Photo gallery of ariel #74 restoration

[josh#74]

Here it goes. I am going to start from the begining. Here she is.
Untouched by anyone for who knows how long.

[josh#74]

last week I had a small window to cut the outer skin off. Things went as I had planned. I followed the standard procedure of using a skil saw to follow the nonskid pattern. I had commited to installing new decks all the way around. which caused some headache because there were some git rot treated parts of the deck that were quite difficult to remove.

[josh#74]

With lots of help from my cousin have stripped the interior, removed most of the hardware and wood from the boat. with the decks removed back to the winches we started to recore process. The lay-up schedule is as follows from the inner skin moving up. I first put one layer of 8 oz. cloth over the inner skin to cover any holes that i created taking the balsa out. Some parts of the core was still bonded pretty good to the skin thanks to the liberal use of git rot. I didn't manage to do anything to bad except on the starbord fore deck. I kind ripped 1ft hole in the skin. You would think I would have learned to have some patients in the last 32 years.
Following the 8oz. layer went one layer of woven roving, then another 8oz. layer. I then put baltek mat on the entire surface to add some stiffness, with 1/4'' plywood over that. I quickly decided against more than one layer of baltek mat because it takes alot of resin to wet out properly. about a gallon for one layer. Ouch! I have only used it on small projects before. I did not realize how much resin it would use on the deck.
Next I mixed up a couple of batches with chopped glass filler and filled the edges all the way around the deck with the thickened epoxy.
Once that cured, my cousin took an angle grinder and ground down the old glass around the cabin top and the toe rail to about an 1/8'' thick.
then we put kevlar strips all on all the way around the toe rail and the cabin top where they met the deck. followed by a layer of chopped mat that I wanted to use as a leveling course. I did not realize that chopped mat and epoxy were not compatable until I was done. Evidently the binder that holds the mat together needs a solvent to dissolve it. Oops! Luckily it sands pretty easy. After that was done we put down another layer of 8oz. and one more layer of kevlar around the inner and outer deck perimeter. followed by a 3ft long kevlar patch at the chainplate location. I thought I had more pics loaded. I will take some tomorrow of the kevlar at the chainplates. It looks pretty sweet. and I think it would take a pretty major impact if the boom hitting the water before any damage would take place on the deck.

[josh#74]

here is the interior with plywood stringers glassed in place. And the rudder shoe. We cut out the water tank. It was just a pile of rust. the mast base is pretty much junk. The bulkhead under the mast base does not have any rot, but the core material is compressed. Any thoughts on the green corrosion at the rudder shoe? Also, what is the block at the base of the mast for? more pics comoing soon.

[mbd]

Also, what is the block at the base of the mast for?
My Ariel had that too. No idea. Boom vang? Turning block for lines? 2 screws in the deck doesn't seem strong enough for either...

[Bill]

And the rudder shoe. Any thoughts on the green corrosion at the rudder shoe? .

Here's some rudder shoe discussion, but there is more. Just search on "rudder shoe."

http://www.pearsonariel.org/discussion/showthread.php?t=583

[ebb]

Josh, looks like a great job!

Hope you got out of that mat binder pickle.

There is a mat-like product called 'x-mat' that I have always assumed was generally available, but has not proven to be.
Called Knytex - it is an epoxy friendly mat loosely sewn* to a thin double bias woven roving. I'm sure it'll work with poly and vinyl esters.
It's available from TapPlastics. 19oz and 24oz - the stuff gobbles up laminating epoxy.
It has equal strength rating to woven fabric and is very useful because it likes to be persuaded into corners and is also great for tabbing.
If you don't mess with it while fitting, it is stiff enough to place into position exactly. Same way wetting out, if you don't mess with it using a brush, you can get good wet-out with a green squeegy.
It's stiff when dry and gets conformable when wet. I usual cut darts on one side of a long corner tabbing just to get it to fit better and easier to wet-out.

I've used very little woven fabric in Little Gull's refit, using x-mat for everything.

Have always wished for a lighter version, less thirsty,
__________________________________________________ _____________________________________________
*NOT "STITCH BONDED" as it says in the TapPlastics description.

[josh#74]

I am going to get some of the kyntex. 13$ a yard. here. I got sucked into the 2$ a yard trap of the chopped mat. We ground all of the non-skid off of the cabin and stern decks. WOW! that was not fun. At all!
here is a pic of the kevlar deck patch. it looks bad because there is dust from the non-skid everywhere. more pics of the cabin and stern decks. What is the blue? factory non-skid/?

