coamings

For the last two years I only did touchups on the varnished woodwork on my Ariel, Mischief. And this year it's showing, so...
I've never been able to get a really good finish sans sags on the coamings so I'd would like to take them off this year.
Has anyone done that? I've taken out all the screws I can see and they still seem pretty secure. I'm afraid to start chopping away at them in case there's something holding them in that I'm missing.
Thanks
Robin

If your coamings are attached like those in the Commander, there should be about four big screws on the inside of the cabin for each coaming.

These go in to the forward part of the coaming boards. Forgive me if you knew about these already.

I hope to take my boards off this winter and do them up nice.

In the past I've used varnish (too much work) and Cetol (rubs off too quick).

I'm thinking of trying Bristol Finish this time, its a two part mixture something like epoxy and costs a fortune. I hope its the magic bullet for this job.

Thanks for the answers guys.
I'll be out there this weekend pulling and prying.
I couldn't quite make out from the photo if you have the same blocks I have near the cabin--some of the screws go into those blocks. That might be what I have instead of the screws into the cabin like on the commander.
The previous owner used epifanes varnish and I've kept that up--it looks so good I can't resist. Besides I kind of like varnishing.
Robin

I used Epiphanes varnish and can't recommend it enough. It has been on now for 6 years and looks like new. I put on fifteen to 20 coats. If you go to the trouble of taking the coamings off, as far as I figure, put plenty of coats on so you are not faced with the problem of taking the coamings off for half a lifetime.

Epiphane is true spar varnish, not the poly varnish that cracks and peels off within three years - at least in the midwest. It is good stuff and I don't know if it can be beat.

I found out what you mean about the coamings being difficult to remove. I had to force a very thin paint scraper into the gap where the sealant was and move along inch by inch. They finally yielded to that and alot of strong language.

Here they are stripped and mostly sanded

Hey Commanderpete,they look as good as Sirocco`sI see you figured out how to post larger pictures.

Nice photos. I actually did some damage when I was getting mine off--the wood kind of splintered in a few places, but it won't show when they're back on. I've put on a coat of paste wood filler--so I can start varnishing any day now.

Looking for suggestions on replacing my very cracked and original winch pads. Has anyone had the honors of making new ones or having them made? Please let me know !!

Ken (hull# 399)
Tampa Bay, FL

Ken,

Consider the nice bronze winch stands made by Spartan Marine. You can get them at Defender (2002 catalog page 269). They look traditional, are heavily made, and are a nice improvement, in my opinion. See the photo.

Tim Lackey
Triton 381

Oops...I guess the photo was too large. Try again.

I had to redo my winch pads a few years back,they are just built up of tapered 1 or 1 1/2 inch pieces of wood.If I had to do it again I would go with the metal pads like on Glissando.The whole assembly comes apart,you need to replace the cracked wood,not just fill it in with something.

Another viewpoint:

My wood bases are cracked but I have not figured out any reason to replace them. They are held on by four long screws going through the cockpit coaming, and a bolt passing through the deck. I can't envision them coming off (knock on wood) and have not experienced any apparent weakness. I have Lewmar winches mounted on top of them.

However, what I have done is to load the splits with plenty of varnish (the first coats being thinned 3 parts of thinner to one part of varnish initally, then 1 to 1, then 3 varnish to one part thinner) to seal the wood where it is crecked so it doesn't rot. If the pedestals are rotten, then there is a different issue. Personally, I like the look of the wood.

Thanks for all the suggestions and input. Those bronze ones from Defender look like the way to go.

Ken

"The time has come, the Walrus Said,

I am about to remove my coamings on Valhalla. I don't know what to expect from reading the messages here, but I will know more after this weekend.

My assumption is that the base of the coamings are through-bolted and the aft bolts are going to be interesting to get at. Or is there hope??

John G.
Valhalla
Commander No 287

The coamings on our Ariell were fastened with wood screws that go into a stringer behind the bulkhead.