Bill,
Does Ballenger have a web site?
Thanks, Jim
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Bill,
Does Ballenger have a web site?
Thanks, Jim
Here's the link...
http://www.sfsailing.com/ballengerspars/
:cool:
As you may have noticed on the net, There are a bunch of enthusiastic Catalina owners, too! Take a look at
www.blumhorst.com/catalina27/mast-repair3.htm
The B hinge plate has 4 pre-drilled holes for machinescrews. The parts were separate again, one here, one down at the boat - my impression is that there isn't much leeway, but a little, to attach the heel to the plate.
I'm working with Dave to get a new billet aluminum one machined. The one i have is a bit corroded, and missing a chunk where the hammer and chisel shouldn't have hit, but did. I think a solid chunk of aluminum, flat top and bottom, so we can bolt the hinge plate to it would be the way to go. Will be plenty of room for the pre-drilled holes to work. My head scratcher right now is how to attach it to the wooden step--lag screws , or thru-bolt to the inside. The wood is in pretty good shape, as is the deck under it, and support beam for what i can tell.
So what do you use on the ss bolts running through the aluminum? Buzz sent me some Lanocote, smells like a sheep! But supposed to be the best for corrosion and lubrication.
One thing nice about the boat--you get tired of sanding, there's always 6 or 10 other projects you can work on! Kinda like the ranch.
Thought i'd post a couple just for fun. My daughter had a new baby this week.
Note the background. Old and factory waterline. There were several bootstripes between. Interesting sanding.
And here i am. Wondering how far to take down the bottom...
most likely when i give out. Good shoulder therapy. I never realized how many overhead horizontal surfaces there were. Do now.
Note sealed up engine well.Almost have the curves right. we're going engineless. Well, i will have some 11' carlisle oars, if i can ever get time to do a serious search for a good deal. I want to show off the world-class stern.:cool:
Willie,
How's this work-I buy a boat two years before you and you're already grinding for paint!!!
Well, you probably been sailin' yers! Hee hee... I'm not doing a complete, total rebuild. My hat is off to you, and the other's (Ebb, and Dave with his Triton... I'm sure there are others too, just haven't read EVERYTHING!! Maybe next winter!
Maybe i just got lucky and got a boat that's still in decent shape. For a few more years anyway. One of these yrs., i'm sure i'll be remodeling. Right now i just want to get her in the water agin, and go SAILING!!!
I got her in Dec., and decided that while she's high and dry on the trailer.....
At the rate i'm goin thru stik-it pads, i think 3m would be a good stock to buy. They sure don't hold an edge long. Maybe i should go for the spendy ones.
Pulled out all the thru-hulls today. Some were vintage '65. Had to grind off a flange or two. Now i got 4 nice holes to fill. Gotta get her streamlined to be a real sailboat.
We're going with Herreshoff's cedar bucket.:rolleyes:
". . . We're going with Herreshoff's cedar bucket." Sounds too expensive. West Marine's small portable head fits perfectly, has ss tie down straps and costs less than cedar these days. :rolleyes:
A couple of years ago I had the pleasure of replacing the mast on my 30' boat. During the process needless to say a learned a bit. The gentleman that gave the advice and tec support was a rigger in the yard, had been a rigger for years. He suggested the I use a 20mm rubber insulating that is used for unsulating gas pipes that are under ground. Local hardware store has it. I used it to insulate the sail track from the mast, works great, and cheap.
On another thought the grease that smells like sheep is sheep grease. This rigger told me about it and he has been using it for 20+ years. Never had thing that he put it on seize. When I checked the shroud fitting when I had the mast down they were coated with that grease and had been that way for about 10 years. Came apart with easy, I regreased them and put it back on the new mast.
I thank you for the talk about the mast step. That is the first project for #75. She should be home next week. I am using a fellow sailors trailer.
michael
AS PER TONY G REQUEST, HERE'S THE MONSTER WINCH PADS. TOO COLD FOR EPOXY YET THIS MORNING.
