I'm the new caretaker of Ariel-109

[Ariel 109]

Hello everyone. I'm the new "caretaker" of Ariel-109. She's located on City Island up in the Bronx. I've got my work cut out getting her seaworthy again but lurking through your postings has been a big help and highly inspiring.

Thanks

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/100_0188.jpg

[mbd]

Welcome and congrats! I see you're a furniture maker. Do you have big plans for the "new" boat?

[Ariel 109]

Do you have big plans for the "new" boat?


Thanks for the welcome. Ariel 109 is in pretty original condition and most of her problems are deck repair, replacing the rotting cockpit coamings and missing rigging. But the list as you all know is endless. The big plan is just to go sailing. Although I've fallen in love with the Ariel's lines and would like it to be a nice looking boat.

She's complete down below, even has her original foam cushion covers. I've cleaned her inside and out of all the little things that accumulate in a boat over the years. How many half empty suntan lotion bottles and rusty cans of insect repellent can a boat hold? She came with a nice clean set of sails (made on City Island) including her spinnaker and a recent Johnson 8hp motor.

I'm going to start working on the deck this weekend and I'll try and post pictures.

Ben

I am a furniture maker. I've got a simple website here:

http://www.benbajorek.com/

[bill@ariel231]

Ben
welcome aboard, it sounds like she is in good hands.
cheers,
bill@ariel231 :)

[carl291]

Welcome Ariel 109, Very nice looking boat and it FLOATS!!! you're already ahead of the curve:)

[Ariel 109]

Float she does. Her bilge would be bone dry if it wasn't for the deck leaks.

Well the first thing I'm going to attempt fixing on 109 are the obvious holes and weaknesses in her the deck. I ran out today and bought a gallon of West epoxy, the faster hardener and a filler. I'm going to send away for a sheet of some 3/8" end grain balsa core. I couldn't find anybody local selling the stuff. I guess I'll start fixing the two areas on the un-cored rear deck while I await the balsa.

The bow pulpit is missing from 109 so I'll be doing without one for now and the screw holes will all get filled.

Here are pictures of some of the problem areas.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1492.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1494.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1495.jpg
http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1497.jpg

[carl291]

Since you're located in the Northeast, check on Bill's Periwinkle thread for a nice all weather cover which will allow you work under and resist collapse in snow conditions.
Jamestown distributors has the supplies you will need for repairs . I get my stuff from U S Fiberglass coatings in FL but you have to be a business with a tax number, if you are, their prices are better.
Good Luck , Also any question you have will be answered on this site by it's members. There is nothing you can do to these boats that probably has not been done already including making a mess of a repair:eek: That the members can not guide you out of;)
Carl

[ebb]

A109,
Looks like she must have had an altercation with a hurricane - no pulpit and all those tear-outs obviously by rope. Basic glass work in difficult access areas. That old polyester is really tough. Though sometimes in sheer you'll get short delaminations like with a chisel.

The first photo of the boat seems to show she isn't tired anywhere. Looks pumped up and tight. She really looks good!.
Hope there's not too much you have to do with the deck!

And if she did survive a blow it doesn't look like she hit anything.

Have fun.:D

[Ariel 109]

Thanks again for all your encouragement and help. I really don't know any of the history of 109 apart from the belief she's been kept at City Island for many years. I think she's been a sufferer of benign neglect and underuse. Maybe floating unused on a mooring for many years like a lot of other boats around here. Or languishing ashore on a trailer, which I think was 109's situation until somebody demanded their driveway back.

I really wasn't looking to get a sailboat but one of my old friends found 109 and enticed me into the purchase ($500). The wife also was very supportive with the ideal, go figure! My friend has been working on a Coronado 41, which he's hopes to live aboard and we're sharing a decently protected pier this winter with the local fishing boats.

109 is strong boat. While working on her this Saturday with 40 mph wind gusts buffeting her on the pier she felt solid. I don't think the deck issues are too extensive. But we'll see soon.

Can anyone here describe the gooseneck (sliding?) for the ariel? Mine doesn't seem to be all there. I'm missing the piece that attaches to the track on the mast.

Thanks

Ben

[commanderpete]

Hi Ben, Glad to have you aboard.

Take a look at these threads to see what parts you may need

http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=66&highlight=gooseneck

http://pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=815&highlight=gooseneck

Peter

[Bill]

Please use the search function at the top of the page. That's what Commander Pete did . . . here is another thread to view.

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=815&highlight=gooseneck

[Ariel 109]

Thanks for the information about the gooseneck. I will try the Search function first next time.

Ben

[Ariel 109]

Well here's some progress. I glued up a tiller for 109 this morning. Made out of laminated Purple Heart which I had leftover from a project. I used Titebond Ultimate III glue which I've had good experiences with in similar situations. Any recommendations for varnishes?


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1500.jpg

[ebb]

EPIFANES
Epifanes.

[c_amos]

EPIFANES
Epifanes.

I second that.

However, seeing the beautiful layup I am not sure I am qualified to post to further inquiries. ;)

[ebb]

Oh Epifanes! Oh Epifanes!
How lovely is your Tiller.
In classy gloss will always glow
Thru summer sun & winter snow.
Oh....etc

Oh Epifanes! Oh Epifanes!
Your graceful curves look mo'betta.
With regular touchups most sublime
You bling my Tiller thru all time!
Oh....etc:rolleyes:

[Ariel 109]

What a nice poem! Thanks for the advice. Epifanes it will be.

I stayed an hour after work, cut out and started forming the tiller. Here's how far I got. I need to get more radius on the edges.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1501.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Cold and wet morning up on City Island. But I wanted to see if my new tiller fit before I started to sand and varnish it back at my shop. Building a new tiller seemed a good starting project.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/100_0191.jpg

[Rico]

Great Job!
Careful... the tiller was also my very first project! :D


- With your skills, I'll be waiting to see how the rest goes!

[Ariel 109]

Rico your boat "Mephisto Cat" (great name) is the gold standard I'm sure everyone here is looking to copy.

I've got skills gained from working with my hands most of my life, I'm 48. But fiberglass repair is new to me. And I haven't really been around boats very much since I was a kid. I know I'm going to make many mistakes working 109.

The tiller seems like the logical place to start working on a sailboat. You can make it look really nice and hope the rest of the boat follows. I brushed my first coat of Epifanes on the tiller last night. How many coats do I really need to apply? Purpleheart is a very dense non-porous wood so the varnish doesn't need to fill much grain.

Ben

[Rico]

Thanks for the nice comments!

I am a big fan of epifanes varnish. You do need to build-up a nice thick coat of varnish on first application. It is for the wood's benefit mainly by leeping the weather out of the wood, but the thickness also helps to stabilize the varnish coating itself, giving it a bit of body and allowing it to last MUCH longer and look better...

A nice thick coating also helps both to minimize the damage of dings & scratches to the wood, and when you do need to refresh the varnish - you abrade the coat of varnish- not the wood. The base layers seem to do quite nicely.

I start with a very diluted coating of varnish. I dilute about 50-60% producing a very thin varnish that is easily absorbed by the wood which should be dry. I think that first step is important so that the varnish & wood get full adhesion allowing for a good transition between materials. After that, I start building up the varnish thinning progressively less at each application.

I sand after each coat for smothness and to create more of a mechanical bond between coats. By coat #4 or so, I am already at full strength (0% dilution - straight out of the can). I usually do a coat in the early morning and one at night (in the summer in California) your drying time may vary in the NY winter...

I did about 8 coats on my tiller initially, and about 10 on my coambings. I highly recommend something like that... I went with about 4 coats on the companionway wood, and I can see the difference! (Already on the to-do list!)

Since you sand lightly at each coat, the build-up is not tremendous. You do end-up with a nice solid layer of nice varnish that is strong and readily accepts spot treatments in case of scratches.

Good luck!

[Ariel 109]

A sunny but cold day up at City Island a day after our first big snow storm. I went up to the Bronx and checked up on 109. If you look close you can see the resident family of swans wading in the background. These guys are as big as ostriches.

I finished varnishing the new tiller which was tougher to do well than I thought and hope to soon start working on some new coamings. I keep learning all sorts of important things from your old postings.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_8077.jpg

[ebb]

That modren foredeck looks pretty good

[Ariel 109]

Came back from the lumber yard today with these two Sepele boards to make new coamings, winch stands and hand holds for Ariel 109. Half the price of Hondo Mahogany and finishes to the color of a lovely old bottle of Bordeaux. These 14' long boards are almost book-matched.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1512.jpg

Acquired this nice spirit stove for the galley. It's a Homestrand alcohol stove who's style I think matches the Ariel. Works nice, lights right up.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1513.jpg

I've been sanding and re-oiling the interior's teak trim and doors. Oiled teak is so pretty, I'm thankful nobody ever varnished it all.

And a question. Where do you store the dinette table that came with the Ariel when you're not using it?

Ben

[c_amos]

Those like like some nice beginnings for the combing boards, I hope you include the 'after' pictures also.

It is funny you mention the 'look' of the stove, it DOES seem to just kind of 'fit' the interior.

The dinette table i not something I ever recall hearing about as a standard Ariel option. I did have a folding table that came with the boat (pretty much a fancy TV tray). It worked ok, and was nice for some tasks below but the stowage problem caused it to go the way of all things....

I have had many different lapdesks, and and like aboard that have been tried and abandoned. They were stowed under the counter, where the foot wells for the settes are. If you search, there are some nice folding surfaces some have come up with.

[Ariel 109]

I believe this boat came with a dinette table, could seat four. It clips into the jams of the forward cabin door and on the other end has a single leg that hinges to fit into a plate on the cabin's sole. It's table surface is the same formica used on the rest of the boat. And it's framed using the same teak mouldings as used in the galley area. Everything about it and the installation looks factory.

I've seen pictures of other Ariels with the clips for the table in the door jams.

Ben

[Ariel 109]

New aluminum spreader bases I welded together this afternoon. First I annealed with a torch two 1/4" thick small pieces of 6061-T6 sheet. Then hammered the sheet with a rawhide mallet over a sheet metal dolly that nearly matched the curve of the mast. Then welded the tubes to the sheet. Still need to drill the holes.

6061 has good corrosion characteristics so I don't know if I'm going to do much in the way of a finish. Just clean then up with a file and brush.

Ben


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1514.jpg

[Commander 147]

Looks like you have welded once or twice before :)

[c_amos]

Looks like you have welded once or twice before :)

I was thinking the same thing... looks pretty good to me.

[carl291]

Could you be persuaded to fabricate another pair????;)
Carl

[Ariel 109]

Could you be persuaded to fabricate another pair????;)
Carl

Oh man, I've got so much work to do on my boat. I'm dying to fix my deck and go sailing. All I need is some free time, temperatures in the high 40's, and sunny weather.........

But if you have some older cast spreader bases that are cracked it may be possible to weld and repair them. The ones on my boat are beyond repair and missing chunks.

Ben

[ebb]

Awesome aluminum welding, Ben, really impressive!
Ole 109 has a right handy skipper and must be happy with ya.

Maybe I'll give it a try. We got the MIG here. All that's needed is courage, right? Damm, where'd I put that rawhide mallet?;)

[Ariel 109]

Maybe I'll give it a try. We got the MIG here. All that's needed is courage, right?

Thanks EBB. I used a TIG welder on these spreader bases. MIG welding is great in situations where you need to quickly make large welds. But MIG welding aluminum can be really frustrating without the proper technique and set-up, usually very expensive. TIG is intimidating at first but really versatile and it's hard to beat the control over the weld it give you. You can also gas weld aluminum and produce beautiful welds. Remember that electric welding of aluminum wasn't wide spread until after WW2.

