Bill
12-22-2013, 06:58 PM
Configuring Ad Astra for Single Handed Transpac Race
Unless she fails inspection, my sanity suddenly asserts itself, or more likely - I run out of funds - I intended to enter Ariel #75 in the Single Handed Transpac race: San Francisco to Hawaii.
I'd like to defer to the wisdom of those on this board for some advice on a few points.
1) Lifelines. She has never had them. I personally hate lifelines because they provide little protection at the high heel angles when people usually fall overboard and they encourage people to not use a tether with jacklines. But the rules require them. I really don't want to compromise the integrity of the deck by drilling 40 holes in it (even with the fill-the-holes-with-epoxy technique). Does anyone have lifeline stanchion bases attached to the side of the hull instead? If so, do you have a source for those bases? Did you need to shim them to compensate for the greater than 90 degree angle between the topside and the deck? Yes, I know they will drag in the water when the boat is heeled - but it's a choice of the lesser of evils. The cored deck rots fast when water gets in and deck-mounted stanchions reduce the deck surface area making it less safe (another reason not to have them).
2) Any suggestions on upgrades? The previous two owners took good care of her, and there hasn't been a lot to do. What I've done so far is:
Remove the inboard jib tracks that were leaking and contributing to deck core rot.
Replace the stainless jib tracks at the rail that were shimmed with rotten wood that leaked. I used aluminum T track from Shaefer and bedded them with Dow 795 silicon (I normally hate silicon - but it was the best compromise).
Reinstall two 1/4 inch steel plates at the strongback for reinforcement. The holes were already drilled, but the plates were missing.
Repair hairline cracks in the tangs in the tiller attachment.
Remove and seal the through hull ports for the (illegal) head.
Replace the port lights with 1/2 inch plexiglass and new bronze inner frames (photos posted elsewhere here).
Are there any gotchas that I've missed? I plan on replacing the standing rigging next. It's 3/16 inch SS wire. Has anyone sized that up to 1/4 inch? The chainplates look really good, but the backstay chainplate is only 3/16 inches thick, and there's plenty of room to size that up to 3/8 inch 316 stainless. The weight gain is minimal. Any thoughts on that? I still need a close inspection of the rudder, but there are no symptoms of problems with it. And I intend to remove the bronze "T" in the port side cockpit drain that drains the sink. I've already sealed the sink drain (the sink's only purpose now is a convenient holder for loose gear). Reaching those drain hoses is not going to be easy - I might have to call Hire-A-Midget to get someone small enough to get to them.
One thing I've been puzzling over: The water tank has been removed. There are carefully drawn pencil lines where the cutlines were drawn. Looking inside the cavity, it appears that a thick layer of fiberglass was removed at the top of the cavity. Could that fiberglass have been depended on for stiffness? Should something be installed in its place to act as a replacement stiffener?
Finally, the rules require that I have a backup tiller. It's very unlikely that my nearly new tiller would break, but the tangs on the tiller head attachment have already demonstrated a vulnerability to cracking. Does anyone have a tiller head to sell (with no cracks in the tangs)? Otherwise, I'll have to have one cast from bronze.
Thanks everyone in advance for your help in my adventure. I don't believe anyone has ever sailed an Ariel in the Transpac, let alone one that's 53 years old.
Last edited by pbryant; Today at 06:14 PM.
Unless she fails inspection, my sanity suddenly asserts itself, or more likely - I run out of funds - I intended to enter Ariel #75 in the Single Handed Transpac race: San Francisco to Hawaii.
I'd like to defer to the wisdom of those on this board for some advice on a few points.
1) Lifelines. She has never had them. I personally hate lifelines because they provide little protection at the high heel angles when people usually fall overboard and they encourage people to not use a tether with jacklines. But the rules require them. I really don't want to compromise the integrity of the deck by drilling 40 holes in it (even with the fill-the-holes-with-epoxy technique). Does anyone have lifeline stanchion bases attached to the side of the hull instead? If so, do you have a source for those bases? Did you need to shim them to compensate for the greater than 90 degree angle between the topside and the deck? Yes, I know they will drag in the water when the boat is heeled - but it's a choice of the lesser of evils. The cored deck rots fast when water gets in and deck-mounted stanchions reduce the deck surface area making it less safe (another reason not to have them).
2) Any suggestions on upgrades? The previous two owners took good care of her, and there hasn't been a lot to do. What I've done so far is:
Remove the inboard jib tracks that were leaking and contributing to deck core rot.
Replace the stainless jib tracks at the rail that were shimmed with rotten wood that leaked. I used aluminum T track from Shaefer and bedded them with Dow 795 silicon (I normally hate silicon - but it was the best compromise).
Reinstall two 1/4 inch steel plates at the strongback for reinforcement. The holes were already drilled, but the plates were missing.
Repair hairline cracks in the tangs in the tiller attachment.
Remove and seal the through hull ports for the (illegal) head.
Replace the port lights with 1/2 inch plexiglass and new bronze inner frames (photos posted elsewhere here).
Are there any gotchas that I've missed? I plan on replacing the standing rigging next. It's 3/16 inch SS wire. Has anyone sized that up to 1/4 inch? The chainplates look really good, but the backstay chainplate is only 3/16 inches thick, and there's plenty of room to size that up to 3/8 inch 316 stainless. The weight gain is minimal. Any thoughts on that? I still need a close inspection of the rudder, but there are no symptoms of problems with it. And I intend to remove the bronze "T" in the port side cockpit drain that drains the sink. I've already sealed the sink drain (the sink's only purpose now is a convenient holder for loose gear). Reaching those drain hoses is not going to be easy - I might have to call Hire-A-Midget to get someone small enough to get to them.
One thing I've been puzzling over: The water tank has been removed. There are carefully drawn pencil lines where the cutlines were drawn. Looking inside the cavity, it appears that a thick layer of fiberglass was removed at the top of the cavity. Could that fiberglass have been depended on for stiffness? Should something be installed in its place to act as a replacement stiffener?
Finally, the rules require that I have a backup tiller. It's very unlikely that my nearly new tiller would break, but the tangs on the tiller head attachment have already demonstrated a vulnerability to cracking. Does anyone have a tiller head to sell (with no cracks in the tangs)? Otherwise, I'll have to have one cast from bronze.
Thanks everyone in advance for your help in my adventure. I don't believe anyone has ever sailed an Ariel in the Transpac, let alone one that's 53 years old.
Last edited by pbryant; Today at 06:14 PM.