Should have washed off the paint dust--oh well. She'll be beautiful before long.
a wide angle shot. I like the cleat set up, you can just jam the sheet 'tween it and the business end for a quick hold. fast and easy. Some friends on an Alberg 35 showed me that. Maybe everyone does it, what do i know. This is still new ground for me.
another shot. if you want something specific, let me know. have camera....:cool:
anhydrous lanoline. Local independant pharmacy can special order a one pound jar for $15/$20. Brion Toss probably has a whole page dedicated to its wonders.
While you were talking there about tape, I thought you'ld be mentioning that stretchy self amalgamating stuff I've only heard about. Haven't used yet. Think that would work? The rigging stuff has a smooth outer surface. If you wrap the insert, it would be cool if the mast just slid on without catching or pulling on the insulator. Which might be the problem with rubber.
Maybe if you made a single or double wrap around the mast at the bottom there after the mast is in place and the holes drilled for the screws, you could locate the holes and poke the screws in thereby isolating the screws from the mast. Might work because of the stretchy nature of the tape.
Just an idea.
That rubber tape sounds good, The only pipe wrap I've used is a vinyl wrap for underground black iron gas. Too wide, too thin.
Sounds too expensive. West Marine's small portable head fits perfectly, has ss tie down straps and costs less than cedar these days. :rolleyes: [/B][/QUOTE]
...Or there's those Orange Plastic 5-Gallon buckets from Home Depot for 3.99 (they charge an extra 79 cents for the lid!)...or a 5-gallon green plastic bucket formemrly holding pickles from out behind your favorite fast-food restaurant...or...
Some people get seriously grossed-out about a bucket, personally I get seriously grossed-out about a porta-potty. And the inevitable odor that erupts when one slides open the flapper to "flush"...and the requisite stick that has to be kept around to poke things along on their way thru the hole...and the thrill of dumping it out...
A buddy of mine lives aboard his Albin-Vega 27 and has a bucket setup, bucket installs and easily removes from a bulkhead structure that has hinged top and positively restrains bucket as well as sealing air/water tight.
The goal, naturally, is to do all of one's significant business in the port heads and avoid using the bucket dockside, but as we all know sometimes nature's call comes urgently or what-have-you.
He started out buying those Home Depot buckets, and tried keeping it ready to use with water and holding tank "blue water stuff" (which, incidentally, is foul stuff in its' own right and nothing a person wants to breathe too often). Of course, he'd feel a bit self-conscious about dumping the bucket down the port throne, and always wound up doing so in the middle of the night.
Finally he got smart and started going to the housepainters' for empty 5-gallon paint buckets, which he keeps around for a few days and then (if use has occured) snaps the lid on and pops in the dumpster up top.
Another guy I know set up a bucket that contains the clumping-type 'kitty-goes-and-now-I'll-scoop-it' cat litter, which he says works quite well. I dunno, I dislike cat boxes when it is just my cat!
Some use a fitted bucket like my buddy's and if major business is needed dockside line it with a black plastic bag for containment and later disposal.
One of the concessions I got out of Mary (who had used a bucket before anyhow) when I abandoned the switch from Triton to Lecompte Medalist...was to use a bucket in the Triton. Two fewer holes in the boat, less weight, lower cost...and a real human-sized seat.
Best,
Dave
Willie,
Thanks for the pics. Those puppies look like they're solid wood. Are they? We're hoping to gain a little more storage underway by having teeny little lockers under monster winch pads much like yours. Maybe drink holders or something...
:D Tony G
Ha! If you are talking about "the guy" I think you're talking about I'll point out that NO ONE dared to use the... ahem... "Kitty Box" during a 5 day stint!Quote:
Another guy I know set up a bucket that contains the clumping-type 'kitty-goes-and-now-I'll-scoop-it' cat litter, which he says works quite well. I dunno, I dislike cat boxes when it is just my cat!
The theory is good.... but we all preferred the "Eat lots of Cheese and Pray" technique instead.:D
probably deserves its own fiber.
Lanolin has been around forever as a water displacing preservative for metal and leather. It seems to have resurfaced as the best anti-fouling for props. It sticks to props but nothing sticks to it.
Riggers, as Capt. Michael says, have been using it to keep salt water out of threads and probably out of rigging connections. The grease can be used on anchors, winches, shackles, sail-hanks.