Another problem is all of the wood is beyond repair. I purchased a large amount of reclaimed deck boards made from mahogany, that I plan on using for the interior and maybe for the companionway boards.

I purchased new teak hand rails last month. I had planned on just rubbing teak oil on them. If I decided to varnish them. Would the teak oil cause a problem with the varnish?

[kendall]

I've never had problems going over oiled wood with varnish, but have heard of people who did, think alot depends on how soon you varnish after oiling, and the quality of the oil and varnish.

Since they are new, My advice is to finish them with what you plan to use for the long term, no potential hassles at all that way. Ken.

Edit: Recored one of the soft spots on my side deck, (three to go) and just noticed that my coring ended farther ahead than shown here, mine extends to just barely into the cockpit area where it becomes solid glass. Any one know if it's 'normal' for coring to vary that much? Is it a Pearson thing, Kind of like no two Tritons or Ariels are the same?

Ken

Second edit:

Mine also has the bails near the mast, along with three others on the doghouse. I have that webbing strap and stainless plate style vang deal with a clip on the end that fits the bails, but the bails themsalves don't seem strong enough to use as mounts for it. They are located in the right spotsfor it's use though.

[bill@ariel231]

Josh:

question - "Also, what is the block at the base of the mast for?"

i've generally seen this used to secure the downhaul or cunningham. This was a source for water entry into the coach roof on A-231. i elected to remove the fitting and move the downhaul to the base of the mast.

P.S. while you are this far in, take a look at the core under the mast step. after 40 years of service, there is a good chance it needs attention or replacement with solid 'glass.

cheers,
bill@ariel231

[ebb]

You guys is correct I think. Just had a ride on a Triton that still had an adjustable gooseneck AND a cunningham rigged. It's main purpose seems to be to tighten up the luff - because you didn't get it tight enough with the halyard. I'm sure there is more finesse to this then that.

Little Gull, which I bought not knowing, came with a fixed gooseneck on what looked the original boom. Had already been modernized - if that is the term. If a boomvang is fitted you can't have an adjustable gooseneck.

On 338 there was a fairlead type eye on the deck between the mast pad and the dog-house rise. A decommissioning photo shows it to be an insignificant piece of gear - and if I remember, it had no back-up plate inside. Didn't look serious at all.

What is the skinny on this?
__________________________________________________ ___________________________________________
Just discovered that a Cunningham is a grommet in the luff of a mainsail with a FIXED GOOSENECK used to tighten the luff.
Would assume you wouldn't need to go to the deck to tighten the luff but just to the fixed boom or gooseneck.
A sliding gooseneck is original to a roller-reefed main so that the end of the boom could be adjusted up when reefed. So said on a Brion Toss page, But I may have misinterpreted. Again.

Did Ariel's and Commander's have roller reef booms originally? Maybe an option?

But a tight luff can be achieved with a boom downhaul to a block at the foot of the mast - no cunningham - if the boom has a sliding gooseneck. Kind of a which came first: the goose or the egg???
:confused:

[Bill]

Did Ariel's and Commander's have roller reef booms originally? Maybe an option?

Short answer, yes. I believe the gear is called a "down haul" when the goose neck is not fixed.

[bikenewport]

Wow !! it looks like you are doing a great job on #74 . Is this the Ariel that was on craigs list in corvallis ?? I have # 367 in Newport Oregon ,if you want to see an Ariel floating just let me know and we could go sailing.:).......Elliott

[josh#74]

I can't believe I did not realize that was a down haul. I was just looking at the goosneck on sunday, noticing that it is on a rail. JUST LIKE MY LAST BOAT! DUH!

And yes bill, You are right. The core is a combination of compressed and rotten. Maybe because of the latter. I might as well add a tabernacle.

Anyway, this is the ariel that was in corvalis, I would really like to go for a sail. I'll send you a pm.

[josh#74]

The Weather has has become quite wet here lately. I have been decided to cut the mahogany slats for the side of the hull. And re-finish as much of the old wood as I could salvage. I previously thought that most of the wood was to old and rotten to save. But once I checked my bank account I realized the wood was actually just fine. and just need to be sanded. In some places it need a lot of sanding. My coamings are probably a 1/4" thinner than they were when I took them off the boat.
But sand paper is so much cheaper than teak I just don't see any reason to replace them right now. here are a couple more pics. I put about 5 heavy coats of teak oil on the mahogany slats hoping it would build up enough so that I didn't have to varnish all of the slats but I don't it is going to work out. Luckily I don't mind the whole varnish thing. though it will probably be a pain when it is time to re varnish them. Oh ya. I just picked up a force ten cozy cabin heater for 75 bucks. I think it will do a fine job in such a small space and our moderate climate here.

