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Here is a trick that worked like a champ
While doing the second area of the recore and at a point where I needed to mix up some thickened epoxy anyway I decided to do the cutout for the water tank deck fill. I was pleasantly suprised to find solid balsa in this area but that meant I needed to figure out a good way to dig out the balsa around the perimeter of the opening back approx 1/2" so the screws holding the deck fill in place would not be in balsa.
I came up with a slotted cutter on the trim router that worked like a champ as you can see below.
The last picture is the area I'm currently working on.
1/4" top bearing slotting bit?
Jerry, That's indeed a gudun! Slot cutter on the trimrouter.
Don't want to hiccup undercutting that hole, you must have nerves of fiberglass.
Most if not all trimrouters are 1/4" collet.
And you had to have used a cutter with the bearing on top of the blade.
And you had to have first cleared the hole out with a topbearing plunge cutter inside a pattern.
(think that's how aye would have approached it! ) Holesaw?
Catalog time of year....
a current MLCSWoodworking.com, don't recall ordering from them....
BUT they haven't got anything like you must have used there. Nor does an old Eagle catalog.
So you must have a Whiteside or one of the big boys. Can't be Freud, Bosch or Grizzly.
Just found an old CMT(OrangeTools), but their topbearing slotters are all 1/2" shank.
So, tell us what the bit is........pulease!:cool:
What's your trim router? ( I have a Bosch with a catchy name(?) It has an alternate opensided base that has come in handy for close work (get to SEE the bit going round!). But with a slotting cutter?:eek:)
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What my new furler looks like....
Well actually a good sailing friend of mine asked me to build him a couple of window seats for his house in Charlotte Harbor. The deal was he would pay for the materials and I would supply the labor and in exchange he would buy me a furler. So these are the window seats I built him and in the process I learned how to do cane work which I intend to incorporate in Destiny's interior.
And the link is to the Harken MKIV unit 0 that I'm getting as part of the deal.
http://www.harkenstore.com/uniface.u...=409Z56LC6PSTM
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Guys I'm sorry for the slow response....
Been a little crazy here with very little "free" time.
Ebb
If I radius the edges of the cheek plates (which is how I had them made) I cannot weld the assembly into a solid box that slides into the mast without making the vertical slot that is cut out of the mast very wide and thereby making the top of the mast weak.
Your suggestion is making me contemplate more options however because I am not pleased with the way things are going together with my current plan. And some sort of box assembly that bolts into the mast would strengthen the top of the mast and allow for better placement of the sheeves. I'm back to the drawing board.
Mike
Sadly no I have not made a lot of progress on Destiny lately. With my friend Tim's project, both of my daughters buying new homes and the moving process I need to help with not to mention the time spent with the grandkids Destiny has been sitting idle for a while. I was able to accomplish a few things that did not require large blocks of my time. I had the 50 or so misc. holes in the mast that I don't want there going forward welded up. I also had the cheek plates made but need to go back to the drawing board on that (see above). I had the fixed goosneck and pivoting vang brackets made (see pictures below) and got the new standing rigging bought and here. As soon as both of my daughters are completely moved and settled I am itching to get back to working on her though.
Ben
Thanks for the complement, the caning process is not as hard as you might imagine. The single biggest secret to making the job come out well is soaking the cane in water for a minimum of 30 minutes prior to installation. This expands the cane and makes it plyable. If it is not soft enough it will break the fibers as you roll the cane into the groove. And as it dries after the cane has been installed it shrinks back and stretches tight. So tight that in my learning process I had to remake one panel. The cane actually cracked the rail in one of the panels by stretching tight as it dried.
Mbd
Thank you also for the complement.
Pictures below are 1.) the cheek plates I had made. 2.) The new pivoting vang bracket of which there are two because my vang will be cascading. and 3.) The new fixed goosneck bracket
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Redesigned pully bracket assembly
Well I redesigned the mast head pully block assembly and I think this one will get the job done. Once installed i believe it will actually strengthen the top of the mast and it can be easily removed for inspection and repair.
The first picture is the bracket I had the local sheet metal shop make. The second shows how it goes into the masthead. The third shows how it will be heald in place during use.
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Mike it was a combination of drawing and show and tell
Here are the drawings I gave him.