There is a New Zealand company that sells it in various forms including spray. You can coat your boat trailer with it, your inboard engine (just reach in and spray everything in and out of sight!), your whole outboard motor, in and out. Use it on your blocks, all your electrical connections, battery terminals and switches. Keep your galley stove from rusting. Spray it on your anchor chain to keep it from rusting and castle-ing in the locker.
Coat your onboard tools with it (heat your tools first!) Your sail needles won't rust. It's great for your hands. It's NOT A PETROLIUM PRODUCT. No Dupont, no Dow. Nobody and nothing died to bring it to us! Better to smell like a wet sheep than a gas station!
You know something: sounds like it is just the ticket to use on the mast/heel connection and the screws.:D:cool:
I ordered the Sketchbook from Barns and Noble, got it yesterday. Nice way to start thinking. Was wondering if any one has used the hinged mast base that in not hinged but has the bolt through it. If so, did they cut the mast to drop easily? I have seen a few of them but do not remember how the base of the mast was rounded to help lower of it.
Capt. Willie where did you get the trailer and how do you like it?
http://www.qualitytrailers.com/
I like it. Pulls nice. For $3k it is a good deal.:cool:
Capt Michael,
Hit the SEARCH bar, type in 'hinged mast,' and amongst others check out Scott Galloway's generous contribution on his mast lowering on the run procedure. His is a single bolt, in a non-sliding hole, with a rounded mast bottom. I was unable to fully appreciate his system from the photos. My reasons for selecting the Ballenger hinge are above in this group of posts.:)
Some mast bottoms are rounded more than others. Some incorporate the bolt in a curved slot - my guess is to reduce the amount of round needed and to cancel any rise in the mast as it goes off or comes up to vertical to be able to keep full tension on the upper shrouds. But it is very difficult to find images on the net. Google's 'images' bar is (so far) pretty useless. as it doesn't understand english pretty good.
maybe you find something good let us know?
You can find Ray Alsup's refreshing 'Rebovating Old Spar's for his Triton 'Pegasus' #256 on the Maintenance, Improvement & Restoration pages on the National Triton Association site....
where he relates his experience painting 256's mast and fitting a Ballenger hinge, w/ photos.:cool:
Yeah....well....I'll let you guys go back to the Triton site to find George's post in the Electrical Handy Hints section on Coax Seal. Which is a versatile, flexible, moldable plastic wrap that you can use to seal the thru deck fittings at the mast - coax and common ground. It sounds like a great product that, like George, you'll find other uses for.
One of its properties is, that while it WATERPROOFS what you have wrapped, you can take it apart and use it again. Seems pretty wild to me! Get it at Radio Shack.
Here's another site to go to for the clearest most spectacular DIY photos I've ever seen:
http://www.naval.com/coax-seal/
The masts on the two tabernacled boats that I have owned were modified the same way: A permanently fixed steel mast step, with two flanges (one on either side of the mast).
The bottom forward section of the mast is radiused, and a block of wood inserted inside the mast base is radiused to match. A single bolt runs through the mast and both of the port and starboard flanges. A bolt secures the nut. The holes in the flanges and the mast are round holes appropriately sized for the bolt. The bolt does not slide.
In the attached photograph, the highly polished steel plate is a block attachment point and has nothing to do with the tabernacle. The less-bright steel plate is the portside flange on the mast step plate. The bolt pictured is the one described above.
A tabernacle rig is a spiffy thing, but don't forget to think about what you are going to do when you are single-handedly zipping along at 3 knots with the mast lowered most of the way to pass under a bridge, and you need to suddenly need to change course, or you are forced to leave the helm, or perhaps you need to do both.
The only things keeping that mast from dropping to the deck, or at least slicing through that forward hatch cover like a butter knife passing though whipped margarine are:
1. Your hand on the mainsheet, and
2. Perhaps that very wet mainsheet is held in the slippery grip of the relatively small cleat that is an integral part of the mainsheet block. Well anyway, just think about it a bit. Are you willing to trust that block to hold your mast up while your bow is swinging widely to port at the same time that you have to go forward? Can you walk and chew gum at the same time. As for me, I don't want to think about it for much longer. I have to get down to the boat and do some fiberglass repair to my forward hatch cover.
