Shroud plates

Must be time to throw another wench into the werks.

Have any you boys and girls remounted plates to the outside of the hull?

Definitely would solve deck leaks. We got all kinds of water running along the toerail gutter at every opportunity and getting thru the caulking around the plates.

Moving the plates out increases the spread and therefore the strength of the rig. Might even make it easier to pass under or through the wires. Might mess with some sheeting angles, don't know 'bout that.

338 has had its shroud plate knees doubled in thickness and glassed over and tabbed with epoxy and x-mat (readied for traditional through deck mounting.) But the point is, I don't see any way the hull could now flex in this area. Why not get longer plates, pad the hull inside with backers between the stringer and the toe, and bolt them thru the hull? The upper shroud plates which bisect the mast and bulkhead would have to be offset a bit. With three shrouds per side, I wonder if this is a problem for us?

Mounting the plates exterior would detract from the yachty look, but would be more salty.

Any comments? :confused:

I have thought about it a good deal, since I need to replace the chainplate knees in the triton anyhow for the most part.

The stopping point has been the inevitable compromise in sheeting angles and my severe allergy to giving up an ounce of windward ability.

I don't know that you could get any stronger going outboard than you already have by the sound of what you've done, either.

I am most likely going outboard with the backstay chainplate, though, just because. Don't really know why, just seems like something to do.

Dave

That's a Yes.

Don't think you'ld HAVE to keep the knees at all on either the Triton or the A/C. The aft knee must aid somewhat in stiffening the hull. Any furniture tabbed in along the hull, enclosed shelves or settee backs eg in the salon, would help keep the hull from flexing. I think Tritons don't have the afters - unless retroed.

The pull of exterior shrouds would be all up. We have a wide enough, and stiff enough deck along with the whole cabin structure that would keep the shrouds from being pulled in. Why not?

Personally don't know that with all the work 338 had done on those knees that I'ld remove them. I'll incorporate them in the builtin cabs.

I would glue in WIDE 1/2" ply pads on the inside of the hull and graduate them smaller each layer to where the bolts come thru. 5 layers. Mayan temple style. Maybe smooth the slope so the whole pile could be glassed in. I'ld probably choose chainplates that would fit the space between the stringer and the toe. Probably take the glass right over the stringer for good measure. Stiffening, load spread, and bearing surface for the bolts - all in one.:cool:

So why not do it?


.........................Time
......................... $
......................... leave well enough alone.
..........................gotten used to the water on the shelves
..........................keeps the bilge pump working.
..........................Everett and/or Carl would have a fit.
..........................looking forward to the recoring job.

A/C may well be stiff enough to do that...Tritons are frighteningly flexy to a former Commander owner. The knees are very long and give a lot of stiffening to the hull...remember, our hull thicknesses are basically the same but the Triton expanses are a lot bigger and she's a lot more bulbous forward.

The Triton has aft lowers past a certain point, they offered a retro kit for the earlier boats produced without when they made the production change.

My ideal boat? A Commander scaled up to about 32 feet! Yeah, baby, yeah!

Dave

Ebb
The "one down under" has externally mounted chain plates. Check out Aussie Geoff's gallery. You KNOW you could do it and you know the pros and cons of having plates on the outside of the hull. I was tinking you'd have solid epoxy 2 plus inches all the way around yer chainplates where they poke through the deck any way. So whats a little caulk every year? Aw-come to think of it why not. I, for one, think it would fit the nature of your rebuild. Go for it man:cool: Tony G

Does anyone have some photos of the upper and lower shroud attachment points at the mast?? Just started digging in to my new rigging installation and I'd like to see what an original set up and/or modifications others have done looks like...

There are stainless steel tangs that are attached to the bolt at the masthead sheave (for the uppers) and the bottom spreader bracket bolt (for the lowers).

The tangs on my boat looked good. Might be hard to find replacements off the shelf.