Small inverter type TIG welders the size of a lunch box are becoming popular and can run off a 110V extension cord. These are great to bring to jobs sites or maybe taking to the dock.

Ben

[Rico]

Beautiful Brackets Ben!

I was of the same mind as Carl... I was going to place an order of my own!
C-187 (my rescue boat) has the cast brackets and they are turning to powder...

I think a nice coat of primer / paint will go a long way on your new brackets... For both looks and longevity. Even 6061 Aluminum (Not anodised) tends to pit and create a oxide/gunk coating in a salt environment. Might be a real issue on the contact surfaces.

You have no contact info on your profile - I'll be looking to replace the Coambings on C-187. I'm not familiar with 'sepele'. Can you tell me what your experience / expectations are for this type of wood - relative to Teak or Mahogany? Thanks!

[Ariel 109]

Rico, now you've got me mixing up some PPG epoxy primer!

Sepele is considered a suitable wood to build boats from, which seems to be the case with most tropical timbers. But my experience with it is limited to furniture. You'll find it machines easier than mahogany, less splintering. Denser than mahogany, more like teak or rosewood, but not oilily. The quality and value of the what's available is so much better than current mahogany or teak supplies. And it's very pretty.

Ben

[Ariel 109]

After some epoxy primer and silver single stage acrylic urethane. I'm waiting to drill the cotter pin holes on the boat. Anyhow I'm going up to City Island to try and install them today.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1528-1.jpg

[Commander 147]

Rico did a really nice job on his. Check out post 87 of Mephisto Cat's gallery.

[Ariel 109]

Here are some shots from today's installation up at City Island. The existing spreader bases crumbled like Chip's Ahoy cookies as I removed them. Everything worked out nicely on this beautiful day.

Commander 147, Thanks, I did see how Rico installed his with the compression tube. Something to think about maybe in the future when the mast gets pulled.

Ben


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1530.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1531.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1529.jpg

[carl291]

Looks like you had a beautiful day to mount the bases, The disintegrating bases are very common after 40 + years. something else to think about when you visit this area when you lower the mast is it appears in the photo your bolts are short and don't engage the lock nut completely. I think it would be good to have a plastic gasket ( maybe just a couple layers of electrical tape) between the mast and the S. base to seal out any moisture which may collect there. Nice work .

[Ariel 109]

Carl, the nyloc nuts seemed to fully engage the bolts threads. The bolts are fully (just barely) through the nuts. But you have successfully planted in my head that there could be a problem, thanks.

I'd like to recommend the Werner Multiladder I used for climbing up to the spreaders. It's wide legs fit snugly between the sliding hatch glides of the Ariel. Felt very safe to work on after I strapped it to the mast. And we did attach some temporary (truck straps) shrouds to support the mast while changing the spreader bases. I should have taken a picture.

[ebb]

Great fittings.
The base plate is very robust and should spread side loads to the mast very well. The top bolt with this heavy plate can be seen as supporting the hard working lower bolt with the tangs for the lower shrouds.

Looking at lit'lgull's mast after DEcommisioning you could see the tang bolt had elongated its hole in the mast. The bolts had originally been installed without compression tubes. Imco it's a good thing to have at least the lower one done, not so much for 'compression', but because there is a larger bearing surface on the edges of the hole with the bolt in a tube.
Get 6061T6 tubing from online metals by the foot! Tubing means you can drill regular sized larger holes.

IN THEORY you can imagine the crystalline structure of old cast aluminum sockets being cracked by the lower bolt pulling down on it while the upper one, without load, holds on unmoved.

For what it's worth, riggers isolate all metals including the same metal when they bear on each other. When I took the mast apart some original cleats AND the sockets had no corrosion under the fittings, with no discernable isolating material.. This was not true for all the attachments. Small ones created serious corrosion on the mast where attacht. Plastic pipe or electric tape was used to install the track, which shows NO visible corrosion.

It seems simple to 100% isolate fittings on the mast with pipe tape. The stuff is made with polyethylene and will last one to four decades. That's what Pearson must have used. Lanocote or anhydrous lanolin is another fairly easy to apply isolator.

Running a 1/2" s.s bolt through a compression tube seems problematic. What protects the aluminum tube and mast from rapid galvanic action?
Maybe the size difference of the metals keeps the corrosion somewhat in check. But I won't use any rubber - it's more important that the system can be taken apart easy.

One of the spreader socket bolts that came out of lit'lgull's mast was rusted, the other was still bright. I think that it was a later replacement. What is the answer for these bolts? Regular replacement? Make absolutely sure they are 316. What happens with a s.s. bolt stuck in an aluminum tube for a decade? Even the tube where it bears on the mast extrusion in the drilled hole should be isolated with tape and grease. MY two aluminum cents!.:D

[Ariel 109]

The two long Sepele boards are all cut up. It took all the wood from one of those boards to make the winch and coaming blocks. I guess it's still cheaper than buying those bronze winch stands from Rig-Rite. I'm going to try and shape the blocks tomorrow on the big belt sander.

When I went up this past week to the Bronx to take the old coamings off the Ariel it was low tide and dead calm. The water was clear to the bottom and I could see the boat cowl that got knock off the deck about two months ago. With a long boat hook I was able to retrieve it. Made my day!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1540.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Here's one of the new coaming blocks (in the rough) with the angles "reverse engineered" from the existing old block. Quite a puzzle of compound angles.


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1541.jpg

[Ariel 109]

The rough cut winch blocks, ready to radius. These were cut on a big bandsaw which made things easy. Next time I have to be more careful about the gluelines. Off to the sander.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1542.jpg

[Ariel 109]

After about ten minutes on the old Crouch belt sander. Watching my fingers!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1544.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Fitting a coaming block on one of the coamings. I'm not going to use any plugs over the screw heads. Great fun working on this boat. It's like the shoemaker finally making himself a pair of shoes.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1548.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Ready to varnish. I used the old winch stands as jigs to accurately drill the 1/2" bolt holes through the blocks.

Where's that brush.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1551.jpg

[Tony G]

If that doesn't quicken the pulse of anyone looking at these pictures a visit to the doctor is in order.

You have a lot of good stuff going on, Ben. I, for one, am impressed and envious by the quality of work you are putting into number 109. Keep up the good work and photo posting!

[Ariel 109]

If anybody was wondering what Sepele looks like with a finish. These are quarter sawn boards so they have ribbon stripes.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1552.jpg

[mbd]

Ditto Tony's remarks Ben. That woodwork is absolutely gorgeous and is going to be breath taking when you get it all varnished up and installed! Nicely done!

[Ariel 109]

Thanks guys! I'll keep posting progress shots. I've learned so much from going through this site's old postings. And it's important to get feedback and contribute what I can to the forum's "knowledge base".

If you're thinking of making coaming boards for your boat out of Sepele my advice is to save money and not to buy thicker boards to plane down at your shop. One inch thick coamings? Buy the 4/4 S2S Sepele at the yard. Be select and go through the pile. Sepele sands out beautifully with a random-orbit sander and you run the risk of grain tear-out with a planer. Those two boards I bought cost $135.00. Outside of NYC should be less expensive.

I've started searching on Craigs List for an old Singer industrial sewing machine to make new cushions for 109. I'm surrounded by friends and family who work in the fashion industry and have gotten some good advice. Should be fun!

Ben

[ebb]

Beautiful woodwork Ben.
Just noticed your 'reverse engineering' comment about the coaming blocks and winch bases.

Noticed that also when trying the angles. But it also turned out to be a piece of cake to not only bandsaw the angles by tilting the table but also to saw the curve. Carefully. By slowly walking it around the blade with the blade-guard WAY up. So fine to have the finished shape suddenly appear like magic.

Can often make cuts in a block and tape them back together so that they stay wide enuf on their base to cut long curves out on a 90degree table.

[Ariel 109]

Ebb

Excellent comment. The block and tape cutting technique is so easy and elegant. That would be a good demo to do. With a sliding panel saw you overlook many ingenious solutions, everything is clamp and push.

I didn't use the band-saw to cut the curves on the winch blocks because all my blades are too wide for that radius. I suspect that the Pearson factory used a stationary belt sander to make the originals. My old blocks have parallel sanding lines in them. But a rasp, file and sandpaper would do just as good of a job. And build muscles and character.

Ben

[Ariel 109]

Up to City Island to check up on the boats. My Ariel seems to be growing a beard.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DucksInarow.jpg

One of the local live-aboard boats sank at it's mooring. They are going to try and pump it out tonight at low tide.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/Hulk-BowOn.jpg

This neglected Bayliner Buccaneer snapped loose from it's moorings and ran aground in the mud across the "harbor" from my docking. It's listing from someone leaving it's hatch open and the rain-water creating a large block of ice inside the hull. This boat is too new to end up like this, what a waste. This design later became the Pearson 25.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/Buckaneer-StbdBw.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Let's see if this works. 109's hanging closet solid-teak door and one of the small doors opposite are badly cupped (warped). On the table saw I made a bunch of kerf-cuts on the backs of the doors, clamped them flat and then filled them with epoxy. Now I wait.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1556.jpg

[Commander 147]

It actually makes for a good look on the door also.

[Ariel 109]

Seems to work. This door had a cup about 3/16" deep before. I'll have to do the two remaining teak cabinet doors now.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1557.jpg

[ebb]

PURE genius!

....Now that I understand that the macho clamping pic (#55) showed the closed side of the door!
But I did think the 'wainscot' look was unique and looked pretty good on the 'show' side.
The even spacing is very classy indeed! Very nice!

How deep did you make the kerfs?
Are you going to put cross cleats across the back - or do they seem unnecessary?


Thanks for sharing this great tip!

[Ariel 109]

Thanks.

The kerf-cuts are 3/8" deep. About half the thickness of the door. I'm going to skip the cleats and hope that maintaining a generous oil finish will keep the doors straight. Ha, we'll see! The proper cleat here would be one that would move with the door as it expands and contracts and affixed by sliding dovetails or screws with over-sized holes. But these doors aren't that wide. And I hope after my deck is fixed things will settle down below.

To get nice even spacing I use luck and an equal spacing divider.

I've been told that the neglected run-away Bayliner Buccaneer is docked next to my Ariel thanks to the NYPD Harbor Patrol. There goes the neighborhood! And the sunken cabin-cruiser is still on the bottom.

Ben

[Ariel 109]

Advice about flatting the teak doors with kerf cuts.

Take the doors off the boat and let them dry out. Uneven moisture content between the inside and outside is what caused the cupping.

Sand the backs to remove excess epoxy soon after un-clamping. You want both sides of the door to absorbed moisture evenly so everything stays flat.

Make sure you finish (oil / varnish) both sides of the doors.

My doors are still flat.

Ben

[Ariel 109]

Installed the new tiller and coamings on 109 this blustery sunny afternoon. Cleaned and greased the old Merriman winches before reinstalling, they feel like new.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1577.jpg

[ebb]

Just cast an eye
In her direction
Oh me Oh my,
Ain't that perfection!

[Ariel 109]

I got to sail Ariel 109 today for the first time. Amazing, what a beautiful day that I'll long remember as one of my best. My friend Hans and I pushed off the dock at City island, raised the mainsail, unfurled the jib and sailed out of the harbor. We had ideal conditions for sailing without the motor, which isn't in the boat yet anyhow. Off past Hart's Island and it's famous "Potter's Field" and into the beginnings of Long Island Sound. She sailed like a dream in the blustery winds out to Execution Rocks Lighthouse where we turned around and headed back. The wind picked up on the return trip and white caps appeared. We furled the jib in a bit and made it back to City Island lickety split. A nice soft landing at the dock and off to the City Island Diner for a late lunch.

