Ebb, you do know you need to lower the pitch of the prop for pushing an Ariel around . Too much pitch and the motor wont rev and wont develop all 8hp . Did you get the 'Hi-thrust' model , it may come with a lower prop , you should check .
Mike
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Ebb, you do know you need to lower the pitch of the prop for pushing an Ariel around . Too much pitch and the motor wont rev and wont develop all 8hp . Did you get the 'Hi-thrust' model , it may come with a lower prop , you should check .
Mike
I got this here 'hi-thrust' model. The kicker's aimed at the sailboat market. The blades look pretty flat to me. If I knew what to measure I'd tell ya, and I'll be looking here to find out what you find out I hope. NICE unit.:cool:
It's most likely a 6 or 6.5" , you should be in great shape with that .
I see what you mean about hilarious. I used a bit too much, actually, a lot too much (being mathematically challenged), the first time so it was extra hilarious for me.Quote:
Originally posted by commanderpete
Just did this project.
This stuff is pretty hilarious to work with. Like a science project.
I didn't see the drain holes you talked of--where are they?
I'll be fiberglassing over the holes in the top next.
Robin
Could I please have a show of hands for resin encapsulated ping pong balls?
Seriously...
Sorry, I know my compacted prose style is difficult,
There is, of course, only one drain hole in the lazarette. Almost an after thought in 338, it's right behind the clamping board in the middle. Raw, unlined, 3/4" hole drilled thru the laz deck, thru the board and thru the well.
(Drain holes, plural, please ignore. Unless you are removing the foam and leaving the OB clamping board and the fill-work just forward of it next to the bulkhead. I haven't removed this yet in 338 and is where we found puddles on either side when we removed the foam on either side.
IMHO you cannot run an OB without the deck and the foam unless you engineer structural bracing for the motor-mount to spread the vibration of the motor thruout the compartment. The narrow area behind the board seems like it would be naturally made solid. You would then be left with two areas to be drained, if they were left hollow.)
PING PONG BALLS. What a great idea! Might even mix in a little microballoon into the resin?
I'm persuaded. I'd rather go back to the original solid Pearson lazarette deck concept. This could be the way.
As ebb says, there is just the one drain tube, located under where the outboard is clamped in.
I finished cleaning up that drain tube. From what I can tell, it was just a hole cut through the fiberglass. The tube then runs through wood between the inner and outer skins of fiberglass.
There were some gaps where the wood met the fiberglass. Water was definitely getting in there.
I sanded out the tube with a sanding attachment for the drill, applied penetrating epoxy sealer for the wood, and then filled the gaps with thickened epoxy.
The original drain fix in #76 was only a section of 1/4" brass tubing. Had it removed and replaced with 1" tubing. There was no water egress from the original tubing. The cracks where the plywood lazerette sole meets the stern bulkhead were another matter.
I KNEW I had read this here... :DQuote:
Originally Posted by noeta-112
(bump).
Seriously,
PPBalls is a good idea! But being spheres they have a lot of volume BETWEEN them that would use up too much epoxy gel filling a couple cubic feet of space.
I haven't experimented yet with this idea. When I mentioned filling spaces in #338 once at my plastic supply, styrofoam pellets came up. They would pack closer and the epoxy gel could probably be a little looser. And the material might flow better into small spaces. But PPBalls could be added to such a mix.
Should experiment, plastic is heavy stuff.
While in the midst of a haul out, I decided to do something about the lazy-rat drain.
Sometimes when or sailing hard or motoring above 5 knots, if the stern squats the lazy-rat will fill with water and my fuel tank, 2 stroke oil bottle, funnel and whatever else will float around until I slow down.
I have noticed that there are times when it would drain, but can not because of the smallish drain (mine is about 3/4”).
I used a 2” hole saw to cut around the current drain hole, and then used a rasp to taper the edges of the hole. I then sawed a piece of 1 ½” fiberglass pipe at a shallow angle, rotated the ends and epoxy and glassed them back together to make this;
http://sailfar.net/gallery/albums/us..._Drainpipe.jpg
I pulled out all the foam I could reach through the holes and was surprised to find it was damp, but neither was it saturated or did it smell of gas. One of #226’s prior owners had overlain the lazyrat floor with glass years ago, and while the poured resin had not held, the glass apparently had done a pretty good job of protecting the floor.