[ebb]

Awl Right! Looking GOOD!
Most of that amber candy is recognizable....
What's that trim piece with the bip in its side?

[Tony G]

Shaw-wing!!
It's looking like a great start.
I'll second Ebb's question:confused:

[josh#74]

I think the piece you are looking screws to to top hatch board. or the other one you might be looking at is the companionway bottom board. which is the one with the most damage of any of them and probably the hardest to recreate.

[bill@ariel231]

you are off to a great start! A-74 is in good hands.

i am curious where this piece fits in the puzzle? is it a fancy border for the interior of the companionway??

[ebb]

yeah...
that's the one with the bip
tho some people call it a bop...

[Tony G]

I'll put five on it attaches to the aft end of the sliding hatch. Decorative and utilitarian at the same time. May even get dressed up with the enamel and bronze mfg. plaque.

[josh#74]

We have been getting an awful lot of snow lately. The most in 40 years. So I did a little bargain hunting. And I bought a polish wheel. and put up the last of the wood that I have cut. And yes the trim piece goes on to the top hatch board.

[josh#74]

here is the unfinished bulkhead and unfinished winch bases. I have a guy that says he can put a clear coat on the the bronze pieces for me. I think it is some sort of ceramic coating. I will get more info soon. this might be of great intrest to alot of people. I think that I will put the gimballed lamp ont the side of the hanging locker to save space.

[bill@ariel231]

mmmmmmm... very shiny! where will the sink land?

[Tony G]

Whoa! Think I just fell in love...again. There is something to be said about winter, it's just that what I have to say shouldn't be printed here.;)

A double basin on an Ariel? Opulence? I guess if one actually uses the v-berth for sleeping why not. You just can't go wrong as long as it fits your needs afloat.

And the shiney is shiney indeed. And those cabin heaters just seem to strike a chord in me. Something viceral that feels right, feels homey. Never have been around one but they seem second nature. Sometimes I wish I lived somewhere cold so I could have one...

Keep up the excellent work! It's a pleasure to see that you fully comprehend the photo aspect of boat work/ownership.

[ebb]

AWL RIGHT! huge improvement in the look of the furniture and bulkhead!

What is it? Could be REDWOOD?
Or maybe IPE or MASSARANDUBA?

[josh#74]

The wood that I am using is all reclaimed mohagany decking that came in 1by6by10 boards. I think the color difference is from bleaching of exposed areas. I cut the boards into 1.75" widths then cut those in half. to make them both 1/2" thick. So half of the wood has sun and the other half, well you know where it was.
As far as the galley goes. I would like rebuild the icebox out of plywood and fiberglass. Using the ice box to integrate stairs offset to the starboard side. I know that no one likes their icebox but I still want one.
By crowding the stairs I can put the sink with it's edge at about the centerline of the boat. I had expected to use a single sink and single gimballed stove. But I found the sink at a used chandlery for 20 dollars and had to get it. If it wont fit I can just cut int in half. Next to the sink on the port side I will mount the two burner stove aligned with the boat so that I can build a gimballed mount to keep everything where it should be.
I went shopping for a stove. And there it was. Not a stove, but a Coleman full size coffee maker. Powered not by electricity, It sits on top a propane burner! Whew! Man do I love coffee. This baby is so sweet. This is going to take a huge load off my electrical system. Now I will only need power for the navigation lights, electric bilge pump, and vhf radio. I know I could use a press but this seems so perfect. So if I am going to keep a coffee pot one of the burners I should have a two burner stove. And that is what I bought. I will post some more pics of the galley gear and a layout drawing.
With my current set up I will be losing some seating area on the port side but only about 1 foot. But wait, there's more! the stove area will have an insert so that it can double as a totally sweet chart/laptop table.

[josh#74]

So my sweet stainless steel sink that I planned on putting in the ariel looked a lot bigger once the snow melted off of the tarp and I was able to get inside. It would fit, But It would kill any counter space which is worse than having a little sink. Oh well I think I can cut that baby on my table saw if I can get an abrasive blade off of my cut-off saw to fit.:eek:
It might work. Anyway I got a little side tracked from my wood cutting and started looking closer at the through hull fittings. I assumed they were bronze. But when I looked close I could see white spots where the antifouling was gone. Maybe someone put marelon through hulls in? Nope! The flanges where breaking off and what I was seeing was the bedding compound. The next priorty is to replace the three through hulls for the cockpit and side deck scuppers and install my new bronze cockpit scuppers. before it rains to much more! If that is possible? Sometimes oregon can be a real downer. More pics to come.

