Holes in my head (liner)?

I intend to throughbolt through the wood on the interior, it may not have come through on the drawing I posted (scanner doesn't work so well sometimes). I want the assembly to be a strong as possible. I prefer to be pushed if I get hit versus having a hull / deck joint that might crack and open. My engineer friend thinks that if she took a "bow on" impact, the the assembly would be strong enough such that she would be pushed instead of cracked.
Joe
btw how's the weather up there in my old home area??

as you build a sub-safe boundary at the hull deck joint, don't forget the hull is 3/8th inch or so, just below the joint. you'll get all the strength you can effectively use by just bonding the outside of the joint with glass....

Once you get started, we'll all want to see pictures...

ps. southern newengland weather this AM: temps mid 60's, humidity low, unlimited visibility.

I will consider that. There are many ways to proceed to achieve the desired end result and all will be considered and the numbers will be appropriately crunched and engineered before a final decision is made. There will be many pics with narratives on what worked and what didn't. This weekend I will begin drawing the interior layout as she currently is. I will then draw out how the interior "should" be. After that, I will draw out a new deck layout for new stanchions, lifelines, etc. When the drawings are finished. I'm going to have my architect friend work up a final blueprint set for me. There will be drawings of all the wiring as well. Thanks for the weather report; the wether in Tulsa Oklahoma this morningat 0800: 78 deg. wind S at 22 gusts to 37 and unbelievably humid.
Joe

I agree 100% with bill - with this extension:

Unless you are gutting the boat, prepping the inside of the toerail cove is exceeding tedious and nearly impossible in some places. 100 backing blocks or fender washer seats for a rub rail can be scrapped clean enough for individual fastenings using 5200. But what a job! Can't forget each fastening is a potential future leak.

Glassing the join from the outside is less crazy and much more controlable. And more practical. My guess is that you could get total monoque strength on that joint with 1/8" laminate (maybe 2" wide) with first class epoxy.

In joe's case, him wanting bulwarks and all, once you see that you can get the boat joined properly, you can then think about how to create a base for that rather tall bulwark extension. My opinion is, by analyzing the toerail along the extent of the Ariel, that you have essentially NO useful overlap of the hull/deck possible with the addition of the exterior bulwark. Not gonna happen. All of the length of the bulwark will bear only on the 1 1/2" more-or-less vertical face of the molded toerail.

As an idea:rolleyes: of what might be done is to bring the seam repair laminate up above the top of the toerail in the form of a 'T'. That is: create an extention of wider backing for the wood bulwark by using the top of the toerail to tie it to the sheer. This extension could be as tall or short as desired. Wouldn't have to be thicker than 1/4" of epoxy/glass laminate. I would naturally keep it below the top of the finished wood. But still allow mechanical screw thru fastening like 1/4" bolts thru the vertical part of the 'T'. A trim piece of the same material as the bulwark could be added afterwards along the top of the 'T' extension. That is, along the top of the molded toerail and along the bulwark, hiding the tie-in leg completely and any fastenings used to hold the bulwark.

The added trim piece along the top of the toerail would add bulk and stiffness to the bulwark and after glued and screwed together make for a "PUSH" installation.

A boss mahogany bulwark would look so fine!

__________________________________________________ __________________________________________
As you know, probably, Little Gull has its mahogany toerail extension (its a bulwark) put on the top of the existing molded toerail. In section, it tapers from 1" at the toerail to mostly 3/4" on top. They are about 3" tall at the front to about 2" tall at the stern. Conceptually I could never have imagined anything smaller or narrower - though the dimensions had a lot to do with the washers in the boltholes on top.

However, actually, the damn things are surprisingly MASSIVE and strong. I might have forgotten that the bending of wood adds hugely to its natural strength. It could have been much thinner. Really! Not to think of what weight has been added.

I would keep the scantlings of the bulwards as skinny as possible.:D

Hi EB, the entire interior Will be gutted, all the way to glass. I think that perhaps my first drawing was not too great, here is an improved drawing, I hope it more clearly explains the idea.
Joe