My first time sailing an Ariel, what fun!

Ben

[Commander 147]

is what keeps me motivated and moving forward with my own project.

Glad you had a really good day of it and here is to many more just like it. :)

[Ariel 109]

Thanks Jerry

Here I am at the helm of 109 yesterday. In desperate need of a haircut. I've loads of work still to do on the boat but she sailed nice. These boats can really point high.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSC00004.jpg

[Commander 147]

Now where did that come from.:D:D

[Ariel 109]

Hello All

I couldn't find bow chocks to match the holes of the broken existing ones on 109. I had two pairs of skene chocks in my ever increasing collection of old boat hardware and junk. Very close in design to the originals but not long enough. After a little fabrication I adapted them to fit the boat. Didn't take too long to do, maybe two hours. Now 109 will be ready for the mooring.

Ben


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1689.jpg

[Commander 147]

You do nice work. So I assume the two in the front are the modified ones?

[Ariel 109]

Returning from a nice morning sail.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1722.jpg

[Tony G]

My word! Must be nice to have a dock to yourself in such a big city! She looks great, Ben. Keep up the good work, I'd like to free-load in your shop and keep posting photos!

[Ariel 109]

Tony, I think the marina just lets me keep my boat there for providing some atmoshere.

[Ariel 109]

I finally had to move off to the mooring. The dock and dine pier I was staying at all this winter and spring is now needed for the summer boating season. It's just a short row out in the dingy from the old dock to this mooring. And the City Island Bridge isn't as close as these pictures make it seem. Kind of relaxing out there on the mooring.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1725.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1727.jpg

[mbd]

Ben - she looks l great out there! Moorings are better for showing off our shapely Albergs hulls anyway.

[Ariel 109]

It's pretty amazing how many Alberg designed boats are moored about City Island. I know of six Tritons and three Cape Dory 25d sailboats within a quarter mile of my Ariel. And I'm sure more will appear as the yards empty out. Easy to confuse the Tritons for Ariels from a distance.

[Ariel 109]

Went up to the boat this afternoon to work on some little projects on 109. Took this shot of the label on my spinnaker bag. These guys made sails for many famous yachts and I think began making sails on City Island around 1900. I think they lasted on the little island off the Bronx until the eighties. I'm not ready to fly this sail yet. But I might be the first to do so when I do. It looks unused.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1763.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Making a new rudder post bearing on my old South Bend lathe. Notice the new flat belt driving my old machine (ca. 1934). I was able to get this new one made recently at the gear and transmission company that's across the street from my shop. All the tooling to make the belt was at least one hundred years old. The guys at the company were so proud they could help me.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1809.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Installed the new rudder post bearing yesterday afternoon and went sailing. Even though my boat's original bearing was still in place, getting rid of the slight slop in the steering has made sailing Ariel 109 more "pleasurable".

Much messing around with trying to get the old South Coast wire halyard winch to stop slipping. I happy to report that I've seem to have fix the the problem. I think what did the trick was using 320 sandpaper to lightly sand off the oxidation and crud on the clutch band. The clutch seemed to be engaging the winch drum in only two small areas before I did this. Mainsail didn't slip at all yesterday and we had some nice strong winds and a wonderful sail. Something about sailing on a weekday late afternoon.

Ben

[ebb]

GOOD ON YA, Ben!

For those of us who don't have access to an antique Atlas lathe,:cool:
our Ariel Association here has ready made black delrin sleeve bearings for sale at cost.

The delrin sleeve comes with two O-rings that are integral to the bearing*
One O-ring is in a groove on the inside of the sleeve and bears against the bronze rudder post.
The second is in a groove on the outside of the sleeve - it bears against the fiberglass tube.

Not only will the rudder post loose its slop but the new sleeve will keep water from getting into the cockpit through the tube.

Pleasurable sialing!
__________________________________________________ __________________________________________________ ________________
*Believe that bearings and O-rings can be gotten separately from the Association. Old bearings can be worn and/or broken as lit'lgull's was. The O'rings supplied with the new delrins are neopreen, I believe. I can mail free to anybody a double set of EPDM O-rings that fit the original and, of course, the new one.
I believe they will last longer and will not flatten out as readily and want replacement as the regular rings.

[Ariel 109]

Thanks Ebb

I didn't use any O-rings on my delrin bearing. The fit on the shaft came out so nice I don't think any real amount of water could push through. And I like the small level of fiction / dampening on the tiller I ended up getting. I wonder if the purpose of the internal O-ring is to provide some resistance on the rudder shaft. Kind of like a motorcycle steering dampener.

Here's a better picture of my old South Bend nine inch lathe. Most of these were made for industrial art classes. That was back when this country believed it's people should be skilled in something other than shoving stuff into shopping carts. (Help, I beginning to sound like my father.)

Lathes are very relaxing to operate, almost hypnotic. Still you need to be careful.

There's this great picture of L. Francis Herreshoff with his lathe. I can't find on the internet. But I'll try and scan it when I get a chance. He was well known for making small working model naval cannons with his. I don't know how that would go over today.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1810.jpg

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Old Francis working on his Hjorth bench lathe.


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/image004.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Picked up this faded beauty from Trader John's antique shop yesterday before going out sailing. Fits the threads of 3" deck flange up in the bow of 109. Hope to pull out my body hammers and dollies and get rid of the dents. Then solder up the small cracks in the wire bead around the opening. I like the "aged" patina so I'm going to keep as is.

I've been using a borrowed cast aluminum air vent from the old nearby Vanguard, quite stylish, and it has really helped keep the boat from getting too musty below.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1811.jpg

[Commander 147]

That should force some air below and keep her ventilated. The scoop portion looks larger than I usually see.

[Ariel 109]

A bit of hammer and dollie work, some silver soldering and a patina. Now it looks "older than the hills".

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1814.jpg

[Commander 147]

How did you do the patina Ben?

[Ariel 109]

Jerry

After using the hammer and dollies to smooth out the numerous dents in the air vent the old pitted nickel plating was flaking off and shattered. So I ran over to a friend's shop and borrowed an ounce or two of a pre-mixed brown brass and bronze patina. I heated the air vent up with a propane torch and wiped on the patina mix with a natural fiber brush a few times. Salt water should finish the job. It's all kind of silly, really. But fun to reuse old hardware.

[mbd]

It's all kind of silly, really. But fun to reuse old hardware.
No, it adds lots of character and class, IMHO!

[Ariel 109]

Taken this morning. I finally named 109, she's called Noesis. I really like the way the word sounds. It's got that greek "mythology" thing going for it. I don't know her previous name(s). And see no trace of old lettering on the transom.

Ben

(If you want to know what Noesis means.)

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Noesis

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1821.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Here's a shot of the air vent installed.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1824.jpg

[ebb]

Obviously we would never use a common urban expression like 'BLING'

to describe a cowl of such character and forward position.


Just checked the urdan dictionary for what irreverence they have, Looks like

'BLONG' may be a word we can take back from the street to

characterize righteous and venerable fittings such as Noesis' refurb cowl.


Another oldie but goodie are the skene chocks (in post #67)
with those beautifully molded 'come-hither' fingers to hold the line.

The two in the foreground of the photo are the most perfect NO-CHAFE chocks I've ever seen.
They'd work in the bow AND the quarters at the stern of the Ariel.
Obviously MARINIUM would love to have these beauties in BRONZE!

If I ever get around to it, it would be a gas to make models in clay for casting
almost exactly what you have there.
Gorgeous stuff!

[Ariel 109]

Noesis (109) this evening at her mooring.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF1857.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Gusty sail on Eastchester Bay. The main sail is rolled around the boom to about the reef point. Fun sail.

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My wife (professor of costume history) at the helm. It was her ideal to get Noesis.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_8427.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Noesis chasing Hans in the Ensign today on the Sound.

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[Ariel 109]

Two shots Hans took of Noesis from the Ensign this past Sunday.


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSC00019.jpg


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSC00018.jpg

[ebb]

Videos too short!!!!

[Ariel 109]

Epic videos will be forthcoming!

I got a spinnaker pole! This came off an ugly, but I say, interesting Dufour 27. I cut off about 6", riveted the ends back on and ended up with a pole that matches the Ariel's "J" dimension of 114". I resized the bridle to make the rings stand off the pole about 16", which looks right. I'm slowing but surely getting ready to fly my never used vintage Ratsey spinnaker! Next year Wednesday night racing here we come.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2028.jpg

[Bill]

Fantastic! We expect to read reports of your Wednesday night "beer can" exploits in the "Sailing and Events" forum.:cool:

[Ariel 109]

Paragliding around City Island I took a moment and snapped this picture.............Alright, I walked up on the City Island bridge and shot this vista surrounding Noesis. The Ensign is back, off to right.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2030.jpg

[mbd]

Neat pic! It looks like you two are moored out all by yourselves though - what's up with that?

[Tony G]

Looks just about right for neighbors to me!

One I noticed, and it might just be the angle of the photo, does Noesis' spreaders angle downward? If it's not an optical illusion possibly the spreader sockets may be mounted to the mast upside down? If that is the case they are pushing into your mast at a less than ideal angle. But as pointed out on this forum many times already, our extrusions are incredibly 'beefy' for a boat this size so I wouldn't expect the big stick to fall overboard any time soon.

Just an observation. Hope it's nothing. ;)

[Ariel 109]

Tony, the spreaders rake backward a little bit. I think that makes them look a little weird. Thanks for the concern.

Why's the boat is out there all by itself? Well it's really not, there other boats nearby but out of the picture. I guess you could say that Noesis is moored in a little unexplainable in between.

[Ariel 109]

Fall is here.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2041.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Emily and I attached the fancy letters to Ariel 109. At the same moment nearly every motor boat on City Island decided to drive by. But the wife did a good job of steadying the dingy while I tried my best to line things up right.

We used New Times Roman who's design is attributed by some to the great yacht designer Starling Burgess, interesting story. Check out the link.

http://chutzpah.typepad.com/slow_movement/2009/08/ft-the-history-of-the-times-new-roman-typeface.html

Then we went sailing.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2058.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Short solo sail this evening with the sun setting on Eastchester Bay. Couldn't let the beautiful winds of the past few days get away.


<object height="385" width="480">


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[Ariel 109]

Well it's been one year since I've taken up with Ariel 109, Noesis and started to sail again, after a hiatus of twenty five years. It was quite a nervous undertaking for me in the beginning. What was I getting myself in for? Was there something major wrong with the boat I wasn't seeing? Could I afford a sailboat? Well things have worked out nicely. The piecemeal approach to fixing up Noesis is moving right along as well as getting out and sailing her at least once a week. She still throws me a loop every once and awhile, almost as if she trying to tell me "Hey stupid, you've got to do something about this over here!".

But how lucky to have picked getting an Ariel. And thanks you guys for creating a community of support with this website. It's truly unique!

Ben

[Ariel 109]

I finally got around to getting the Johnson 8hp Sailmaster outboard that came with Noesis running. The engine was froze up when I pulled it out of the Ariel's lazarette just after I got the boat a year ago. Pulled the plugs, dripped some oil into the cylinders and freed up the motor. I was very lucky and a little startled when the Sailmaster started on the second pull. Runs perfect and it's really not that old, built in 98. I don't think it's had much use, looks new under the engine cover. Tried out the motor on this new project, a great old classic dingy. Please don't laugh I really love this little boat and it rows really nice.