Or if that didn't convince you to think about it, imagine yourself on a frigid, wet, cold and foggy night when your fingers are cold and the mainsheet is soggy. OK, now it's time to lower the mast. You can't get home unless you pass beneath that bridge, so you give the boom a little shove upward and the mast begins to drop as the mainsheet runs between your numb fingers. How's your grip?
And yes, I have had exactly that experience also. I escaped a destructive mishap that night, but the mast dropped about ten feet before I caught it. At that time, I had a dual-action 4:1/ 8:1 block then with two mainsheet lines. It felt like I had a firm grip on the dual mainsheet lines, but one of the two lines was running free through my cold fingers.After that experience I switched back to a 4:1 ratio block with a single larger diameter line that can be better sensed by cold fingers late on a foggy night. I executed over 150 safe tabernacle operations with my new mainsheet block before last Saturday's mishap. BAck to the drawing board.
Oh and one last scenario: It is possible for your motor to die while the mast is lowered under a bridge while motoring alone. This also happend to me once. You can't pull the mast up, because you are beneath a bridge. You shouldn't let go of the mainsheet. You better fend off the bridge piling. That piling is coming up quickly. Even if you miss the piling, there is that line of boats tied to the dock just beyond the bridge. It would be a shame to stick your nearly horizontal mast in among all those shrouds and stays.
My point in this is that those of us who like to lower our masts underway ought to think about a fail-safe way to secure the mainsheet, so that the sheet does not accidentally drop out of the cleat on the mainsheet block. Last Saturday I conclusively proved that you can make the mainsheet do that.
Ideas come to mind like:
1. Tying a secure knot in the mainsheet at the point that would leave the mast at the height at which the backstay is parallel to the water surface. At any lower angle, the boom rises above the height of the mast anyway.
2. A convenient place to tie the mainsheet securely with sufficient tension to keep the sheet in the cleat when the mast is lowered.
Haven't seen much on this subject, but thought it might be worth asking about. I think i better replace this mess, as there isn't much use in doing all the others with these looking like they do. Forespar says if the thru-hull is 6" above the waterline or lower, it needs a valve. I was thinking of using their Marelon Flanged Seacocks, with a flush thru-hull fitting, and proper hose and clamps. Would like other thoughts...is this all necessary for starters, as it's been 40 yrs. the way it is...don't think i better see if it will make it another forty though!
I've never installed the flanged seacocks before. Looks like a backing block glassed in, with proper size hole, bedding in 5200, seacock secured to backing block? Any experts out there? And can i/should i use the present holes, or is there a better way?
Also, i have the deck holes that drain down inside the hull, and exit just below boot stripe. Is this a future problem to watch too? I was thinking of just glassing them in, and making the cutouts on the transom work better someway. There's a lip that prevents all the water from leaving.
Just some final things to work on while taking a break from the d/a sanding job. Would like to hear what others have done with the deck drains, cockpit drains. Thanks. Here's what my thru-hulls for the cockpit look like now....:rolleyes:
and the starboard one. note the up to code wiring. haven't figured out what it goes to yet! soon to be gone.
The deck drains are fine.
The cockpit drains are fine too. Some surveyors and insurance companies want a seacock on them. I don't see the point, since you would never close those seacocks or rainwater would fill the cockpit.
You could change the hoses if you want to (I haven't). One danger I've thought about is if the battery got loose it could smash the fiberglass bottom of the drain. So the battery should be secured.
A seacock on the sink drain would be better than the float valve.
The original seacocks could be corroded (or they could last another 40 years). The prior owner of my boat had one fail while he was underway, leading to some anxious moments. He had them both replaced, so I never had to do the job.
http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/07.htm
http://catalog.com/bobpone/diySeacock.htm
hey Capt,
what Forespar says is what your insurance guy will say.
