an idea for cockpit drains
Craig, sir,
Could think a tad more extreme about this drain problem.
Which is, as I understand it, how to drain the cockpit WITHOUT UNDERWATER HOSE EXITS.
The drains Pearson traditionally installed are ALWAYs filled with water.
You can almost hear the reasoning why seacocks were never installed.
One reason, of course, was the contortions the short hose would be put to making the connects from seacocks to the drain flanges.
The original glassed in standpipes point vaguely at the cockpit drain flanges.
If that bothers you then the radical fix is to put a 90 'L' fitting right below the cockpit drain exit
and simply run hose horizontally along the bulkhead over to thruhulls in each side.
Where they drain thru the hull above or within the boot stripe.
Instead of a 90, we could put in a T on each drain and connect the drains across the middle.
Any water captured inside the hose when the boat is heeled will drain out the low side.
You will essentially see daylight if you eyeball through the starboard hull exit across to the port exit.
litlgull has aft cockpit exits using these 90 degree L's. Had to get them as high as I could.
The damn cockpit deck tilts forward!!! Ended up gluing the fittings in without the extra flange. The fitting's molded end is actually at deck level inside the cockpit. Can touch the inside of the fitting with a finger- as high as possible.
Minor problem is that the thruhull entering inside will point at a slight angle toward the bulkhead. The hose will have to bend away from the bulkhead and meet the thruhull in a soft curve. Don't know how much, just visualizing. But the thruhull will have to be a certain small distance aft of the bulkhead.
If you are a purist you'll probably install seacocks* - that would put the thruhull further aft and the hose curve further away from the protection of the bulkhead. Thinking what gear might get caught on the hose in the lockers.
Could install this cross drain accessing through the locker lids. Difficult but Doable.
The thruhulls outside could have a protruding bottom lip that cuts the draining water and discourages it from running down the hull if you exit above the boot stripe. Probably unlikely.
The thruhulls could possibly exit just ABOVE the bootstripe. That is if they are naturally LEVEL at that point or slant downward a bit. At level, water being water still drains out of a tube or scupper, slanting isn't absolutely necessary except for drain speed. Athwartship hoses and tubes will empty at the slightest tip of the boat..
If the drains are connected across the middle (certainly this would be quite unusual) there would NEVER be water in the tubes (as long as the boat is floating and sailing above her waterline.
Well prepared UV pvc 90's or T's could be used - if using epoxy to glue things to the cockpit deck.
A better bond might be got with 5200 or Sikaflex 291.
I'm assuming you will want larger drain openings?....
Could do a dry run with mailing tubes and blue tape.
Easy to imagine this installation done in all hard pipe - with the pipe going straight thru the hull without a fitting, like the rudder tube or the original thruhole cockpit drain standpipes.
But the Ariel cockpit hangs non supported in the Pearson installation and therefor has some, if slight, movement. Therefor the more dicey use of hose has to be factored in.
Perhaps the install hose could be protected with a shelf or ledge on the bulkhead just under the hose to act as a shield.
[Have not described here the traditional cross drains that usually exited underwater in wooden boats. This idea would have the exits above the waterline just below the level of the cockpit - actually close to the bootstripe. The remodeler would have to stabilized the hanging cockpit, or use
heavy rubber hose and thru-hulls. The idea will have to accept NO seacocks. But they could be put in if accessable. Much easier would be aft
drains straight thru hard plumbed.
I'm in total agreement that the galley sink drains to its own seacock - and can always be closed OFF!
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* cheaper and lighter nylon seacocks might be good here.
Shut off valves or no. HOSE ballet
Hey, Captain Craig, life seems to be treating you well!
I think the Pearson solution for cockpit drains is perfect for what they did. Any upgrade will take time, materials. Perhaps it depends on whether the boat is going offshore. Pearson did what they did, imco, because legitimate drain hose can't make the bends and turns if seacocks are installed.
So, it is possible to come up with something: strong hose to a strong thru-hull, all stainless clamps, a couple of softwood emergency plugs available right there, etc.
Can't remember, but I believe the original cockpit drains are 1½". Imco, that's minimum and should be maintained.
Any decision has to take into account that the Pearson hull drains are underwater. Murphy's Law applies.
Trident makes specific cockpit drain hose which may be flexible enough to be bent between the cockpit and a short bronze seacock. Therefor, it possible to replace the hull-drain hole, where it now is, with a thru-hull fitting of nylon or bronze - and sometime later upgrade by adding the valve. Making it easy on yourself or the next owner.
Same applies to the sink. If you have a regular marine sink, why not plumb the diameter of the drain to the same size thru-hull or seacock? I don't think it matters what you go with - except smaller D specific drain hose probably bends easier. But it is a very good idea to have a dedicated drain system for the sink, NOT sharing drains with the cockpit. When you plumb to a seacock, you can change perishable hose for permanent hose afloat.
In a real world situation, when your cockpit hose suddenly lets go, Will you have the mental where-with-all to comprehend what's happening when you look below through the companionway... and see water sloshing and rising in the aisle....will you be able to get to the drains when you finally realize that's where the water is coming from....will you find the wood bung....if there is a hole for it....maybe a hose clamp is needed, got one?....got access and a driver? .....you know, don't think so.... we have a problem....and the boat is sinking........
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HOSE
It's very easy to make a choice of hose. Of course, if the only thing between you and the deep blue is some plastic or rubber hose, then you better be on speaking terms with the sea-gods. Don't trust what the guy next to you in the marina is using. Don't trust what anybody tells you in the yard. Get marine hose that is specific for the job. We only need a couple feet. Expense be damned. Cockpit drain hose constantly has seawater in it. Automotive waterhose is a rediculous substitute for 'continuous immersion' marine hose. There are people who go offshore with a few microns of good enough plastic tube between them and Disaster Jones. Good enough for them.
Trident Corrugated Marine Wet Exhaust EPDM #252. They have rated vinyl hose like Biilge & Live Well #147 - but vinyl is vinyl and it melts. Problem is that wire helix can rust, so you should coat the wound where you've cut. (might snip sharp end off and apply some Lanocote) If you're looking at other brands, the hose you want is "heavy wall rubber, raw water pickup hose". EPDM is highend plastic/rubber that defies weathering, UV and aging.
Corrugated polyethylene bilge hoses (120, 121) are vulnerable to abrasion.
Ledgendary Trident 101 Sanitation hose (MaineSail* & PeggyHall both recommend it) has a 5 year warranty and lasts far longer. It is a ply EPDM hose with a center plastic helix. Comes only in 1" and 1½". No arguement against it , except that it is not raw-water-intake but sanitation hose. And Trident does not say sanitation hose can't be used below the WL. Expensive - how it compares with other expensive hose is for the skipper to decide.
[*CompassMarine has a DIY on hose. NOTE: that the close up foto of wall difference between Shield & Trident brands shows delamination of rubber layers in the thicker Trident hose. SAE has strict standards for this kind of thing (SAEJ2006) backed by the ABYC. So, make a scene with the supplier when you buy any exhaust hose that looks like plys are not bonded together!]
FisheriesSupply.com has full charts for each hose (incl other brands). Trident BELOW WL EDPM: Soft 110/200 (no wire, short distance, smaller diameters). Wired 100/250 ( long distance, smaller D.) Wired 252 (larger sizes from 1½, corrugated wet exhaust). These are drain and bilge hoses you can take to thru-hulls (not recommended by anyone) and seacocks. Compare prices first with other venders. SailboatOwners.com often has decent prices.
IMCO