I also gave him a full scale profile of the mast section so he could tell how to bend the plates that hold the assembly in the mast. My drawing does not show it but I had him drill and tap for the 6 screws where the two loose plates that lock it into the mast attach to the welded stainless assembly. Tapping the stainless is a lot easier when someone else does it. :)
BTW I ended up going to a larger diameter sheeve than the Harken one I first bought. I ended up using the Ronstan RF1767 sheeve that has just shy of 2" diameter.
The fabricator I used was a company called Day Metal Products and I dealt with the owner who's name is Bobby Day. The Company is located in Brooksville, FL and the phone number is 352-799-9258.
Tell Bobby that if he does not have enough information in his file to build yours that he can call me and I will bring my parts back to him to use as a sample.
Also one thing I would do differantly if doing it over the plate on the aft side of the mast that locks the assembly into the mast should have longer legs on it to get the screws further away from the slot in the mast. On mine they bottomed out on the welded assembly so I had to add some washers to pull everything tight.
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Contrary to popular belief I have not sailed off the edge of the earth.....
But I do have to admit I have not been around here for some time.
Fall has finally come to Florida and the weather is much better for working on Destiny. When the summer temperatures were 95 degrees every day with 95% humidity (the normal Florida summer weather for about 5 months straight) I have a hard time forcing myself out in the heat to work. And my epoxy allergy forces me to cover up which makes the heat even less inviting. But I have 4 or 5 months of good temperatures ahead of me now so it's back to work.
I have made progress on several fronts since I last posted. The deck recore is completely done now (I'll show some pics of that job in a future post) and I have finished something that was a bit of a challenge to my skills (which means I really enjoyed doing it) Destiny's forward hatch. I wanted to build a frame around the hatch to have something to attach the hardware to and to make it look better.
As I started looking at what I would have to do to make the frame I realized all 4 sides of the opening were different. And the only way I could come up with to make the frame fit the ceiling correctly was to make some 1/4" thick strips and spread glue between them in groups of three and clamp them to the bottom side of the deck around the opening. First I did the 2 sides and after taking them down I did the forward and aft sides of the opening.
Now I had the 4 pieces that would make up the frame in a very rough form. I shaped them enough so I could cut mortises where the frame parts came together and used loose tenons to join the 4 pieces together. At this point I had a very rough frame that all 4 sides curved at a different radius. The center of the frame was smaller than the opening in the deck for the hatch which was by design.
I shaped the outside edges of the frame and did some preliminary sanding. Then I glued the frame to the bottom side of the deck with thickened epoxy. After the epoxy dried and I could remove the clamps I ground the inside of the frame flush with the vertical lip of the hatch opening. Because the fiberglass was curved as it transitioned to the vertical lip there was a V shaped area that I had to fill with thickened epoxy. After that dried and I could sand it smooth I glassed in the inside perimeter of the deck opening from the top of the lip to the bottom of the wood. This strengthened the lip area and finished everything off.
Here are a couple of pictures of the completed project.
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One of the things I really like...
about quarter sawn mahogany is the ribbon stripped apearance.
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Starting to look like an inboard drive :-)
This afternoon I got the motor shaft lined up with the prop shaft and connected the two. Everything appears to be where it belongs with the prop and everything else so now I can glass in the shaft log.
I feel your pain brother.
Sounds like you've got your mind right... You'll never be able to sell it for more than half what you've got into it. And all your labor? HA!
You're building what you want for you. It's a labor of love all the way.
We're not alone in this however. I was at a car show and saw a T bucket for sale for $12,000. It was a work of art. He had over $30,000. Into it and every weekend for the last 5 years.
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OK since you had suggestions on the hardware how about the sails?
I have not placed the order on my sails as of yet so if you guys have some suggestions now would be the time to let me know.
I have attached a PDF of the specs I have put together for the sailmaker to price from. If you have suggestions please let me know.
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Making dividers to keep stuff from falling into the keel
Forward one is held in with wing nuts and the back one where I should not need to access is just screwed in.
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Destiny's Bling is back from the plater
And they did a REALLY nice job. If you need some plating done I would recommend these folks.
http://spacecoast-plating.com/index....mation/contact
There is one before picture (the last one) and two after.