I'm also going with flush thruhulls and Marelon for one or two seawater intakes (Forespar also makes a nice Marelon strainer.) The only negative I've heard is that there is some swelling in the ball that eventually makes it difficult to swing the handle which can break. People say that 'regular' greasing and on/offing takes care of the problem, if it is a problem. I will go with Maralon because it's inert.
There has been considerable discussion, if you want to wade through it, on the subject. Ebb & Geoff have fore and aft hard cockpit drains of differing philosophies. No seacocks.
New seacocks for a new old boat is the only way to go. Metal thruhulls have to be suspect both on corrosion and bedding, also if they have been bonded. Soft hoses connected to underwater fittings is the long way to spell 'paranoia.' There is no bilge pump set up I can think of that can save an untended berthed boat.
What the best, safest, longest lasting hose is worth talking about. No?
[However, I have heard of cruisers going with no seacocks at all. One guy uses a hard PVC 'stand pipes' system unfamiliar to me. Noww, by 'stand-pipe' I'm assuming you can look down the pipe and see the bottom of the Bay or Ocean. But extremely interesting. One used as a seawater draw, one or the same used for grey water, requiring hoses, or maybe a plunger to evacuate the dishwash. You would have to have a positive shutoff or a screw-on cap somewhere above the waterline (and a good memory) - way above the waterline. If it was in the cabin area, Right? Never seen a discussion on this. Otherwise, a couple of us have 'standpipes' already in the form of straight thru hard drains in the cockpit.] :D
Cmdrpete: thanks for the good reading links. Looks good. I'd like to do this right, and that looks like the way to go.
Ebb, thanks to start with, i have seen photos of yours. My state of the art dial up connection makes it an all day project to view most photos, but i have looked at a bunch while the tea water is trying to boil.
So about your hard 'standpipes', what did you glass in? pvc? i could see doing something like that. But i'm more inclined to just go with a marelon thru hull and seacock, and good hose, double clamped of course.
ON the paranoia issue, I'll be 50 miles from the boat when i can't be on her, and there's only one other boat in the marina, unattended, so i'd like to sleep well. I took out all the other thru hull fittings, and glassed them in. We can pack our water for weekends, and the river is just over the side if we need more for dishes or whatever. Can't see putting holes in a perfectly good boat. Was trying to figure out a way to drain a cockpit without having them exit below the waterline, but that would be a good engineering problem!
IMHO, I would not worry about the cockpit drains. They have stood the test of time and the only problems have been with the sink drain (where the hose has parted from the basket and fallen allowing water to flood the boat). Since your boat no longer has a sink . . .
My cockpit drains have bronze seacocks, but most boats do not. I think the seacocks were added due to insurance underwriting sometime before I got the boat. So far, they have just been another maintenance chore.
As for the little deck scupper drains that exit near the water line, I'd keep them. Again, it's been 40 years and they have worked well and make it easier to clear the deck of that last bit of water you will never get to flow out the opening in the toe rail at the aft end. It will also be a challenge to balance the boat so that the scupper is at the low point . . .
Capt Bill,
start messing around with structural stuff opens a can of worms. To put in hard cockpit sole scuppers, that is, pvc pipe or something, you would have to stablize the cockpit. A hose takes care of any movement (deflection of the sole, eg) - that might crack or break a rigid installation.
338 has lengthwise bulkheads being put in under the cockpit port & starboard edges, and has been glassed to the bulkheads it sits between. Doing this because of the hard use I want to put the boat to. I've also decided to put batteries under the cockpit sole. That install will also stiffen the whole cockpit molding. Some undertaking.
For the pipe I found some 2 1/4" ID epoxy/glass gaspipe. No reason, that was what a local search came up with. I wanted something I felt was stronger than pvc, not libel to break. The forward scuppers run the length under the cockpit without added support. Because I ran em out under the transom. So 338 is clean as a whistle under the ladder.
The photos show what may be considered WAY overbuilt scuppers in the rear. Somehow it just worked out that way with the layers of xmatt and sculpting. The sole is pretty flexible by itself and those standpipes are inassesible back there. especially after closing in the space under the cockpit. (There'll be minimal access hatch way in back to the tubes from the q'berth.) I was influenced by the story of a local Triton being sunk by having its rudder jammed up thru the hull when it went aground.