Projects, projects........



http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2070.jpg

[Tony G]

Ben

Congrats on reviving that outboard. Ah, the sweet smell of victory. As far as the dingy goes, I like it. I highly doubt it will fit on the fore deck but it has nice lines :)

[SkipperJer]

That looks like a lot of flat-bottomed skiffs used for crabbing on the Chesapeake.

[Ariel 109]

I think my "new" dingy was an old fishing rental skiff. It's got to have been built, my guess, in the 40's or 50's. The skiff's flat bottom makes it easy getting into the Ariel while out on the mooring. Brockway skiffs were built nearby in Connecticut for many years. I'm not sure if this is a Brockway.

[Ariel 109]

Here we are back at the dock for the winter.

I started working on the deck issues over the past summer, mostly on the un-cored areas around the lazarette. But now I need to get tackling on the cored areas damaged by the dearly departed lifeline stanchions and bow pulpit. The "crude" marine plywood patches I chaulked down on the deck worked well, keeping the boat dry below. So now off we go with the balsa core, fiberglass and low temperature setting epoxy.......

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2077.jpg

[paulsproesser]

Ben, Could you please send me the measurements of the winch blocks that you rebuilt. Specifically the top and bottom, and inside and outside measurements because during deconstruction of Commander 5 the winch blocks were badly deteriorated. It would be greatly appreciated! Take a look at the latest postings for Commander #5. Its getting really ugly.

[Ariel 109]

Paul,

Next time I'm up at City Island I'll measure the winch blocks on Noesis. I'm not sure it will be too helpful because your Commander has it's winches in a different place than my Ariel.

I remember making the tops of the winch blocks a half inch larger in radius than the bases of the winches. And that the tops of the blocks lie a half inch below the tops of the coamings. The winch base tops are perpendicular to the coamings. You might be able to figure the size of the winch base bottoms by looking for old marks on your boat's deck. The blocks taper vertically on their curved side only a few degrees (7° maybe?).

Good luck,

Ben

[Bill]

Ben, Could you please send me the measurements of the winch blocks that you rebuilt. Specifically the top and bottom, and inside and outside measurements because during deconstruction of Commander 5 the winch blocks were badly deteriorated. It would be greatly appreciated! Take a look at the latest postings for Commander #5. Its getting really ugly.

Paul, a quick search using "winch base" turns up 30 threads in which this was discussed. What you're looking for may be in there somewhere . . .

[Ariel 109]

Getting ready for this upcoming season's Wednesday night races with the Ariel. I found this vintage (1960's) yacht timer at this little antique store on City Island run by a 91 year old gentleman named Cappy. The Swiss maker Gallet made some nice timepieces. This one is nothing fancy but feels good in the hand, runs nice and very reasonable in price.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_8460.jpg

[Ariel 109]

The warmer temperatures of the past few days allowed me to epoxy the two gaping holes in my deck that I covered up last season with plywood and marine caulk. Noesis' deck is going to look pretty spiffy very soon.

My two "invasive species" mute swan friends keep me company up at City Island while I'm working on Noesis. They like drinking the fresh rain water that accumulates in the dingies.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/swansandboats.jpg

[Ariel 109]

A blast of cold temperature weather, 30° high, hit City Island today. I decided to take the risk and deploy the warmed at room temperature West 105 / 205 epoxy and glass cloth to complete the outer shell of the bow deck repair, devil may care. In the aid of my endeavor a 250w heat lamp bulb was purchased and clamped to the forestay which in conjunction with a day of bright sunshine set up and harden the epoxy mix.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2188.jpg

[Commander 147]

Ben

You are not the only one using a heat lamp to cure epoxy. I was tabbing in the lower half of the new bulk heads last night after work and decided since it was likely to get down into the 40's over night that I would turn the heat lamps on it to keep it toasty warm for curing.

Still need to tab in the upper portion which I will do that tonight hopefully.

[Ariel 109]

Jerry, your mast support bulkhead looks really great. I admire all the effort and engineering that you've put into it.

Ben

[Commander 147]

Thanks Ben

Having seen some of your work I would expect the same from you. I've been impressed with the work you have done and I believe I have only seen a small portion of what you are capable of. These good old boats deserve the best from us which is what we expect from them. Sail on !!! :) _/)~~~_/)~~~_/)

[Ariel 109]

Spoke too soon about being finished cutting into the Ariel's deck. I opened up two areas that felt soft behind my "gaping" hole bow repair. The balsa core in each of these areas was intact and in fresh condition but had delaminated from the deck skin. Oh well, it doesn't seem a very big deal anymore to cut into the deck and do these type of repairs. Hope to finished with the epoxy tomorrow and move on to fairing, sanding and painting in the coming weeks.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2192.jpg

[Commander 147]

Ben

Have you made a decision on how you will handle the non-skid? This is the product I plan to use. It has some good reviews and I think it will look more original than some of the other options.

http://www.kiwigrip.com/

[mbd]

Tim Lackey used Kiwigrip on a CD 25d here: http://www.lackeysailing.com/surprise/november2010/112910.htm

I had him mix Interlux Interdeck beige and white for my non-skid and have been very please with the results.

[Tim D.]

I used Kiwigrip recently on my CD Typhoon and found it incredibly easy to apply. I was able to put it over a darker color with minimum touch-up after a single coat.

GOB magazine just recently had a very good article on it. They recommend it as possibly a two person job,but I applied it on a cool dry day and had no problem doing by myself and getting the tape pulled before it dried (a important step)

[ebb]

quote: "What makes KiwiGrip unlike other coatings is that it's not just another industrial product - it is a marine product developed by a yachtsman for yachtmen." Jamestown $40 qt.
Give me a break, a marine coating is a marine coating, even if it's used in your basement. And then how does a yachtsman (is HE a sailor?) actually make a better chemist?

The coating is described as a 'hard acrylic polymer.'
But it does sound easy to use once you get the knack of getting the texture you want. And pulling the tape.

Visiting the Pacheca site, the FEEL of the antiskid is never mentioned.
This raises a red flag. This flag has feet on it, backsides and thighs on it, knees and hands.
Big flag.

Comparing from the lit and sample chips I've got in the past,
I think that going with a less agressive and pliable rubber polyurethane with rubber granules is something to look into before getting HARD.

just my opinion.:confused:

[Tim D.]

Well Mr. Ebb;) Maybe I will have to drive the Typhoon down so you can roll around on it.:D

I would not say it is a "hard" surface, certainly softer than the original and grit and paint surfaces. And it is very sticky, the first mate said it was almost fun to go forward.

[Commander 147]

In addition to being a very good sure footed surface (I purchased some and did test samples with it) It allows for many more options on the final texture than you can get with any other product. For example maybe I'm getting old and soft but I do not want to sit on sand imbedded in paint. I where shorts most of the time when I'm sailing and for me that is just too rough to sit on. With Kiwigrip you have the option of taking a finish sander and knocking down the high spots in the areas where you sit and making it much more tolerable for a long day on the water. You still get a sure footed surface but without the irritating pointed particles poking into your bottom.

In addition there is much less surface prep that needs to be done because it hides a lot of what is under it.

This is just my opinion but I believe Kiwigrip gives you a finish that is closer to what you would expect on a new boat than any other product I have found. But again that is just my opinion.

[Westgate]

Any chance we could see some pictures of this product in action??


Andrew

[Commander 147]

Sorry but I couldn't help myself :-)


KiwiGrip anti-slip deck coating, best nonskid deck on the market.
http://www.kiwigrip.com/images1/capsize.jpg
For when traction really matters


http://www.pachena.com/gallery2/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=112&g2_serialNumber=1

[Tim D.]

And here are a couple more;

7339

7338

[Ariel 109]

I've already bought the paint supplies for the Noesis' decks. The plan is to apply a few coats of primer for hiding and fill. Trim, cabin top and cockpit sides with white Interlux Brightsides. And the decks with flatten light blue Brightsides with Intergrip added. I need to wait until the weather warms up a bit, we've got new snow on the ground here, but I'm ready.

I do like the KiwiGrip product. Sounds like less work than using a polyurethane finish. I am torn, does it aesthetically go along with my 1960's yachting reenactment mentality?

[mbd]

Heh! In the first picture, it almost looks like the guy on top is drinking a beer...

Is Kiwigrip hard to clean? My Interdeck is a pain, but does OK with a good stiff brush.

[Commander 147]

Mike

Tim will probably answer your question based on his personal experience but the surface of Kiwigrip from my samples appeared to be very similar to the non-skid on my last boat and I found that Oxi-clean water (hot) with a good stiff deck brush worked very well on that boat. I will find out later for myself if it works as well on kiwigrip.

[Tim D.]

So far it has cleaned off with just a brush and water, but then I haven't spilled anything bad on it.

[Ariel 109]

While toiling away on Noesis' topsides I was able to install the original deck flange for my old bronze air vent.

Last year I caulked the venerable air vent in place with 5200 in the existing, too large, deck flange. Which worked alright but didn't allow me to rotate the air vent.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2200.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2201.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Yesterday evening after working on Noesis all afternoon. The sanding, painting and varnishing continues.......

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2205.jpg

[Commander 147]

You know I never tire of looking at these good old boats. :-)

[Ariel 109]

My first time atop Noesis' mast, or any mast. Installed a spinnaker halyard swivel block, topping lift swivel block and new mast spreader boots. Getting high enough to reach the top of the mast required an additional foothold "stirrup" tied to the masthead. Once you get up there it's not so bad.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF7086-1.jpg

[Ariel 109]

I haven't posted any pictures of Ariel 109 Noesis' cabin interior before. The original Pearson dinette table came with the boat. Do any of you guys also have one of these? I'm going to try and paint the interior sometime this summer. But I'm keeping the wood-grained tacky Formica intact, I kind of like it. And I also like the Ariel's tabletop Formica pattern, I had it spec for a job at work, oh well.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2297.jpg

[mbd]

Original? That's the first one I've seen. Looks like it attaches to the bulkhead? A cabin/cockpit table has been on my to-do list for some time but continuously gets superseded.

[Ariel 109]

Mike,

The dinette table does attach to two metal clips mounted on the bulkhead door's frame and is supported by a hinged teak leg that locks into the cabin sole. I'm pretty sure it's original to the boat. Pearson did offer a table on it's list of optional equipment, price $55.00. And it uses the same teak moulding and tabletop laminates as the rest of the boat. It's kind of an big awkward object to have to stow down below, I need to come up with a solution besides tossing it overboard.

http://www.pearsonariel.org/document/Fact2.htm

I also have these port screens. Pearson sold them for $4.00 each. I don't know if these are that rare. One day when 109's vee-berth ports actual open these may come in handy.

Ben

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2299.jpg

[Ariel 109]

I made this mooring anchor for the Ariel out of TIG welded steel last night. Still need to fill the bowl with concrete and metal scrap. I formed the bowl out of 11ga. flat sheet on my coveted Eckold Kraftformer using a doming head. And the rest is solid steel rod and some flat. I think when it's done it should weigh over 200 lbs., pictured it weighs a little over 100 lbs.. My intention is to use this mooring anchor for only a season or two, the next one will be stainless!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSCF2301.jpg

[mbd]

Ben, first off, I am very impressed with yours and others' on the forum abilities and ingenuity. That mooring looks great.

Now to my point, I don't know how exposed you are, but I have a 250lb mushroom mooring and dragged on a couple of occasions until my mooring guy put on an additional 15' of extra heavy mooring chain. So you may be right on the edge of what you need to keep the boat in place. Food for thought. (BTW, I thought I was buying a 300lb mushroom, according to the previous owner and his paperwork!)