I then foamed the new pipe in place, and when the foam hardened I chipped it out for an inch or so on the top and the bottom around the pipe. I laid thickened epoxy into this void, to secure the new pipe.
http://sailfar.net/gallery/albums/us...ulout_0028.JPG
I will let you know how it works.
I have a plug for the well, and plan to use it on corssings. The drain opens into the cut out for the plug, but of course would not seal it.
I purchased one of these;
http://www.hardwarestore.com/media/p...1_front200.jpg
To cap off the top of the drain when the plug is in place.... it is mild steel, but with some grease it should work ok for it's purpose.
I know I wrote up and posted my last lazy rat repair some time in 2oo3...? It appears to have been lost.
Not all together a bad thing.
Some time in 03/04 I noticed the prior owner had done some type of repair to the lazy-rat. I went over what he did, and added to it. painted and called it good.
But over time a persistent problem has shown it's self.
When sailing in heavy seas, or motoring hard... I would find a trickle of water on the sole.
Today, while exploring I decided to tear into the flange where the outboard goes. It has been sealed well on the sides, I will smooth that and fair it out with thickened epoxy.
The front has a but of a low spot, and jamming a screw driver in there over and over brought up bits of the foam that the Pearson Brothers put in there.
I am not too interested in removing the floor of the lazy-rat. I am going to grind everything down and seal the corners with proper filers of epoxy... then probably overlay those edges with mat.
THe area behind the well, is hard to get to.... I played with it a bunch tonight. I actually found some of the grey fairing filler in there. Not sure if water got in in behind it... but I will route that all out. and try to fair thicked epoxy into the grove. I have actually considered using marinefiller to completely fill this void up to the edge of the well.
Thinking of doing likewise to the sides, they seem to hold water... I would rather they drain to the drain pipe.
Have any of you ever done a really good re-work of this without going the whole way and removing the floor of the lazy rat?
litlgull has a rework done of the of the lazy rat deck.
I found water sodden urethane foam in there that stank of gasoline..
Can't remember what condition the BULKHEAD was in.
Assume that it had a layer of polyester and mat or cloth on it - because I don't remember any rot.
Found this bulkhead to be the worst fitted of all the Pearson bulkheads in the boat.
The tabbing inside under the cockpit hid huge gaps in the plywood at the hull that had roving stuffed in still waiting to be wetout!
It would seem possible, if you wanted to do surgery
- after you grinded everything down -
to cut the deck out using a mutimaster type tool.
CUT IT OUT LEAVING A 1 1/2" LEDGE ALL ROUND.
to which you glue the new ply deck to.
You'd have a lot of fun scooping out 45 year old foam and what ever else has collected in there.
Assume the foam is compromised.
Get to see what going on down in the corners.
Fit the new top, GLUE IT IN,
drill some holesaw holes for pouring in 2-part foam and some vent holes in far corners. Screw lids wrapped in seran wrap on over the big holes as fast as you can!
Watch the foam exit the little holes.
Then seal the new deck with glass and tabbing.
It would be very strong and last another 45 years.
Could make any upgrades, maybe beef up the OB motor mount and glass the hell out of it too.
Maybe make adjustments if using a contemporary 4stroke.
So much fun.:D
That area behind the collar is a pain to work on and your idea of filling it in has my vote. How about fill the sides and back with foam, shave and sand it down to the level you like, then glass over it?Quote:
Originally Posted by c_amos
And I have to agree with Ebb 100% regarding the bulkhead that separates the lazer..laterzz... the lazy rat from the spcae below the cockpit. There were BIG gaps and the layer of fiberglass had a big ol' wrinkle in it resulting in a clear passage for water in the lazy rat to migrate forward. As I recall, that was a very, very 'not so much fun' spot to work in.
Honestly Craig, I can't imagine why your retabb job on all the seams wouldn't work. Many times it seems the best way is to tear it out and do it over, but, if you can do it by hitting just the edges more power to you! Then you'll have more time to sail.