Yeah, WHAT hose? One guy was saying, don't make the mistake of using black hose with metal spiral inside, as it can rust and degrade. (In fresh water: 40 years!) And you CAN find 100% 316 hose clamps that have an unserrated upcurled band. Best for squeezing plastic hose. Source??
Ebb, on the way down to work on the S/V Bouyant:)
Hull number 56 has only had her hoses replaced twice in 40 years. Don't forget to DOUBLE clamp and place each pair of clamps in opposite directions.
Having said this, I am not sticking with the system. I am going to use fiberglass and create a fiberglass cylinder from cockpit drain down to the hull. This will serve to both reinforce the cockpit and assure no hoses to fail or seep -- not that mine ever have. Of course, the key here is to make enough layers of fiberglass that the strength is adquate to the task.
As for the sink drain, I am going to put a throughull and close it when I am not on the boat.
Ted
Here's the latest. Still waiting on some parts.
Was gonna add these to old thread, but it was full of other technical matter, so here I'll try to stick to pics of the boat.:rolleyes:
Of course the bugs like it, and the wind blew some cottonwood balls up the creek, but it's turning out fine. All the sanding and fairing might just be worth it! There's still some dents here and there, but hey, she's almost 40.;)
And i picked the midnight blue. Figured i'd most likely be sailing in the winter, so a little extra heat will be nice. Work on the boat in the summer, sail in the winter. Sounds like a plan for Oregon.
Here's the rudder, waiting for a certian bronze cast piece....still....
Sorry Dave, had to do it!!:D
Ah heck, one more won't hurt. I love looking down the keel...:cool:
One more coat of paint ought to do it. Hopefully the bugs won't be too thick, or the cotton, or the wind, or who knows what all. Fun working out doors. At least we have good ventilation!
.......Gasp......
She's beautiful.
A white bootstripe would really set it off, but a pain to keep clean.
Thanks cmdrpete! White it will be, on the factory scribed marks. They were still there, under it all.
So is there a way to do the boot stripe without having to mask it off twice, top and bottom? It's covered now, doing the bottom paint and top sides. After another coat of blue, off comes the tape, then tape top and bottom outside. What a pain. I thought i'd pull a fast one and just overlap the blue and red bottom paint, then mask off the boot stripe. Wrong! Couldn't find it! So we sanded some more, and did it right. I have to say i'm getting a little excited to see her sailing. Wow! What a boat. Thanks Carl.
Since this is the gallery, i'll find another picture!:D
Decided i had to share this one, getting ready to see if she still floats Tuesday. Have a little touch up to do, and last details, but she's looking good. Guess i'm just a little biased. :D
Willie,
Very Nice! I was just thinking of e-mailing you this morning for an update. Wow! You left coasters work like lightning:D And launching on a Tuesday-not even waiting for a weekend. I'm both happy for you and envious of you. I take it the rudder shoe worked out fine? And most importantly!! TAKE PHOTOS!!!
Tony G
Super! Nice waterline, too!
Not to get too technical.
What kind and whose paint did you use?
And how was it going on, aside from what was bugging you?:cool:
All went according to plan. Don't remember which plan, but she's off the trailer, finally, (no more step ladder!) and at the slip.
I could go into more details, but i'll just say, I'm one happy Ariel sailor! HOO-RAW!!:D
This was fun. hopefully never again. Actually it wasn't THAT bad.
The 19 knots with 25 gusts made it fun though. :rolleyes:
Factory scribed marks, under all the paint. After removing the excess baggage in the bilge, she sits rather well.
A friend took a couple shots of our maiden voyage to the slip, will post when they come in.
When the Navy divers are done picking up F/A 18 Hornet pieces, we'll be getting to know each other better. The marina at Arlington Oregon is a little crowded with dive boats, etc. after the marine aviation accident a couple weeks ago. Two dead marine aviators, and two Hornets in the Columbia and surrounding area.
So we had quite a crowd of shipmates at the launching, and all with comments on how much they loved the boat. Good time. And good help!;)
My thanks to all here for support and help in getting her back in good shape.