[Ariel 109]

Thanks for the advice Mike, I'm using a heavy bottom chain on the mooring.

I poured the concrete last night and took the mushroom up to City Island this morning. I think my mushroom weighs only about 170 lbs. currently. To get the weight up I'm going to cut up one of the external ballast I took from the Ariel's keel and wrap the lead chunks with cable ties around the bottom of mushroom's post. The mooring's position is really well protected from weather and the bottom is all soft mud. The mushroom should sink deep in the mud pretty quickly. We're going to set it Saturday morning.

[Ariel 109]

Back on the mooring. Pretty exciting morning, assembling and setting the new mooring, and towing out and tying up the Ariel. Here we go again!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_0006.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Took my sister in-law Figgy, visiting from Colorado, up to see the Ariel out on it's mooring at City Island. She took these nice pictures. The first is of me rowing passed our local lobster boat the mighty Scungi, man can they kick up a wake!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/P1040855.jpg

Here's a new addition to the neighborhood, an old wood Rhodes designed sloop. It's mast looks like it lost some height. School teacher living aboard, good for him!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/P1040858.jpg

Me putting on the Ariel's mainsail. Still have to finish painting the deck. Hans' Ensign floats in the background.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/P1040865.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Racing my friend Hans in his Ensign early this morning on Eastchester Bay. He's gotten his Ensign sailing nice and fast these days in spite of his battens falling out of their pockets in the video. I'm going to have to move my genoa tracks forward to reduced my weather helm so I can keep up with him.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Om4-Tn7_qVc&feature=channel_video_title

[Ariel 109]

Here's a video taken of Ariel Noesis from the Ensign Passion. I think from this clip you can see the slack leech on my genoa.


<iframe width="425" height="349" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/VaPbkNiHFOY" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Ariel 109]

Moved the genoa tracks forward on Noesis this morning. Went sailing afterward in a stiff morning breeze, having a great time. The new lead positions gave the genoa a beautiful shape, no more slack leech. The boat was faster and the tiller pressure felt reduced.

Another video from this morining! Still haven't finished painting the deck.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iHuNdLusTLw

[Commander 147]

Nice video Ben

It's things like that that keep me motivated to get Destiny completed. Thanks to friends I get to sail about once a month lately but it just isn't like sailing your own boat.

Thanks for posting the video.

[Ariel 109]

After the work procuring a spinnaker pole, running a new halyard, topping lift, foreguy and sheets for Ariel 109 Noesis we finally flew the chute. Glorious, I think this was the first time 109 has every carried aloft this sail.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_0316.jpg

[Ariel 109]

Dove the Ariel this past weekend and scraped the mussels and barnacles off her bottom. The accumulation wasn't too bad, I have been scrubbing the hull with a brush on a long pole. Afterward I finished the job with a Scotch Bright pad. I should have done this before, the bottom cleaning along with the repositioning forward of the Ariel's genoa tracks have elimination my weather helm complaints. The boat is now a pleasure to sail even as the winds pick up into the higher teens.

Urban Commander? Spotted this Commander floating in Newtown Creek, an estuary of the East River that runs between Brooklyn in Queens near my home. I don't think it's been moved in several years.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_0348.jpg

[Bill]

Urban Commander? Spotted this Commander floating in Newtown Creek, an estuary of the East River that runs between Brooklyn in Queens near my home. I don't think it's been moved in several years.

Any chance you could get the hull and reg numbers? Then we can see if she's in the registry or a "new" boat . .

Bill

[Ariel 109]

Went over to Long Island City and investigated the "Urban Commander". Found out she is owned a gentleman named Duke Riley. The man has a Wikipedia page, a celebrity! Can there be more than one Duke Riley around theses part? Peter, the owner of one of the neighboring vessels reports that the "Urban Commander" is taken out for sails and is cared for. No hull plate visible.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duke_Riley

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_0352.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_0354.jpg

[Bill]

The Pearson mfg plate is visible in the last photo. It's in the center of the bridge deck just aft of the companionway. Hull number should be on it. NY133LD appears to be the state reg #. And, you have a skipper name, so only the hull number remains unknown. Hopefully, you can board her for a look . . .

[Ariel 109]

Drats!!! Good eye Bill. I was looking for the mfg plate to be on the lazarette bulkhead, were my Ariel's was at one time. I will once again journey forth and venture to Long Island City to ascertained the "Urban Commander's" hull number.

What's kind of cool is that these motley boats are pioneering the rebirth of yachting on the East River. Long ago the best New York sand-baggers were built and raced nearby. And the yacht America was built directly across the river it what's now called the East Village.

[Lucky Dawg]

Interesting companionway doors. Like the bell, but I wonder about it clanging away under sail!

Great videos above. Thanks for posting.

From the Wikipedia link above - this is the kind of charachter we need on this forum! "In 2009 he constructed four ships for the purpose of staging a Naumachia (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Naumachia), a Roman-style gladiatorial (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gladiator) sea battle staged for an audience. Riley's Naumachia, entitled, Those About to Die Salute You, was staged at the Queens Museum of Art (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Queens_Museum_of_Art) in a reflecting pool left over from the 1964 World's Fair (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/1964_World%27s_Fair) that was filled with 70,000 gallons of water for the occasion.<sup id="cite_ref-queens_4-0" class="reference">[5] (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duke_Riley#cite_note-queens-4)</sup> Since the weapons were baguette (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Baguette) and tomatoes (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tomatoes), and the audience as well as the warriors dressed in period costume, Artnet (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Artnet) described the event as something between a Toga party (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Toga_party) and fraternity food fight (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Food_fight).<sup id="cite_ref-5" class="reference">[ (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Duke_Riley#cite_note-5)"</sup>

[Ariel 109]

Here's some shots the Photoboat.com people took of Noesis (Ariel 109) this past Sunday. They were photographing a J-80 regatta and came out and took some shots of me while I sailed past. Really nice day which included sailing nearby a 70 foot plus maxi-boat reeling out her giant light blue gennaker, wow! The noises that boat made were prehistoric.

http://www.photoboatgallery.net/p1041556439/h47ba2f7#h47ba2f7

I still do not yet know the number of the "Urban Commander". I emailed the owner and received no reply. The way those boats are moored on Newtown creek makes it difficult to get aboard to read the builder's plate, a long leap.

[mbd]

Ben - those are some great pics! The third one, straight from the bow almost makes the boat look "beamy"! I think my favorite is the last one: the captain at the helm scooting right along, Noesis unmistakably across the stern, and the city skyline in the background. Obviously a great day for sailing! :)

PS. Egads!!! I just saw the prices...

[Lucky Dawg]

Wow! Those are some crisp clean pearly white sails. I'm jealous! Great pictures - love the last one in the series.

[Ariel 109]

Thanks you guys! It was a beautiful day for sailing. The distant cityscape of Manhattan has that Land of Oz / Emerald City quality from this perspective.

In that last shot they took you can see the new 1 WTC rising just above my port side coaming, right at the winch. Pretty exciting to see it finally rising after all these years. I'd guess it's about a third of the way up right now.

And yes I'm so lucky to have those sails, they came with the boat. They've been well cared for in the past. The Main is by Doyle and the jib dates earlier and is by Hild. Doyle bought out Hild here on City Island at some point. I know I'm always bragging about my vintage Ratsey and Lapthorn spinnaker but again, what a beautiful example of craft of the sail maker.

[Commander 147]

Hi Ben

I just saw your pictures. They really are good pictures. And your sails do really look good. The other thing I noticed is Noesis was sitting very well on her lines and looked well balanced. A very pretty sight indeed. Good to see you enjoying her.

[Ariel 109]

Thanks Jerry.

With the S-boat racing season winding down I'm getting more chances to take Noesis out sailing. I love the balance the boat now has, a pleasure to sail. The Ariel been a great teacher for me.

Ben

[Ariel 109]

Second time sailing Noesis' spinnaker. We started this run directly downwind but the constantly changing winds of Eastchester bay had us in a reach by the time I took this video. For a time we were really flying. This is a nice relaxing video clip.


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Hum6Q6lIv0o&sns=em

[Ariel 109]

Last sail of the season.

[Ariel 109]

Last sail of the season. Beautiful morning of brisk winds and some sunshine.

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/-WPQfs3HtWA" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/HCg4GFXgVGM" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/jgrXwjPhpH0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

[Ariel 109]

Here's a winter project, a set of bronze frames for the cabin windows.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/7553aa29.jpg

[bill@ariel231]

cool!... are the bronze frames from another boat or from the foundry?

[Ariel 109]

Hi Bill,

The bronze frames are from an old boat. Maybe an early Triton? Got a good deal on them from Trader John's Chandlery on City Island. They were chrome plated originally, still are on the backside. Since I only have the outer bronze frames I need to reuse my existing aluminum inner frames. So I have a little welding and machining to do to match up the bolt holes between the frames.

Ben

[Bill]

See post #24 in the following thread for the source of the large port light frames:

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?1269-Original-Pearson-Hardware&daysprune=-1

[Ariel 109]

Two years of care-taking Ariel 109 Noesis. I've got a list of projects to attempt this upcoming winter. Everything takes time.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_0651.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_0646.jpg

[mbd]

I can feel her smiling. That's one happy, well-sailed little boat! Looking forward to seeing your bronze frames installed...

[ebb]

And from that, it is obvious that this boat is alive in the water - something breathing and animal about her.

All modern sailboats, all modern boats are impositions upon the water, about 99% testosterone proof. 100% artifice and pretense.

There's none of that in an Ariel and Commander. The pleasure comes with being one with the water and the wind. Not slamming around on it with intent to overcome and possess.

Looking at the pics as an 'elevation' view of an Ariel fuselage: (Grew up with mock dogfights overhead on LongIsland by Thunderbolts and Navy Hellcats. Boy, was that cool! But a little later discovered a really sexy looking killer called the P51 Mustang. Could see myself (10 years old) inside that cockpit bubble! These spiffy sharks of the skies with all the right curves were still napalming and strafing humans in Korea - my war. If truth be told, talked my way into USArmy Harbor Craft Repair, and just missed lugging BARs up PorkChopHill.. by a hair of my chinnychinchin.)

Looking at those two photos of the A109, imagining wings on that dynamic body, her rudder and ailerons in take-off position? Easy to imagine what Alberg airplane wings could look like.
Yes? Just fantasy. Imco there isn't a bit of a suggestion of a warbird in any Alberg. Gull, maybe.
Or Canvasback.

Infact there's very little of anything mechanical to that Ariel.
It looks alive. It's not a burden on the water. Real and inviting.
And promises of good times.

Lucky we are!

[paulsproesser]

Two years of care-taking Ariel 109 Noesis. I've got a list of projects to attempt this upcoming winter. Everything takes time.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_0651.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/IMG_0646.jpg

Ben, I see how she rides higher from the waterline obviously this is partly from the removal of the lead. Oh and I got the plate thanks again just haven't had a chance to get it to the plater

[paulsproesser]

Ben, I see how she rides higher from the waterline obviously this is partly from the removal of the lead. Oh and I got the plate thanks again just haven't had a chance to get it to the plater

Oh btw you could benefit from the solar yard light being on the mooring ball it would let other boats see you better at night

[Ariel 109]

Hi Paul,

Glad you got the builder's plate safe and sound. I've been so busy with work I haven't made any progress on getting cast another plate for 109 out of copper. But I did enjoy working on your plate.

