullet? if someone can give me a good solution I swear I will do some work on the boat!
Man, it has been forever! thank god Photobucket hasnt completely deleted my photos....
However, because I wanted to share ALL of the photos, models, drawings and data of the rebuild of A97 I have uploaded them to to my google drive.
https://drive.google.com/drive/folde...vh?usp=sharing
Contents:
1 - Spec Drawings
cleaned up original "lines" drawings
vector files of the "lines" drawings
original/novel interior drawings
3D models
2 - Construction photos
pretty self explanatory
3 - Electric Conversion
Useful calculator and electric info (as of 2014)
Custom electric drive mount (drawings and model)
4 - Logo Emblem
Original Ariel emblem pattern in PDF (vector file editable with adobe illustrator)
various logo images
5 - Rigging
v1 New mast head sheave box designed by Destiny (mike)
v2 Newest mast head design with "over-under" sheave placement.
Other various rigging info
7 - Trailer
Trailer design and info
construction images
8 - 1960s Brochure
Original artwork and brochure of the pearson ariel
9 - Previous Owners
1st and 2nd owner images
I guess it would be obvious, but I havent had the opportunity to work on the boat in a very long time. It has been sitting in storage for the last 2 years.... and I dont think I will be returning to finish the job unless I get some renewed motivation. If someone is interested to purchase or partner in completing the project please dont hesitate to contact me. The boat is ready to roll (anywhere in the country).
best, matt
https://drive.google.com/file/d/1j2V...ew?usp=sharing
The retrofit, list, in no particular order:
1. Interior completely deleted and replaced with a unique design suitable for two to cruise Maine to the Bahamas. all interior plywood Okume BS1088 marine grade plywood. Sleeping for 4 (1 bunk under cockpit, large double in main salon, 1 bunk in bow) 85% complete
2. Retrofitted Four-Winns trailer motor boat trailer (2 axle w/disk brakes and pivoting tongue) 100% complete
3. Custom electric drive mount w/ 8.5K electric motor (complete electric motor kit has been mounted and test fit, but never tested/run), 75%
4. new PPY no drip drive shaft, 100%
5. new cutlas bearing, 100%
6. hull/deck seam fiberglassed, 100%
7. deck recored (previous owner), 100%
8. new stainless steel prop shaft, 100%
9. 3 blade (12x) prop, 100%
10. new main 4:1 sheet w/curved main sheet traveler, ready for mount
11. curved jib sheet tracks, ready for mount
12. rudder, completely new w/original bronze tiller shaft. needs final fiber and fairing. 90%
13. mail sail, brand new (used a dozen times) Beacon Sails in Annapolis
14. hull mounted chain plates (interior), 90%
Extras:
1. I started designing / fabricating a bowsprit (18”) from 316 Stainless steel to help with the weather helm.
What she needs:
1. rebuild cockpit coamings. I have 5/4 mahogany planks ready with pattern.
2. complete wiring, including electric drive integration and batteries.
3. needs all new lighting
4. electric drive testing
5. Remounting of all the original hardware
7. The boat needs top side paint and deck painted.
Basically, I would like to “finish” the boat by getting the boat ready to drop in the water. After that, it would be up to you to finish the interior and get the rest of the systems running.
How much:
1. I have no idea.
2. I might be interested in partnerships….