[josh#74]

Much has been going on this last year. As everyone here knows. It takes a lot more time and money than one usually expects. It has been very nice having the boat at my house. It makes it very easy to work on the boat whenever there is free time. Of course, with a 4yr old there is not much free time for boat work.

Here are some pictures of the progress. These are of the unfinished cabin. The galley is made from 3/4 oak plywood. It is not marine grade and have soaked it with thinned varnish to help protect it. This being the first version I don't think it will last long enough to rot. I might change to a full galley like most boats of our size designed for extended weekend living. Looking below you can see that I have started painting the plywood with white glidden polyeurathane. 20$ a gallon and as bulletproof as any. The oak simply looked out of place with the teak and mohagany. You can see the handrails bolted through the cabin. The fixed portlights are not finished but close. They are made from 1/2" plexiglass. They required considerable fairing on the inside of the cabin. Which is still not finished. Getting closer though. If you are wondering what is on the windows. It is mold release to keep epoxy from bonding to the plexi. It is not suppose to bond to it anyway, but I wasn't going to chance it. I still have to take a paint brush and get all of the corners, nooks and cranny's of the cabin. I have been using the extra paint each time I add a coat on the deck. There is also a new unfinished Icebox. No pics yet, but soon.

[josh#74]

I have been fortunate enough to have a friend with a big heart and a big shop who has allowed me to put my boat in his shop to finish the recore fairing process. and paint the boat during the coldest months of our season. This is going to put me on track for a spring launch. Of this year! whoo hoo! The new color is Interlux sea green.

[josh#74]

I have made significant progress over th last month. I have attached all of the wood hand rails, cabin top winch base, life line bases and am now putting on the kiwi-grip non-skid. I am less than happy with my fairing job on the deck, but my frustration with sanding fiberglass has reached it's maximum. That being said I am also proud to say that I also have the strongest deck on any ariel ever! With kevlar, carbon and many, many gallons of epoxy I am quite sure my boat is going to need some more reinforcment at the hull-deck joint to make the extra deck strength worth while. It is also the heaviest deck around too. I am pretty sure you could pick up the whole boat with the samson post if the hull to deck joint would hold up.

[josh#74]

here ya go. don't be to brutal. There are a number of factors that are forcing me to complete the boat a little faster than I probably should be.
I thought that the kiwigrip non skid would have been a little thicker and hidden a little more of my fairing job.

[Ariel 109]

Ah, your deck looks beautiful. You're in the home stretch.

Later (years from now) if you really want to go crazy and level out that deck get this book and read it first. A great paint job is mostly time spent on surface preparation.

http://www.amazon.com/Advanced-Custom-Painting-Techniques-Kosmoski/dp/1929133146/ref=pd_sim_b_6

Ben

[josh#74]

Thanks Ben,
I will pick it up. Looks much more informative than the general boat repair books I have been using as my information resource.
The picks from inside the shop are not turning out very good. I am anxious to get the boat into the natural light so that my pictures will have more detail. I made the mistake of not tipping the first couple coats of topside paint. after five coats I decided to sand again before the finall couple of coats. It should look much better. If I am not happy then after this season, when I pull it out I will have someone spray it.

[mbd]

Josh, as a much wiser owner said to me once on this forum: "Get 'er done" - then go sailing. A perfect day on the water will more than make up for any cosmetic imperfections.

BTW, I like the handrails on the forward coach roof. I've been thinking of doing the same thing too.

[mbowman]

Wow your boat looks amazing...This gives me hope.... I'm in the stage that you were in the first page of this post.... a Job well done!

[josh#74]

With the paint done it was time to bring her home where I could put her back together in my diminishing spare time. It will be in the water before june. although without a head, because I will not have time to build a holding tank. I am not to worried since I will not have time to do much more than sail between the bridges this year. Here is another pic. When the sun comes out I will use a real camera and take some good pics.


I am suprised nobody has noticed my forward portlights. I stuffed some 7" by 12" lights up front. like or dislike there is a heck of alot more light coming in even with the 50% bronze tint on the tempered glass. The only issue I had was having to mount the oustide trim ring upside down because there was not enough space to mount it the right side up.

[josh#74]

On the home stretch. Installed a tabernacle. Mast is up to check everything. looks silly with the mast up at my house,whatever. Still need to do a little shaping and drilling for halyard blocks and improve the looks a little. The interior is making progress. Not sure if it is in the right direction or not. Might be a temporary solution for a couple of issues I am facing. will post pics tonight.