109 does float high. Not only is she missing the 200 pounds of external ballast. But also she missing the weight of an outboard motor, stanchions, bow pulpit, cushions, and water in her water tank. So she might now be 400 pounds lighter than a typical Ariel. I think that for the kind of sailing I do, day-sailing on Long Island Sound, the added speed and responsiveness of the lighter boat is more fun.

I have a nice Johnson 8hp Sailmaster outboard that came with 109 but it's heavy and a pain to place into and out of the lazarette, you need take the control arm off to articulate it into place. I really don't want to drag the motor through the water while sailing. Borrowed an old light weight British Seagull several times on 109 and while primitive, no gearbox, you can easily install the motor in the lazarette well to get back to the mooring if the wind dies. But I do prefer sailing without a engine aboard. I know it's old fashion to get becalmed but with good company, food and refreshments it can be a pleasure.

Ben

[Ariel 109]

The strong west winds of the past few days gave us some very low tides at City Island. My old friend Hans took this shot of Noesis stuck in the mud with the top of her rudder showing.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DSC00001.jpg

Odds and Ends

Made a drip tray for the old Homestrand / Kenyon alcohol yacht stove I bought awhile back. Also found some new suction cup feet to keep the stove secure on the Ariel's galley formica counter top, they work great. I really like this stove, didn't cost much, it's simple to use and works great. The burners were made by the Swedish company Svea, easy to find parts.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/75464605.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/d4641613.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/e89db9dd.jpg

I salvaged this Sea Swing gimbaled stove off a beached abandon sailboat last spring. Hoping to fit it one day on the S-Boat, make tea between races! Cleaned up nice with my bead blaster. I now await the arrival of a vintage (1930's) Primus 54 kerosene stove I "won" on EBay to complete the workings. These old spirit stoves are beautifully designed and addicting.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/1288fbf8.jpg

I lent my trusty Captain Currey knife to someone on a job site this summer and they promptly lost it, dang! Searching for a worthy replacement has been ongoing. A little shop near my home started selling the venerable Opinel pocket knife. Peeling an apple with one of theses knives makes you feel like a french peasant taking a break from feeding the pigs and milking the cows. The beech wood handle can't be more unpretentious! Next the German made sailor's knife with the brass anchor inlayed into the rosewood handle, blade from Solingen. Nice knife but no way to attached a lanyard! Guess I could drill a hole. Finally the knife I've been lusting after, on EBay with a BIN for half the price of what West Marine is asking, the glow in the dark Wichard sailing knife. If Brancusi designed a sailing knife it would look like the Wichard, a masterpiece!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/52360a5c.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/317606f1.jpg

[goodsteel53]

All fun, wonderful toys! Thank you for posting the pics... eye candy for sailors, and good ideas for many of us!

[paulsproesser]

Hey ben , great stuff ,looks like you don't have any problem at all occupying yourself. We went to check on the boat yesterday and our keel is in the mud too but she's still in an upright positio and the rudder is still underwater but she won't move . Its the lowes I've ever seen it or that I can remember

[Ariel 109]

Here are some pictures of the circa 1946 Primus #54 kerosene burner that I'm trying to fit into Sea Swing stove.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/24cc67a2.jpg

The Primus stove came in this nice pine box, very cracker-barrel.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/18c74936.jpg

Along with the stove came these instructions.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/84a29a0f.jpg

Here's the burner in place in the Sea Swing.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/5d2a0a3c.jpg


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/88bad7d1.jpg

[ebb]

Ben, the instant I read 'Brancusi' I had to internet Wichard.
Wichard makes fine fixings out of stainless for sailboats.
I've just become intimate with their eclectic but well made 9510 baby-stay tang that fits into a vertical slot you carve in the mast.

Just wondering if such a fine Deco style riggers knife actually had the designers name attached.
google: World Knives: Nautical Knives
www.worldknives.com/types/nautical-knives-9.html
Boggling array - and so many knives be known by people names.
And that one is special. Can almost feel the heft of it!. Folded it looks like a broach from the twenties we might see on the Road Show.

Seems like a knowledgable site, I'd bet this guy would know, and it would be cool to know, who designed it.
Monsieur Wichard? Jacques Coupant?

Looks like the Glow and the 9510 cost about the same.
Talking about art, that BLUE BOX photo of yours should be framed to hang on the wall!!! That SeaSwing is definitely Brancusi.
That beach handled Optinel (Joseph Optinel) apple peeler might be a Basque pattern, famed in its own right.

[mbd]

I can't wait to see Ben's boat 10 years from now - she'll be a floating antique shop with a library of out of print marine books to match - one of a kind! So very cool!

What's next Ben? Maybe wooden spars and a gaff rig? :)

[Ariel 109]

Thanks Mike and Ebb,

I am currently getting a small lithograph (circa 1890's) of the USS Brooklyn by the artist Frederic S. Cozzens framed, with the intention to hang in up somewhere in the Ariel's cabin. So I'm going to have an art collection also to go along with all those old books! Anyone have an old Chelsea clock and barometer?

Here's a Cozzens watercolor sketch, these go for some money. I like this one. The Old Print Shoppe here in New York has it for sale currently. Believe it came from the recently defunct Knickerbocker Yacht Club.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/67401.jpg

The knife page Ebb is wonderful, I think the French make the best pocket knives. Wichard makes nice stuff, if I every need a forged surgical implant I hope it's one of theirs.

http://www.wichard.com/chrome_cobalt_hips_implants_implant_surgery_medica l_implants-application_medical-42-UK-ME-forge_precision.html

[Ariel 109]

Finally started on installing the bronze window / light frames on #109. Removed two of the aluminum frames sets on the boat. Brought them back to the shop to mate them up with the four bronze frames I got from Trader John Chandlery. At the shop I discovered the two types of frames were slightly different in size, drats!!! I set about solving this annoying dilemma by cutting the bronze frames, bending the curve slightly and welding them to nearly the same size as the original aluminum frames. They came out nice in the end, oh well. Still need to be finished and polished. Need to go find some abrasion resistant plexiglass acrylic for the new lights next.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/610a9e25.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/450fb083.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/e5b471c6.jpg

[Bill]

See page 31 in the manual for a discussion of early vs later window frames.

[Ariel 109]

Thanks Bill, guess it's time to join up and reap the rewards of membership. Although ignorance can be bliss. If I had known the frames were different sizes I would have likely not started this project.

Sanded out the bronze frames with 150 grit sandpaper, and a foam sanding pad on a polisher. Best to use a slow speed and short burst of power. Next stop buffing wheel.



http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/99b884a7.jpg

[Tony G]

Hicarumba! you do great work. I wouldn't know they'd been through surgury if I hadn't seen it. Nice polisher too.

[Ariel 109]

Thanks Tony!

I'm trying to get the deadlights done and move onto some other projects. Promised myself that #109 would sail the Wednesday night races at City Island this summer, they start up second week of May. I seem to have a crew lined up. Should be interesting, although we will be sailing quite a different course then the modern racing boats that are the majority in this series.

Ben

[Commander 147]

Ben

You are good with metal or wood. I can only claim some minor talent with wood. I wish I had your skills with the metal working. Ariel 109 can be darn thankful she has you to care for her. Like Tony I am impressed with your work on the lite frames as much as he is. Nice job.

[jshisha]

Ben if your are looking for crew during the week at City Island, I would love to join you. Drinks are on me at the Crab Shack

[Ariel 109]

Thanks Jerry! I gained my metalworking skills came mostly unintentionally. Really an outgrowth of customers requests and keeping work in shop. Many great books, videos, websites and workshops are available today for learning metalworking, mostly thanks to the custom car and motorcycle enthusiasts. When I started 18 years ago the only information I could find was from old industrial arts textbooks, which were incredibly dry and not very helpful. Here's a link to my metalworking hero Ron Fournier site. His "Metal Fabricator's Handbook" I think is the best introduction to metalwork out there!

http://www.fournierenterprises.com/

Jake, it would be great to have you along racing on #109 this summer. Can you PM me your contact information?

Ben

[Ariel 109]

Mission accomplished, new windows installed. Reused the aluminum frames on the inside, bronze frames on the outside. Strange to be able to look out of these windows, the old ones being so crazed.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/9ff30473.jpg

I'm sure the bronze will be well on the way to turning green next time I get up to the boat. One day I'm going to have to paint this boat.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/4113cd95.jpg




http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/8728637f.jpg

Got this new depth sounder, trying to figure out how to wire it up.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/425d0795.jpg

[mbd]

Got this new depth sounder, trying to figure out how to wire it up.
Ha! You should put a BIG 3'7" flag on there!

So, did you install the deadlights by yourself?? What did you use seal them? Did you just tap new screw holes in your "new" bronze frames?

[Ariel 109]

Mike, of course I did the work myself, didn't win the Mega Millions!

Used several rolls of a grey butyl tape, purchased at an rv-trailer suppy, to seal the windows and frames. Certainly an easier method than using a tubed sealant.

First I welded shut the old screw holes on the the bronze frames, they didn't match the aluminum frames. Then I drilled and tapped the bronze frames to match the holes with the interior aluminum frames. Making a blind hole tap thread in bronze is not too hard if you are careful.

[mbd]

Mike, of course I did the work myself, didn't win the Mega Millions!

Used several rolls of a grey butyl tape, purchased at an rv-trailer suppy, to seal the windows and frames. Certainly an easier method than using a tubed sealant.

Ben, I just meant "on your own", i.e without a helping hand. Not sure how you could do it otherwise! My sailing buddy volunteered to help me - he's cheap, I just pay him with beer and a sail... :) And yes, the tubed sealant is quite messy! I'm looking forward to using butyl tape this time around on my stanchions.

[Ariel 109]

The nice thing about using the butyl tape is that you don't need to find a local layabout to help. Stick the window in the frame, stick the frame on the cabin and run down below and gently start attaching the inside frames.

[Rico]

Got this new depth sounder, trying to figure out how to wire it up.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/425d0795.jpg

Hey Ben, You obviously do not know what you have there! - That depth sounder is not hard wired to the boat. It is one of those new-fangled battery powered ones. A fresh set of AA's will get it working right away! I can tell by the digital-display ribbon markers!
(You have the fancy model - mine just feels for the bottom - it has no markings!)

AND Very Nice work on the windows. They provide not a clue as to the skillful work that went into them... (A sign of good workmanship!)

[Lucky Dawg]

Hey Ben,
Any particular brand or size of butyl tape you used? My sealing job last summer was a miserable failure. We bashed around in fall waves on Lake Michigan - water squirting through the window frames - to the extent that Sadie and Lucas were certain we were sinking. I have some work to do. So if I remove it all, what do I do with the silicone remnants? I have a silicone removing wash that I used pre-paint, but I (MOST ASSUREDLY dont want to screw up my paint job!!) Details on the tape would be great!

Speaking of: Hey Bill! What is the story on the hatch gaskets?

[Bill]

Hey Bill! What is the story on the hatch gaskets? Getting finances "organized" since loss of our treasurer. Hoping to have an answer soon.

[mbd]

Any particular brand or size of butyl tape you used?
I got mine from MaineSail here: Need Butyl Tape ?? (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/butyl_tape)

And all sorts of EXCELLENT "How To" articles, including the use of butyl tape here: Compass Marine "How To" Articles (http://www.pbase.com/mainecruising/boat_projects)

[Ariel 109]

Sorry Kyle for the delay in replying as to what kind of butyl tape I used. The rolls I bought at the RV /Trailer supply had no labeling. The rolls were about twenty feet long an inch wide and about an eighth inch thick. I slit the width down to a half inch before I stuck the tape on the frames. I'm happy to report no leaks!