Just a quick 2 cents from a has-been list-lurking high and dry Ariel wanna-be: HUBBA HUBBA!
You guys are an inspiration! A mighty "thanks" for the fine pictures and for the glimmer of hope at the end of these toddler-full years...
Mike
:D Ave is looking fine, my friend.. very nice work indeed. I second Ebb's question about the finish brand and any notes that might be pertinent. In fact, I just started a new thread on that matter, since I am now planning to take Houdini one step further into that completely impractical world of the over-improved old sailboat. Extravagance becomes its own virtue in these matters--besides, Alberg is due this kind of respect in a world now awash in masted clorox bottles. Yesssss.
Thanks for all the compliments boys, to answer some questions,
Final paint is Pettit Easypoxy, midnight blue. 3 good coats. light sanding with 320 on the d/a between coats, to remove any imperfections--fisheyes, bugs, cotton, you name it. Under the easypoxy is about 5 coats of Pettit ship'n'deck, dark blue. I didn't like the way it was finishing, so put the easypoxy over it. So she's blue pretty deep. With my young crew, and my own inexperience, that will be good. Under all this, i put on 2 coats of Pettit easypoxy white undercoater. It's a soft high build primer, fills imperfections, easy to sand off. Fills the paper pretty bad though. I was glad to be done with it. This was all sprayed on, sometimes in the morning, sometimes in the evening, whenever the wind wasn't blowing too bad. Used a NAPA gun, water trap on compressor, about 35 lbs. of air. I'm an amatuer, and it seemed to work ok for me. Just put on a light coat, sand it down the next day, and put on another one. No problem. A couple stiff Capt'n Morgan's works too! Glad it's over with.
Below the w/l, i took it down to glass, after rebuilding the keel/shoe area, taking out thru-hulls and glassing in....then decided to put on an epoxy barriercoat. Got it from National Paint/Bluewater Marine. She had a lot of spots that were a little rough, pitted, pin holes. I brused on straight epoxy over the bad areas, after curing, sanded smooth, got rid of the blush. She'd been out of the water for 6 months in easten Oregon, low humidity, so figured she was pretty dry. Plus i'd punctured her in about 8 spots around the bottom, so decided to go ahead with a barrier coat. Used 4'' rollers for it, and started applying Bluewater Marine copperguard 56 with slime control extra. It's about 1/2 the price of pettit trinidad sr by the way. The boot stipe is exactly where Pearson put it, found the scribed marks under all the old paint. It's an lpu brushed on.
Now i want to work on the deck. The last owner did the grey on the basketweave areas, and it gets too hot. Want to do the whole thing white. The grey is a light coat, brushed on, any hints/suggestions for paint? Think a one part lpu would do.
Guess that's about it. I emailed pettit for info. on what to do with the fresh paint, no answer. My local body and fender man said i shouldn't do anything to it for about 6 months, let it cure, then put on some wax. Any other thoughts?:rolleyes:
I painted my decks and cabintop with EasyPoxy five years ago and it held up well but is starting to show signs of wear. I figure five years on a frequently used boat is reasonable. Next time I'll put on three or four coats instead of the two I applied and probably get a few more years between paint jobs. At the time I was possessed by the irrational desire to go sailing instead of work on the boat and got in a hurry. It goes on easily and comes out nice. It's not perfect but for the amount of work it takes you get a good finish. You can make it as nice as you've made your hull if you want to do the prep. It stands up to normal wear and tear better than I expected and hasn't been damaged by flailing shackles or anything else it's run into. I applied mine with a roller and tipped out any marks with a foam brush dampened in thinner and was a happy camper when it dried. On the nonskid watch out for paint buildup. It tends to fill in the grid and make the nonskid lose it's grip. I also put a flattening agent in the cabin top paint to cut down the glare. A shiny white cabin top and a shiny white deck can be blindingly bright and much harder to keep clean.
Of course a two part would provide an even better finish if you want to spend the time and money. I'd rather go sailing.
Tom
Took the crew out for our first sail together on her today. It's their first time on ANY boat, and they're bugging me to go again, so must have done it right.