[kendall]

She sure is pretty! I always preferred a dark hull, just seems to draw the eye

[carl291]

Josh, My stanchons (on 259) had fiberglass wedges under the base to make them stand up straight and not follow the angle of the deck, did your boat have these? #259 has the 3 bolt base and #245 has the 4 bolt base that you have. Just curious, nice job!

[josh#74]

Mine has the four bolt bases. The camber of my deck was not steep as the original deck due to the extra glass I used at the toe rail. I had to turn them backwards from the original design for them to not stick inward. Still unsure if I like this, but i seems it will give just a little extra room when going forward. I have thought about using teak or oak spacers under the stantion bases to adjust the camber. It might also make them less leak prone. thoughts?

[Rico]

Congratulations Josh!
Great work there. Beautiful results. I am glad to see more of these little boats out here on the west coast! I like the color as well...

The Mephisto Cat does not have stanchions (- and I do not want , or felt the need for them even offshore...) BUT there is a great Ariel in my marina and it has the stanchions / lifelines at a pronounced angle (a bit more pronounced than yours...). I think that this is an improvement because this gets them further out of the way. (-IF you are to have stanchions, that is!).

Also, the best designed stanchion bases are built-up fiberglass pads, an inch or so above the deck. -I like this because in addition to beefing up the strength at the base, they also reduce the time when you have standing water at the base making leaks less likely.

It seems you did not make your planned June splah date... What's the new date?
Happy sailing!

[josh#74]

She certainly won't be complete. But I plan on putting her in the water by the end of the week. She will stay at Mccuddy's on the columbia. Most of the heavy lifting is done. It will mostly be in there to sail and make sure I am happy with all of the systems. After a few months she will come home and I will complete the ice box and interior cabinetry that is left before next season. My goal is to take a little time next summer to explore the puget sound area with my wife and and two kids. As of right now there is no head installed and no water or heat. Not much to do to make any of them work. It just so happens that the boat will be 15min from my work. so I should be able to get quite a bit done at the marina also. I have a couple more pictures to share that are of the tabernacle and a few of the interior, need to get the camera back from my wife tonight. cheers!

[josh#74]

I was able to find the time to splash the boat yesterday! No help! Tuesday's are not the best to find volunteers. At the ramp by 11:00am. Had the mast up by 2:30pm. Very stressfull with out help. I would have done it a little different next time. Basically just not comfortable with the halyards. I was very worried that it was going to fail. Oh and we had steady winds over 15knots! With gusts high enough to really make you worry as the mast is going up! She went in the water very easy. That was the most enjoyable part. Only bad thing was I damaged the knot meter wheel when I believe it was struck by one of the hull support pads. changing that out seems like a fairly wet experience. Oh, after that the outboard would not start. Had to remove the plug because it had fouled. Not a big deal. But still one more thing to worry about as darkness was quickly approaching. A couple pics of her in here new moorage. She is he7033e7032led a little to port. (lots of tools on that side) <!-- attachments -->

[josh#74]

look at the big ol' butt on her friend!

[mbd]

... Had the mast up by 2:30pm. Very stressfull with out help. I would have done it a little different next time.

Congrats on getting her done and in! I'd love to hear about your mast raising method - good and bad. Very impressed that you did it by yourself!!

[Tony G]

Ditto that, Josh! She looks great! I can't wait until we get the chance to step the mast and get wet. Until then I have y'all.

[josh#74]

Thank you, very excited to sail her! She still needs quite a bit of work. Couple of leaks around stantions. I need to do some research on mast restoration next.

[josh#74]

Here is one from a little different perspective. none to close as she needs a bath after a long hard summer of dirt shoes and dirty air in general.

[Ariel 109]

Very pretty, have you sailed her yet? Congratulation on getting her launched!

Ben

[josh#74]

I hope sail her this weekend. She is next to what I think is a clipper marine 31'. What a difference in design philosophy. You can see why they are popular as liveaboards. I will write about the mast raising adventure soon. The ending is anti-climatic but still might be an encouragement to ask for help for all of you wanting to step your own mast with a tabernacle.

[epiphany]

look at the big ol' butt on her friend!

Ewww... {blech} No thankee, not fer me! I guess if it was the *only* boat you could manage to get, that would be OK, but (butt) otherwise, ... WHY??? :confused:

Would be interested to see your tabernacle pics!

She looks *nice*... Great job, Josh!

[josh#74]

They seem to be designed to the extreme for interior volume.
With the tiny rig and modest keels I would not think that they are good sailing boats. I am actually amazed at how huge the stern is on the clipper.
I certainly would not want to own one. I thought it was kind of neat to have one of the uglyiest boats ever next to one of the prettiest boats ever.