The guy selling the butyl tape that Mike pointed out seems like a decent deal. I had to really run around to find that tape here is New York City. Although Michigan has got to have plenty of places to buy the stuff between all the Winnebagos, Air Streams and trailer parks I remember seeing growing up there!

Ben

The mighty Dreadnought:

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/e14aaf40.jpg

[paulsproesser]

Ben, hope all is well ? busy here , great pic into the bow , wish i had a roller furler and i'm still lacking the bow rail , its quite an adventure somtimes to get the jib up . I like the brass as you do , on the boat hrdwre that is and I've stripped the chrome off and its beutiful for now and i havent been following the site to closely but what happened to the treasurer? Is everyone ok?

[Ariel 109]

First sail of the season!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/bb67a6d2.jpg

[paulsproesser]

First sail of the season!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/bb67a6d2.jpg
I'm jealous , I can't wait to get back in the water I've been been up on stands in the yard now over a month and there's been some really great 10-25 knot wind days while I've been working , but I'm addressing all the necessary issues that even had me worried and found out alot of other interesting things but anyway, I was wondering if you had any luck trying to remake your hull ID plate from the cast you made from mine? looking at it after being in the kiln when you sent it back it looks more like copper than bronze you might try one with copper.

[Ariel 109]

Here's the new main sheet and traveler I got from Chance, now installed on Ariel-109. Used it for the first time sailing last night, very nice. More control lines to fiddle with while sailing and keep the mind occupied. Ariel-109's main sail shape is much improved. Chance did a wonderful job on the teak board the traveler rail mounts on, fit the deck curve perfect.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/d19c8ff8.jpg

Some shots from the sail last night.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/82559915.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/44c9745e.jpg

For Paul, a shot of my solar / wind powered IKEA hanging outdoor "anchor" light. Seems to be holding up quite well.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/26b1b53f.jpg


Ben

[Ariel 109]

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/5ce17395.jpg

Started using this technique with my new traveler on the Ariel. Really works great when I get overpowered by a gust and the boat starts rounding up.

"Permanently reduce the force aloft by letting out further on the mainsail and tightening up on the traveler. The trick here is to bring the mainsail bottom back in again using the traveler. Yes, bring the traveler to windward up past the center point. Most sailors are reluctant to do this because they’ve been taught that it detaches the wind on the leeward side. But not when you’ve let out the mainsheet. In effect, by letting out on the mainsheet, you’ve allowed the boom to rise up and the leech of the sail to slacken. This creates the desired twist at the top and allows the top of the sail to fly according to its apparent direction. At the same time, the bottom of the sail can fly according to its apparent direction."

http://www.nauticedsailingschool.com/trimming-the-mainsail-and-preventing-rounding-up

[mbd]

Great tip and great pic Ben! Thanks for posting it. Kind of counter intuitive.

[Ariel 109]

Remember that old saying about sailing being 10% boredom, 80% pleasure and 10% sheer terror? Well this past June I had a moment of terror bordering on stupidity. Sailing Ariel-109 back from a pleasant single hand afternoon sail I was spun by a swirling strong wind shift into a nearby moored sailboat. It happened in an instant, twist, turn and bang. Nose in hard with the Ariel, then bounced off, back on tack like it never happen. I felt awful. What's more my Ariel was totally undamaged. After mooring Noesis I went to find out the owner's contacts at the boat club the sailboat belonged to. Was informed by the owner of the club I was in luck. I had hit the boat of a nice person by the name of Max.

Here's some before and after pictures of Max's boat. I still need to work on the painting. But I have the teak toe rail repaired and fiber-glass epoxy work finished.

Ben


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/D27217DF-1AE6-4838-BA1D-FC83EBB4337D-10476-00000744A269FC24.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/7C4FE794-ADB7-49E1-8983-61F53F6F7783-10476-000007449F19D8F0.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/69CD65A6-41C7-4A23-9F7B-413C45B702AB-10476-000007449A53E1B0.jpg

[mbd]

Interesting boat you unfortunately became too well acquainted with - what is it? (And more pics please!) And BTW - Max is lucky that he was bumped by such a conscientious and competent Captain! (Careful though, he may ask you to replace his whole toe rail!) :)

[Ariel 109]

Hi Mike,

The boat is a 1967 Columbia 29 Mark II designed by Sparkman and Stephens. She's sports a modified full keel with an attached rudder, more free-board and less overhang than our Alberg designed boats. Nice well made boat. I'll take more pics!

Ben

[ebb]

Hey Ben, What Mike sez, right on.
How's the rail attached so close to the edge as it is? Lags straight down?

[Ariel 109]

Thanks Ebb,

The toerail is formed like a corner bead and held down by verticle carriage bolts spaced every 18". It hides the hull to deck seam underneath. The toerail was easy to make, just cuts on the table saw. Getting the rail to follow the deck's curve required me to install a gusset across the forward joint. I didn't think the scarf was strong enough to hold.

Ben

[ebb]

Ben,
you know me aye like to beelabour things.....
So o o, the intriguing gusset...
Did you dap in a metal plate
or double uo on the wood?

Strong forces at work on the new piece.
But if you long spliced the rail
there should have been opportunity to drive in metal pins
- spiked the joint - from the top. And maybe hide them with plugs?

Whatz the secret?
Probably have a similar 'chance encounter' one day myself !:D

[Ariel 109]

Ebb,

The teak toe-rail is like a corner-bead on Max's boat with each extension of the profile about 3/4" thick. After making a scarf joint between the new and old rail there really wasn't much surface to bond together. I didn't even think that installing some screws would help much, there's a lot of stress on the wood at this point as the toe-rail curves up to the bow. I wanted the rail to have a nice continuous curve throughout the transition of the joint. So I chiseled a 3/8 " deep rebate on both side of the scarf joint on the outer side of the toe rail and bonded in a piece of teak. It worked great, both pieces run smoothly together. I will take some pictures, promise.

Now I'm off to muddling my way through the painting process.

Ben

[Ariel 109]

Old Ariel 109 Noesis survived Sandy, riding it out on her somewhat protected mooring on the leeward side of City Island. I had a nice sail on Saturday, before the storm arrived, afterward removed the sails for safekeeping. Glad she's still around, looking forward to some nice late fall sailing.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/3BACA4BF-12D5-4FF1-9836-540D72106EBC-5392-000007A36A140F92.jpg

[mbd]

Great news Ben - glad you weathered the storm OK too!

[Ariel 109]

Finally was able to fly 109's vintage Ratsey spinnaker, first time this season. A nice long run across Eastchester Bay back to the mooring on this mild fall day.


http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/0EC3BE54-E431-4BCC-8737-66270CB25D1B-13864-00000EDB72C075F4.jpg

[Ariel 109]

A few little projects on Noesis.

This weekend I attached a track on the boom to allow me to set up a slab reefing system, more to do. Then I went for a short winter sail, global warming has some positives. Just me and a few big barges out on the Sound.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/D302881D-7890-4473-9364-DE520F9AAD64-380-0000012587FB4DDA.jpg

Mounted the Sea Swing stove in the cabin. A difficult choice on the location, above the sink, but there's really no where else. The nice thing about this stove is it opens up the Ariel's galley counter top. You can also quickly remove the stove and store it somewhere else.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/724F9520-B74A-4477-AFD5-2D23EEDD487A-380-000001258C13E241.jpg

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/E391E229-E226-4F85-927F-66C83149473C-380-000001259163ACF8.jpg

My companions while working this weekend. At times it felt like I was in a Hitchcock movie.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/43E02024-37D9-45C8-BAA9-45599432BF62-380-0000003C35D80DA5.jpg

[Commander 147]

Hey Ben

That looks like the exact setup on the boom I have planned for Destiny. I plan to have two large reef locations on her main and will put two cheek blocks like you are using on the same track.

These little boats do force us to put things where they are not the most convenient some times. But now you can have a cup of hot cocoa on those cold winter days. :-)

[Ariel 109]

Jerry Seinfeld drives Ricky Gervais in an old British sports car up to have coffee on City Island.

You can skip ahead to 6:20 and see a nice shot of the venerable Ariel 109 on her mooring.


http://comediansincarsgettingcoffee.com/ricky-gervais-mad-man-in-a-death-machine/

[mbd]

That is so cool Ben! How did you even find out Noesis was in the video? When they sent you a royalty check for featuring your beautiful Ariel?

[Tony G]

In like Flynn!

[ebb]

Don't you wish these entertainers were into sailing collectable boats?:o

[Commander 147]

No..... then we would not be able to afford them ;-)

[Ariel 109]

I've been able to get Ariel 109 out sailing on Eastchester Bay nearly every weekend since the New Year. My friend Dan and I went sailing yesterday on his birthday. It was his first time sailing and he did great. We had a nice run with the spinnaker!


http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q81SRbja0Dw&list=UUcNpdZiq-gWaIriebNWnu1g&index=1

[Ariel 109]

Being a fan of the the classic plastic laminates Pearson used on the Ariel I was quite pleased to run into these impregnated linen plastic trays at a trendy housewares store in my Brooklyn neighborhood. Linen patterns in plastics are back, ha! Come out sailing with me one day and I'll serve you cheese and crackers on these.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/ACAE0DA5-7243-4806-A151-7C2FCC7AA78C-8080-00000894FE208488_zps563f1ffd.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/ACAE0DA5-7243-4806-A151-7C2FCC7AA78C-8080-00000894FE208488_zps563f1ffd.jpg.html)

Found this spirit bottle, used to pour alcohol to pre-heat kerosene stoves at Trader Johns, my favorite store on City Island. This little item is pretty ingenious with a false bottom that measures out the right amount of alcohol needed to warm up a burner on a kerosene Primus type stove. Here's a link to how it works.

http://www.spiritburner.com/fusion/showpost.php?post/253973/

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/C88F4CBF-8770-4201-B0BF-506A45478F95-17599-000013258AD4402C_zps8931bac5.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/C88F4CBF-8770-4201-B0BF-506A45478F95-17599-000013258AD4402C_zps8931bac5.jpg.html)

[paulsproesser]

Hi Ben, Hope you've been well . Sorry to see the mishap collision but you did a nice repair , maybe word will get out and you can make some extra pocket change around there. Was it hard to match the paint? And thank god your bow was'nt down lower you couldve sunk that boat ,got lucky you did. I was anchored fishing and a megayacht 100+ footer snuck up behind me last summer and scared the hell outta me I looked behind me and there hung a huge anchor 40 feet high off the bow 40 feet from me he never sounded a horn or anything but he could've run me over and not even noticed.