Here they are looking for teddy...I think the XO ran him over!!(thanks for the idea Jim!) :cool:
Always bugging me to drive.
And here they are standing watch for marina maneuvers (and out of the way). All in all, couldn't ask for a better day. Even the XO (first photo) had fun with the 3 little ones along. And that's what it's all about!! :D
Thought i'd share some sailing pics of the crew. We've had her out 13 times now since launching in August. Different every time! The XO is telling me i'm lucky i get to go 2 3 times/week, guess she's right, but it never seems like it's enough!
Anyway, we all enjoy her very much, she's a great family boat. I have several hundred photos now, will try to pick out a few. ;)
1) XO at work getting us ready
2) driving lesson
3) kids thought it was "kool" to get their toes wet.
4)What's that mom?
5) Wind came up, they actually thought it was fun getting wet! Unlike the FIRST time! That's me at the helm trying to tip her a little more for them.
\
Guess that's enuf for now.
Great photos--funny how the kids warm up to that heeling thing. This weekend I took a friend's kid who had always been taught the bay was a place of death. In about 30 minutes, he was asking if there were any way we could sail Houdini with the rail down. :rolleyes:
You and yor XO look so cool and you are cool dudes.
I can tell you know are too cool too. There isn't anything
more beautiful than introducing the kids to sailing.
AveM. in her fifth and resurected decade doing
exactly what she was intended to do! Very exciting and
very special!
Just did some digging around, and finally looked at Brave Heart. http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...read.php?t=531
What a nice job someone did with the interior! Did she really hit the rocks? Any news since that last post?
Anyway, i've been trying to figure out what to do with the interior. Some nice wood here and there would make things more shippy. Does anyone have experience in the finishing dept.? I could use any tips and advice on making it look professional. And if anyone has more photos of their interiors and what they did, please post!! Happy turkey day :p
Another interior make over is going on with our Aussie skipper. We should have some photo updates of Uhuru posted on "Geoff's Aussie Photo Gallery" shortly. Meanwhile, you might want to take a look at the interior changes Geoff has started making.
http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...read.php?t=325
I'd forgot about Bravehart! Should put sad news out of mind. She had a lot of good things going inside. Fore-n-aft seats for the tall skippers....nice and homey. A fine remodel that kept most of the original stuff
Wait til you see what Geoff has done!
Now you'd be stylin'
Good Gawd, Pete! Where do you find this stuff? I'm a pretty tolerable guy but that is just down right disgusting!
This will be the last thing you see when
you get swallowed by a giant squid.
I've been supervising a crew of teenagers in the national forest this summer. They decided we had to go sailing today, so we went. Beat the he-double tooth picks out of piling brush! Your tax dollars at work! lol
Anyway, they (we!) had a blast. I tried to make it educational for them, and i think it was a success. Keep in mind these kids have never been on a sailboat, or even seen one close up most likely, living in the desert of eastern Oregon. Anyhooo, we had to anchor over in the Bass fishing grounds when the fish finder lit up. So here's a few pictures...
It sure was a rough day at work! ;)
We've decided she needs a new home. Not an easy decision. Anyway, she's still in the water at Arlington, OR. Will be on trailer ready to go in Jan.
Bring $7500 and a 2-5/16" ball.:(
It's now Feb., still not on trailer if ya wanta go sailin' first. Lots of snow.:cool:
:confused: :( :o :confused: :eek: :o :confused:
The Ocean Cruising Club - Swallowing the Anchor
www.oceancruisingclub.org/content/view/563/82/
"....Sometimes, in my bed at night, thirty miles from the coast,
I can hear the anchor chain rolling over the bottom
As the tide turns.
Remember the long lift of the tradewind swells
And the patient gannets weaving in the wake?
Someone read the Walker Log please...
Or has it stopped?"
P F Middleton
Hey Willie! Good to hear from you.
There are pictures of your fine boat scattered around the site. Some here
She's a beauty
http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussi...read.php?t=765
Sorry to see you go Willie! Beautiful boat and the new owner will be lucky to have her.
I guess you wouldn't sell off my favorite feature of Ave Maria - those beautiful winch bases :D
http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/s...2&postcount=45