Thought I'd post some pictures of #66 before I begin her restoration.
Here's the galley...
Printable View
Thought I'd post some pictures of #66 before I begin her restoration.
Here's the galley...
Forward cabin and head (to be replaced w/a porta potti)...
Port side w/fusebox...
Starboard side & icebox...I'll probably remove this & either relocate it or just go with a portable cooler. With a wife and three kids, we won't be doing much more than daysailing and some simple overnights.
Looking forward... I'm thinking about removing the cabinets entirely in favor of longer bunks.
Portside bunk...
And starboard. The blue cushons are on hinges...the PO installed them as backrests. Not a bad idea, but I'll have to replace them...perhaps with a different design.
Forward cabin... In need of some paint, although I'm dreaming of a nice redwood ceiling... Those Don Casey books have me thinking...
Another angle on the forward cabin...the port portlight needs replacing.
The starboard portlight is still good, but I may just replace them all (fixed and opening) with some nice bronze jobs that open...hmmm...now to convince the wife to spend the $$$ ;)
Yet another view from the forward cabin...
Under the cockpit. The battery used to be next to the sink, but this seems to be a better place if you have an outboard; a hatch in the cockpit sole would give good access to this area. Anyone else do this? Any thoughts as to weight distribution?
We washed her topsides. It looks much better from a distance, but the gloss is gone and there are a lot of scratches & small gouges.
Rudder needs work. Has anyone undertaken a rudder repair? Would it be better to replace the shaft with something continuous and rebuild the whole thing, or just encase the existing one in fiberglass?
Some very familiar photos here!
We recommend against placing weighty objects (such as the battery) any further back in the boat. Forward is better.
If the rudder shaft is sound, don't fix it. Marine bronze stock is outragously priced. (I think it was $25/ft the last time I checked.)
The rudder appears to need only a small section of mahogany to make it ok. Removal requires lifting the boat higher at the stern to allow the rudder and shaft to seperate from the hull.
Encapasulating the rudder in fiberglass has its downside. A good clear expoxy coating may be a better solution. BTW - the opening of the joints on the rudder are not a problem. They close as soon as the boat goes back into the water.
I replaced all the ports and windows with bronze and am happy to have done away with the crumbling aluminum. They come from Ronstan, RI listed in the manual. Not inexpensive, but then, what is when you're working with boats? The frames, however are "new" design that came when Pearson shifted from a Dutch source to a US source. The openings in the cabin trunk will need to be ground about a 1/4" to fit on the curve.