[Ariel 109]

Hi Paul,

Funny that you brought up the collision I had with Max's boat. Drove with Max this morning up to City Island. We haven't painted Max's boat yet, the damaged area is still in primer. The boat wintered in the water and the ideal is to pull in late June and finish the paint and a myriad of other projects, I'll post pictures! Max broke his foot recently, so he's moving kinda slow and spending a summer ashore working on his boat seems like good medicine.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/E6ECF4B4-489F-4BC7-83D8-C7ECABA05D89-124-0000003C92A01D57_zpse79d9027.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/E6ECF4B4-489F-4BC7-83D8-C7ECABA05D89-124-0000003C92A01D57_zpse79d9027.jpg.html)

[Ariel 109]

Was given a new old mainsail for Ariel 109, this one even has insignia, strong and well shaped, thanks Bobby! What happened to that weather helm? I now realize how blown out my old main was. Also had a new UV cover sewn onto the genoa, badly needed. These twenty(?) year old Herb Hild sails were built on City Island, back in the day when local sail lofts could still economically build sails in house.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/0E38F9A4-DED4-434F-A76B-444F06E20301-6118-000006074702AD1D_zps3a802fc0.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/0E38F9A4-DED4-434F-A76B-444F06E20301-6118-000006074702AD1D_zps3a802fc0.jpg.html)

[carl291]

Ben, I sent you a PM Carl / Ben your PM box is full. If you won't be able to follow through this Monday, Please ship items to me COD, FedEx is my preferred carrier. Thanks Carl

[Ariel 109]

Pair of bronze small ports from an early production Pearson Triton, I believe. Slightly smaller than the more sculpted aluminum ports currently on 109. Another winter project, replacing the corroded aluminum small ports on Ariel 109 with these robust bronzes. I got them at my friend Trader John on City Island, a bargain. He's got at least another pair for anyone interested.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/b04fd6c0-f979-4434-b798-41966a733cac_zps09242333.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/b04fd6c0-f979-4434-b798-41966a733cac_zps09242333.jpg.html)

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/BEEFFD49-2504-4A7D-9EB2-412B562B7F88-1425-0000023F87E6ED95_zpse15cfe03.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/BEEFFD49-2504-4A7D-9EB2-412B562B7F88-1425-0000023F87E6ED95_zpse15cfe03.jpg.html)

[Ariel 109]

Found a picture of an early Triton with these smaller portlights. They don't look too bad, a little bead-blasting and some new plexiglass.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/3-1_zps030d420a.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/3-1_zps030d420a.jpg.html)

[ebb]

Ben, for the record.
I have two of those aluminum opening ports that look pretty good powder coated.
But recently getting them ready to put in, discovered that the gasket ring that creates a
channel for the gasket using #4 3/16" FHMS could not be screwed in because most of
the blind taps in the frame are corroded - no threads left.

That led me to call Historical Arts who evidently still have Rostand pattern bronze
opening ports for sale. $585 a copy! Considering there are four castings per copy, plus
the machining, tumbling, fitting and number of other parts, I'm pretty sure Historical
Arts isn't making much profit. I'm pretty sure there aren't many takers either
- who can afford them? From the pictures they emailed, they do look gorgeous.
Whether they are an exact 'dropin' fit to the hole already in the Areil needs confirmation.

First Sunday every month I meet with the SFBayArea Alberg Fleet at the Oakland Grill
in the produce district. Most of the guys and gals have Tritons. They have six of
these antique Rostand ports, or aluminum ones, with broken parts and corrosion.
Chief 'Officer' of the breakfast is Rob Heggen, who is embarked upon casting new
ports of his own. Locally cast with his own patterns based on the original Rostand.

So far as I know these little opening ports are the same on Tritons and Ariels - and
no doubt on other early Pearson/Albergs. Rob makes his living working on small
boats in this area. He is an innovator & problem solver and I can imagine that when
available his rendition will be completely competant. How much? I don't know.

In the meantime, at Rob's suggestion. I'm drilling new holes in the aluminum gasket
ring, and will attempt to bottom tap tiny new holes in the frame! Patch with LabMetal.

So, I patched most of the corrosion in the little ports and took them to the powdercoaters.
After sitting in a box for years - and me thinking how smart it was - find not only the
machined screw holes have poultice in them and are threadless.....but then discovered
the pretty powder coating on the finishing ring that clamps and screws the port
together in the cabin side..... no longer slips over the spigot.:eek:
The coating on the ring and the spigot together add enough thickness so the ring
don't slip over the spigot no mo.
No, it can't be sanded....because if you do it'll break thru to the encaspulated aluminum
.....and then: BAM worst case corrosion. Because aluminum should not be capsulated.
Also have a couple places where the polyester coating wrapping corners has chipped off!

So this is a caution.....I think repairing aluminum ports is only a temporary fix.
If nothing else it's a lot of labor and futzing. Given the tiny screws,and the crankiness of
aluminum it's a lousey material for the job.

The Ariel mast sheave and original blocks are Tufnol*, a resiliant high pressure cotton fabric
phenolic laminate impervious to saltwater, weather, corrosion, UV. After 50 years.... still
ageless. Today, the high pressure phenolic laminate is available in small quantities
and not too horrorbly expensive for a lightweight and nearly indestructable thermoset.
Original blocks that came with A338 still look and work great.
Recommended lubricant for the sheaves is sea water! No roller bearings.
A338's 6" mast sheave with wire groove could almost have been new when it was removed
....while the aluminum around it was literally disintergrating on all sides.
The stuff is easily milled with carbide into innumerable shapes and doesn't look too bad either:
the phenolics are a nice dark tan/brown. (*McMasterCarr Garolite LE and CE)

Mean to say: Do you think you can translate this material into a Rostand inspired opening port?

Before making patterns to give to the foundry for casting in bronze, why not first create
a working model with Garolite? It wouldn't be an exact copy of the metal versions, but close.
Have a mental image of the opening port in phenoiic! (Sorry for the length of this....!)

[Ariel 109]

Acquired this asymmetrical spinnaker from Trader John on City Island. I believe it comes off a Columbia T26, which has a very similar forward head-sail plan to the Ariel. It's in very nice condition, fits and moves the boat nicely as you can see in the picture from yesterday's sail. I see a small bowsprit in my future.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/B9BEAF1E-7BCD-4EE1-B3CE-4147DA13BCF1-2619-000003694B9C8431_zps466a4634.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/B9BEAF1E-7BCD-4EE1-B3CE-4147DA13BCF1-2619-000003694B9C8431_zps466a4634.jpg.html)

[Ariel 109]

Bargains are out there. Found these bronze small ports on EBay, minimal corrosion, no cracks and nice glass. I've got a nice set of screens already on 109.

Hope to clean up the two early Triton bronze ports I was going to install and sell them to someone here on the forum at a good price.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/DA1949AF-4D5E-4F67-811D-045FEE5B0C71_zpsrxpwxyuy.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/DA1949AF-4D5E-4F67-811D-045FEE5B0C71_zpsrxpwxyuy.jpg.html)

[ebb]

W O W
Some people sure are LUCKY!

Have a great New Year 2014!

[Ariel 109]

Happy New Year Ebb and everyone! Wanting also to wish Ariel 109 Noesis a happy 50th birthday! Thanks for providing hours of adventure, excitement and beauty to all who have sailed her through the years!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/D37EA0FC-DA06-443E-99CA-891E1818983C-1900-000001F8A13099EC_zps4b49aeb2.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/D37EA0FC-DA06-443E-99CA-891E1818983C-1900-000001F8A13099EC_zps4b49aeb2.jpg.html)

[Ariel 109]

A cold rainy Saturday at City Island. Installed the small bronze ports in 109's "forward stateroom". Who wants a Cape Dory 25d after you've got an Ariel with bronze framed portholes and deadlights!

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/4A775FC7-E458-4EF8-9DA0-04DAEA656A02_zpscsdmdr1w.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/4A775FC7-E458-4EF8-9DA0-04DAEA656A02_zpscsdmdr1w.jpg.html)

[Ariel 109]

Revisited the first project I did for Ariel 109. Shorted, carved and installed a height adjustment screw on the purple heart tiller I made four years ago. All this is to allow me to use a Simrod TP-10 auto-tiller on 109.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/4B320A55-3DAF-4725-8B60-F744FC0F2F17_zpsnwu62ui2.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/4B320A55-3DAF-4725-8B60-F744FC0F2F17_zpsnwu62ui2.jpg.html)

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/7249D526-5F10-42B5-A0F7-31F5FF770A95_zpsubhif6s4.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/7249D526-5F10-42B5-A0F7-31F5FF770A95_zpsubhif6s4.jpg.html)

[Ariel 109]

Nature's redesign of the Ariel's topsides.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/B03D073A-C891-42B7-B6AF-EBD2855EFA2D_zpsgihkvqjg.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/B03D073A-C891-42B7-B6AF-EBD2855EFA2D_zpsgihkvqjg.jpg.html)

[Commander227]

Sleek! She looks like she's doin 6 knots just sitting there.

[Ariel 109]

Here's the "re-sculpted" tiller back in the Ariel. The bolt I added on the end to use as an adjustable stop against the rudder stock works nice. Still need to drill a hole in the starboard bench for the auto-tiller mount and epoxy in it's bronze bushing, some warmer day.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/400C6510-ACA7-484C-A8AB-847A51F2E3C0_zps0cfm6w5h.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/400C6510-ACA7-484C-A8AB-847A51F2E3C0_zps0cfm6w5h.jpg.html)

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/45223B53-DD88-4EE2-92E2-6ECBB7FD3F2B_zpsbgps2dqg.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/45223B53-DD88-4EE2-92E2-6ECBB7FD3F2B_zpsbgps2dqg.jpg.html)

[Ariel 109]

Ariel 109 made it into the New Yorker's online edition! The pictures are from a trip from City Island down to New York Harbor made about two weeks ago. The photographer Ben Zucker did a beautiful job! It was my first time through Hells Gate and into New York Harbor. Nice to be out sailing again.

http://www.newyorker.com/sandbox/portfolio/sailing-new-york-city/

[mbd]

Niiiiice! And some great pics! Another money shot of Noesis sailing towards the Staue of Liberty. Did he take the the bird's eye view from a neighbor's mast?

[Ariel 109]

Yes, the photographer Ben Zucker climbed my friend Hans' Coronado 41's mast to take that shot.

[CapnK]

BEAUTIFUL! And Inspiring, too... Makes me even more impatient to feel the press of sail heel Katie over on her ends and take off down the Bay... :)

[Ariel 109]

Sailing with the Simrad TP-10 auto-tiller, second hand, taken from the wooden Rhodes 24, payment for looking after her, ha! Nice to be able to leave the tiller and adjust leach lines and jib-track cars while sailing by myself. A bit of a toy, with limitations, but worth having I believe.

http://i165.photobucket.com/albums/u72/Parlordoor/AA141C55-0319-45A2-B872-2E38C61EE6BB_zpsuuegaxmo.jpg (http://s165.photobucket.com/user/Parlordoor/media/AA141C55-0319-45A2-B872-2E38C61EE6BB_zpsuuegaxmo.jpg.html)

[paulsproesser]

Ben, do you have to program your course with that or does it have a wind transducer?

[Ariel 109]

The TP-10 is a very simple auto-tiller, the most basic of Simrad's line. There's no wind transducer. You just steer your course, press a button and the the auto-tiller will try and keep a heading in the current direction. Shifty winds, wakes and waves can play havoc with the auto-tiller's function. The TP-10 works best in moderate weather condition where the chance of getting the rudder over-powered is minimal. Sailing in the right conditions it's pretty nice to have aboard, frustrating in very light and heavy winds.

I regret to inform the forum that I have sold Ariel 109. I will be sending the new owner's information to Bill soon. Hopefully he will continue Ariel 109's thread on this forum. I will truly miss reading and writing posts here. I learned so much about sailing from the good information and advice posted here, thanks to all!

Ben

[paulsproesser]

:( Ben hope everything is well with you . hate to see your skills leave this forum and can't believe you sold Noesis. Are you getting a new boat? Thanks for helping me though, I think about your help every time I look at that plate I'm truly greatful. Would you be willing to make me one of those purple heart tillers. And if so how much?

[ebb]

So Sorry, Ben!
Hope things are OK. Take care.
It's been grand.
Wonderful to follow along with you and 109:(

[c_amos]

Look forward to hearing back from the new owner, Fairwinds friend!

[Ariel 109]

Thanks, you guys. Everything's OK, I just have too much on my plate with the S-Boat project, racing on sailboats and paying bills to keep giving the Ariel the attention it deserves. I'm sure I'll regret selling it in the future, it is the prefect sailboat!